Editor: We'd like to thank Stefan van Eycken for providing us invaluable context and interesting anecdotes about Suntory's history and distilleries in the latest edition of Whisky Rising.

This year, the House of Suntory celebrates its 100th Anniversary. I attended Suntory's grand centennial celebration, and had first dibs on their rare anniversary Yamazaki and Hakushu releases.

One day in the 1910s, in a dimly lit corner of his wine cellar, Shinjiro Torii, a young Japanese wine bottler, stumbled upon an old wooden barrel that he had forgotten. The barrel was filled with some alcohol originally intended for wine-making; Torii blended and sold what he called “Akadama Port Wine.” But after years of sitting in the barrel, the alcohol within had transformed. Upon opening, Torii was greeted by a liquid that had evolved into a mesmerising gold colour, enhanced in aroma and flavour by the time spent in wood.

Without hesitation, Torii bottled this liquid, selling it as "Tory’s Old Scotch Whisky" in 1919. It flew off the shelves. The problem? This was a one-time miracle, and Torii couldn't make more of it.

The overwhelming response for Torii’s accidental “whisky” ignited a flame of inspiration. A Japanese whisky era was coming, he thought. And he wanted to make the first authentic Japanese malt that would one day rival Scotch.

His critics were many, and support was thin. First off, no one had managed to produce authentic Scotch-style whisky in Japan. Following Scottish practice also meant maturing whisky in barrels, which meant zero income for years. It was the Roaring '20s; who had time for that?? But Torii, ever the dreamer, was unshaken. His eyes were fixed on the horizon, and he wasn't about to blink.

So in late 1923, in a move that solidified his place in history, Torii went to the outskirts of Kyoto and bought a piece of land in a little-known village called Yamazaki. This is the site of Japan's first malt whisky distillery, and represented the beginning of an era.

This year, the House of Suntory celebrates its 100th Anniversary, and indeed, the legacy of Shinjiro Torii carries on in ways that exceed the man’s wildest dreams. Suntory is now an emblem of Japanese culture, a fusion of tradition and modernity that continues to create waves in the global drinks industry. It was named the World’s Best Whisky in 2014. Hollywood stars like Keanu Reeves and Bill Murray now celebrate “Suntory Time” while clinking glasses of Yamazaki single malt.

Suntory's Centennial Celebration

I had the very special privilege to attend Suntory's centennial celebration a few days ago.

The evening unfolded at omakase and French brasserie Hanazen, located in the tranquil courtyard of Chijmes Singapore. Here we were gathered to celebrate the 100th Anniversary of a brand that has become synonymous with Japanese whisky.

For this event, Suntory had something special in store: a showcase of the hotly anticipated Yamazaki 18 Mizunara and Hakushu 18 Peated Malt limited edition anniversary bottlings. Now, the typical age statement Yamazakis and Hakushus were already hard to come by these days. These rare bottlings enjoy so much hype they are sure to become almost mythical among Japanese whisky enthusiasts. Having the opportunity to see them up close was genuinely exciting.

To mark this anniversary, Suntory pulled out all the stops. For August and September 2023, Suntory has partnered with a list of award-winning restaurants that have specially created menus that paired perfectly with Suntory’s whiskies.

This evening, we got to enjoy a taste of this exquisite pairing in a 3-course dinner prepared by restaurants La D'Oro, Hanazen, and Michelin-starred Whitegrass, which included high-grade Japanese ribeye carpaccio, unagi and Iberico ham. They were fantastic. 

| To make a reservation for a whisky paired dinner at an award-winning restaurant in August or September, click here.

A brief history of Suntory (and Japanese whisky)

The conversation naturally turned to the whiskies of this evening that we were all so eager to taste. Regional Marketing Manager Alaric Ng shared a bit about the history of Suntory. Everyone seemed to lean in as he started his tale, beginning with Suntory's first distillery, Yamazaki, that was built in 1923. This is Japan's oldest and first malt whisky distillery which laid the foundation for Suntory’s pioneering work.

Yet when Shinjiro Torii first started on whisky-making, his success seemed anything but guaranteed. The first whisky released in 1929, Suntory Shirofuda Whisky, was essentially a Japanese Scotch. This was met with a lukewarm response from Japanese drinkers who found it too spicy and smoky. It was a setback, but one that gave him a valuable lesson on the delicate palate of Japanese folks.

