It's been quite the whirlwind for Glenglassaugh the past decade... really the past four decades, in fact.

The coastal distillery, whose crest is composed of two gannets (the birds) whose necks form the silhouette of a pot still that I've always found very charming and reflects the wildlife around its location, had been founded in 1875 by James Moir and his two nephews. Its Portsoy location was selected because it felt very idyllic, being located close to nature, with also a pure water supply from the Glassaugh Springs, and easy access to nearby barley fields. Moir had a growing grocery business nearby and wanted to produce his own whiskies for his customers, and had learnt that the Portsoy location was home to an illicit distillery that was known to produce great whiskies - and so why reinvent the wheel right? And hence the Glenglassaugh Distillery was formally built on the site.

Glenglassaugh sits along the scenic and serene Sandend Bay.

After Moir and his nephews, the distillery would be acquired by the Highland Distillers group (today part of Edrington, which also owns Macallan, Highland Park, Glenrothes). And like many distilleries of its time, most of its whiskies would be dedicated to helping form blends, and so Glenglassaugh's whisky was used in The Famous Grouse and Cutty Sark. Yet, by 1986, as a result of the big whisky bust, the distillery had gone silent. That was until 2008 when the Russian company, Scaent Group, had purchased it - and along with their purchase came some serious stock of whiskies that pre-dated the 1986 closure. This was obviously a big hit with fans. Production was restarted in 2008 as well. During this brief period of ownership by Scaent, some very interesting products were made, like "The Spirit Drink that dare not speak its name" which was a spirit drink made of malted barley and distilled twice, and bottled without ageing at 50% ABV. 

Pretty soon after, within just 5 years, the distillery was acquired yet again by the well-known Billy Walker, joining his BenRiach Distillery Company, which had owned the trio of Benriach, Glendronach and Glenglassaugh. As it's often said of Walker's strategy, the distillery began once again digging into its long aged stocks that continued to age even when production had halted, and this spurred excitement for the three distilleries when they were able to hit the market with whopping age statements - which were of course of great quality which belied the frenzy.

Glenglassaugh Distillery.

And again, in just a blink of an eye, Glenglassaugh would find itself acquired once again! Together with its siblings Glendronach and Benriach, the trio of distilleries would join drinks giant Brown Forman (of Old Forester Bourbon fame), and be overseen by the wonderful Dr Rachel Barrie. Over the next 8 years, much would be done to try and bring Glenglassaugh's single malts closer to the public's consciousness, with a whole new lineup that was much more accessible and also very stylish. Of course, the hope is always that a distillery can carve a beloved brand for itself that allows it to sustain its business standalone - which really is at the core the premise of a distillery producing its own single malt (as opposed to producing whisky that goes into a blend). Unfortunately, once again it didn't seem like luck was on the side of Glenglassaugh, and the eventual tightening of the whisky market into 2024/2025 has resulted in the distillery announcing that it will pause its production once more, although it should be emphasised that the distillery will remain alive.

Ultimately, the hope will be that when the whisky market comes back around, and demand outweighs supply, that Glenglassaugh can shoot its shot once again at creating a sustained name for itself - but till then, those casks will lie asleep once more and continue to age before one day making it back out again, as has been the Glenglassaugh story thus far.

Look at that view from the distillery's stills.

I'll say right here, having tasted both the core range, and along the way several Glenglassaugh releases through the eras (across various owners), that I am a pretty big fan of their whiskies, and I find them not just rich, but also fruity and elegant, and with the right positioning and timing (and luck), it's a distillery that in my book deserves to succeed and I'll always be rooting for the distillery. The proof is in the pudding, if only enough folks tried the pudding.

And so without ado, we're taking a step back in time today to try the Glenglassaugh 30 Year Old that was released between 2013 and 2016, when Billy Walker was the helm. This is said to be matured in Sherry oak.

Let's go!

PS. Big shoutout to the generous gentleman who brought this out for a local whisky gathering and sharing it with the folks! Thank you!

Whisky Review: Glenglassaugh 30 Year Old, 42% ABV

Taste Testing

Colour: Amber

Aroma: It opens with good richness, it's honeyed and also giving all those orchard fruit aromatics of red apples, peaches, apricots, with also this more herbal base of sarsaparilla and cola syrup. Some of that combines to form peach gummies and cola gummies, and licorice too. It's really evocative, how aromatic it is, and rich too, fragrant yet airy and supple, with also such depth, taking you through these fruit orchard at the height of the season.

Taste: Medium-bodied with great concentration and richness, it's giving an almost herbal sort of peach and licorice syrup, backed up by more peach gummies, developing into vine peaches and stewed peaches. There's more on angelica roots, herbal cough syrup, and then more in the way of fruits of red apples and apricots too. It's alittle sour of wet dough, with also some wet oak. It's big on the peachy aromatics, yet holds back on the sweetness, just really estery.

Finish: A sprinkle of black pepper, a dash of teriyaki sauce, that sourness does carry through to the finish. More of that peach fuzz and peach gummies that too persist beautifully.

My Thoughts

This has matured beautifully over those three decades! It's clearly deepened its flavours, concentrated it as well, whilst still keeping the aromas fresh, so expressive and evocative, yet without any sense of being imbalanced or over-oaked. That's might impressive! On top of that, it's not lost its body either, still keeping a good richness to it. The nose on this is just marvellous, and the body rounded and supple, coaxed with all these herbal fruitiness that seamlessly rolls itself out into the finish. Yet perhaps what impresses me most is how this is really elegant and mellow - and of course big on flavour - yet it's not brash or in your face. It's got a real subtle elegance to it.

Let's hope that Glenglassaugh awakens soon once again. Till then, we eagerly await your return!