While the brewery has a history that spans well over 150 years, it is perhaps best known outside Japan for its most recent ultra-premium sakes that push the boundaries of what’s possible in the world of sake brewing. Its most impressive and controversial product is probably the Reikyo "Absolute 0,” a sake made from rice polished down to only 0.85% of its grain.

But Niizawa's story doesn't begin and end with this record-breaking sake. It’s a tale of innovation, reinvention and a relentless pursuit of perfection by Iwao Niizawa, the fifth-generation owner who took over the faltering brewery as a young man.

The brewery has always been a family-run and family-owned enterprise, weathering the storms of time and economic fluctuations. However, it began to really struggle in the 1990s in the face of falling demand for sake. When the young Iwao Niizawa returned from Tokyo with a brewing sciences degree and a wealth of new ideas, he found the brewery on teetering on the brink of bankruptcy. The table sake (futsushu) it produced brought in very little profit and could not compete with the large volume of high quality “cheap sakes” made by the largest sake brewers. The brewery’s situation grew so dire that Iwao’s father, the then-owner, contemplated closing the brewery's doors forever. Iwao convinced his father to carry on the brewery for just a bit longer. His experiences in Tokyo had given him a few ideas and Iwao felt that he should give his family legacy a shot at reinvention.

Now, during Iwao’s time studying in Tokyo, he had immersed himself in the city's vibrant culinary scene, frequenting top bars and restaurants. It was during these gastronomic adventures that he noticed a recurring theme: there that he discovered a disconnect between the world of premium sake and the preferences of chefs and diners. Speaking to chef after chef, Iwao realized that although they enjoy the rich and fragrant qualities of high-end ginjo sake, such sakes were often too thick or sweet to be paired with delicate Japanese food. Diners would not drink more than a glass of such sakes.

This insight sparked an idea in Iwao's mind. The market was saturated with premium sakes that prioritized richness and sweetness over balance and versatility. What if Niizawa Brewery could make a high-end sake that could satisfy connoisseurs with its complexity, but is also light and dry enough to pair beautifully with delicate Japanese cuisine? In 2002, Iwao took the reins and began leading the brewery – his professed mission was to produce “the ultimate meal-time sake”. And because he could not afford to hire a new brewmaster (toji), he took on the role of brewmaster himself.

The first step in Iwao’s ambitious endeavor was the creation of Hakurakusei (伯楽星), Niizawa's flagship label. This sake was designed from the ground up to seamlessly complement the delicate flavors of Japanese cuisine. Iwao sourced the ideal sake rice and reimagined the brewing process, while eschewing industry norms like activated charcoal filtering, batch blending, and intensive pasteurization. Instead, he ended the practice of charcoal filtering to retain the sake’s subtle nuances, eliminated the need to do batch blending by creating a more consistent brewing process, and opted for gentle pasteurization to preserve the sake's complexity.

Most sake brewers would take this opportunity to insert buzzwords on their labels like "muroka” (non-filtered), “nama-chozo” (semi-pasteurized), and “ki-ippon” (brewed at a single site) to sell their product – and Iwao could have done so. However, Iwao wanted the brand to speak for itself, and chose a minimalist approach. He opted for simple black-on-white calligraphy featuring the name "Hakurakusei" – the name itself was inspired by the ancient Chinese legend of a horse appraiser named Hakuraku (伯楽), with a divine gift for identifying exceptional horses even in unexpected places. The "star" horse in the legend, capable of running a thousand miles without tiring, served as a metaphor for Iwao's own discerning eye for quality – and hence the phrase “Hakurakusei” can be translated as the “Star of Hakuraku”.

When it came to marketing and distribution, Iwao shunned flashy advertisements and instead focused on building relationships with humble Japanese food establishments. He believed that the true heart of Japanese cuisine resided in the countless small restaurants run by passionate chef-owners dedicated to their craft. Therefore, Iwao personally contacted each of these establishments one after another, fostered a sense of loyalty and trust. These establishments in turn appreciated Iwao’s brewing philosophy and would promote these sakes to diners, allowing Hakurakusei to quietly gain recognition as the "ultimate meal-time sake."

(Source: Reuters)

However, just as Niizawa Brewery was gaining momentum, tragedy struck. In March 2011, the Great East Japan Earthquake devastated the region, destroying most of the brewery's buildings. Forced to relocate to Kawasaki Town, near Yamagata Prefecture, the team faced an arduous journey of rebuilding. Yet, their spirit remained unbroken, immediately rebuilding their brewery and resuming sake production on the new site by November 2011.

