2024 has been quite the year for sake made by Singaporeans. Not only have we seen the first Singaporean brewery emerge, but we've also witnessed the rise of more Singaporean sake experts bottling their own sakes or making their professional mark on the international stage. The burgeoning scene this year is well exemplified by sake expert Adrian Goh who also runs sake retailer InterRice Asia, who has released a personally-brewed sake bottling “The Beginning” in collaboration with the renowned Obata Shuzo and Gakkogura Brewery.

Local sake lovers would recognise Adrian as a prominent nihonshu educator, instantly recognisable by his enthusiasm and perpetual warm grin that reaches the crinkles in his eyes. He’s been a familiar face leading sake pairing dinners in restaurants across town and blends his deep knowledge of sakes with a personable and engaging delivery style. With his work at InterRice, the sake company he runs, he has been credited for promoting sake culture in Singapore and in the region. More importantly, his company represents several renowned names in Japan's artisanal brewing scene, including Dewazakura, known for their elegant ginjo sakes; Senkin, famed for their modern interpretations of classic styles; Manotsuru, with their focus on terroir-driven Niigata sake; and Kikuisami, the brewers of the innovative "36 Guardians" series.

This year, Adrian also became the first Singaporean to be awarded the prestigious title of Sake Samurai. Bestowed by the Japan Sake Brewing Youth Council, the Sake Samurai title is a title given to individuals who have made significant contributions to the promotion and education of sake outside Japan. Only 3-5 individuals are selected by the Council each year to receive this title, making this all the more a remarkable feat! And with "The Beginning," Adrian has clearly levelled up, adding "sake brewer" to his already impressive resume in the same year.

The historic Obata Shuzo opened its second local brewery and named it Gakkogura which literally translates to "school brewery".

Now, “The Beginning” was brewed in Niigata prefecture’s Gakkogura Brewery. Nestled on Sado Island in Niigata prefecture, Gakkogura isn't your typical sake brewery. It's actually the second brewery established by the renowned craft brewery Obata Shuzo which was founded back in 1892 on Sado Island. With Gakkogura, they've taken on a unique mission: to preserve and revitalise Sado Island's rich sake heritage, highlight the unique microclimate, waters and terroir of the island while safeguarding the island’s sake traditions for future generations.

Gakkogura has also become something of a training ground for sake professionals. It provides advanced sake brewing programmes that attract brewers and industry experts from around the globe, eager to hone their skills and delve deeper into the art.

Thanks to Adrian’s long relationship with Obata Shuzo, he was given the opportunity to brew a personal batch of sake at Gakkogura. Sake-making at Gakkogura Brewery relies heavily on manual processes and eschews automation. According to Adrian, the hands-on approach was labour-intensive and incredibly taxing, but provided an unparalleled learning experience and meticulous control over every step of the brewing process.

The result of Adrian's time at Gakkogura? A special Junmai Daiginjo Kimoto Henpeimai-style sake. For his first foray into sake brewing, Adrian decided to push the envelope a little, opting for Koshitanrei rice, a little-known rice strain that is actually a hybrid of the popular Yamadanishiki and Gohyakumangoku strains. Koshitanrei rice was first developed in Niigata prefecture, and is known for its large grain size and high starch content, making it well-suited for producing clean and refined sakes of the daiginjo grade.

Adrian also opted to use the ancient kimoto method for his brew. Unlike modern methods that use commercially prepared lactic acid to prepare the brewing starter, kimoto relies on introducing airborne microbes and yeasts to naturally produce natural lactic acid. The process also requires workers to work laboriously to mix rice, water and koji to break down the starch and encourage microbial activity. While more challenging to manage and effortful, this traditional method often yields sake with bolder and more complex sakes with more memorable character.

(Image Source: Journal of the Brewing Society of Japan 88-3)

And to further refine this sake, Adrian chose the henpei method of rice polishing. While most breweries polish rice into a spherical shape, henpei results in an elliptical grain that preserves the optimal parts of the rice kernel for brewing while effectively removing the outer layers that impart undesirable flavours. Another surprising benefit of henpei is that it also reduces wastage of rice and is therefore arguably a more sustainable method.

Luckily for us, the year-end Sake Matsuri 2024 provided the perfect opportunity to have a taste of Adrian’s sake and share our thoughts.

TAOS Episode 1 “The Beginning” Junmai Daiginjo Kimoto Henpeimai Sake, 16% ABV – Review

40% rice polishing ratio, Koshitanrei rice, Gakkogura Brewery & Obata Shuzo

Tasting Notes

Nose: Opens very delicate and fruity initially with blend of fleshy white fruits, mangosteen and a subtle musk fruit note. A distinct sweet marzipan note emerges with the nutty aroma of crushed almonds, and then a raw, rustic earthy rice quality plus a savoury, umami character that brings to mind porcini mushrooms and Camembert cheese.

Palate: Remarkably clean and light-bodied, yet remarkably flavourful on the palate. Rich fruitiness unfolds, showcasing bright notes of Asian peaches and custard apples with the clear sweetness of pasteurised honey. Towards the mid palate, there’s a subtle lactic character and milk sugars that add creaminess.

Finish: The finish is defined by a clean dry karakuchi note throughout, a delicate note of white floral tea, a lingering woodsy hint of sandalwood and the return of that pleasingly rustic, earthy rice aroma.

My Thoughts:

Adrian's sake really stands out! It faithfully captures all those classic elements of a crowd-favourite daiginjo – clean, fruity, refined, incredibly easy to drink but also offering a layer of nuance and complexity for those who know to look for it on the nose and on the palate.

I appreciate the use of Koshitanrei rice which does create a lovely fruity base without the overt sweetness often associated with Yamadanishiki. Those rustic rice notes and sweet nutty marzipan also add a distinct character that makes for a very memorable sake. It seems that Adrian and the folks at Gakkogura have put a lot of throught into crafting something pretty unique!

Anyways, this is a limited edition bottling which I was told there are only around 200-300 bottles of this available. If you're intrigued, you might want to snap one up quickly from InterRice's official website!

@CharsiuCharlie