If there's one product that we didn't think could relocate, it's Japanese sake. In fact, in its homeland, the Japanese rice wine that we know isn't even called sake – it's called nihonshu (or Japanese wine). And yet, two young Japanese men, enamoured with France and its culture, set out to relocate nihonshuto France. The mission was to change sake's perception worldwide as an alternative to wine, starting with the heart of gastronomy itself.

Wakaze, the audacious French sake brewery, was the brainchild of Takuma Inagawa – a former BCG consultant – and Shoya Imai, a young master brewer from a lineage of sake brewers. Takuma, while an international student at France’s prestigious École Centrale in Paris, fell in love with the country. His passion for France combined with a desire to bridge cultures through a shared love of wine and spirit, ignited the spark that would become Wakaze.

With the support of a community of believers and a crowdfunding campaign, Takuma brought his vision to lifeand roped Shoya in. Together, they established the first sake brewery in Paris, with the goal of sharing the nuances and delights of sake with Parisians and, hopefully with the rest of Europe.

Of course, Wakaze isn’t the first to bring sakes to France. As early as 2015, the first Maison du Saké was opened in Paris. While the renowned Joël Robuchon had opened a Paris sake bar in 2018, shortly before his passing. Both places offer the best of Japanese sake for tasting. But the Wakaze project is very different. It aims to offer 100% made-in-France sakes, brewed in the country using rice grown locally, and perhaps even aged in French oak barrels.

Wakaze sought to create a sake that resonated with European tastes, while still honouring its Japanese heritage. Flavours were localised for the French palate, giving it a dryness and crispness that allowed for pairing with mild cheeses just as one would with a white wine. Rice is sourced from the sun-drenched plains of the coastal Camargue region of southern France, fermentation driven by wine yeast, and Île-de-France water drawn from the mineral-rich sources in Paris.

It was a challenge to make sake from only French ingredients. Parisian water is notably over four times 'harder' than that typically used in Japan. This high minerality complicated the sake brewing process by making fermentation much wilder and less predictable. Wakaze embraced the challenge, recognising that this very minerality could impart a unique complexity to their sakes.

The journey to craft sake from French rice and wine yeast was also not without its hurdles and the team encountered numerous setbacks, with multiple failed batches. Undeterred, they embarked on a meticulous research process, delving into Edo-period literature on sake brewing and seeking counsel from seasoned wine experts in Burgundy.

But French terroir and tastes weren't their sole objectives. Wakaze was also driven by a desire to make sake more accessible to the French public. Brewing in France using only French ingredients helped to eliminate import duties and intermediaries associated with shipping raw materials from Japan. This allowed them to offer their high-quality sakes at a remarkably affordable price of less than 20 euros per bottle, democratising an ‘exotic’ drink that would otherwise be considered too exorbitant an experience by the average French wine drinker.

While their primary focus has been on crafting sakes tailored to the European market, Wakaze recently expanded their horizons with a made-in-Japan edition of their flagship brew, the Wakaze Classic. This special edition, created for the Japan and Asian markets, adheres to the same recipe as its French counterpart, except that it's made using local Japanese ingredients.

It's also worth noting Wakaze, as a French sake producer, isn't bound by the strict regulations governing nihonshu or made-in-Japan sakes. This allows Wakaze's portfolio to extend beyond traditional sake, with a range of barrel-aged offerings that push the boundaries of what makes sake still sake. Some of these sakes fermented in oak barrels previously used for ageing red wine, whisky, and brandy, and barrel aged, or infused with French lemons, herbs, and spices. These experiments help broaden the appeal of Wakaze’s sake for the European palate and also opens up a world of possibilities for pairing with French cuisine.

We had the opportunity to sample nearly the entire Wakaze range at Sake Matsuri Singapore 2024 – one of Singapore's largest sake festival organisers (you're into sakes do check them out as I hear they'll be back in November!). We’ll start with the duo of Wakaze Classic that have been made in France and Japan, before moving on to the special ranges.

Wakaze The Classic Junmai France vs Japan – Review

First up, we taste the flagship Wakaze Classic. This range was first brewed in France and made from local Camargue rice, white koji and L’elégante wine yeast with a 90% rice polishing ratio. As mentioned earlier, this sake is also specially made to appeal to the local French palate, particularly in the way it could be paired with various lighter French dishes such as raw or grilled fish and spring vegetables such as asparagus or artichokes.

Later on, the company began brewing a Wakaze Classic right in Japan. This is made with a similar recipe to the French Wakaze Classic, but uses 90% polished Tsuya-hime rice from Yamagata and standard white koji.

Let’s give them a taste.

Tasting: Wakaze Classic (Made-in-France) 13% ABV

Nose: Bright and inviting. A clean, light aroma of Greek yoghurt mingles with a subtle clay-like earthiness, reminiscent of a freshly tilled field.