The brewery's spirit of excellence can also be seen in how it constantly explores new techniques to enhance the quality of their sakes. In its early days, the standard rice polishing ratio was 70%, and the brewery rarely ever ventured below 40%. However, Iwao challenged his team to push the boundaries of what was considered possible in the era of the Rice Polishing Wars – a period where breweries competed to produce sake with ever-increasing rice polishing ratios. In 2009, they achieved a world record with Zankyo Super sake, boasting a polishing ratio of 9% – the lowest rice polishing number of a sake (they have since released Zankyo sakes of successively lower polishing numbers which now stands at 7%).

This was made possible using an advanced polishing technique developed by Niizawa Brewery known as “flat rice polishing” (Henpei Seimai). While conventional sake rice mills would polish rice grains down to a round spherical shape, the Henpei Seimai method polishes rice grains while preserving the natural elliptical shape of the rice, ensuring that even more of the impurities are removed to give a cleaner and more refined sake.

Niizawa shattered its own rice polishing record in 2018, achieving a groundbreaking polishing ratio of "0." The Reikyo Absolute 0 Junmai Daiginjo was made of rice polished down to an astonishing 0.85%, representing the pinnacle of Niizawa’s pursuit of perfection and a conclusive end to the Rice Polishing Wars. The polishing process itself took a staggering 5,297 hours (220 days) to complete and the ultra-premium sake is priced at well over US$5,000 per bottle.

Despite the success of Zankyo Super 7, the team at Niizawa Brewery was not content. They recognized a trade-off inherent in the extreme polishing of rice. While high polishing ratio yielded an incredibly refined sake, the sake lacked the full depth and richness associated with traditional brews that certain connoisseurs enjoyed. The tiny core posed a challenge for the essential koji mold. The koji struggled to penetrate the incredibly minute polished core of the rice grain, and could not proliferate through the rice. This hindered the koji’s extraction of the rice's natural earthiness and umami flavours, creating yet another a hurdle for brewers to produce a full-flavoured sake.

Taking this as another hurdle to overcome, the brewery embarked on a quest to develop a means to help the koji extract more flavour from highly polished sake rice. Through meticulous research and experimentation, they optimized the koji cultivation process and control over the fermentation process. This led to more efficient enzyme activity, enabling the extraction of a richer umami and rice aroma from the rice, even at such high polishing ratios. These new sakes, all polished to 7%, found their home under the premium Niizawa Junmai Daiginjo collection.

Perhaps inspired by the prestigious Chateau Mouton Rothschild, which features a different artist's label on each vintage, Niizawa Brewery decided to add a similar touch of artistry to the premium Niizawa collection. Since 2015, every year's release came in a bottle adorned with a unique label featuring the artwork of a different Japanese artist in a beautiful collectible collection.

Niizawa Brewery’s relentless innovation is perhaps fuelled by both Iwao’s can-do spirit and also the dynamism of its young brewing team – most of whom are still in their twenties. When Iwao Niizawa took over in 2000, he was himself Miyagi Prefecture's youngest brewmaster. In 2018, he passed the baton of brewmaster to Nanami Watanabe who was only at the tender age of 22, making her Japan's youngest female brewmaster. The team undergoes rigorous training, including regular blind sake tastings and food pairings, to hone their palates and deepen their understanding of the relationship between sake and cuisine.

In this series reviews, I'll explore the spectrum of Niizawa Brewery's offerings. We’ll start with their foundational Hakurakusei line, then ascending to the iconic Zankyo Super 7, and finally culminating the flagship premium bottling - the Niizawa Junmai Daiginjo. Let’s get to it!

Hakurakusei Tokubetsu Junmai |伯楽星特別純米(White Label) – Review

60% Rice polishing ratio, 15% ABV

Tasting Notes

Nose: Delicate and subtly fruity. Opens with soft banana, melon, and honeydew that meld together then developing towards a sweet refreshing scent of melon.

Palate: Clean, sweet and dry – though on the slightly sweeter side. It carries a distinct note of sweet rice desserts, reminiscent of dango, mochi, even a comforting bowl of sweet rice pudding. A welcome acidity cuts through the sweetness, like a splash of tart lychee juice.

Finish: Lingers for a brief while with a more pronounced cereal character. The refreshing sweet-acidity of lychee continues, complemented by a deeper, slightly toasted Rice Krispies note, with just a touch of umami yeastiness rounding off the experience.

