"Everyone knows what a martini is. But if you ask them what they think a martini is, you'll never get the same answer."
Dario Knox, seen at The Backdrop.
Dario Knox, the founder of the Singapore Martini Club, who also founded speakeasy bar The Backdrop, mentions this as we were savouring over taster portions of martinis mid-tasting. It couldn't have came at a better time - just seconds ago, I was flipping through the cocktail menu, pondering - why would a bar need 50 variants of the same drink? It was there and then that it made perfect sense: appletinis, pornstar martinis, classic martinis, vodka-tinis... the list goes on and on! And my answer to that question - what is a martini, or, what is a martini to me?
The Singapore Martini Club recently opened, nestled right beside the taxi stand of Orchard Rendezvous Hotel. The bar was created by the team behind the speakeasy The Backdrop at Voco Orchard, famous for its cabaret club interior that's reminiscent of early 20th century glamour. The bar, as the name suggests, features the martini - where the (largely agreed upon) classic recipe calls for five parts gin, one part dry vermouth, and finished with a twist of lemon. Except, the bar as an over 50 different martini menu!
The interior transports you to a luxury train carriage of a bygone era - thick curtains, velvet cabin armchairs, coat and hat hangers. The seating is arranged in a L-shape, flanking the main bar. I was showed to my seat, and as an appetizer, was served a warm concoction of olive brine.
The bar promises a voyage, a journey, across the globe through its martinis. This is reflected in the menu, where each "chapter" is named after stations, its martinis within grouped by flavour profile. A keen observer would note that the martinis are all named after a city or location!
Our first martini is the Italian Capresce Martini, of the Savoury Martinis section (1st Stop). This martini captures the spirit of the classic dish, made with tequila, tomato spirit, basil, oregano and lemon.
Herbaceous on the nose: basil forward, toned with aromas of green zesty lime and fresh herbs. Sweet, salty, savoury, with a briny, umami mouthfeel. Whilst slightly sweet for my liking, but I do appreciate that almost pickled onion, relish-forward sweet-salty profile of the martini. And all the herbs of oregano and basil! It's fairly light as martinis go as well, and I'll think this would be great paired with cold, savoury starters or bites.
The second martini takes us to Japan - the Karuizawa Martini of the Zesty Martinis (Main Station) is made with vodka, green apple, shisho, celery and lime. Green apple candy and chewing gum hits the nose first, becoming more malic and tart. The martini itself isn't as sweet and candy forward as the nose would suggest - the shisho really stands out, followed by the more anisey flavours of the celery. This martini, whilst again a bit sweet for my liking, has a slightly more spicy and tart kick than the former, with the sweetness fading away a bit faster and leaving the more herbaceous flavours.
We then head over to the Tokyo Spice Martini, featured in the Savoury Martinis section, features the classic Japanese shichimi (seven spices) spicy seasoning, built upon tequila and lemon. Freshly sliced jalapeños on the nose, vegetal and slightly peppery. The spice is very forward on this one (which I appreciate!) - that togarashi spice is roasty, smoky, slightly herbaceous comes through, followed by a steady burn. The spice doesn't linger too long, leaving behind fruitier, citrusy flavours in its wake, and when paired with bar bites, reveal more savoury flavours. I'll say thread careful for those adverse to spice, but for the chili heads, this is one I'll definitely recommend!
The Portofino, part of the Zesty Martini section, is made with gin, grapefruit, rosemary, maraschino and lemon. This martini was gentle, with lots of fresh grapefruit on the nose. The palate is juicy, definitely showcasing more of that grapefruit in its tartness. It's fresh, with a mild bitter tang on the palate. I like the balance this martini has, where whilst sweet on the palate, stays refreshing and doesn't get cloying. For the folks who like their palomas, this is a great pick!
The second last martini, the Jalisco of the Herbal Martinis (4th stop), is made with Codigo Tequila, Coriander, jalapeno, lemon balm, pineapple and lime. What immediately struck me for this martini was that hit of crushed coriander stalks on the nose! There's a light, spicy note on the aroma, like sliced green chilli pepper, wafting above that coriander. The flavours of the martini is smoky, herbacous, with a slight salty and tart kick on the palate. The spice here is very manageable, with a mild heat that nibbles at the back palate, with more green pineapple flavours taking the lead. It feels like a green salsa or a tomatilllo salad in a drink, and is my favourite thus far.
Now, enter the Sub Zero Martini! This time, Danio Knox demonstrates the ritual that goes into making this special martini - carefully assembled to give the coldest, smoothest martini the bar has to offer. The ritual goes as such:
- Mix the components of the martini (a secret blend of gin, dry vermouth and distilled water) into a mixing glass first. Chill as cold as possible.
- Spray vermouth onto and rinse a martini glass.
- Prepare a floral ice sphere.
- Pour the martini over the ice sphere - this imbues the cocktail with a subtle floral flavour as it dilutes.
- Check for temperature - it should read -5 degree Celsius.
- Serve.
And we were in for a treat - the serving of beyond ice-cold of martini was accompanied with a selection of olives and pickles - one that the team spared no effort in searching and bringing in from far flung corners of the world.
The Sub Zero Martini was forward with its gin profile - a no frills, full on juniper nose from the martini. The martini is classic as it gets - dry, junipery, with lots of that olive brine creeping through, giving a nutty, oily, deep vegetal flavour. The martini lasts deep on the palate, that slight dry vermouth showing off its nutty, herb flavours longer on the palate.
And to answer what would a martini to me refers to, it would be this. Dirty, dry, boozy, one that is unashamed in its gin character (gin is always the right answer when it comes to a gin - I'm sorry vodka!) and especially its spice and juniper. And oh that brine is a must have for me!
The Sub Zero Martini, served in a tasting portion alongside a really big and tasty olive.
So, hands down, the Sub Zero Martini was my favourite martini of the night. It scratches all I ask of a dirty martini and more - the olive brine is fantastic, the chill of the cocktail that reveals more herbs and spice as it warms. And the cherry on top was those spicy, vinegary pickles and olives served alongside the martini.
Which, needless to say, my head canon of a martini would chances are be different to yours. In this tasting, we've barely scratched the many different drinks the world of martini to offer, and I am confident in the Singapore Martini Club's extensive menu, there'll be one martini that's to your liking.
@vernoncelli