Palate: Clean and refined. A light basic sweetness, akin to rice pudding, takes centre stage, followed by a gentle dryness that gradually builds. It’s got the faintest whisper of umami and earthiness from the rice that add a bit of depth.

Finish: Short and dry, punctuated by a growing citrusy acidity that cleanses the palate. A lingering touch of minerality likely from the mineral-rich Parisian water used in its production.

My Thoughts:

This is a very refined and approachable and something that would be easily enjoyed by new drinkers. Its remarkably clean taste reminds me of a Honjozo even though this is a Junmai. It’s got that subtle Parisian water minerality which adds a layer of complexity without straying into the funkier earthiness or heavy umami territory often associated with traditional sake.

This reminds me of a crisp Pinot Grigio. It's a sake that would undoubtedly appeal to wine drinkers and would pair well with lighter French dishes as expected.

Tasting: Wakaze Classic (Made-in-Japan) 13% ABV

Nose: Immediately presents a richer nose than its French counterpart. A gentle sweetness intertwines with a savoury umami note, reminiscent of earthy mushrooms and creamy lactic undertones.

Palate: On the palate it reveals a thicker and fuller body, with a pronounced honeyed sweetness. Light notes of melons and other luscious fruits.

Finish: Pretty clean still, but departs from the strong dryness of the French version, instead offering a lingering sweetness reminiscent of fruit syrup.

My Thoughts:

Also very clean, refined but as expected, this version does indeed lean towards a more rustic sake profile, showcasing the earthy and mushroom notes often found in traditional sakes. Compared to the French version, the sweetness is more pronounced, and the overall experience is richer and less dry.

Yet, even with these traditional elements, the sake retains a remarkable cleanliness and a gentle sweetness that prevents it from becoming overwhelming. It's clear that Wakaze's commitment to quality and balance transcends borders.

This is a sake that would undoubtedly appeal to those ore familiar with the world of sake. While the French version may be a gateway for newcomers, this Japanese rendition caters to those seeking a more traditional nihonshu experience.

Wakaze Yuzu Sake, 13% ABV – Review

Next up, we have the Wakaze Yuzu. This is brewed in France similarly to the Wakaze Junmai, but infused with yuzu fruits, mint leaves, lemons and verbena flowers.

Tasting Notes

Nose: A burst of vibrant citrus. The lemony perfume is immediately striking, followed by a cooling menthol undertone and a luscious floral bouquet reminiscent of a spring garden. Hints of playful hard candy sweetness and a delicate touch of sea salt, then this unmistakable aroma of yuzu jelly.

Palate: But on the palate, the sake is surprisingly dry, with a pronounced salinity that conjures images of a salted lemon soda. The body is lighter than anticipated, allowing the intense sourness to dominate the initial sip.

Finish: A clean yeastiness, with a twist of a subtle rice funk emerging as the flavours evolve.

My Thoughts:

While the nose of this sake is undeniably captivating and memorable, the palate falls a bit short for my taste. The intense sourness and delicate body leave me longing for a richer, more substantial mouthfeel. The flavours, while pleasant, lack the depth and complexity I typically seek in a sake.

This should be well-suited for those who prefer a lighter, more quaffable style.

Wakaze x Thierry Marx Set: Iconique, Magnifique, Unique – Review

Next up is a series that Wakaze is certainly quite proud of. Takuma Inagawa collaborated with Michelin-starred chef Thierry Marx renowned for his incorporation of Japanese ingredients and cooking techniques into his dishes. The collaboration with Marx led to this set of 3 premium sakes specially designed to pair with a range of Asian, and European dishes, as well as desserts.

The Iconique is made closer to Japanese brewing methods and suitable for pairing with lighter Asian cuisine. The Magnifique highlights aromas from the white koji used, which adds a lively citric note to the sake, making this a suitable sake for pairing with seafood. The Unique is made richer and aged for about 3 months in oak barrels, giving it a rich woody sweetness that should go well with dried fruits, buts and honey based desserts.

Let’s give them a try.

Tasting: Wakaze Iconique, 13% ABV

Nose: Opens with a fresh and inviting dryness with delicate notes of yuzu and grapefruit mingling with a subtle yeastiness and a hint of alcohol.

Palate: Remarkably dry and not terribly complex. Lots of acidity with just a whisper of sweetness to balance the pronounced minerality. There’s just touch of brine that adds to the dimensions.

Finish: Strikingly chalky, it’s got a distinct minerality that evokes the crispness of Evian water with the zing from squeeze of lime that gently lingers on the tongue.

