Not too long ago, Neisson released a rhum agricole that was something of a quiet peculiarity - the Red Dragon. Initially, I wasn’t sure what to make of it, or to expect. It didn’t appear to sit nicely within the Armada nor the Zetwal range, though it was noticeably housed in a similar crystal decanter as the Zetwals. But as I would eventually learn, the Red Dragon was conceived as a standalone or celebratory bottling, one that sought to demonstrate Neisson’s craftsmanship and savoir-faire, and importantly celebrate Alex Bobi’s 25th year with Neisson as its Cellar Master.
It clearly wasn’t enough for the Red Dragon to be just a simplistic single cask rhum maturing in one of Neisson’s ageing houses. Far from that, the Red Dragon was meant to be a masterpiece in the art of blending, one derived from some of Neisson’s most hallowed liquids put together into a single blend at 52.8% ABV. The blend was built on the base of an extremely rare single cask - Cask no. 282 of the Kongo X Neisson Mizunara Project, which makes 70% of the blend. This rhum was distilled on 9 July 2015 and aged in either an ex-bourbon or ex-cognac cask, and an additional finishing in Mizunara casks for an additional two years. These were the details Gregory Vernant very kindly shared with me as we tasted the Mizunara Project rhums together in 2024, though two years have passed since, and I haven’t had the chance to ask if the rhums were left in inert tanks to rest, or had spent an additional two years in the Mizunara casks. The remaining 30% was drawn from Neisson’s Zetwal series, the Vega to be exact, which is a vatting of the 2000, 2005, 2012, and 2013 vintages reserved for the Armada series, with an additional three years rested together in wooden vats.
Much like its namesake, the nose initially presented itself as a fiery and intense dram, reminiscent of the alligator char found on the staves of the casks that once held this precious spirit, accompanied by the robust notes of toasted oak and vanilla. Over time, however, the nose transformed, becoming considerably soft, warm, even elegant, with a slight oiliness. Accompanying it was a blend of the intensity of chinotto oranges alongside the bright, effervescent notes of Fanta Orange, and clarified red apple juice. And those layers of complexity continued to unravel still, with glimpses of sweet hibiscus florals, cherry syrup, freshly roasted ground nuts, and subtle hints of eucalyptus woven throughout.
The palate unveiled far more character than the nose might have suggested, showcasing the myriad attributes of an aged rhum agricole. It possessed a thick, oily texture, with subtle notes of preserved orange peels and hazelnut praline, sprinkled with toasted almond bits, Fanta orange again, and a salted caramel drizzle that bore faint traces of becoming slightly burnt. Most intriguing was that little flash of iodine, and even that bit of rancio, right through the middle of the palate, a trait I have occasionally encountered in molasses-based rums, yet never before in a rhum agricole. The finish was incredibly long, and where its age and complexity truly shone, as those woody notes gradually grew more intense, imparting a delightful tannic structure to the rhum, holding all its flavours together, without ever overshadowing the other qualities that preceded it. As the finish stretched on, it was here that the silky, floral notes of hibiscus and rosewater came through, likely derived from the Mizunara Cask 282, and with a soft, lush grassiness that rounded off what was an exquisitely blended rhum agricole.
The spirits world today has become terribly obsessed with single cask liquids, often conflating it with prestige and quality. Yet the Red Dragon is the perfect antithesis to that perception, displaying in full Neisson’s mastery of the art of blending and perhaps even its primacy. It is bottled in extremely limited numbers, though, owing to the scarcity of these liquids, numbering at only a hundred crystal decanters. Thank you, @the_rum_cartel and Gregory, for the immense privilege to have tasted this spectacular rhum agricole.
Your occasional rum addict!
