How Singapore's Best Champagne Sommelier Blind Tastes & Identifies Champagnes: 8 Mystery Champagnes With Yeo Xi Yang

Champagne is perhaps one of the most recognisable wines in the world.

Yet if someone were to set up a flight of Champagnes before you, would you be able to identify the producers by taste? In theory this should be possible. Champagne makers have in their repertoire a huge range of levers to create a distinctive sensory fingerprint: grape variety, reserve-wine age, oxidative versus reductive handling, barrel fermentation, malolactic fermentation, dosage and lees ageing.

That’s the question we seek to answer Champagne sommelier Yeo Xi Yang at 67 Pall Mall Singapore one afternoon. 

The tricky part about blind tasting Champagnes

That being said, you would realistically still need quite a bit of knowledge on the nuances of Champagne producers to correctly identify a specific producer in a blind taste test.

Two reasons make blind tasting Champagnes quite a challenge.

The first is that many producers pride themselves on “lees ageing” – a process where a wine spends years in contact with yeast, and that contact grows an additional layer of “autolytic flavour” over the primary layer of fruit. This process is called autolysis, where yeast sediments chemically break down slowly and release amino acids, proteins and other compounds into the wine around it. The process produces notes like bread dough, brioche, biscuit, toasted almond and warm pastry, and also thickens the texture of the wine. Due to this winemaking choice, two wines from different villages and different varieties can appear superficially similar.

The second is the common practice of blending wines in Champagne.

A bottle of Champagne is often a mosaic of grape varieties, places, soils and several vintages. Many a time, blending decisions are influenced by agricultural realities rather than pure aesthetics.

Champagnes are often blended from the three principal varieties of Pinot Noir and Meunier (black varieties) and Chardonnay (a white variety). Even the single-variety wines are usually blends of a kind, assembled from different parcels and different villages. Single-parcel Champagnes do exist, though they can be counted on just one hand.

The same observation runs across vintages, which makes it difficult for one to identify a bottle by its vintage. Champagne producers have a historic practice of holding surplus wine back in personal reserves, to be drawn during tough vintages when frost or rain takes the crop. And so many Champagnes are blended from reserve wines across different vintages.

It’s clear that blind tasting a Champagne isn’t a party trick one could learn overnight. Lees ageing could layer a similar coat over very different wines. The most obvious terroir or grape variety influences could become anonymised due to the blending process.

An afternoon with Singapore's best Champagne sommelier

Before us in a seminar room of 67 Pall Mall Singapore, we had eight unlabelled glasses of Champagne and Yeo Xi Yang to show us how blind tasting Champagne is done.

Xi Yang is the sommelier-owner of Singapore’s first dedicated Champagne bar, Convivial, and with a stellar career that has seen him named Best Sommelier of Singapore in 2022.

Here’s our account of the experience flight-by-flight; the frameworks, clever guesses and thought processes of Yang as we proceed through the eight anonymous Champagnes.

First flight: Blind Tasting Blancs

After we've had the opportunity to taste the wines, we did a vote on our favourite wines. Wine 1 and Wine 2 were the favourites of the room. Wine 3 came in third. Wine 4 came last.

➤ How do we assess quality in a Champagne?

So why did Wine 4 finish last?

Wine 4 came at us flowery and fruity first, then almond and fresh bread, and it finished on citrus and green apple. There was a floral character running through it, and behind the flowers something faintly grainy, a little reminiscent of fruity Junmai Daiginjo sake. The mid-palate was nervy and taut, and the finish had some citrus with a twist of salt.

Xi Yang found it intentionally fruity, and guessed that the winemaker had picked the fruit later in the season to reach both sugar ripeness and phenolic ripeness. Fruit picked later tends to taste rounder and less green, with more breadth and fewer tannins in a wine. On the palate he found precision and focus, minerality, and a chalky quality he put down to the soil, and he confirms our view that there was very little autolytic character or depth to it.