My Thoughts:

This one’s a study in subtlety and restraint. Its mild and delicate but pronounced dryness, making it a pretty ideal choice for those accustomed to white wine and for pairing with food. It’s got that delicate fruit and mineral notes to create a harmonious balance, while the clean finish leaves the palate refreshed and ready for the next bite.

While it isn’t the most adventurous sake on the planet, you can see how it’s perfect for the dining table. It effortlessly pairs with lighter Asian and French dishes – the agedashi tofu, summer vegetables, olive oil and mild cheeses – without overpowering them.

Tasting: Wakaze Magnifique, 13% ABV

Nose: Light and inviting. A delicate sweetness reminiscent of tinned lychees intertwines with a bright, lightly acidic aroma.

Palate: Surprisingly thick texture in contrast to its delicate nose. There’s a medley of sweet citrus fruits—lemons, grapefruits, and pomelos – the acidity tempered by the gentle sweetness of tinned fruit syrup.

Finish: Rather intruging, with a subtle peppery spice, followed by a creamy yogurt note that softens the edges along with a fading touch of savoury honey with a hint of umami from teriyaki glazed chicken.

My Thoughts:

This one’s a delightful surprise! A crisp, vibrant and refreshing drink that would pair beautifully with seafood. The thickness and complexity of it also makes it pretty versatile a drink that can be enjoyed on its own or paired with dishes.

Tasting: Wakaze Unique, 13% ABV

Nose: Earthy, savoury and full of depth. Opens with a light mushroomy aroma that intertwines with a savoury undertone, while notes of sea coconut and the tropical sweetness of duku langsat berries add a touch of the tropics.

There’s a pronounced brininess, reminiscent of a coastal breeze complimented by vanilla and woody tones before turning slightly bucolic. A subtle barnyard funkiness and a hint of toasted barley round out the aroma.

Palate: Medium-bodied, with a light honeyed sweetness that evokes the comforting warmth of a familiar dessert. Notes of tinned fruit syrup and yeastiness intertwine with the flavour of dried lychees and red dates - the overall profile reminds me of a lightly herbal Chinese dessert soup.

Finish: Off-dry, leaving a clean, lingering sweetness that echoes the honeyed notes from the palate.

My Thoughts:

This one’s both rich and subtle at once. It definitely showcases a transformation under barrel aging, and yet the complexity and layers are so subtle you may not notice unless you’re looking for them. The interplay of earthy, sweet, and savoury notes is also very well balanced.

I like that it’s really sweet in aroma but not overwhelmingly so on the tongue. This makes it a brilliant pairing with sweet treats like honey cake, dark chocolate that it was designed to compliment. Certainly the most intriguing and enjoyable sake from Wakaze for me!

Wakaze Barrel Aged Sake Collection: Red Wine, Whisky, Brandy – Review

We now move on to the next batch of unusual barrel-aged sakes from Wakaze. After brewing, these sakes are aged for at least 2 months in Pinot Noir barrels sourced from the renowned Burgundy producer Domaine Jacques Prieur, whisky barrels or Cognac Brandy barrels.

The Red Wine and Whisky editions were brewed the same way as the Wakaze Classic, while the Brandy edition was brewed as a kijoshu (sweet sake) before barrel aging.

Tasting: Wakaze Red Wine Barrel Junmai, 14% ABV

Appearance: Syrupy texture with a pale yellow Riesling wine colour.

Nose: A sweet-savoury teriyaki aroma takes centre stage, followed by a gentle honeyed sweetness. There’s a subtle barnyard funk along with earthy depths of roasted chestnut and figs.

Palate: Somewhat more straightforward. It’s got a medium body and a delicate honeyed sweetness, followed by a light twang of raspberries.

Finish: Tons of contrasting flavours. The initial teriyaki savouriness lingers, followed by a surprising doughy sourness reminiscent of a freshly baked loaf. This culminates in a lingering earthy funkiness of a soft, barnyard cheese.

My Thoughts:

Really interesting one – this doesn’t even taste much like sake! It’s got this distinctive nutty and oxidative character, reminiscent of an oxidative wine, like a Jura Chardonnay, Orange wine or Fino Sherry, with its layers of nutty, earthy, and oxidative notes.

The interplay of sweet, savoury, and funky elements is pretty challenging but really memorable too. This may not be for everyone, but those who appreciate bold and complex oxidative wine flavours will find much to love here.

Tasting: Wakaze Whisky Barrel, 13% ABV

Appearance: White wine.

Nose: Rich with the warmth of apricots and plums. A subtle mushroomy earthiness intertwines with the sweetness of thick honey, along with familiar notes of toasted nuts.

Palate: Undeniably woody and quite complex. Its got a syrupy texture coating the tongue with a luxurious sweetness. Honeyed notes intertwine with vanilla and warm baking spices, while an unusually prominent mushroominess reappears.

