When it comes to wines, the largest exporters that often come to mind are countries like France and Italy, and possibly even the “new world” wine-producing countries like the United States and Australia. However, once upon a time in ancient human history, Greece was one of, if not the largest exporter of wines to the international market, with wine playing such an integral role to the societies and culture of the Greek island states that it even has its own god – Dionysius – dedicated to the spirit of wine-drinking. 

What’s happened to the Greek wine since then? Well, it certainly hasn’t been lost to time, with an incredibly rich, colourful and diverse universe of terroirs, climates, grape varietals, and cultural influences and practices that are a dream for any wine lover to explore.

Greek Wine Across the Thousands of Years

A Tradition With its Roots in Antiquity

Greece has an incredibly long and rich history of winemaking dating back to as far as 4,000 – 3,000 BCE, placing it among the world’s oldest wine-producing regions. Wine is very much a feature of its own across Greek history and mythology, with its earliest traceable roots found in the 4^th to 3^rd millennia BCE Minoan civilization, where the earliest allusions to Dionysius – the god of wine – was found along with records of wine agriculture and wine drinking cups. The cultural, economic and religious role of wine was undoubtedly significant to the ancient Greek civilization from the Minoans, Mycenaeans and eventually to the Greek city-states. Luckily for us modern day folk, we have records from the Greek poets Hesiod and Homer from around the 9^th – 8^th century BCE giving us insight into the wine production methods of their time.

Frescoes depicting wine being carried in amphorae from the Minoan civilization

Wine making became widespread in Greece around the time of the Bronze Age, undergoing centuries of fine-tuning. According to records from Homer, grape harvesting was often accompanied by live music. Hesiod and Homer both recount the method of drying out freshly harvested grapes on straw mats to become raisins before they were pressed for their juice. Other practices included harvesting unripe grapes early to produce more acidic wines and even boiling grape juice to make their wines sweeter. After the grapes are pressed, the grape juice is then fermented in pithoi – large containers used for bulk storage, much like the barrels and casks of our time. There were three main varieties of wine in Ancient Greece, which are categories most of us are already familiar with today – dry, medium, and sweet wines – which the ancient Greeks often flavoured by adding an assortment of ingredients that could send heads rolling today, such as herbs, spices, perfume, sea water and brine. The wine-filled pithoi were stored in rooms that were controlled to maintain a temperature of around 15 degrees Celsius, and then subsequently poured into smaller amphoras for export.

Apostolos Thymiopoulos, a rising star of Greek winemaking.

Winemaking in Modern Greece

Despite being steeped in thousands of years of history and mythology, Greek wines just hadn’t seemed to have made their way to the wine world’s honour roll in the recent centuries, quite unlike how French wines had taken Bordeaux wines had taken the world by storm in distinguished Bordeaux fashion.

After centuries of war, political upheaval, a Phylloxera outbreak that had spread from France down to Greece, the Greek wine scene was in a quite the dismal state by the time of the 20^th century, after World War II and the Greek civil war. As Greece went on its path towards greater urbanization, labour shifted away from agricultural producers – including vineyards and winemakers. With a dearth of smaller scale craft winemakers in Greece, wine production in the country eventually came to be dominated by large commercial producers with a focus on high volumes of bottles over smaller quality batches. The major wine-producing companies that came to dominate the landscape in the post-war decades in the 1950s and 1960s did not have much intention to compete with established French wines. This could explain a noticeable lack of Greek wines that have truly achieved international acclaim – something that is somewhat surprising from a region with millennia of rich winemaking history.

The gradual urbanization of Greece through the decades.

The 1960s to 1970s in Greece saw the gradual rise in popularity of retsina wine (a style of resinated wine made from a method dating back to 1^st century Roman Empire), and this style of wine – unique and popular as it is –eventually hijacked the international public’s consciousness about what Greek wines were all about. This era also saw the gradual adoption of modern winemaking methods, introduction of foreign grape varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, as well as the implementation of an appellation regime mirroring those in France and other winemaking European countries.