➤ Lees ageing: Houses can afford to wait but growers usually cannot

The next question was whether Wine 4 was a grower or house Champagne.

One of the easiest ways to pigeonhole a Champagne producer is to sort them into “houses” and “growers”. A Champagne house (or maison) is often a large and well-funded négociant business which buys most of its fruit from growers across many villages and then blends it under its own name. A grower Champagne producer, on the other hand, makes wine only from vines the family directly owns and farms, usually in one village or from a small handful. Up until the last 50 years or so, most growers actually did not make Champagne, but sold their grapes to the houses.

An obvious tell whether a Champagne is grower or house is simply how much autolytic character there is in its profile – the time spent on the lees.

Ageing wine on the lees takes time, capital and cellar space. The Champagne houses have been trading for a century or two, often with access to a larger cellar space, and can leave wine lying on its lees for years without needing immediate cashflow. Louis Roederer, for instance, recently reached 250 years, and its prestige cuvée, Cristal, has recently turned 150.

Aging Champagne on their lees takes time and a lot of space.

Most growers do not have the same wherewithal. They have neither the room nor free cash flow, so they have to move the wine more quickly. 

Back at Wine 4, we all agreed that the thinner autolytic character suggests a grower Champagne that had spent a shorter time on the lees and carries little to no perpetual reserve.

Xi Yang opined that was that the winemaking looked deliberately hands-off, an attempt to let the site speak without much dressing on top of it.

➤ The two favourite glasses: one loud and one subtle

Wines 1 and 2 were tied based on a vote across the room, so that's where we went next.

Wine 1 was pale straw with a gold cast; the bubbles were very fine and still going long after the pour. We got lemon oil first, then something nuttier underneath it, almond or hazelnut, with fresh bread and white flowers sitting over the top. In the mouth it was taut and linear and somewhat dry. It finished long with a faintly smoky, flinty edge.

Xi Yang’s read on Wine 1 was that everything was in proportion with good fruit quality alongside deep autolysis. The quality of the fruit was obvious with the dosage judged precisely with clear chalk, salinity and acidity with distinct components and not one of them out of place.

Wine 2 led with lemon zest, crisp pear and white peach, and then a very obvious note of freshly baked bread sitting on top of all of it, toasted almonds behind. On the palate, it was bright and well structured, ripe citrus and orchard fruit with a subtle creaminess, and it finished clean and salty.

While the earlier wine was more seamless and balanced, Wine 2 felt much more stylistically assertive according to Xi Yang. It had a much more conspicuous yeast-derived character that made him think that the producer was deliberately announcing its house style. It’s almost like the wine was asking “Do you recognise me?” The producer probably used a recipe that it was keen to have us notice.

Anonymity in Champagne is more of a house habit, and some of the most anonymous bottles are in the non-vintage wines. By contrast, distinctiveness might tend to come from growers who are looking to make a point about a place or a method. When a house does let its style speak directly, it is generally seen in the vintage bottlings, and above all the prestige cuvées.

➤ The glass that smelt like grand cru

Wine 3 came in deeper gold. We got powdered chalk first, then candied lemon, jasmine and a lightly toasted almond note. As it opened it turned richer, closer to pastry and dried fruit. On the palate, it was round and fruity, dense, precise and salty all at once.

Xi Yang described the wine as being very pretty, approachable and pleasing. He got delicate white flowers, rounded acids and a quality of fruit that he would not be surprised to find in a grand cru or premier cru village. He could also pick out the chalky soil from it.

➤ Champagne Flight One Revealed

Here’s the reveal: Wine 1 was Franck Bonville Blanc de Blancs NV. Wine 2 was Delamotte Brut NV. Wine 3 was Louis Roederer Blanc de Blancs 2019. Wine 4 was Pierre Péters Cuvée de Réserve.

All four wines were Chardonnay-led – the Delamotte is the only wine that is not pure Chardonnay, being a blend of roughly 55% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir and 10% Meunier.

