A serious project is distilling in the Principality of Monaco, one that is said to be a marriage of the best aspects of rum-making between the Mediterranean and the Caribbean.
Driven by a vision to resurrect a cherished tradition of the Principality, a Velier-led groundbreaking project has resulted in "Mother Mesccia", the first product in the revival of the historic 'mesccia' – a practice harking back to the era when cloth-sailed ships roamed the seas.
"Mother Mesccia" is actually the name of the base spirit that will turn into twenty-first century Mesccia - a historic spirit blend of rum mixed with vermouth or marsala that no longer exists. The white rum was first distilled in Haiti and then again in Monaco, using pure juice of Crystalline sugar cane grown in the Grand Cru of Saint-Michel-de-l'Attalaye and an extremely long fermentation with native yeasts. Two distillations - the first in Haiti, and the second in Monaco.
But first, what is Mesccia?
The Principality of Monaco.
During the 17th century, the Principality of Monaco thrived due to the bustling port of Monte Carlo. The port saw a constant flow of exotic goods traveling to and from distant lands across the continent, which naturally, made it a bustling trade hub.
Among these treasures was Caribbean rum, a prized liquid brought to the Mediterranean by Genoese sailors. Their specific purpose in transporting this spirit was to exchange it for the locally abundant citrus fruits, a vital necessity for preventing scurvy, which posed a serious threat to the health of sailors on long voyages.
One of the traditions in Monaco was then to mix the rum with other European spirits, specifically vermouth and Marsala. Genoese sailors called the result of these blends "mesccia" (A Genoese dialect word indicating a mixture or mix). With its exotic nature, the rum-based spirit blend quickly became a vaunted product for those among the Principality.
It became part of Monaco's culture, but as some traditions go, was gradually lost over time until it was almost forgotten. Thankfully, traces of its existence remained in old archives, which allowed its revival in the 1920s. An early attempt then to recreate Mesccia nevertheless failed.
It would be HRH Prince Albert II that proposed to revive this ancient tradition of “mesccia” in 2021. The project's initial ambition was to authentically recreate the ancient "mesccia" by producing rum within the Principality itself.
As such, he turned to Luca Gargano, CEO of Italian spirits giant Velier.
Luca suggested ageing the rum using barrels that have previously contained fortified wine, as opposed to a direct blending of the spirits, as he felt that modern knowledge and preferences could no longer allow for a faithful re-production of the original mesccia, which called for a vermouth - rum mix.
By using ex-fortified wine casks, this would make it possible to stay as true to the recipe as possible!
An ode to the Caribbean origins of the early mesccia, tied in with the desire to use the best possible sugarcane, Luca turned to the rare, non-hybridized variety from Haiti known as Crystalline sugarcane. While challenging to work with due to its hardness and thin stalks, it boasts an exceptional sweetness and aromatic complexity.
Luca Gargano.
However, the long journey any sugarcane or sugarcane syrup would take to Europe would most certainly negatively impact its delicate qualities. To solve this issue, Luca proposed a solution: leveraging the benefits of double distillation.
The initial distillation process would take place in Haiti, close to the source of the premium sugarcane, with the crucial second distillation being carried out in the Principality of Monaco itself.
The plan was approved by the Prince on November 10th, 2021.
The journey of "Mother Mesccia" begins in Saint-Michel-de-l'Attalaye, Haiti, on the land of distillery owner Michel Sajous. Here, he cultivates several hectares of the prized Crystalline sugarcane, specifically the red variety. This particular cane yields an exceptional juice – the very same high-quality raw material that forms the base of his renowned Clairin Sajous rum.
Michel Sajous.
The initial production of "Mother Mesccia" mirrors the early stages of Providence, the esteemed rum produced by Velier in Haiti. Sajous himself oversees the entire process: from the harvesting and pressing of the sugarcane to the careful fermentation of the pure cane juice.
This fermented juice then undergoes a single distillation in a water bath using a 380-liter Mueller batch still.
The first spirit obtained is a semi-finished product with an ABV between 22% and 34%. Stored in drums, it is first sent to Port-au-Prince and then shipped to Monaco-Montecarlo.
The second distillation takes place in a Khote still in Monaco at L’Orangerie / Distillerie de Monaco, the first and only distillery in the Principality founded in 2017. A smaller still located smack in the middle of an urban sprawl, Master Distiller Philip Culazzo oversees the artisanal distilling process.
The first shipment of once-distilled cane spirit was arranged in Haiti in 2022 for five drums of the semi-finished product. This was followed by a second in July 2023 for ten drums and a third in June 2024 for forty drums.
The alcohol by volume (ABV) of these initial distillates naturally fluctuates from year to year due to the changing sugar content within the sugarcane, influenced by seasonal conditions. For instance, the ABV registered at 26% in 2022, followed by 25% in 2023, and most recently, 22.9% in 2024.
A total of 55 drums over three years resulted in 2,698.59 liters of spirit, which once distilled again yielded 2,499.58 liters with an ABV of 47%.
Master Distiller Philip Culazzo.
The cutting of the heads and tails (removal of unwanted portions of the distillate) also takes place in Monaco, which justifies the final product being considered as having been produced in the Principality.
Mother Mesccia is the unaged white rum already made, but plans for ageing are underway. Thus much like the concept of a "mother dough", the white rum will serve as the base for which it will be pulled in different directions, such as being aged in selected ex-vermouth and ex-Marsala barrels for a start in an attempt to recreate mesccia. As Luca emphasizes, this specific aging combination is unprecedented, making it essential to closely monitor the spirit's development and remain adaptable to any necessary adjustments along the way.
There are also alternate, experimental ideas at work, including the use of ex-Neisson rum casks and casks with different wood types.
Kanpai!
88 Bamboo Editorial Team
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