Perhaps a bar that needs no introduction is the Darkside bar in Rosewood Hotel, Hong Kong, one of Asia's top bars which consistently cinches spots on the Asia's 50 Best Bars list. Earlier this year, the bar launched an attention-grabbing Mahjong themed cocktail menu, featuring eight original cocktails inspired by mahjong tiles. More recently, it debuted a new "Classics from the 90s" cocktail menu, featuring cocktails such as the Breakfast Martini, Cable Car, and Añejo Highball.

One of the key figures behind the innovative tipples at Darkside is KT Lam, who is the assistant bar manager at the bar. Prior to working at Darkside, KT has been behind the bar and plugged into the Hong Kong drinks scene since 2014.

We recently had the chance to interview KT, who shared more about his passion for showcasing and incorporating local Hong Kong ingredients via cocktails and the behind-the-scenes creative process at Darkside. Plus, with KT's help, we even take a peek behind Darkside's amazing cabinet of rare aged spirits to find out which bottles you should be keeping an eye on the next time you head to Darkside. Let's dive in! 

For more, be sure to follow KT and Darkside! 

88B: Hi KT! DarkSide opens at night, but we’re sure the work begins long before that during the day. Could you share what an average day in your life is like?

KT: I always start my day with a cup of good coffee, then check emails or messages that might come in overnight. Afterwards, I will review the inventory levels to ensure we have sufficient ingredients and supplies. Followed by mise en place – ensuring all necessary glassware, tools, and ingredients are well prepared before the bar opens. When it's close to evening service, I will go through all the reservations with the team and brief the staff to ensure they pay attention to guests’ special needs and preferences, or if there are any special guests' arrivals.

88B: Darkside is known for its innovative cocktail concepts that take inspiration from the “darker side” of life, with previous cocktail menus such as the Modern Forgotten Classic Menu that pays homage to retro drinks from yesterday.

Here at 88 Bamboo, we love our mahjong! (We even named our website after a mahjong tile!) So, you can imagine our excitement when we learnt that you and Simone Rossi (Director of Bars) had created a new menu inspired by the beloved game. Could you share more about why you chose to use mahjong as focal point for this new concept? What do you hope for customers to take away from this new menu?

KT: Inspiration for most of our cocktail menus is from the Rosewood brand’s A Sense of Place® philosophy which is to reflect the individual location’s history, culture and sensibilities. Not only do we support the local farms by sourcing ingredients and herbs from them, we have also collaborated Hong Kong spirits brand, Fernet Hunter, and a local foraging expert to create the “Hunting Hong Kong Flavours” cocktail menu in 2021, using ingredients collected and hand-picked locally under the direction of forager.

We love celebrating local art and crafts with our guests; therefore we have invited local artisans who remain faithful to time-honoured crafts to contribute their unique skills to “The Art of Mahjong” menu. We have commissioned the mahjong tile-makers masters Ricky Cheung and Karen Aruba Art to re-imagine the flower and season mahjong tiles for the menu’s artwork, while local glass-blowing workshop Soekjing Studio designed and handcrafted our cocktail glassware. Ceramics were created by Tung Yao Ceramics, a long-standing local brand renowned for developing and celebrating Chinese pottery. 

We love celebrating local art and crafts with our guests; therefore we have invited local artisans who remain faithful to time-honoured crafts to contribute their unique skills to “The Art of Mahjong” menu.

Mahjong is an iconic tile-based game that has become integral to Hong Kong society over the years. Locals love playing mahjong! The team and I were very impressed with the craftsmanship and artistry of the traditional hand-carved mahjong tiles.

With that in mind, we created 8 cocktails that reinterpret the game’s bonus tiles and their associated Confucian plants and seasons into the base flavors:  Plum, Orchid, Bamboo, Chrysanthemum, Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter. I hope guests will learn how to appreciate the beauty of local craftsmanship and traditions. Hand carved mahjong is a very valuable part of our local cultural heritage, which I wish to share with our guests and most importantly, help to keep alive for future generations to appreciate and enjoy. 

88B: You’ve previously mentioned that you enjoy experimenting with local ingredients that are unique to Hong Kong in order to reimagine them into cocktails. What are some of your favorite go-to local ingredients, or local ingredients that you find are incredibly underrated?  Is there a local Hong Kong ingredient that you think more people should know about?

KT: Sweet potato is something that really surprised me when I worked on The Art of Mahjong menu. It has become my recent favorite local ingredient.

I have used sweet potato in the cocktail “Winter,” which is a nod to the traditional Chinese sweet potato and ginger sweet soup... Served on the rocks and garnished with sweet potato candy, each sip brings a sweet undertone from taro, spiciness from ginger, hearty notes from sweet potato, and a slightly creamy texture from egg white.

I have used sweet potato in the cocktail “Winter,” which is a nod to the traditional Chinese sweet potato and ginger sweet soup. It is designed for sour whisky lovers, albeit made with Matusalem 15 Years Rum. Served on the rocks and garnished with sweet potato candy, each sip brings a sweet undertone from taro, spiciness from ginger, hearty notes from sweet potato, and a slightly creamy texture from egg white.

Another ingredient is local tangerine peel; we have incorporated this ingredient into the cocktail “Spring” which also create a sense of place and connects guest with the local cultures, as locals have a practice of eating dried tangerine peel to relieve indigestion or vomiting. The unique flavour will give our guests a taste of Hong Kong. 