My Thoughts:

A solid sake that delivers both simplicity and intensity – one you could enjoy on its own or paired with chuka ryori dishes (Chinese-Japanese stir fry). It's refreshing and uncomplicated, yet the well-balanced lychee tartness adds a very rewarding dimension. This sake feels like a perfect introduction to Niizawa's range, showcasing Iwao's vision of a balanced, food-friendly brew.

My Rating: 7.7/10

Hakurakusei Junmai Ginjo |伯楽星純米吟醸 (White Label) – Review

55% Rice polishing ratio, 15% ABV

Tasting Notes

Nose: Sweet and almost candied. Opens with sweet watermelon candy and bubblegum taking centre stage – there’s also a subtle green undertone, like the rind of a watermelon or freshly sliced cucumbers. The aromas evoke a refreshing watermelon-cucumber cooler. Hints of banana linger in the background, while notes of honeydew gradually emerge as the sake breathes.

Palate: A touch sweeter and even more refreshing than the earlier bottle. The palate offers sweet cantaloupe and honeydew melon leading the charge, melding with the slight tartness of fleshy white peaches complimenting the melon beautifully. A gentle layer of creamy lactic acidity unfolds, akin to a light, freshly made vanilla yogurt.

Finish: Medium in length and quite aromatic. Unveils the rice character that was either too subtle or absent earlier, along with a nutty essence reminiscent of freshly steamed, brown rice. A touch of umami-earthy note of steamed rice comes through that harmonizes perfectly with the prevailing sweetness.

My Thoughts:

Once again, really tasty and enjoyable. I’m most intrigued by this crystalline sweetness and grassy freshness on the aroma that reminds me of a glass of watermelon-cucumber cooler. Beyond its unique aromatic profile, this sake impresses with its overall balance across the dimensions – the sweet and sour elements on the palate find a counterpart in the aromatic ricey umami finish.

My Rating: 7.5/10

Hakurakusei Junmai Daiginjo, Tojo Akitsu Yamadanishiki | 伯楽星純米大吟醸東条秋津産山田錦 (Black Label) – Review

Yamadanishiki rice, 29% Rice polishing ratio, 15% ABV

Tasting Notes

Nose: Distinctively ricey from the get go, an initial impression of comforting rice-based confectionaries like sweet mochi. As it opens up, it gets juicier and perfumery – a burst of sweet and tartness like the experience of biting into the skin of a ripe peach.

Palate: Really bright, sweet and exuberant. Opens with a slight tartness that greets the palate before it gets progressively sweeter and sweeter, more so than the previous bottlings. A vibrant galore of fruits emerges, led by muscat grapes, honeydew, and muskmelon, underscored by soft banana sweetness. A tartness of crisp red apple and some strawberries offer a counter point. There’s a touch of earthiness of fresh steamed rice and a light salinity of seaspray.

Finish: The exuberant sweetness subsides on the finish, making way for a comforting rice character once again. Aromas of cooked rice and a delicate earthiness of raw rice flour lingers. A lingering citrus zesty and dryness clings to the palate for quite a while, inducing a bit of salivation.

My Thoughts:

The expressiveness and intensity is remarkable. The use of well-polished Yamadanishiki rice clearly shines through – this sake is undeniably sweeter and more luscious than the predecessors – and still, there’s a a masterful touch of acidity that maintains a sense of balance.

While the finish is a little cleaner and dryer than expected, the overall experience was delicious and pleasing. Lots of bold and ripe aromas on the nose with an expressive palate that delivered on the promise with good intensity and distinctive nuances that you won’t have to hunt for. It’s a crowd-pleaser with a touch of sophistication.

My Rating: 7.8

Hakurakusei Junmai Daiginjo Yashiro Shimokume Yamadanishiki | 伯楽星純米大吟醸社下久米産山田錦 (Blue Label)– Review

Yamadanishiki rice, 29% Rice polishing ratio, 15% ABV

Tasting Notes

Nose: Vibrant and almost tropical in its fruitiness with some floral nuances. Opens with bright, ripe lychees and the zesty tropical acidity of pineapples. Swirling this for a bit reveals a dimension of white florals, with delicate jasmine, honeysuckle, and white chrysanthemums.

Palate: The texture is light and fluid, honestly a tad more watery than other Hakurakusei sakes. There’s fruitiness her but the sweetness is restrained. The initial impressions are replaced by an elegant floral, and herbaceous even character of a fragrant steeped tea. Some tartness of crisp orchard fruits complement the florals, evoking fresh Japanese snow pears and white peaches.

Finish: Swift, clean and dry, leaving a refreshing, mineral-water-like sweetness on the palate. It retains a very subtle salinity, while an emergent karakuchi sensation “resets” the palate.

