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Bill Lark Tells Us How Curiosity Overcame Skepticism And Created The Modern Australian Whisky Scene; On First Impressions Of Tasmania's Brave New World, Staying In The Game & The Ongoing Search For Identity

 

Bill Lark is a man of many titles. For those outside of Australia, he is billed as the one who sparked off modern Australian distilling, whilst those within the scene locally will readily recount fond memories of him being a pioneer, a colleague, a mentor, a friend, and perhaps more than anything today, a passionate ambassador for the country's whiskies. It is said that no one in Australian distilling today has not been guided by Bill in one way or the other, and just as he has paved the way with his namesake Lark Distillery, so has he lit the lamp posts for the many Australian and Tasmanian distilleries that have come after.

Today we get to speak with none other than the Australian whisky godfather himself - Bill Lark!

Follow us as we dive right into the earliest beginnings of Lark - the man, his family, and the whisky - as well as the burgeoning scene as Bill saw it, staying in the game through the highs and lows, and finally a look into the future for what lays ahead for Australian distilling.

Website: LARK Distillery | Instagram: LARK Distillery

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Hi Bill, thank you so much for taking the time out to talk to us – so much has been said about your pioneering work in helping to establish not only Tasmania’s whisky scene, but more broadly Australia’s! And for that reason, we can think of few other people who can lay claim to an Instagram handle the likes of @WhiskyGodfather!

To briefly recap the story thus far, it all starts with that one fateful trout fishing trip to the Tasmanian Central Highlands in 1989 with your father-in-law Max, who had brought with him some whisky, which prompted you to ponder why it was that even with Tasmania’s wonderful climate, great barley, purest air and water - with even its own peat bogs! – that whiskies weren’t being produced on the island, when in fact everything it needed was available! Later on, you would talk about it with your wife Lyn - both of you had worked in the land surveying trade at the time - who would suggest you both give it a go and try and make your own whisky! At the time, antiquated Prohibition styled laws had made it very difficult for a small home distiller to legally make whisky, and with some gusto, both you and Lyn were able to gain the support of lawmakers to make the necessary amendments in 1992 which would of course open the floodgates to Australian distilling! Lark Distillery would therefore hold the honour of being the first to receive an official distilling license! And so it’s been quite a whirlwind for you the past three decades plus!

Today Lark Distillery is recognised as not just a pioneer of New World whiskies, but is also one that is beloved by fans around the world, and highly regarded for its sterling quality! Through its various shapes and forms – largely mirroring that of the broader development of the Australian distilling scene – Lark Distillery has grown from a little shed in Cambridge, to the size and scale today, ready to take on the world! Along the way you’ve released many iconic and innovative whiskies, and have yourself picked up a slew of well-deserved awards, from Lifetime Achievement (Spirits Business Awards), to being inducted into the World Whisky Hall of Fame – only the seventh person outside of Scotland / Ireland to do so at the time – and of course the Member of Order of Australia, just to name a few! And so today, we’d love to learn more about your story – the parts not yet seen – and to look back at your work, now from the lens of being an Ambassador for both Lark Distillery, and unofficially Australian distilling! Without further ado, let’s get right to it!

 

The one and only Australian whisky godfather!

 

[88 Bamboo] Many call you the Godfather of Australian distilling, the icon of Tasmanian whiskies, and so much about your story and work has been retold by hundreds, if not thousands of people around the world, yet today, we’d like to give you a chance to reintroduce yourself – in your own words, who is Bill Lark? Now, there are also a lot of myths about you, given your almost legendary stature, what’s one myth that you’d love to set the story straight on?

[Bill Lark] I'm still a boy scout at heart and land surveyor from Tasmania who was curious enough to have a go. I’ve never thought of myself as a pioneer or a rule-breaker. I simply followed my instincts, asked a lot of questions, and cared deeply about making something honest and of real quality. Whisky, for me, has always been about place, patience and people. I see myself less as a creator and more as a custodian, doing my best to look after something for the next generation.

The biggest myth is that LARK was the result of some grand master plan, or that it was ever a solo pursuit. The truth is, there was no blueprint and no certainty that it would work. What there was, from the very beginning, was Lyn. Her drive, belief and willingness to push ideas forward were every bit as important as my curiosity. We backed ourselves when it mattered and kept moving forward when the easier option would have been to stop. Without that partnership, the innovation and the shared stubbornness to see it through, LARK simply wouldn’t exist.