Xi Yang correctly identified the Delamotte (the “Do you recognise me?” wine) and Pierre Péters (the one with nearly no autolytic character). He also correctly guessed that Wine 3 was from a grand cru or premier cru site – the Louis Roederer Blanc de Blancs 2019 was from a single vineyard in Avize, which is a grand cru village.

Second flight: Blind Tasting Noirs 

The tasting was now focused on black grapes. And when it comes to Blanc de Noirs Champagne, there can only ever be two varieties: Pinot Noir and Meunier.

Wine 5 was perhaps the room’s favourite wine. But before getting into the wines, let’s take a step back to understand what each grape brings to a wine.

➤ The Pinot Noir vs Meunier framework

Pinot Noir (left) and Pinot Meunier (right) are closely related varieties that have nonetheless developed differences in flavour and viticultural behaviour over generations of natural mutation.

Structurally, Xi Yang described wines made from Pinot Noir to be firmer, tauter, and more broad-shouldered, while Meunier tends to be softer, rounder and more immediately approachable. Aroma-wise, Pinot Noir tends to offer more skin than flesh – think red apple skins or cherry skins, and even the perfume of raspberry and cherry rather than the sweet juice. 

Meunier is often more open and bright, with a tendency to lean towards yellow or golden orchard fruits, golden apples, pears, quince and mirabelle. In the glass, Meunier also tends to have higher acidity than Pinot Noir.

Aged Pinot Noir Champagnes develop earthiness, truffle, forest floor, tobacco, and a “sous bois” character which translates as notes of undergrowth.

Unfortunately, there is limited information on how on how Meunier ages compared with Pinot Noir. Xi Yang noted that Blanc de Noirs made entirely from Pinot Noir have been produced for a long enough time, so wine professionals are familiar with how they would develop. There is less data on Meunier, on the other hand. According to Xi Yang, there are good examples at five and ten years of age, but not enough of them to run a thirty-year comparison that would settle how Meunier develops over such a long time. Champagnes made entirely from Meunier were until recently something of a curiosity, because nearly all Meunier grapes disappear into blends.

With that very learned bit of trivia and caveat out of the way, Xi Yang expects aged Meunier to move from its youthful orchard fruit notes to more baked, honeyed and spiced flavours, such as baked golden apples which he likened to tarte tatin, baked honey, caramelised notes and perhaps some ginger.

You can see how the three principal grapes each do a different job in a blend, explained Xi Yang. Chardonnay supplies the acid line, the clarity and the mineral edge. Pinot Noir supplies structure and more tannins. Meunier supplies fruit generosity, openness and an immediate brightness.

➤ Finding the Meunier in Flight 2

At this point, we're given an essential clue about Flight 2. This flight contained two Blanc de Pinot Noirs (100% Pinot Noir Champagnes), one Blanc de Meunier (100% Meunier Champagne) and one blend. The strategy was thus to find the Meunier first, then the wine that seems “androgynous” as the blend, and then the remaining two would by elimination be the Pinot Noirs.

That sounded easy enough.

Wine 5 seemed to be the loudest glass on the table. We got ripe yellow plum and quince, fresh brioche over the top and something smoky and chalky underneath. Fine bubbles and a lemony and zesty finish.

Xi Yang liked Wine 5 a great deal. He found brown spice and curry leaf, and he read the wine as somewhat reductive. He believed this was not a bottle built to sit in a cellar for ten or fifteen years; it was meant for more immediate drinking.

He guessed that Wine 5 was a Meunier. Xi Yang explained that there is often a blood orange tone or bitter citrus edge that he could recognise in a Pinot Noir, and Wine 5 did not have it. Wine 5 also struck him as having slightly higher acidity than the other wines. On those two observations, Xi Yang made the call that Wine 5 is probably the pure Meunier.

➤ Growers vs Houses

The conspicuous aromatics of Wine 5 also led Xi Yang to believe that it is a grower Champagne – built deliberately to express its individuality rather than to reveal its character only after years of cellaring.