Our recent modern times have seen quite the renaissance from the Greece’s winemakers, who have been making waves in oenological innovation and taking advantage of the country’s the large vinicultural variety and range of natural terroirs that make for some seriously good wine.

Geography, Key Regions, Terroir, Climate

The wine regions of Greece offer a fascinating diversity of terroirs, climates, and culture spread across the Greek mainland and its surrounding islands. The rich variety from Greece’s different regions produces a colourful depth of various expressions of the country’s many faces, offering an exciting and impressive oenological journey for anyone who loves wines. With that said, let’s dive into each of Greece’s major winemaking regions!

Makedonia

With approximately 13,000 hectares of vineyard area, the Makedonia region is home to various winemaking zones, most prominent of which is Naoussa – one of the hotspots for Xynómavro grape production. The Naoussa appellation was established in 1971, which was followed by a growth in the number of producers arising from this area. The official Naoussa appellation requires that wine be produced from native Xynómavro grapes – one of two of the country’s pre-eminent grape varieties, apart from Agiorgitiko.

Kir-Yianni in Makedonia.

Apart from the domestic Xynómavro grape, foreign grape varieties such as Syrah and Merlot have also been planted throughout the region.

Naoussa (and Makedonia, by extension) has a unique microclimate that is distinct from most of Mediterranean Greece, with its cooler climate and even colder winters that could be described as more continental than the rest of the country. The dry and less fertile soils of the region give rise to stronger vines producing quality grapes with robust concentration.

Thanasis Papaioannou in Peloponnese.

Peloponnese

The Peloponnese region is a significantly large wine-producing zone in Greece, with a staggering 60,000 hectares of viticulture area. The Peloponessos consists of several winemaking areas such as Neméa, Argolida, Mantinía, Eleia, and Achaia. The most prominent among the Peloponnesian wine producing regions is Neméa in the northeast of the Peloponnese, where Greece’s largest Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) appellation is and is considered by many to be the jewel of Greece’s wine industry. Wine has been produced in this area for thousands of years since the 5^th century BCE, cementing its place in ancient Greek history and mythology – the legend of Hercules slaying the Neméan lion was said to have taken place in this region. Today, Neméan wines still bear their association to this mythological Greek hero.

Hercules' first take - taking down the Nemean lion.

The mountainous terrain of with varying elevations of between 450 to 650 metres above sea level provide ideal conditions for its vineyards, which are dominated by the native Agiorgitiko grape varietal, which is a key part of the pre-requisites for the official Neméan wine appellation. Neméa’s terroir includes a diversity of flat land surrounding the village, hillier lands in the west and higher elevations in the mountainous regions towards the north. This results in a wide variety of wine styles from Neméa, ranging from the high-altitude region’s quality grapes to sweet grapes from the lower-level alluvial soils.

Further towards the eastern Peloponnese Peninsula is Mantineia, which has its own Mantineia PDO appellation – such designated wines are required to be made of a minimum of 85 percent Moschofilero grapes. The Moschofilero grape varietal dominates this area, although foreign grape varietals such as the French Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon as well as the German Gerwurtztraminer are present here as producers experiment with a wider range at hand. The vineyards of Mantineia sit at around 700 metres of elevation above sea level – this high-altitude region forms one of the coldest vineyards in Greece, resulting in grapes that are slower to ripe and higher in acidity when harvested. The soils of Mantineia range from sandy to more clay dominant. 

Vineyards in Central Greece

Central Greece

Extreme hot climate, with commercial winemaking largely focus on the large coastal island Evia and Attika, the area around Athens. Ocean breezes in the immediate coast help to temper the high temperatures, which is a feature prominently influential in the grapes produced from this area. Central Greece is the traditional stronghold of retsina, with Saviatnó grapes making majority of the production in Attika and Evia.