Close to a decade of trials and experimentations followed, and Torii finally developed in 1937 the new Kakubin Whisky (literally "square bottle" in Japanese). This became a hit. The tortoise-shell design Kakubin bottle became a familiar sight through Japan, particularly in the bustling Ginza district of Tokyo.

But the real turning point came in the 1950s when Suntory opened a chain of Torys Bars in Tokyo and Osaka. It was here that Suntory popularized the Kakubin Whisky Highball. Torys Bars followed a golden ratio for serving the whisky highball –  with 1 part Kakubin whisky and 3 parts soda water. This drink became so popular in Japan that it catapulted Kakubin into becoming the country's number one bestselling whisky.

In 1960, Shinjiro Torii worked with his son, Keizo Saiji, to create the final Suntory bottling he was to be involved in – the Suntory Royal. Upon tasting the Suntory Royal, the 81-year-old Torii closed his eyes with great emotion and said “The aroma brings to mind a flurry of falling cherry blossoms.” Satisfied that his legacy was in good hands, he entrusted Suntory to his son the following year. Torii passed away soon after. 

Suntory's journey paralleled the broader development of Japanese whisky. But it didn’t just follow trends – it actively set them, shaping not only its own destiny but the drinking culture of an entire nation. From an ambitious dream in a little-known village called Yamazaki, to international recognition and acclaim, the road had been long and winding.

His son, Keizo Saiji, introduced a premium line of Suntory “Pure Malt” from Yamazaki Distillery in 1984 – this is the original Yamazaki Single Malt that became the iconic single malt brand we’re all familiar with today.

As we turned to begin sampling the spirits we have before us, Regional Brand Ambassador Andrew Pang stepped in to take us through the significance of each expression.

Yamazaki’s affinity for Mizunara

Few things truly capture the Japanese spirit of craftsmanship and persistence as this expression, which was aged for 18 years exclusively in valuable Mizunara casks.

Mizunara translates to "water oak" in Japanese, and is a type of oak indigenous to Japan renowned for its unique attributes that make it both a blessing and a challenge for whisky-making. Once reserved for expensive furniture, Mizunara found itself being used by Japanese coopers during wartime when American and European oak was scarce.

Consider this: Of the tens of thousands of casks filled per year at Yamazaki (we estimate there're about 30,000), only about 150 are Mizunara casks. That's a minuscule number that speaks to the rarity and specialty of this unique oak.

But what value does Mizunara bring to whisky production? Its reputation comes not only from its imparting unusual temple incense, sandalwood and coconut flavours but also from the difficulty for craftsmen to work with this particular species of wood.

From a cooper's perspective, it’s a challenge to fashion casks out of Mizunara oak. Unlike straight-growing European or American oak trees, Mizunara grows in a warped fashion, requiring trees to be around 200 years old before usable cuts can be fashioned into barrels. Even then, these barrels are prone to leakage and breakage due to the oak's porous nature, necessitating thicker layers.

The whisky-maker also faces a challenge working with Mizunara. Too brief a maturation results in an unpleasant, one-dimensional astringency, while slightly too much time in Mizunara can cause the oak flavours to dominate, creating a bitter taste. The ideal balance is hard to strike, making Mizunara a Goldilocks of oak types.

Since the 1940s, Shinjiro Torii and Keizo Saji have begun experimenting with the optimal conditions and duration for aging whisky in this distinctive wood, reflecting a dedication to craftsmanship that is uniquely Japanese.

Almost all core range Yamazaki single malt expressions contain a component of Mizunara-aged whisky to give it a distinctive character. But, as I’ve mentioned, this limited release had been exclusively aged in Mizunara, which makes for not only a more intensely-flavoured whisky, but also one that had been very difficult to mature optimally. Let’s give this a taste.

Yamazaki 18 Mizunara 100th Anniversary Limited Edition, 48% ABV – Review

Colour: Gold with reddish hue. Fairly slow legs.

Nose: Initially somewhat elusive – it seemed mildly resinous and shy, as if holding back its character. It all opens up quite a bit after about 10 seconds of swirling and allowing my senses to adjust; the whisky begins to express itself more openly. Thick wine-like sweetness and nuttiness emerge from the depths, presenting rich notes of smooth Zinfandel wine, strawberry jam, and quince pie.

