On the nose: Hot, alcohol.

On the palate: Really, hot alcohol and some wood and caramel.

The finish: My god! Did I mention alcohol? I should mention it more.

And quite honestly, this isn’t some theatrics but that is what I took away from my eagerly awaited first sip Velier’s bottled Beenleigh 2015, a 5 Year Old Australian Rum. I was terribly eager to get my hands on it, I really must make that known – I had never tried (much less known) that Australia produced rums. To be fair, Beenleigh Distillery has been around since 1884, apparently Australia’s oldest (licensed) distillery, so I’m pretty confident the feeling is mutual – that is, they don’t know I exist either.

In any case, as I believe (perhaps a fatal flaw here) that most people would not be too familiar with the rum maker from the land down under, I should take it upon myself (uninitiated or unprompted) to give them a brief introduction.

Beenleigh Distillery in Queensland, Australia. (Image Source: Rumporter)

Beenleigh has been around in Queensland since 1884, after having acquired a floating still, nicknamed the “Walrus”, which helped the distillery get their distillation license. Thereafter, the distillery changed hands and went on and off again until more recently, having been acquired by VOK Beverages, the distillery began pushing out its rums again in earnest. 

Up until recently, Beenleigh is managed by Steve Magarry, and from several interviews with Velier and Rumporter, we can gather that the distillery, despite its dotty history, can pretty much be thought of as brand new. Most of their old rum stocks have been lost, their old port still “Old Copper” has been retired (but still remains in the possession), and given their relatively smaller production capabilities, are focused on generating more awareness for their rums, focusing more on a being a craft distillery as a matter of branding (calling themselves “Beenleigh Artisan Distillers”, much less), and building up their rum stocks. So obviously, an endorsement by Velier, is really just what they needed – hence their 2006 and 2015 co-bottlings. Its worked hasn’t it? I’m now actually getting down to writing a piece on them.

Beenleigh currently operates on a combination of column and pot stills. (Image Source: Velier)

In terms of processes, the distillery uses a mix of Column and Pot system. Interestingly, the distillery also uses dunder cycling (bringing forward some of the fermentation material to subsequent distillation runs), made famous by the Jamaican rum makers. Fermentation times also run pretty long, running from anywhere from 4-5 days to 12-14 days depending on the season.

We wrote a brief introduction to Beenleigh Distillery here.

More pertinent to the 2015 expression – and really why my curiosity was piqued by the expression (even over the 2006 expression) is the fact that I believe no other rum (on Earth at least) lays claim to the use of Arid Desert Aging. So that remains something truly unique with this expression.

Interestingly, the label states "Arid/Desert Maturation" which as far as I'm aware, is not featured on any other bottle of rum.

By the distillery’s definition, Arid Desert Aging, which is done at their second distillation site in Renmark, Twenty Third Street Distillery, is best done in the world’s driest continent, where temperatures run high and humidity low. As a result,  the maturation process actually sees ABV go up rather than the typical down.

So going back to why this rum is so damned hot – Steve has let us in on how the distillery prefers aging their rums at a very high proof, which they consider to be a more traditional approach reminiscent of their English Caribbean and Demerara counterparts. This is more so the case for the rums matured in the first site, while those undergoing Arid Desert Aging begin maturing at a significantly lower proof given how the ABV will escalate anyway.

Beenleigh's second maturation site enables the distillery to create a wider spectrum of rum profiles. (Image Source: Velier)

Since the focus today is the 2015 5-Year Old expression of the pair of Velier co-bottlings, I’ll summarise the key differences between the 2006 15-Year Old expression, which is also their oldest stock on hand, and the 2015 5-Year Old expression. The 2006 vintage enjoys tropical aging, was made using the more ester-producing S.Pombe, and was matured at a higher proof, while the 2015 vintage underwent the unique Arid Desert Aging, was made using the more efficient (but less ester producing) cerivisae strain, and was matured at a lower proof, although ABV escalated along the way. In terms of similarities, their combination of Column and Pot Still distillation methods were kept constant across both vintages. So really just the fermentation and maturation process stood out as key differences.