 

[88 Bamboo] Now going back to the early days of when you and your wife Lyn were just figuring out how to actually distill whiskies, having gotten the laws amended and your distilling license in check, you often recount how you serendipitously received a call from John Grant of one of Scotland’s most iconic (and very few family-owned) distilleries, Glenfarclas, who would in time to come provide you much guidance as he had figured that if people were to taste whiskies for the first time in Tasmania / Australia and it was yours, he’d very much like them to have a good first impression. Tell us more about what that meant to you!

[Bill Lark] One of the most meaningful experiences I’ve shared with a fellow distiller came through John Grant at Glenfarclas. When we were just starting out at LARK, with more questions than answers, John was the first person to pick up the phone and offer help. No agenda, no conditions, just generosity and encouragement at a moment when it mattered deeply.

 

Glenfarclas' John Grant.

 

That single phone call set so much in motion. Years later, being able to collaborate with Glenfarclas felt like a full-circle moment. John found a remarkable cask distilled at Glenfarclas in 1992, and together we created a release that carried both our stories, not just a collaboration, but a genuine friendship and thirty years of Tasmanian distilling.

What made it truly special was what it represented: trust between distillers, respect across generations, and the reminder that this industry, at its best, is built on people quietly helping one another along the way.

 

[88 Bamboo] When you had first started out making whiskies, what was the style of whisky you had envisaged yourself wanting to make?

[Bill Lark] When Lyn and I first started out, the first question was whether making a Tasmanian whisky of any credibility was possible.  I’d been introduced to great whisky through Scotch, and those whiskies naturally sat in my mind as a benchmark, not to copy, but to measure ourselves against in terms of quality and integrity. Very quickly, we proved to ourselves that we could make excellent whisky here in Tasmania, and our ambition shifted. It became about creating whiskies with elegance, letting the character of Tasmania be our compass.

 

Lyn and Bill Lark.

 

From there, the influence of fortified wine casks, something deeply connected to Australian drinking culture, became an important part of our identity. Those casks allowed us to build richness, texture and complexity in a way that felt both distinctive and true to place.

That philosophy has continued to evolve, and today it’s carried forward through a clear and confident house style under the leadership of our Master Distiller, Chris. His approach has brought focus, while still giving the team freedom to experiment. The result is a style defined by flavour-led decisions, characterised by fortified depth, silky complexity, and a distinctly New World fusion of sweetness and umami - which is what defines LARK whisky today.

 

The early years.

 

[88 Bamboo] You’ve also mentioned how in the early days, you had experimented with all sorts of yeast strains and barrel types, as well as having to make whiskies in whatever space you had – be it a kitchen, bakery, bar or shed! – could you share with us a moment in those early days that has stuck with you? What was the craziest place you made whiskies and what lengths did you have to go to make the set-up work? Was there also a lightbulb “Ah-Hah!” moment in those early days where you felt that you had finally gotten the hang of it, and which convinced you that you were able to make great whiskies? 

[Bill Lark] In the early days, experimentation wasn’t a strategy so much as a necessity. We were working with whatever space we could get our hands on and whatever equipment we could adapt to do the job. I’ve made whisky in kitchens, bakeries, bars and in sheds that were never designed for distilling. Looking back, the craziest part wasn’t the locations themselves, but the determination to make them work, rerouting plumbing, modifying equipment, and constantly problem-solving just to keep things running.

We tried just about every yeast strain we could get access to and filled whatever barrels we could source. There was a lot of trial and error, and plenty of moments where things didn’t go to plan. But each experiment taught us something - about flavour, fermentation and how much character could be built before the spirit ever saw a cask.

The real “ah-ha” moment didn’t arrive all at once. It came quietly, when we started tasting spirit that consistently showed depth, balance and texture, even before maturation had done its work. That was when I realised we weren’t just making whisky anymore; we were understanding it. From that point on, it felt possible. Not easy and certainly not predictable, but possible. And that belief - that great whisky could be made here, by staying curious and paying attention - is what carried us forward.

 

Turning Tasmania's natural beauty and purity into world class whiskies.

 

[88 Bamboo] What were some of the early reactions that you received, when you first told people of your own Tasmanian-made whiskies?

[Bill Lark] The reactions were mixed, to say the least. Some people were genuinely curious and encouraging, but plenty were politely sceptical. At the time, Tasmania simply wasn’t on the whisky map and the idea that a small operation at the bottom of the world could produce serious whisky was, for many, hard to believe.