Thessalia

With a viticultural area of around 8,700 hecatares, the Thessalia region is dominated by flat plains and is home to the historic Mount Olympos in the north. A substantial amount of Thessalia’s wine production takes place in lower Olympos, where the Rapsani appellation district is. The vineyards at this appellation are on high elevations between 400 to 700 metres above sea level. Rapsani wines are usually made from a blend of Xynomavro, Krassato, and Stavroto grapes.

The Aegean Islands

The largest of the Aegean Islands is Crete, home to one of the oldest known human civilizations – the Minoans – dating as far back to 2,000 BCE. One of the important things to know about the modern winemaking history of Crete is that region’s vineyards had been recently devasted by a phylloxera outbreak in 1977. This outbreak had wiped out a winemaking practice that used to be commonplace for households, and vineyards had to be replanted, resulting in many native grape varieties being replaced by international European types such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Syrah. This sparked somewhat of an oenological renaissance in Crete as wine producers sought to gradually rebuild the vineyards in the region, and domestic Cretan grape varietals were slowly re-introduced as Cretan PDO appellations were also being established.

Another significant region among the Aegean Islands is Santorini, one of Greece’s most famous and beautiful scenic islands. The island also has its own unique viticultural environment, in part due to an ancient volcanic eruption around 1640 to 1620 BCE, which caused a large part of the island to be submerged under water. Winemaking in Santorini came to prominence during the Middle Ages with influence from the Venetians. Santorini has a Mediterranean climate with its proximity to the Aegean Sea and exposure too high temperatures and humidity. Soils in this region are porous and filled with volcanic and rock, making them resistant to the phylloxera pest, which is unable to survive in such soils. Santorini’s most well-known grape varieties are the native Assyrtiko, Athiri and Aidani grapes. Assyrtiko is the island’s preeminent grape – a high acidity grape that is required to form the majority of classified Santorini wines, and in particular, the island’s flagship Vinsanto (a little more on that later).

Of course, apart from the islands of Crete and Santorini, one mustn’t forget the rest of the smaller wine producing regions of the Aegean Islands, which include the islands of Samos, Limnos, Mykonos, Paros, and Rhodes!

Don’t Forget the Smaller Winemaking Regions – The Ionian Islands, Thrace, and Epirus

Ionian Islands contain approximately 8,700 hectares of viticulture area, and include the islands of Kefalonia, Kerkyraz, Lefkada and Zakynthos. The Ionian Islands are located in the western part Greece, which is closer both proximally and culturally to Italy following the area’s Venetian occupation from the 14^th to 18^th century – as aspect that is reflected in the wines from this region as well.

The other smaller winemaking areas in Greece include the regions of Thrace (also known as Thraki) and Epirus, which hosts a range of winemaking traditions and vineyards that primarily contribute to the regions’ local production.  

Greece's Indigenous Grape Varietals 

Greece has made its name internationally for winemaking, largely owing to its two major red grape varietals – Agiorgitko and Xynomavro. While these two grape varietals are a large part of what the reputation of Greek wine hinges on, they are by no means the only grape varieties from the country worth paying attention to. Greece is estimated to have around an excess of 350 native grape varietals, and with constant innovation and experimentation by viticulturists, the list could go on!

Agiorgitiko Grapes

Agiorgitiko (which can be translated to mean “St. George’s grape’) is red cultivar and one of the most widely planted and commercially significant local Greek grape varietals. The grape also bears an association to the Greek mythological hero Hercules, often nicknamed the “Blood of Hercules” after the legend that Hercules had consumed local Nemean wine made from Agiorgitiko grape before slaying the lion.

A scene of Hercules being offered Nemean wine before slaying the lion.

Agiorgitiko grapes tend to have a moderate to low acidity, moderate to high in tannins, and can be used to produce a wide variety of wine styles and flavours that can blend well with other varietals, such as Cabernet Sauvignon. The versatility of this grape is know to produce wine that typically has fruity aromas and flavours that can range from medium cherry to dark berry, while Agiorgitiko grapes of high quality and with heavier tannins having the potential to develop further with more ageing.

