Savanna Distillery | Grand Arôme side

We have already mentioned Savanna rums and more generally the distillery , the only one in the world to produce agricultural rum, sugar rum and grand arôme (to which we could even add so-called light rum). Today we take the opportunity to focus on their latest grand arôme, this time aged 12 years, and bottled at a natural strength of 64.2°.

It was planned to have a common note of several Lontans in the same article, from the whites to the old one, including the HERR (another great aroma that is closer to the Jamaican profile and produced differently), but the tasting of the Lontan 12 years convinced me that it was not possible to condense everything on the same page without being very (very) long; We will therefore "make do" with the Savanna Lontan 12 years, before returning soon to the HERR (10 years) and the whites which will surely deserve a separate article.

Rhum Grand Arôme | production side

What is a Grand Arôme? It is a rum resulting from a very long fermentation (5 to 10 days and more) of a mixture of vinasse and molasses which, under the action of specific yeast, will promote the development of bacteria, and thus give the rum very developed and much more powerful aromas. A type of rum mainly used in the food industry, even in perfumery, or as a enhancer for certain lighter rums.

Savanna has been producing Grand Arôme white rum since the end of the 90s, even before the brand existed: The first productions were thus offered for sale (to the general public) in bottles under the Varangue brand, while the rest was mainly sold in bulk to the food industry. It was not until the 2000s that the first aged Grand Arôme stamped Savanna arrived (the name Lontan did not yet exist but quickly became established on the labels). It was L. Broc who launched production at Savanna with the strong idea of ​​highlighting know-how and more advanced work in terms of fermentation and distillation. In accordance with the regulations, the Reunion distillery produces Grand Arôme while respecting the rates of 800g/HAP (hectoliter of pure alcohol) of non-alcohol including 500g/HAP in esters (French-French regulations). Rums that come out at 75% (just like the pure juice/agricultural rums from Savanna, where the candy rums come out at 89%).

A distinction is thus made between the Grand Arôme offered in bulk and the Lontan, the Grand Arôme of the Savanna brand. This year, a HERR (literally High Esters Rum Réunion) was added, released on the occasion of the 60th anniversary of LMDW, and which is still different from the Lontan: although the fermentation base is the same, the HERR benefits from a different and additional bacterial work that is intended to be closer to the characteristics of a Jamaican rum, with a greater aromatic richness than the Lontan, particularly in esters (richer qualitatively and quantitatively). And while the Lontan is distilled via the traditional Savalle column from Savanna, the HERR is distilled (preferably) discontinuously via a classic stainless steel still, allowing maximum extraction (absence of column) of the fermentation aromas as well as a longer residence time of the wine at high temperatures promoting the chemical reactions at the origin of an atypical flavor.

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Savanna Lontan 12 years / 64.2°

The latest Lontan from Savanna, and the oldest (and still the only one in the world) Grand Arôme. Vintage 2004 (put in barrels on 06/05) it was bottled during the summer of 2016 in 721 copies. As usual, the rum was aged in ex-Cognac barrels.

The last encounter with a Lontan ( the 11-year-old 2003 vintage ) ended like this: "Imagining the next Lontan makes you dizzy, and above all, you want to throw yourself knowingly into the void, attached to the thread of time and history, for yet another journey towards authenticity." It was in August 2015 and the pleasure of discovery is the same, and therefore also the expectation of always better...

The dress of this Lontan is mahogany tending towards a dark bronze and orange, majestic and precious (and brilliant) from which a real necklace of pearls is formed which multiply before our eyes, before beginning their slow path of procession towards the abyss. What laziness and what shamelessness, a real funeral ballet which reveals the richness and the apparent consistency of an impetuous rum.

The nose will require the greatest attention, because with 64.2 degrees on the meter, diplomacy is required and this despite the apparent ease of the beginning. The smell that emerges is thick, resinous and excessively rich, even allowing itself the luxury of exploding in an already very balanced whole and sticking your sinuses: resin that would even come close to a slightly fruity glue, in which prunes and grapes would have been left to macerate (with this vinous aspect that catches), in addition to squares of dark chocolate and tanned leather. It is heavy and very round and much more "gourmet" than the 11 year old which, when put face to face, lets out more briny and acidic notes (olive, spent citrus). The extra year brings more of everything and the face to face would even make the little brother seem like a wimp (question of maturity). The more time passes, the more the rum seems to round out and become more and more pleasant, buttery and giving pride of place to fruits and warm spices (cinnamon), slightly caramelized and letting escape small acidic red fruits; the zest of a yellow lemon brings a brown of freshness and even the leather seems to melt into rubber then into a veil of tobacco, and again this chocolate… A rum that evolves and with which one does not get bored, intoxicating and penetrating.

In the mouth we expect another explosion, much more violent given the titration; and that is exactly what happens but without this expected violence, in a pronounced smoothness with this resinous side which polarizes all the aromas, putting on the front of the stage these notes of leather, tobacco, burnt oak but all in subtlety, without hitch or excess (apart from the power), mixed with candied and sweet fruits. The alcohol (very high let us remember) is well integrated for 64° but it still has its effect, and the rum engulfs your entire mouth as rarely, with this vinous side which attaches but which does not bite, brine, acidity (olive, citrus) and darker spices which go crescendo (gray pepper, chili) and which participate in the mastery. Of course, this is a Lontan and you will need to be prepared, and those who do not know the great old aroma of Savanna will be shaken in more than one way, aromatic power and high alcohol content oblige. At this point, you say to yourself that a dash of water would be useful, but that it is difficult to sacrifice the few remaining centilitres...

However, a dash of water brings more citrus, exotic opulence (pineapple) and therefore ease to the rum; and it could probably be diluted to 40° and it would still be very expressive, that's saying something. Citrus, exoticism, light caramel, fruit and freshness on the nose. On the palate, and still with water, the rum is wonderfully well balanced (and not at all negatively impacted), still concentrated and unctuous, vinous, recalling more or less the mouth without dilution but with a disconcerting ease that will please most people. The addition of water is therefore advised, and even recommended to those who taste it.

The finish is long and persistent on smoky and iodized notes of the most beautiful effect, and even exotic in a perfect continuity and always in an exemplary concentration and a balance that commands respect. Do not count on a glass of water to shorten the experience, it will go well beyond despite the repetition.

We are still a notch above the 11 year old. The color is wonderful, the nose much more mature and accessible even, just like the mouth; it is not so much that the Lontan 11 year old or its younger brothers are less good, but the 12 year old is even more concentrated and mature, more accomplished, less on the briny and acidic notes, and more on the candied and the gourmandise, the roundness. This rum is certainly one of the full proof rums that have nothing to envy to old Demerara or Jamaicans aged in the tropics, with an aromatic power without equal, great aroma obliges. Note: 90

To help you (and me) find your way around, regarding the notes:

90 and + : exceptional and unique rum, it is the best of the best
between 85 and 89 : highly recommended rum, with that little something that makes the difference
between 80 and 84 : recommendable rum
75-79 POINTS : above average
70-74 POINTS : in the low average
less than 70 : not very good

Review courtesy of DuRhum.com.

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