There were raised eyebrows, a few indulgent smiles, and more than one suggestion that we might be better off sticking to something safer. Whisky was seen as the domain of Scotland, and stepping outside that tradition felt, to some, unrealistic or even a little foolish.

 

 

But that scepticism was never discouraging; if anything, it sharpened our resolve. From the very beginning, it wasn’t a solo journey. There were countless people who shared their knowledge, offered guidance, lent a hand, and celebrated the small wins along the way. It was and still is a genuine community effort.

We weren’t trying to convince anyone with words; we let the spirit do the talking. Once people tasted the whisky, the conversation changed. Curiosity replaced doubt, and gradually, Tasmania began to earn its place in the whisky world, one bottle and one extraordinary community at a time.

 

[88 Bamboo] Something that has always enthralled us and we’ve always felt has gotten insufficient attention is how in the context of Lark’s whiskies being made 100% of Tasmanian ingredients, from barley to water, and even peat! Whilst we understand that Lark uses a fairly small amount of peat – Tasmania having the largest peat reserves in Australia – you’ve actually had to gain a mining license (Lark being the only distillery to hold one!) in order to harvest that peat, and yet as we know it’s incredibly important to that signature Lark style. 

What was the initial reaction that the team at Lark Distillery had when you propositioned this idea? What was going through your mind when you had thought to be the first to use local Tasmanian peat?

[Bill Lark] When I first floated the idea of using local Tasmanian peat, the team’s reaction was of excitement and a touch of scepticism.  It was one of those ideas that sounded bold on paper but, in practice, was uncharted territory. Tasmania has the largest peat reserves in Australia, yet no distillery had ever attempted to use it, and doing so meant navigating licensing, logistics and a very particular approach to harvesting.

 

Tasmania has the largest peat bogs within Australia.

 

For Lyn and I, the appeal wasn’t just the peat, it was the chance to create a whisky that is 100% Tasmanian, from the barley we grow to the pristine water we use, right through to that signature touch of peat. Tasmania’s super-climate, with its four distinct and bold seasons, is the ideal environment for maturation, plus gives our barley an incredible depth of flavour, and the water and peat provide subtle nuances you simply can’t replicate anywhere else in the world. The combination of these local ingredients, shaped by our unique environment, is what gives LARK its unmistakable character.

Securing the mining license was a small hurdle that propelled us forward, for when we finally tasted that first batch, the result wasn’t just a whisky, it was a true reflection of place: Tasmanian in every drop.

 

Lark's just unveiled a new line of single malts - and no surprises there, they are incredibly unique, complex and flavour forward. Read our review here!

  

[88 Bamboo] Now, in the past over 30 years, you’ve seen not just Lark Distillery, but the broader Tasmanian and Australian distilling scene really take off, today finding its seat at the table of amongst the world’s best whiskies. What would you say specifically about the Tasmanian / Australian distilling scene is the industry’s biggest strengths? And what are then the existential questions or challenges it must overcome to not just stay around, but continue to grow, in the coming decades?

[Bill Lark] Over the past 30 years, watching not just LARK but the broader Tasmanian and Australian distilling scene grow has been incredible. One of our greatest strengths is our environment, particularly Tasmania’s four distinct, often extreme seasons.  Combined with pristine water and a uniquely expressive natural landscape, this climate gives our whiskies a character that simply can’t be replicated elsewhere. It’s a powerful natural advantage, and when paired with creativity and intent, it’s what enables us to produce truly world-class spirits.

Another strength is our freedom to innovate. Unlike some regions with centuries of rigid regulation, here we’ve had the ability to experiment; that flexibility, paired with a collaborative, tight-knit community of distillers, means we learn from each other and push boundaries faster than in more traditional markets. Having been involved with so many distilleries over the years, I’ve seen how this community spirit, sharing knowledge, ideas, and even mistakes, has been critical to our success.

 

 

The challenges, though, are real. The question of identity: how do we stay true to what makes Australian and Tasmanian whisky unique, even as global attention grows and demand increases? Balancing growth with authenticity, and innovation with respect for place, will be the existential challenge for the coming decades. But if we continue to leverage our environment, embrace creativity, and support one another as a community, I’m confident Tasmania and Australia will not just remain on the whisky map, but continue to shape it.

  

[88 Bamboo] You’ve also mentioned that as one of the pioneers of this industry, you would like to see it protected with the appropriate industry regulations that will at the same time not stifle innovation, whilst also reflecting the economic feasibility of distilling in Tasmania / Australia – why is this so important for the industry as it continues to grow?