Finish: Remarkably long, leaving a lingering sweetness akin to tinned peaches.

My Thoughts:

Quite a bit of depth and complexity, though compared to the earlier Wakaze Red Wine Barrel, the Whisky Barrel presents a slightly more conventional and less funky profile. The whisky barrel influence is quite evident in the woody notes and subtle spices, while the overall palate seems a bit sweeter and less complex.

This makes for a more approachable and perhaps less polarising sake, while still retaining a subtle distinctive woodiness. That said, I’d personally have liked it a bit more if more fruitiness and apricot notes came through on the palate.

Tasting: Wakaze Brandy Barrel, 13% ABV

Appearance: Riesling wine.

Nose: Inviting with lots of warmth and depth. Opens with a bright honeyed sweetness, a subtle funkiness intertwined with savoury soy sauce, and a rich undercurrent of caramel and dried fruits.

Palate: Full-bodied and decadent. It’s undeniably rich and sweet, with a remarkable depth of flavour. Opens with sweet clarified apple juice, with honeyed notes and light woodiness hinting at the brandy barrel influence. The unctuous texture coats the tongue while a gentle rice pudding sweetness emerges while intertwined maltose and wood spice, with a subtle herbal note akin that reminds me of sea coconut dessert soup.

Finish: Clean and mellow with a subtly sweet and herbal character.

My Thoughts:

This is the sweetest and fullest-bodied sake in the entire Wakaze range. With both influences of the French brandy cask and the rich, sweet characteristics of a kijoshu sake, this could easily be mistaken for a dessert in its own right. Once again, great inteplay between the sweet, savoury and herbal notes that make the sake quite indulgent but not overly cloying either.

Wakaze Sakekasu Collection Umeshu, 13% ABV

We round this up with the final bottle we tasted that isn’t exactly a sake. This is a umeshu made from shochu liquor distilled from the sake lees (brewing residue) derived from brewing Wakaze’s sakes. The liquor is then macerated with green “Golden Japan” plums grown in Moissac, a quiet town in the south of France.

Tasting Notes 

Colour: Light white wine.

Nose: Just a whirlwind of scents – there’s a lot going on. It’s bright, it’s bold and unexpectedly herbaceous and minty – like a menthol cigarette without the smoke. Opens with an intriguing mix of herbaceous notes and a whiff of steamed Korean rice cakes (tteokbokki), then transitioning into something reminiscent of a minty puff of menthol cigarettes and sweet vanilla fondant.

Palate: Sweetness is ramped up on the palate. Imagine a spoonful of sweet herbal jelly, chilled cheng tng with longans, but without the herbal bitterness.

Finish: Here’s where it truly shines. Soft ume fruits are balanced against a sweet herbal backdrop. It's a little like brown sugar syrup with a touch of aiyu jelly. The sweetness and acidity come through, but it's gentle and rounded.

My Thoughts:

Overall, this umeshu isn’t as sweet as the vast majority of commercial Japanese umeshus we’d come across in the grocery store, which I honestly didn't mind as I personally find most umeshus too cloyingly sweet to be drunk straight.

I reckon this is a more balanced umeshu tailored to suit the French palate – neither too syrupy nor to drying, and as far as umeshus go, that’s really right up my alley. This is made for a palate that prefers more balance and refreshment.

Even though it's sweet and fruity, it remains quite refreshing, so you can easily enjoy an entire glass on its own. If you’re one of those who find typical umeshu too sweet, you should definitely give this a try.

Final Thoughts

Tasting through Wakaze's lineup was quite a revelation. Their "Classic" sakes, with their refined simplicity, are clearly designed as a gateway for those unfamiliar with the nuances of traditional sake. It's a clever approach, especially in Europe where wine still reigns supreme. Yet, what's most intriguing is how Wakaze, unshackled by Japan's traditional sake regulations, is able to fearlessly experiment with barrel-aging and infusions to sake.

This opportunity to push boundaries is where the magic truly happens. The Red Wine Barrel Junmai, with its oxidative notes reminiscent of a Jura Chardonnay, is a prime example of this boldness. It's a sake that challenges expectations and sparks curiosity. While not every experiment is a home run, the sheer audacity and great fun of exploring flavours like the yuzu-infused "Yuzu Sake" and the complex "Whisky Barrel" adds a lot of creativity and life to Wakaze range.

Wakaze's journey is still unfolding, and there's no doubt they have a way to go before achieving their ambitious goal of bringing sake to every European table. But their current offerings are a testament to their potential.

If you’re curious about French-made sake, Wakaze offers a solid and affordable starting point. I'm also eager to see how their story evolves and what unique flavours they'll unveil next.

@CharsiuCharlie