My Thoughts:

In hindsight, I should have started my tasting with this sake. It's the most delicate Hakurakusei I've encountered, and its subtleties deserve to be appreciated before bolder flavours take the spotlight.

This sake isn't about making a grand statement; it's more about nuance and restraint. After experiencing the heavier sakes from Niizawa, the lighter body might initially seem underwhelming. But imagine sipping a fine floral tea - that's the experience this sake offers. It unfolds beautifully, from a floral nose to a subtle palate of delicate blossoms and tart fruit. The restrained sweetness allows these floral nuances to truly shine. Notably, the usual umami and earthiness are dialled down, creating a clean, refreshing journey from start to finish.

This particular label exemplifies Hakurakusei’s versatility as the "ultimate meal-time sake." While other bottlings offer more playful fruitness and sweetness, this one is the perfect drinking companion that respects the subtleties of delicate Japanese dishes. I can easily imagine it as the go-to choice for an omakase chef seeking the ideal pairing for fresh oysters or engawa sushi.

My Rating: 7.2/10

Zankyo Super 7 Junmai Daiginjo |残響超特選Super 7純米大吟醸– Review

Kuranohana rice, 7% Rice polishing ratio, 16% ABV

Tasting Notes

Nose: Clean and bright, it opens with a rush of fresh citrus accompanied by sweet honeydew melon. A subtle hay-like note adds a touch of rusticity melded with a hint of umami.

Palate: Ethereal; the texture is exceptionally smooth, a silky viscosity that glides across the palate while the profile is fresh and sweet. Opens with a wave of pure sweetness, lychees and red Kyoho grapes, intertwined with the playful sweetness of watermelon-flavoured Wonka Nerds candy and more rock melon. There is a firm backbone of acidity, reminiscent of fresh white peaches, to keep the sweetness in check along with a light minerality of wet stone offering an austere dimension.

Finish: Really long, it leaves a lingering sweetness of honeydew and a lasting but subtle restrained umami note. The notes are delicate but so prolonged it fades so gracefully, one could hardly tell where the sake ends and the memory begins.

My Thoughts:

This sake is a testament to balance and elegance. Each element, from aroma to finish, seems to be perfectly calibrated, the flavours unfold seamlessly with such precision, effortlessly transitioning from red muscat grapes and melons to a light peachy acidity and culminating in a gentle umami finish.

This sake deserves to be savoured on its own so you could really experience its intricate unfolding layers. However, with its expressive fruitiness and substantial texture, I would playfully suggest a pairing with light, airy meringue-based dessert like a pavlova or an Eton mess.

My Rating: 8/10

Niizawa Junmai Daiginjo 2021 (Mori Mariko Edition) |新澤純米大吟醸2021 (森万里子 ) – Review

Kuranohana rice, 7% Rice polishing ratio, 16% ABV

Tasting Notes

Nose: Clean, bright and aromatic. Bursts forth with vibrant fruity notes of ripe banana, juicy rock melons, snow pears and white peaches, along with a subtle earthiness and a hint of warm vanilla milk.

Palate: The entry is incredibly smooth and round with an immediate cascade of fruits balanced by a gradually building tartness. Clean and vibrant sweetness with young pineapple, cantaloupe and lychee bursting forth, turning slightly more tart with tangerines and orange supremes.

Some elegant florals emerge with honeysuckles and white chrysanthemum, gracefully transitioning towards almond and marzipan in a delightful sweet nuttiness, then some warm vanilla bean and a subtle spices of anise round off the palate.

Finish: Long and lingering but remarkably clean, leaving just a touch of dryness. Sweetness dissipates gracefully, leaving a memory of vibrant fruit peaches and subtle spice.

My Thoughts:

Although this is supposed to build upon the foundation of Zankyo Super 7, this sake seems to carve its own distinct path. It shares the fruity and floral notes of its predecessor, but elevates the experience with a more front-and-center fruitiness and a heightened complexity of umami and earthy undertones. Admittedly, I feel that it doesn’t have the same elegance and nuances of the Zankyo, but it’s flavour-forward and keeps you engaged from start to end – like a good HBO television series, evolving from sweet to tart to nutty. All in all, this scores points for great integration and balance.

While undeniably enjoyable and flavourful, it doesn't quite reach the lofty heights suggested by the brewery's seemingly groundbreaking claims of being twice as flavourful or complex as the Zankyo. It’s really enjoyable, yes, but for its price, I wouldn’t say it’s transformative.

My Rating: 8/10

@CharsiuCharlie