Editor’s note: People say many things about baijiu, and we think it's the world’s most misunderstood spirit. But if you know the basics, you’ll find good baijius that are layered, complex and as enjoyable as whiskies, rums and tequilas. For those starting out, read our baijiu primer to learn the 4 main types of baijiu, and why the stuff is getting so popular.

In 1408, in the city of Chengdu, a certain Master Distiller Wang created a recipe for making pure baijiu. Utilising pristine water from a well (Shui Jing, or 水井 in Chinese), he perfected the art of brewing the highest grade of spirits, establishing a distillery called Shui Jing Fang. Fast forward to 1998, excavators uncovered the original distillery site and found it as marking it as the oldest and most well-preserved distillery in existence. The Shui Jing Fang Distillery was thus officially certified by China's National Cultural Relics Bureau as "China's First Baijiu Distillery," a testament to its historical significance being on par with the renowned Terracotta Army.

Seeing opportunity in the Chinese spirits market and quality in Shui Jing Fang's offerings, in 2012, the UK spirits giant Diageo acquired de facto control of Shui Jing Fang in a complex multi-stage deal where it acquired 53% of Quanxing Co which was the largest shareholder of the true target company, albeit only owning 39.7 percent of Sichuan Shui Jing Fang Distillery Co. Nonetheless, this partial acquisition made it the first foreign-owned baijiu business.

Shui Jing Fang's baijiu are classified as Rich Aroma (农香) baijiu, generally known for their rich and potent fragrance. Its flavour profile is often described as a cross between two other well-known baijiu brands: Luzhou Laojiao and Wuliangye.

In this review, I'm sampling Shui Jing Fang ‘Wellbay’ Baijiu (水井坊井台) which is one of the premium product lines from Shui Jing Fang Distillery. This is a step-up from the entry-level offerings such as Shui Jing Fang ‘Zhen Nian Number 8’ (水井坊臻酿八号) and Shui Jing Fang ‘Red Fortune’ (水井坊鸿运).

While the various offerings come in very similar ABVs and practically look the same in a glass (i.e. colourless) I understand the Wellbay to have undergone a more significant period of fermentation and maturation to achieve a fuller flavour profile, which would explain its premium positioning and higher price.

Shui Jing Fang ‘Wellbay’ Baijiu (水井坊井台), 52% ABV – Review

Nose: Fresh, full and expressive, with beautiful contrasting layers revealing themselves. Floral notes interweave with the enticing fragrance of white-flesh peaches, the refreshing tang of sour plums, and fresh rambutans. A subtle note of hay and earth grounds these vibrant aromas adding decent complexity to the bouquet.

Palate: Sweet, rich, layered.

What I like is that the layers unfold seamlessly, one before another. First with the fresh and bright flavours of ripe pear, melon and sweet-tart lychees. These sweet fruit notes perfectly integrated with a clean earthy minerality that's reminiscent of the fresh scent of earthenware pottery clay. Sweetness gracefully departs and as the palate unfolds, complemented by a subtle “cellar fragrance” ("窖香" (jiào xiāng)) that is somewhat mushroomy and earthy, a common signature of baijiu that had been fermented for a longer period. A very unique, sophisticated contrast that gives the palate an impressive and complex character.

The texture is medium-bodied and leaves the tongue feeling slightly drying on the palate – an appealing contrast to the bright sweet and fruity flavours.

Finish: Long, fresh and sweet. The fading notes of lychees resonate with the sour dryness of starfruits, a nice interplay that gently fades, prompting the next sip.

My Thoughts

Emoji Rating: 💥☯️

This is a great example of the complexities and depth that a Rich Aroma baijiu can achieve.

It’s a well-integrated blend of intense fresh sweetness, subtle bitterness, and a slight touch of dryness. The result is an intense sweetness that does not overwhelm, being balanced out by contrasting earthiness and minerality.

@CharsiuCharlie