Xynómavro Grapes

The other widely commercialized native Greek red grape variety is Xynómavro, which is predominantly grown in high-elevation mountainous regions such as in Makedonia. The Xynómavro grape is an extremely versatile varietal, and is often used in various red, white, or rosé wine styles in a range of flavour profiles.

Xynómavro grapes tend to be high in acidity with strong tannins, reminiscent of Nebbiolo grapes from Piedmont that are typically used in Barolo production. The robust structure of the Xynómavro grape helps to produce complex wines that are primed to develop further depth through time. Red Xynómavro-based wines typically have flavours with a mild to moderate intensity, with notes of red and black fruits, violets, tobacco and mushrooms. Its high acidity and robust tannins also give it a depth that lingers on the aftertaste, pairing well with foods with richness, such as red meats.

Assyrtiko Grapes

Among the local white grape varieties in Greece, the Assyrtiko grape may well be the most well-known and is widely regarded as the best white wine grape in the country. This white grape varietal is primarily cultivated in the volcanic soils of Santorini, of which the terroir and climate have a significant impact on the profile of this cultivar.

Assyrtiko grapes are often distinguished by their high ripeness and acidity. The Assyrtiko grape is the pre-requisite dominant varietal for Santorini’s sweet Vinsanto wine appellation. The quality and flavour profile of Assyrtiko has been found by sommeliers globally to potentially rival other foreign European wine types, such as the German or Alsace Riesling, Chardonnay, and particularly Chablis. Assyrtiko wines are typically light-bodied and dry, often taking on citrusy notes of lime and passionfruit with strong acidity and salinity.

Moschofilero Grapes

Greece’s Moschofilero grapes are pink-skinned and are known for being flavourful and fragrant, producing wines with a touch of spice and supply acidity. These grapes are predominantly grown in the Mantineia region of the Peloponnese. Moschofilero grapes are the native varietal required to form the dominant base of wines under the Mantineia PDO wine appellation, which requires that wines be made from a minimum of 85 percent Moschofilero grapes.

This grape varietal typically is usually medium- to light-bodied with moderate to high acidity, and is known to be aromatic, giving of notes of spice, perfume, and a floral bouquet. 

Savatianó Grapes

The Savatianó grape is a white grape varietal, and is the primary cultivar used in the production of Retsina wines. This grape is most widely cultivated around central Greece, especially around the Attica region in Athens. This grape is particularly hardy against the elements and disease, contributing to its longevity in the Greece’s viticultural history as one of the most ancient varietals in the country.

Savatianó grapes

The Savatianó grape is characterized by its low acidity, while more character is displayed when it is resinated. While farming the grape at high yields at the expense of the quality has marred the reputation of Savatianó , low yield farming and modern vinification methods have helped to produce high-quality Savatianó grapes that can take on robust herbaceous, citrusy, and white floral flavours. This grape variety is particularly effective for blending with other varietals, such as Assyrtiko and Rhoditis.

Greek Wine Styles

The four most popular Greek wine blends are led by the key varietals – Agiorgitiko, Xynomavro, Assyrtiko and Moschofilero, which dominate their respective cuvées. Greece is also home to several wine styles that are unique to the region, such as the well-known Retsina wine, Thessalia’s Rapsani wine, and Santorini’s traditional Vinsanto.

A glass of Retsina.

Retsina

Possibly one of the most famous (and perhaps also infamous) wine styles from Greece, Retsina comes from a winemaking tradition that is thousands of years old. The name Retsina often calls to mind a dramatic imagery of the ancient Greek amphora, which was the primary vessel used to store and transport wine in the era before glass bottles were invented. The amphorae would have been sealed with Aleppo pine resin to keep the oxygen out and prevent the wines from spoiling, and the resin also imparted an aroma to the wines. Even as this traditional ancient storage method using amphorae and resin eventually phased out with time, the resin-infused flavours of these wines were so popular that people sought to continue to replicate its unique profile.