And do you see a need for these regulations to differentiate and separately recognize Tasmanian whiskies from Australian whiskies?

[Bill Lark] As the Australian & Tasmanian whisky industries grow, there’s a place for sensible regulation that protects quality and provenance without getting in the way of creativity. Clear, transparent standards help build trust with drinkers and safeguard what makes our whiskies special, while still allowing room to innovate and acknowledging the practical realities of distilling in Tasmania and Australia.

There’s also value in recognising Tasmanian whisky as distinct within the broader Australian category, so long as any framework celebrates regional character and supports producers, rather than boxing them in.

 

Blast from the past! Bill and Lyn showcasing their Bush Liqueur.

 

[88 Bamboo] To that end, it’s often said that you’ve been absolutely formative to most everyone in the Tasmanian / Australian distilling scene, from having actually rolled up your sleeves and helping out in your fellow distilleries to being an important mentor to those in the industry, we can only guess as to how much rests on your shoulders! What’s kept you going, and what do you tell yourself, in your toughest times? 

[Bill Lark] What’s kept me going has always been a deep belief in what we’re building. I’ve never seen this as an individual pursuit; it’s always been about the place, the people and the potential of Tasmanian and Australian whisky. Being part of that bigger picture gives you energy, even when things are tough.

 

 

In the hardest moments, I’ve reminded myself why we started: to make something authentic, to reflect where we’re from and to do it properly. I also lean heavily on the community around me. This industry has grown because people have shared knowledge, lent a hand and backed one another, and I’ve been lucky to both give and receive that support over the years.

And finally, patience. Whisky teaches you that nothing good is rushed. You show up, you do the work, you trust the process, and over time, things find their way forward.

  

[88 Bamboo] The Tasmanian / Australian distilling scene has of course – as with any burgeoning industry – gone through its fair share of rough and tumbles, yet you’re still here more than 30 years on, what keeps you coming back to it and staying in the game?

And what’s something about the Lark Distillery, and also the Tasmanian / Australian distilling scene, that very few people know about, that you can share with us?

[Bill Lark] What keeps me coming back is simple: I still love it. After more than 30 years, I’m still learning and excited by what’s possible. Distilling whisky rewards patience and persistence, and those rough patches are part of the deal. If anything, they remind you why you started in the first place. I’ve never seen this as a short game; it’s always been about building something that lasts.

 

 

What very few people realise about LARK is just how hands-on and human it has always been. Even as its grown, the spirit of experimentation, collaboration and care is still there; many decisions are made by tasting, debating, tweaking and tasting again. That mindset has never changed.

More broadly, within the Tasmanian and Australian distilling scene, there’s a quiet generosity that’s helped lift the entire category, and it’s one of the reasons we’re still here, still growing, and still finding new ways to surprise the world.

  

[88 Bamboo] More broadly speaking, as someone who’s been in the whisky scene for many decades, and have seen it go through its various stages of growth, what’s something of the whisky scene of your early days that you’d like to see return to the scene today? And what’s something you’d like to see the future bring to the whisky scene of today?

 

Bill Lark with Lark's Master Distiller Chris Thomson.

 

[Bill Lark] In the early days, there was less certainty and a real willingness to experiment within the industry, simply because no one quite knew what was “right” yet. People were guided more by instinct and a shared excitement for discovery rather than by trends or expectations. I’d love to see more of that spirit return to the Australian distilling industry. 

There was plenty of healthy scepticism of the Australian whisky scene in my early days, and I'm pleased to see we have pretty much conquered that notion. I'd like to see the future where Tasmanian and Australian whisky is considered in the same high regard as the best whiskies in the world, being enjoyed by whisky lovers throughout the world. 

Looking ahead, what excites me most is seeing the whisky scene continue to mature with confidence. I’d like the future to bring deeper respect for place, where ingredients come from, how climate shapes flavour, and why regional character matters, alongside thoughtful innovation. If the next chapter is one where producers stay brave, collaborative and committed to quality, while building something sustainable for the long term, then the best days of whisky are still very much ahead.

 

 Kristy and Jack have made distilling a family affair.

 

[88 Bamboo] It must also be mentioned that your daughter, Kristy Lark-Booth, has gone on to make some incredible whiskies, paving her own way through her distillery, Killara. That must be a massively proud parent moment for both you and Lyn! What’s that been like for you and Lyn? 

