First Look at Diageo's Special Release 2023: Exotic Fusion (ex-Tequila Lagavulin, ex-Kanosuke Mortlach, ex-Chardonnay Glendullan)
Update: For the next four releases from this series, click here.
The annual Diageo Special Release whisky bottlings are back! This is a long-running series started 20 years ago, and showcases high quality and rare limited edition expressions from Diageo’s Classic Malts distilleries. The average bottle tends to be cask strength and about 10 to 16 years of age, although recent years have seen a bottle or two venerable 20+ year old expressions.
Each year's Special Release sees about 6 to 8 expressions from Diageo's stable of distilleries. So far only information of the first three bottles are available.
After the past two year's fantasy themed releases (see 2021, see 2022), it seems that we have something quite tangible and special indeed for 2023. Based on the first 3 releases, it looks like this year's lineup would have an even greater emphasis on quality of cask finishings, and perhaps finishings that look to take advantage of the amendment to the Scotch Rules by the Scotch Whisky Association in 2019.
Lagavulin 12 Years Old, Don Julio Añejo Tequila Cask finished, 56.4% ABV
Lagavulin is back with yet another agave spirit release after 2021's Islay Jazz Festival bottle. This is likely aged for close to a decade in ex-bourbon casks as Lagavulin's standard practice before spending time in casks that previously held Don Julio Añejo Tequila casks.
Don Julio is one of Mexico's best known tequila distilleries, while their añejo tequila - a tequila that had been aged for about 18 months in oak - is a solid core range expression in the world of aged tequilas, with more sweetness and fruitiness.
Notably, the 2021 ex-mezcal cask release had been well received by whisky lovers. If the apple doesn't fall too far from the tree, this expression could similarly see a layer of herbal notes and mineral austerity in a complex profile. Having the Don Julio name certainly adds some extra hype points to this release for tequila lovers.
Mortlach NAS, ex-Kanosuke Japanese Whisky & ex-Pinot Noir finishing, 58% ABV
It seems undeniable that Kanosuke-mania has really hit Scotland just as we've witnessed UK's first cask being released by the Thompson Bros of Dornoch Distillery.
Now, Kanosuke is a Kagoshima craft whisky distillery started by a 4th-generation aged shochu producer Yoshitsugu Komasa, which in recent years, has earned for itself a cult following that may begin to rival the likes of Japanese craft whisky maestro Chichibu Distillery (read more about Kanosuke here). Notable for its exceptional quality despite being a very young operation, Kanosuke had even attracted an investment from Diageo, which brings us back to this new Mortlach we have before us.
Single malt buffs are likely most curious about this Mortlach, which had been finished in a combination of ex-Kanosuke casks and ex-Pinot Noir casks. Besides whisky, Kanosuke's casks tend to be ex-shochu casks. We frankly have no idea how this would taste, but suffice to say, we are most excited about this release.
The age statement is conspicuously absent from this release, as was the case for Mortlach last year.
Singleton of Glendullan 14 Years Old, ex-Chardonnay de Bourgogne French Oak finishing, 55% ABV
This Glendullan single malt had been finished in French oak casks which previously kept Chardonnay white wine from the Burgundy region, a logical complement to Glendullan's typical house style of being smooth, sweet, fruity and vanilla-ish.
Our Take
Compared to previous year's special releases, it seems that there is much more emphasis on the branding and quality of cask finishings in this year's Special Release, what with the name-dropping of Don Julio and Kanosuke.
Of course, this is just an educated speculation considering there are at least 3 or 4 more expressions to be unveiled in due time. We can't remember the last time we've gotten as intrigued about a NAS Mortlach though, so well-played, Diageo!
Update: For the next four releases from this series, click here.
Kanpai!
88 Bamboo Editorial Team