Islay 18, 1997, Hemp Sparrow, Bottled by Duncan Taylor, 52.6% abv.

Bartender told me its teaspooned Ardbeg. Noticed behind the label it has the Duncan Taylor Octave symbol which I found suspicious as these Hemp Sparrow bottles were usually by Morrison and MacKay. Wondering if Ducan Taylor did this labeling issue on purpose, or if it was a recycled Octave bottle. I have no idea which. Bartender doesn't seem concerned. Unchill filtered.

I think I've used up character counts so more mahjong descriptions next time.

Nose: definitely Islay mafia, peaty but it dissipates significantly with time, smokey, honey. Adding water gives it a low salt and low honey aroma.

Palate: initial and mid palate is slightly sweet and viney, a little vegetative, transitions into a strong back palate of smoke, sweet ham, slightly salty, overdue coals. Adding water makes brings back the smoke earlier in the flavor profile.

Finish: medium to long, smokey, dry, rubber tires, asphalt, a little bitter. Adding water makes the finish short.

This definitely feels like an Islay mafia malt (i.e. Laphroaig, Ardbeg, Lagavulin). I'm a little uncomfortable with the behind-the-label Octave symbol since I know in Japan there are many fake bottles in circulation. Even so, this one tastes pretty good although not a very strong peaty scotch. It is successful in that it attains a middle of the peaty road that other "peated" whiskies have failed. The accotriments of salt and honey help to add some extra dimensionality, but it lacks the ooomph, the impact needed to bring it over the edge.

Grade: B-

Couldn't find quantifiable, reliable reviews.

Image courtesy of Eric Yee.

Eric Yee

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