In any case, now that you’re up to speed, let’s get on to trying (again) the 2015 5-Year Old Arid Desert Aging Velier/Beenleigh co-bottling, bottled at 59% ABV. For some context, after the original scintillating tasting experience, I had wondered if I had gotten a bad bottle or maybe something was wrong with me. In shame, I corked it back and revisited it some 3 months later, which precipitated the following re-review.

Beenleigh 5 Year Old 2015, Bottled by La Maison & Velier, 59% ABV - Review

Color: Honey Gold

Lots of caramel, cinnabons, gentle florals of irises and rose petals. (Image Source: The Chunky Chef, Tablespoon, Eden Brothers, Petal x BonBons)

On the nose: Lush dollops of caramel, it has a very rich and almost syrupy texture to its aromas. It’s almost opulent in its thickness. Wafts of baking spices and vanilla are also easily found in the aromas. There are some gentle florals as well, notably irises and rose petals.

Give the nose some time to air, more tropical fruits like 7D mangoes and orchard apples start to show up, banana ice cream and an almost chewy hawthorn note. (Image Source: eBay, Unsplash, Live Eat Learn, OnlineFriday MY)

This really takes its time to open up, like 3 months or something, continued nosing brings out 7D dried mangoes – very distinctive yet gentle notes of the tropical fruit. Waves of ripe orchard apples, peaches and raisins. It actually reminds me of calvados to be honest. Then there are more subtle notes of banana ice cream. There’s also a very interesting note of hawthorn that gives the aromas just the slightest bite and chewiness.

Big, bold, ridiculously accessible flavors - banana flambe, apricots, raspberries, dark cherries, that flicker between fresh fruit and cooked fruity. More cinnamon rolls. (Image Source: Food Network, FruitsBox, Unsplash, Sage Fruit, Cravings Journal)

On the palate: Really bold, big flavors here – lots of warmth (not heat, this time!) It starts off with loads of fruit – first the tropical fruit basket of bananas (specifically banana flambe), mangoes, apricots, and then comes the stone and orchard fruits of raspberries, dark cherries, red grapes and apples. It somehow toes the subliminal line between fresh fruit and cooked fruit. Lots of caramel, honey and baking spices.

Perfumery, aromatic, potpourri, light herbaceous mint jelly, and touches of milk chocolate. (Image Source: Yahoo News Singapore, Women's Weekly Food, Food Network)

The palate remains incredibly perfumery with the same florals of irises and roses; it almost feels like a potpourri. Hints of mint jelly and some touches of milk chocolate.

Clean, crisp, more baking spices, espresso grinds, and a bittersweet kara, or sandalwood. (Image Source: Healthline, Craft Coffee Guru, Cosmetic Design Asia)

The finish: Clean, crisp, almost a “what-the-hell” just happened sensation, but the uber appealing flavors inspire more sips. Notes of cinnamon, espresso grinds, vanilla pods and a very curious note of bittersweet sandalwood.

My Thoughts 

I find it incredible how much it has opened up since I left it to sit for a couple of months. I don’t know if perhaps had I just left it to air more on my first try, perhaps it would have done the job just as well – but hey, I’m just reporting my experience.

Despite having waited quite a long time only to find it remarkably different, I’d say this was every bit worth the wait. I wonder if somehow the desert aging was so intense it wound up the rum’s esters so tightly that it takes some time for it to unravel and open up. Complete pseudoscience, but that’s my speculation. 

Notice the spelling error?

Upon the second try, simply wonderful richness with great desirable flavors of florals, fruits, honey, baking spices, it actually reminds me of a much more lively and vibrant Demerara. The warmth and these accessible flavors make this rum far too easy to drink (now, at least). And yet, for me, what took it to a whole other level is the amount of complexity between the notes – they don’t rush at you all at once, they unravel layer upon layer, almost like a blooming flower. What’s more is the phenomenal texture – it’s mid to heavy bodied, syrupy and silky, with an almost sort of bittersweet chewiness (that I referred to as Hawthorn) to it that balances out the mostly sweet, warm flavors.

This rum is truly elegant and well-balanced, with great flavors from aromas to taste and finish, and a superb cadence where it reveals itself in layers. It packs a whole lot of warmth as well.

Just perhaps give it three months to open up. I jest, but really, patience is key here. Well worth it!

Kanpai!

@111hotpot

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