88B: What is one cocktail on the new menu that takes a surprising amount of effort and time to create? One that perhaps uses a type of innovative technique that is not often discussed?

KT: “Winter” is my favourite cocktail as it reflect the bar commitment to innovation and creativity, also because of the time, effort and skill that goes into preparation.

We have to precook and bake the sweet potato before it turn into a puree, however the special technique is a secret that cannot be disclosed. Come to DarkSide to find out!

We have to precook and bake the sweet potato before it turn into a puree, however the special technique is a secret that cannot be disclosed. Come to Darkside to find out!

88B: Is there a particular cocktail on the menu that you get most excited about making whenever you see that a customer has ordered it?

KT: It would definitely be “Winter”. Using sweet potato and ginger as key ingredients adds a local and familiar touch to the drink. Many guests can immediately relate to the traditional dessert and recall memories of childhood or family gatherings in Winter Solstice.

88B: DarkSide is also known for its extensive and highly rare selection of aged brown spirits. As a bar manager, you’re in charge of supervising the team on all aspects related to DarkSide’s rare aged brown spirits. What’s something that not a lot of people know about the brown spirits collection at DarkSide? Are there certain bottles that the team is most proud to have in their collection? 

KT: Mitcher’s Celebration Sour Mash Whiskey (2019) is one of bottles that we are proud to have in our collection. There are only two bottles in Hong Kong, and only 277 bottles were produced for sale. The 2019 release combines whiskey from 6 extraordinary barrels in Mitcher’s stocks.

Another key highlight would be our own specially sourced cask of Grande Champagne cognac, which you can taste from barrel to glass. 

88B: Psst… a little birdie told us that the team at DarkSide may potentially be already working on their new menu for 2024. Could you share with our readers a bit more about what the creative process of workshopping a new menu is like?

KT: It always begins with a brainstorming session centered on a specific theme that ties in with our A Sense of Place® philosophy.

We hope the drinks not only taste great but also tell the story of the local history and culture. We will experiment with different ingredients and techniques to develop a drink list. The team and I will then discuss, refine and develop the cocktails and ensure the drinks fit with the theme and the style of DarkSide.

We hope the drinks not only taste great but also tell the story of the local history and culture. 

To further incorporate local elements in our cocktail menu, we constantly explore opportunities to partner with local spirits brands, designers, or artisans to support and promote local creative talents. 

88B: The bar industry can be very competitive at the highest level, especially in Hong Kong. And you clearly have to have a lot of grit and discipline to stay in the game. What was that one moment that made you decide you wanted to become a bartender? As someone who’s been in the industry since 2014, do you have a favorite memory of your time behind the bar?

KT: There isn’t a particular moment, I was just naturally drawn to the interactive nature of the job as I enjoy meeting people from around the world. Being a bartender, you get the opportunity to engage with different guests and explore different cities especially during special guest shifts.

Darkside was also more recently honoured as #13 in Asia's 50 Best Bars 2022!

DarkSide being named in the Worlds 50 Best Bars 2021 (ranked #49) is definitely one of my best moments. It was a huge recognition of all the hard work and dedication that the team and I have given in the past few years. It really motivates and drives us to push our boundaries to create a truly exceptional bar. 

88B: You’ve opened up before that when you’re not workshopping new recipes for work, you actually do not drink that much and prefer to abstain from alcohol. Yet, we can imagine that there are certain natural pressures to drink that come while you’re on shift. How do you navigate your relationship with alcohol while you’re on the job?

KT: Being professional and responsible, I prefer not to drink while working as I have to be very focused to deliver the best experience to guests. During my day off, I love going to the gym. For me, it’s the most effective way for me to relax and unwind.

Darkside recently launched their new "Classics from the 90s" cocktail menu, featuring drinks like Breakfast Martini, Cable Car, and Añejo Highball.

88B: Last but not least, with borders to Hong Kong reopened, we know a lot of people are keen to visit! We’d love to get your travel recommendations! If someone is new to Hong Kong and only had a weekend to spend there. where should they visit and how should they plan their itinerary?

KT: Wan Chai Promenade is great place to visit, and you will see the stunning views of Victoria Harbour. Visitors can also enjoy the iconic Symphony of Lights show that takes place every night at 8pm, which features a synchronised display of lights and music from the buildings along the harbour. In fact, I often go there for a walk or a run. It has plenty spaces for people to relax and enjoy the view; you will also see some public art installations along the promenade.

And, of course, they should come to Darkside in Rosewood Hong Kong! It's a must-visit destination for anyone who is looking for a sophisticated and luxurious night out. People can enjoy our innovative cocktails, daily live jazz performance, and stunning views of Victoria Harbour. Most importantly, come to try our newly launched cocktail menu, "Classics from the 90's"!

88B: A big thank you once again to KT for doing this interview with us! It's been great fun getting more of a peek behind the bar at one of our favorite cocktail spots in Asia! 

If you ever find yourself in Hong Kong, why not venture to the Darkside to get a unique taste of the variety of local ingredients that Hong Kong has to offer - all reinvented through a host of unique artisanal cocktails. 

While you're there, be sure to say hi to KT and his team, who are consistently setting the bar for what world class hospitality looks like! 

All photos courtesy of Rosewood Hotel.

@lotusroot518