The bouquet continues to unfold, with elements of toffee and vanilla coming through, and a nutty undertone of toasted almonds.

Given slightly more time, an interesting mild powdered sugar sweetness surfaces, reminiscent of marshmallows or a traditional mochi-like South Chinese dessert, Ji Hong Gao (吉红糕). A touch of mintiness is also detected, along with a mild rubbery scent.

Palate: The texture is memorable, it’s noticeably oily and coats the tongue. A burst of syrupy fruitiness first greets the palate, again echoing the character of a sweet Zinfandel. Subtle undertones of baking spices, such as cinnamon and cloves, adding complexity. Mild sweet rose-like flavours reappear with more prominence; rose-flavored Turkish delight, and strawberry milk weave through the profile.

There is a layer of sandalwood and incense, typical of Yamazaki 12 but much more unmistakable here, along with a subtle spiciness from the Mizunara cask. I note this comes at a higher proof, but the overall tasting impression is quite friendly and accessible, even to those new to whisky.

Finish: Long and also quite characterful. A gradual warming sensation takes hold, while the finish unveils more sweet caramel and definitive notes of toasted coconut flakes that point to its Mizunara character. A mild warmth settles at the back of the throat.

My Thoughts:

This is an outstanding demonstration of good Mizunara matured whisky – successfully showcasing the sweet and complex profiles that characterize this rare and uniquely Japanese oak.

The nose is a little shy initially, but I’m happy to report that it offers a lot on the palate and finish. The evolution of flavour in the mouth over time consistently presents bold sweetness paired with delicate complexities. For those specifically seeking a Mizunara experience, this prominently showcases all of those classic characteristics, such as sandalwood, temple incense and coconut flakes,. But the most enjoyable part of it is the surprising level of jamminess and syrupy sweetness, which when paired with Mizunara notes, creates wonderful layered dimensions.

Comparing it to the Yamazaki 18 YO Mizunara cask expression released in 2017, the anniversary edition holds its own. While the 2017 version leans towards being spicy and punchy, bordering on resinous, this anniversary Mizunara expression seems better balanced and smoother. If faced with the choice between the two, the anniversary edition is the obvious pick for me.

| If you're based in Singapore, you may purchase a bottle from House of Suntory's official retailer here.

Green and Verdant Hakushu

If Yamazaki single malts stand as the embodiment of rich and robust Japanese craftsmanship, Hakushu single malts dance to a lighter, grassier, more earth-bound melody. They resonate with a character that's crisp, herbaceous and very gently smoky.

Fifty years after the establishment of Yamazaki, Keizo Saji, the son of the founder, saw the opportunity to take Torii’s dream further. He looked to build another malt distillery that would flourish in a contrasting environment, adding new layers of flavour and complexity to the Suntory portfolio.

How does Hakushu offer new flavours and complexity? Whisky enthusiasts might find this fascinating: the current Hakushu distillation facility looks like a playground for innovation, housing several stills of different sizes, shapes, and lyne-arm orientations. Such variety in distillation equipment was intentional. Stefan van Eycken, a Japanese whisky expert, had pointed out that, this array of different equipment reflects Suntory's realization that size and shape greatly impact the resulting spirit. And considering the range of different stills, we have a tangible testament to Suntory's pursuit of different styles and character in its whiskies.

The distillery was located in the sprawling forest area nestled at the foot of Mt. Kaikomagatake in the Southern Alps, making it one of the highest distilleries in elevation globally. With over 80 percent of the site remaining undeveloped, the site even includes a wild bird sanctuary, a subtle nod to Suntory's ecological mindfulness.

Standard Hakushu single malts already introduce a slightly peaty touch to the palate, but this peatiness had been mellowed down by the water source. The crispness and soft texture are credited to the water sourced from the alps, filtered through ancient granite rocks, rain, and snow.

Plenty of Scotch distilleries wax lyrical about the quality or uniqueness of the waters used. Suntory has a concrete benchmark for comparison: this same water used by Hakushu is also used in the Tennensui brand of mineral water owned by Suntory – Japan's most popular and top-selling mineral water. Hakushu is certainly on to something.

“Peated whisky” is often associated with smoky Scotches known for their intensity. However, this Hakushu Peated Malt anniversary release attempts to showcase what it dubs “Japanese Smoky”.