There was one more tell in Wine 5. Growers often let a Blanc de Noirs come out slightly pinker than a house would. The pinkest glass in the flight was Wine 5, and so Wine 5 was most likely a grower.

Wine 8 opened on ripe yellow orchard fruit, quince and mirabelle plums, toasted brioche, roasted almond and hazelnut, with acacia honey and a light floral lift. Ripe fruit and pastry running against a bright citrus line. The texture was creamy but held in check by freshness. The finish was long with blood orange tones.

Xi Yang described Wine 8 as more transparent, showing clarity and distinction. Compared with the louder Champagnes in this flight, Wine 8 was calmer and more collected, comfortable in its own skin without needing to be flashy. This led him to conclude that Wine 8 was a house Champagne.

➤ Champagne Flight Two Revealed

Now the answers. Wine 5 was Romain Henin La Bulle Libre “Meunier Tu Dors” Brut Nature 2022 (100% Meunier). Wine 6 was Philipponnat 1522 Extra Brut 2018 (72% Pinot Noir, 28% Chardonnay). Wine 7 was Rémi Leroy Blanc de Pinot Noir 2019 (100% Pinot Noir). Wine 8 was Bollinger PN AYC 21 (100% Pinot Noir).

Xi Yang successfully picked out Wine 5 as the flight’s lone Meunier. Taken together with his hypothesis that its expressive style evinced a grower Champagne, he also correctly concluded that this was the Romain Henin Meunier.

As for Wine 8, Xi Yang was correct on two counts: it was a house Champagne and it was Pinot Noir-led. While he settled on the Philipponnat, it was in fact the Bollinger Pinot Noir.

A cheat sheet to blind tasting Champagnes

Let’s revise everything we’ve learnt over the course of the afternoon.

1. House vs grower 

• A big hint as to whether a Champagne is made by a grower or a house is often the autolytic character of the wine. Deep autolytic character often suggests house Champagne, while thin autolytic character points towards a grower – simply because Champagne houses could provide for longer lees ageing.
• Certain growers who are particularly proud of their signature profile might be more stylistically assertive. Champagne houses, on the other hand, may value more nuance, subtlety, or simply appear more anonymous in NV cuvées.
• Blanc de Noirs made by growers tend to have a pinker hue compared to house Blanc de Noirs.

2. Blanc de Blancs vs Blanc de Noirs

• A textbook Chardonnay Champagne (which would be a Blanc de Blancs) tends to show precision, white apples and white florals.
• On the other hand, Champagnes that show more dark fruit character, roundness and lower acidity are more likely to contain some black grapes (Pinot Noir or Meunier), or even be a Blanc de Noirs.

3. Pinot Noir vs Pinot Meunier (Between Champagnes made from black grapes)

• Pinot Noir Champagnes tend to express red apple skin, cherry skin, or the perfume of raspberry and cherry rather than the juice or flesh. There may be a bitter citrus edge or blood orange. In terms of structure, Pinot Noir reads firmer and tauter with more tannins.
• Meunier, on the other hand, shows brighter orchard fruits in place of berries: quince, pears, golden apples, mirabelle plums, white flowers and chamomile. In terms of structure, Meunier reads softer, rounder and easier to approach. Meunier may also be slightly more acidic.

4. When in doubt, identify the most distinctive wine first 

• Find the item with the most distinctive signature. For instance, in Flight 2, there was only one Meunier. Once Xi Yang correctly identified it, he could safely assume that the remaining three glasses were Pinot Noir-driven.

Keep an eye on 67 Pall Mall’s events calendar

67 Pall Mall runs a members’ programme built entirely around wine, and properly insightful masterclasses as this. Each session has a theme, perhaps a producer, a region, a grape or a winemaking style, and the club brings in experts and specialist educators to lead it. There are also winemaker dinners on the calendar too.

You can find the list of upcoming events on Singapore Club’s official webpage. 

@CharsiuCharlie