[Bill Lark] Lyn and I are obviously incredibly proud of Kristy and what she’s achieved with Killara. Watching her carve out her own path, on her own terms, has been incredibly rewarding.

Our son Jack recently launched a whisky as well, really does make it a true family affair, but what matters most to us is that both of them are doing it with integrity and passion.

 

 

[88 Bamboo] Having retired from Lark Distillery into the early 2010’s and transitioning into your role as the distillery’s Ambassador, you’ve seen the distillery go through so many of its life stages, and has transformed into today a globally renowned brand. You’ve also done more for the Tasmanian and Australian distilling scene that likely anyone else. With everything that you’ve done, wow would you like to be remembered, and what would you like to remembered for? 

[Bill Lark] Throughout the journey of setting up LARK and helping it grow into the brand it is today, I’ve always tried to do more than just make whisky. I’ve worked to foster a sense of community within the Tasmanian and Australian distilling scene, to share knowledge, support other distillers and help the industry grow alongside LARK. If I’m remembered for anything, I hope it’s not just for the whiskies we’ve made, but for the way I’ve tried to help others find their feet, encouraging innovation and celebrating the unique character of Tasmania. I’d like to be remembered as someone who helped build a strong, connected, and forward-looking industry, where collaboration and care for craft are just as important as the spirit in the bottle.

 

[88 Bamboo] If you could share a dram of whisky with anyone, who and what whisky would it be?

[Bill Lark] If I could share a dram of whisky from anyone in the early days of whisky production in their various regions, it would be William Grant, who established Glenfiddich Distillery and Masataka Taketsuru, who established the Japanese Whisky industry, first helping Suntory, then establishing the Yoichi Distillery. I would love to hear, first-hand, their story.

 

(Top Row): Glenfiddich Distillery, William Grant; (Bottom Row): Masataka Taketsuru; Yoichi Distillery.

 

[88 Bamboo] As someone who’s lived many lives, one of few people who can lay claim to having set off a whole industry, and in so doing have met so many folks both from and outside the trade, with luminaries the likes of Glenfarclas’ John Grant even, what’s been the best piece of advice you’ve ever received (this could be from anyone, even from outside whisky)?

[Bill Lark] The best advice I've ever received comes from two people, one outside the whisky industry and the other within. My old surveying partner, Ron Brooks, instilled in me the wonderful ethic "if you are going to do something, do it well, do it right and give it your all." This ethic was reinforced by John Grant soon after we received our distilling license in 1992.  John's hope was to ensure our whisky would be a good experience for those trying an Australian whisky for the first time.

 

 

[88 Bamboo] Last but not least, if you could name 5 expressions / labels that tell the story of Bill Lark – they can be any drink, not limited to whiskies – what would they be?

[Bill Lark] The 5 expressions of spirits that tell my story would have to be:

  1. Firstly, a Glenfiddich single malt, as it was a 12 Year Old Glenfiddich which I was enjoying with my father-in-law when I asked the question that started not only my whisky journey but the Australian whisky industry.

  2. Secondly, it would be a Glenfarclas 15 Year Old, which was the whisky that Lyn and I toasted the decision to apply for a distillery licence with.

  3. Thirdly, Tasmanian Bush Liqueur, which was developed by my wife, Lyn, and it was the product which launched us into the commercial world while we were waiting for our first whisky to be released.

  4. Fourth, the whisky that Lyn and I were determined to make following that fateful discussion with John Grant, Lark Classic Cask, This was to be our first whisky style which was to be a beautifully balanced and elegant whisky which highlighted all the elements that go into producing a Tasmanian Single Malt whisky from the delicate floral nose derived from Tasmanian barley, the rich fruit cake & plum pudding notes form Australian fortified wine casks at the front of the palate before building into a luscious malty mid palate before finishing with a hint of Tasmanian peat at the back of the palate.

  5. Finally, to the future of Lark and the Tasmanian whisky industry, from our new range, the Lark Devil's Storm. Our distiller, Chris, has done an amazing job producing a sensationally balanced whisky that beautifully highlights Tasmania's unique climatic conditions, its amazing produce and especially highlights the exceptional Australian fortified casks we are so fortunate to have access to. 

  

For me, those five expressions tell my story from the past to the future.

 


Thank you Bill once again for doing this interview with us!

We’re really privileged to share our conversation with you to our readers, as the very touchstone to what set off the vibrant Australian distilling scene as we know and enjoy it today!

 

Kanpai!

 

@111hotpot