It's a subtler take on the peated style. Rather than being overpowering, the smoke in this single malt is less prominent, never ruling the flavour but rather elegantly integrating itself into a more complex and gentle pattern. It’s Suntory’s answer to the conventional peat-heavy expressions found elsewhere. Let’s give this a taste too.

Hakushu 18 Peated Malt 100th Anniversary Limited Edition, 48% ABV – Review

Colour: Bright gold

Nose: Clean and rather sweet with tinged with a slightly tart sensation. It greets the nose with a full-bodied honey sweetness and a light tartness of passionfruit, along with the presence of tobacco smokiness that weaves through the honeyed sweetness. Brings to mind smoked peaches. There’s a rather dominant caramel and fudge note playing a central role in the aromatic profile.

Palate: The palate shares pleasant oily and unctuous texture to that of the Yamazaki. Opens with a substantial sweetness with lashings of honey and bright notes of pomelo, smoky barbecued honeyed charsiew pork, accompanied immediately by a noticeable spiciness brought forth by cloves and cracked black pepper. As the flavour evolves, herbaceous elements emerge, displaying sage, and the gentle bitterness of perilla citrus rinds. The subtle smokiness is noticed, but never oversteps its bounds, always faithfully acting as a backdrop, somehow enhancing the sweetness and lingering in the background to harmonize the overall flavour.

Finish: Quite lengthy and filled with citrusy notes. A surprising amount of heat continues to linger, carrying the pepper forward from the palate. It concludes with a somewhat tart and drying note of lime zest, accompanied by an enduring ashiness.

My Thoughts

Starting with what went really well: this Hakushu 18 Years Old Peated Malt is an interesting Japanese whisky, particularly because it does indeed present an interesting peated style. The peat here is unmistakable yet elegant and gentle, blending seamlessly with the prominent sweet notes of honey and caramel. It's a robust and great-tasting whisky.

It falls a little bit short in complexity for me. The standard Hakushu's mineral notes and crisp finish seem to be lost amid the smokiness. Additionally, the higher alcohol content leads to a tradeoff in smoothness, and the heat seems more pronounced than in other Suntory whiskies of similar class, such as the Yamazaki 18 Mizunara and the Hibiki Japanese Harmony. This extra heat was a bit too much for my personal taste in Japanese whisky.

Nevertheless, I believe that enthusiasts of robust Japanese whiskies might still find much to appreciate in this expression. Its boldness and thickness make it a unique addition to Suntory’s lineup and a fitting tribute to the brand's anniversary.

But that said, I expect many devout drinkers of Japanese whisky would still really appreciate this Hakushu expression for its boldness and thickness. This remains a very original addition to Suntory’s lineup, and a solid tribute to Suntory’s anniversary, not to mention a collectible.

| If you are based in Singapore, you may purchase a bottle here.

| If you are based outside of Singapore, you may purchase a bottle here.

Conclusion

As the evening celebration drew to a close, everyone mingled and were happily poured more drinks from the fantastically stocked bar of Suntory spirits. This included the interesting Hibiki Blossom Harmony release which I copped a tasty dram for myself.

After speaking with Alaric, I realised that Suntory had a pleasant surprise for us guests that was wholly unexpected. Some months ago, we heard news of a really cute mini Suntory Anninversary commemorative bottling “Appreciation” making the rounds in Japan, which many speculated that this not-for-sale bottling is intended as a token of appreciation for Suntory’s trade partners and employees.

Guess what? Each guest attending the celebration was also offered an “Appreciation” bottling as thanks for their support. Aww! If this isn’t the sweetest gesture from a whisky company in memory, I don’t know what is!

Looking back at Suntory’s 100-year journey, you really can't help but recognise how far the company has come. Its journey from being one man’s crazy dream, to becoming one of the most sought after international brands that now even owns an iconic Western liquor company - Jim Beam Bourbon, the road has been long and winding, and Suntory had still managed to traversed it all the same. There's much to admire and plenty of stories to be inspired by.

And so we raise a glass to congratulate Suntory and Yamazaki for their 100^th Anniversary, as we eagerly anticipate more great whisky they will be making in the next 100 years to come! Kanpai to Suntory Time!

@CharsiuCharlie