While the Retsina of today are not stored in amphorae and sealed with pine resin, modern Retsina production methods achieve that traditional ancient flavour by introducing pieces of Aleppo pine resin into the must as it ferments, integrating its flavours into the mix. Retsina is typically made from Saviatnó – which is the traditional retsina grape the predominates the vineyards of Central Greece – as well as Assyrtiko and Rhoditis that are often blended. Retsina wines often have a distinctive pine resin flavour profile – the dominant pine flavour is accompanied by herbaceous and citrusy notes, as well as a slight saltiness and bitterness on the finish.

For a long time, the Retsina style of wine was not regarded seriously by many and was often thought of as a rather poor-quality wine, with some critics even going as far as to remark that Retsina has sorely marred the reputation of Greek wines. Of course, this could all simply be a matter of a clash of preferences and philosophies on wine, as the ancient practice of including additives in the mix is extremely frowned upon in today’s modern wine drinking culture. Nonetheless, the unique history, culture, and flavour profile of Retsina are enough reason to give this wine a worthy shot. After all, there’s a reason why this style has endured after thousands of years!

A glass of Vinsanto dessert wine.

Vinsanto

Vinsanto (not to be confused with its Italian namesake, Vin Santo) is part of Santorini’s millennia-old winemaking tradition and is among Greece’s most renown dessert white wines. For wine to be labelled Vinsanto in Santorini, it must be made from at least 51 percent of Santorini’s flagship Assyrtiko grapes and is often found to be blended with Aidani and Athiri grapes. The grapes are late harvested and sun dried for around two weeks, concentrating their flavours and sugars as they become raisin-like before fermentation and ageing in oak barrels that help the wine take on deeper flavours. Vinsanto wines can be visually distinguished by their golden-orange colours, and often have an aroma of dried fruits, apricots, and sweet spice.

The vineyards of Estate Argyros, a winemaker that makes Vinsanto in Santorini.

Rapsani

Hailing from the mythological home of the gods at Mount Olympus, Rapsani wine – which comes from the region bearing the same name – is Thessalia’s foremost red wine made from a blend of three native Greek grape varietals – Xynomavro, Stavroto and Krassato. Like many other viticultural parts of Greece, Rapsani’s viticulture has a history dating back to ancient times and the Byzantine era. The vineyards of Rapsani dramatically sit on the slopes of Mount Olympus, and its grapes benefit from the influences of both the Mediterranean and mountainous climate, slowing the grapes’ ripening process and helping them retain their acidity.

Rapsani wines are known to have a good structure and balance, with flavours of red berries and slight earthy notes. While younger Rapsani wines tend to be fresher and more fruit-forward in flavour, Rapsani wines also have good ageing potential given their substantial tannins – aged Rapsani wines could develop deeper and more complex aromas and flavours, such as leather, dried fruit, and spices.

The Greek Winemakers to Get Introduced to Each Region

Over the last few decades of political upheaval, as well as structural and economic changes in Greece, the country’s winemakers have had somewhat of a renaissance as many strive to experiment and innovate with producing high-quality local wines, leveraging both international and indigenous varietals while preserving the heritage and capturing the essence of their respecting regions. As you make your oenological journey throughout Greece’s many regions, here are some of the country’s most renowned winemakers to get acquainted with!

MAKEDONIA

Kechris Winery: Based in Thessaloniki within the Makedonia region, the Kechris winery pays particular attention to it cultural and historical roots since its establishment in 1939. The Kechris estate is well-known for their traditional Retsina style wines aptly named The Tear of the Pine, an Assyrtiko-based wine infused with the flavour of pine resin. If you were to give Retsina a try, perhaps consider letting The Tear of the Pine be your introduction!

Discover the range of wine from Kechris Winery: https://www.kechris.gr/en/3-products 

Kir Yianni Winery: This estate is based in Naoussa in Makedonia, and is one of the region’s leading wine producers, especially of the Xynómavro variety.

