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Sake Reviews

Shinbun no Sake Daiginjo, Shinsyu Meijyo Brewery, Nagano Prefecture

 

One of the many interesting curiosities from the sake world is the existence of Shinbun no Sake or "Newspaper Sake" - that is sake that is presented in a newspaper packaging encasing the sake bottle.

This isn't unique to any one brewery nor do these breweries package all their sakes exclusively in this manner, but it is certainly a sight that jumps out at you when you peruse a sake shelf.

These Newspaper Sake's, as they are affectionately known, are typically seasonal and are wrapped and sold in the local newspaper that happens to be printed during the bottling of the sake. That's cute considering each bottle comes with a variation in section of the newspaper used or with newspapers of different dates - each batch is therefore different!

 

A curiosity of the sake world.

 

So why do these breweries do it? Well, reasons abound. Pragmatically, this is to shield sake from UV rays that may cause oxidation that could spoil the taste of the sake. Sakes that enjoy such treatment are typically produced and bottled in winter and tend to be of softer, fresher and gentler taste profiles and as such are more sensitive, typically made in shorter production cycles and are bottled unpasteurised.

Then there's also the marketing aspect - it catches the eye; it's cute, after all that's why I felt compelled to pick up a bottle and review it. They also typically signify a seasonal release of a specific sake expression produced by a brewery - it's a get-it-while-you-can kind of identifier, and perhaps poetically like the newspaper it comes adorned in, it changes with the season, no two batches the same. Ephemeral so to speak.

 

It's fun to see what was happening locally at the time the sake was made.

 

Lastly, there's also the cost reason - this saves the brewery on fancy labelling (you'd be surprised to know that paper costs are one of the major cost drivers for a brewery). As these sakes are made in shorter production cycles and seasonally, they aren't "branded" sakes so to speak, they're made when the brewery has spare capacity and so they aren't produced to the same quality benchmarks - that's not to say they aren't good, mind you!

Think of them like the "Reserve"s, the "Select"s, the so-and-so's "Choice" of what-have-you drink categories. Brewery's would typically have a core brand and then produce these Newspaper Sakes on the side.

 

It's a no frills sake that is cute and gets to the point.

 

As such they don't enjoy as great pricing power, which again plays into why costs need to be kept low, for it to be worth selling. Just hold off on the brand names and marketing hoopla.

Their shortened production cycles also means that they are in a way fresher, more raw, or uncut, and as such don't keep as well. Which is again why a newspaper-clad exterior does the job. They're designed to be consumed soon after bottling and enjoyed as table sake during meals.

They make for good conversation starters I'll give it that.

They're not entirely rare but they are fairly uncommon, so do keep a lookout for them and if you see one, grab it and surprise your friends.

 

 

In any case, today's Shinbun no Sake, which is just a generic term for sake wrapped in newspaper not specific to any brewery, comes from the Shinsyu Meijyo Brewery in the Nagano Prefecture.

The brewery is better known for its Takizawa branded sake's and as mentioned, produces these Newspaper Sake's as a seasonal offering from early February to mid-March. The brewery mentions that its sake's are to be paired with the seasonal produce and foods of the four seasons. 

 

The brewery's more well-known Takizawa brand sake. (Image Source: @shinmeikikuzakari)

 

It gets its Nagano Hitogokoti rice from local rice farmers who produce specifically for the brewery's use in sake's, adhering to their specifications, therefore allowing these farmers to get a slightly better margin on their produce.

 

Rice terraces in Nagano. (Image Source: The Gate)

 

The water sourced by the brewery comes from the Hoshi Furu Sato which produces ultrasoft water that is filtered across an obsidian bedrock. (Image Source: ShinMei-Net)

  

Also, the brewery gets its water from nearby Hoshi Furu Sato, which produces ultrasoft high quality water, but perhaps more interestingly, flows over an obsidian bedrock that filters the water before it is used for the sake. The area, called Kirigamine, is home to the largest obsidian source in Honshu, with even obsidian stone tools unearthed from ancient times, now stored in a nearby museum. In any case, the filtering of the water through obsidian (also known as Dragon Glass) adds a unique minerality to the sake.

 

This Daiginjo sake uses a 39% rice polishing ratio and the sake is bottled at 15% ABV.

Let's give it a go!

 

Shinbun no Sake Daiginjo, Shinsyu Meijyo Brewery, Nagano Prefecture - Review

Color: Clear

Aroma: Bright, tart fruits - green grapes, nashi pears, green apples, all mixed up in some unsweetened yogurt. More secondary notes of banana hard candy, slightly confectionary and estery, alongside some wintermelon and light white florals. Crisp with a slight acidity.

Taste: Richer, silkier, smooth. Creamier notes of custard apple, soursop and tangy, lightly sweet and sour taste of langsat or pomelo. A light leafiness as well of fresh vine leaves. Steamed rice, adds to the umami richness.

Finish: Clean, light residue of umami notes and fleshy "translucent" musky funk of longans.

  

My Thoughts

My Rating

 🍞

How is this not a staple workhorse sake? It's easy to drink, flavorful but gentle, with a fun story and an interesting backstory. If you didn't know about this, now you do. What are you waiting for?

 

This is simultaneously flavorful but light which makes a good pairing for dishes like sashimi or other delicately flavored foods that you don't want to risk overwhelming. It's a great and affordable table sake with a fun story and is sure to pique your dinner companion's interest. Easy to drink with gentle flavors, it's hard to not make this a staple.

 

Kanpai!

 

@111hotpot