Barbancourt…Always

Who doesn't know Barbancourt? Haiti's emblematic rum, distributed all over the world for over a century and a half. It has survived time and history, not without pitfalls: the embargo in the early 90s, the devastating earthquake of 2010, but also the various changes of hands and family quarrels, have never damaged its image.

Since 1862 and up to today, the star rum still shines, albeit with a lesser intensity, and especially since the beginning of the 90s: the distillery then abandoned its traditional still, for a more modern continuous column system (double column), more productive, but less qualitative. Gone is the double distillation system, whose main interest was to give a more aromatic and round rum; The distillate will come out, since this date, at more than 90%, for a production which today exceeds 3 million bottles per year. The only link which still lasts with the Charente tradition, Barbancourt continues to use barrels made of Limousin oak.

A rum in tune with the times and progress; and the opportunity, if one were needed, to go back in time, the time of a tasting of their Special Reserve.

(note: since its beginnings, and until today, Barbancourt has remained faithful to its range of rums: first the 3 stars (aged 4 years) and its 5 stars Réserve Spéciale, aged 8 years. And in the mid-1960s, the Réserve du Domaine , aged 15 years and traditionally reserved for the family, enriched the brand's catalog.)

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Barbancourt Special Reserve 5* (circa 70)

Here is a bottling that dates back to the 70s, aged 8 years (the 5 stars on the label) and 43°. Even the degree has never changed throughout history…

Golden, bright and clear color . An oily dress and thick legs are formed.

On the nose, we have a light and fine rum, like all the Barbancourts that followed in fact: without luxuriance, but with a mastery that is always appreciated, on light notes of oak, banana/pineapple, and lots of vanilla. With the impression of a still raw vanilla cake batter, to which we would have added pieces of lightly burnt oak. The tannins are classy, ​​we also find citrus zest (orange/lemon), and a little something metallic, coppery.

The palate is soft and oily, even creamy (buttery), all in softness: ripe and sweet fruits (banana), light oak, mixed with honey and vanilla. It is warm and soft in the mouth, very pleasant. Lemon, gray pepper (and cinnamon), anise, with a crème brûlée effect (pastry). The finish is moderately long but persistent, dry, spicy (peppery) and biting, but always with this vanilla, this oak (really light) and caramel which make the tasting homogeneous, smooth, and above all well balanced.

A consistent rum from start to finish, sophisticated some would say, all finesse and lightness, pleasant and melted. The kind of rum we come back to, not because it is fantastic, because it is rather very simple, but it has the merit of having the taste of rum, which tends to be lost in recent years. Note: 82

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Special Reserve 5* (circa 40/50)

A change of era with this bottle, which can be dated precisely thanks to its fairly narrow screw cap, which was used until the end of the 1950s. These bottles alone represent a whole section of history: pure cane juice was then fermented for 3 days, using indigenous yeasts, before being distilled in a Charentais-type pot still for the famous double distillation. Does a change of era rhyme with a change of taste?

Mahogany color , orange highlights for a bright and classy dress, accompanied by many tears, fine and nonchalant. There is already a real difference with other Special Reserves, more recent.

On the nose , we are also very far from the Barbancourt of today with its light aromas, and we travel very far in time. The rum is of an unsuspected richness, on an intoxicating rancio, notes of tobacco, coffee; and a fresh vegetable reminiscent of cauliflower, in a kind of broth, where macerated fruits and nuts (especially walnuts) passionately come together. A very pleasant and evolving nose, where grilled and caramelized dried fruits appear, but also exquisite touches of curry, and always this coffee, but this time in the form of freshly ground beans. It tickles your nose, with great accuracy, the kind that commands respect and makes you regret the past. With even more rest, and patience (and what a pleasure it is here), there are many fruits, orchard, peach and apricot, but repressed by serious black and empyreumatic notes.

The mouth is thick and caresses your palate from the first drops, balsamic, on very dark molasses, licorice candy and coffee, walnut, and always in a thick whole, an aromatic broth, warm and deliciously thick in the mouth. A sort of maceration of black and grilled notes, in a very beautiful balance, with dried fruits, and enhanced by the right and perfect dose of spices (always this curry, and nutmeg). It is not very complex, but it is so good, and it is even more appreciable when you compare it to what is done today, what a waste... Not that Barbancourt is bad today, oh no, but it has nothing to do with it, it is a fact.

The finish is moderately long and still as warm, and especially persistent. We find liquorice, coffee, dried fruits and nuts in a slow and always very pleasant death; each aroma delivering the right dose, well measured.

Excellent Barbancourt like they don't make anymore, and what a shame! If you come across a bottle, don't let it slip away... Rating: 89

To help you (and me) find your way around, regarding the notes:

90 and + : exceptional and unique rum, it is the best of the best
between 85 and 89 : highly recommended rum, with that little something that makes the difference
between 80 and 84 : recommendable rum
75-79 POINTS : above average
70-74 POINTS : in the low average
less than 70 : not very good

Review courtesy of DuRhum.com.

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