Explore Kir Yianni’s wines: https://kiryianni.gr/wines/

Thymiopoulos Winery: The Thymiopoulos estate is based in Naoussa in Makedonia, and produces a range of expressions with a particular focus on Xynómavro grapes.

Explore the wines of Thymiopoulos: https://www.thymiopoulosvineyards.gr/wines 

Alpha Estate: Alpha Estate is one of the most renowned wineries in Greece, based in Amyndeon, which is located within the Makedonia region. The estate’s foremost grape is Xynómavro.

Explore the wines of Alpha Estate: https://alpha-estate.com/product/  

CRETE

Domaine Economou: Located in the town of Sitia in Eastern Crete, Domaine Economou was founded by one of Greece’s most distinguished winemakers and the estate’s namesake, Yiannis Economou. The vines of Domaine Economou are a mix of international vines, as well as very old and carefully cultivated native vines, where indigenous varietals such as Assyrtiko and Liatiko are harvested at low yields to produce high-quality wines.

PELOPPONESE

Papaioannou Estate: Founded by Neméan winemaking icon Thanassis Papaioannou, the Papaioannou Estate is one of the leading winemakers in Greece’s Nemean region, and produces wines made from native grape varietals such as Agiorgitiko, Assyrtiko, and Rhoditis.

Explore Papaiouannou wines here: https://www.papaioannouwines.gr/index.php/en/labels  

Palivou Estate: Palivou Estate prizes its links to its Nemean heritage, with the winery’s close proximity to the Nemean archaeological site adding to the drama. The estate’s vineyards are planted with a range of international and local grape varietals, in particular the region’s native foremost Agiorgitiko grape.

Explore the wines of Palivos Estate: https://palivos.gr/en/wines/

Gaia Wines from Nemea: One of the foremost well-known producers from Greece, Gaia wines captures the range of Greek wines with its wineries based in two distinct regions in Greece, each with their own unique microclimates– Nemea and Santorini. Located in Koutsi of Nemea, Gaia’s Nemean vineyards offer a unique diversity of soil and weather conditions within the established PDO region of Nemea, producing high-quality wines from the indigenous Agiorgitiko grape.

Explore the Gaia’s Nemean wines: https://gaiawines.gr/en/nemea-wines-en/ 

SANTORINI

Hatzidakis Winery: The Hatzidakis winery based in Santorini is one of the winemakers that produces the island’s hallmark Vinsanto wines. The native Aidani grape is also grown within the vineyards of this estate.

Explore the wines of the Hatzidakis winery: https://www.hatzidakiswines.gr/en/our-wines/ 

Estate Argyros: An artisanal wine producer focused on producing small quantities of high-quality wines, Estate Argyros is one of the leading estates of Santorini, working with the old vines of the island to produce wines with substantial depth, concentration and definition. The vineyards produces a variety of wines showcasing Santorini’s unique character, offering a range of prime white wines such as Assyrtiko wines and Vinsanto.

Check out Estate Argyros’ wines: https://estateargyros.com/wines/

Gaia Wines from Santorini: Gaia’s Santorini-based winery is idyllically located on the beach of Eastern Santorini in a historical restored industrial stone building. Gaia’s white wines are made from the native Assyrtiko grape grown from Santorini’s porous and volcanic soil.

Explore Gaia’s Santorini wines: https://gaiawines.gr/en/santorini-wines-en/

CENTRAL GREECE

La Tour Melas: Overlooking the Aegean Sea and located close to the Achinos village in Central Greece, the vineyards of La Tour Melas are planted on sloping terraces on alluvial soils containing a mix of sands, clays, limestone and coastal sediments. Bordeaux varietals of Merlot and Cabernet Franc are grown here, taking full advantage of the region’s terroir and prime Mediterranean climate to produce high-quality wines.

Explore the wines of La Tour Melas: https://www.latourmelas.com/gr/en/the-wines/la-tour-melas/

Till next time, happy sipping!

@ChopstickPride