Let’s start with the most straightforward question – what is “Ex Libris”. For those of you more cultured than I am, hold those thoughts, because in no more than two minutes, I assure you we will be on equal footing. So it turns out that “Ex Libris” is what is known as a book plate, which in essence is a decorative label that is pasted in a book that indicates ownership of the book; it could be a symbol, a coat-of-arms, a crest or some sort of fancy stylized initial that indicates who the book might belong to. It was done traditionally to indicate that the book came from a specific owner’s personal collection or library. Well, all I got was a laser-printed sticker with my name in Times New Roman for my books.

"From the Library of Sophie Mavler" (Image Source: Pinterest) 

In any case, Ex Libris is La Maison du Whisky (LMDW)’s somewhat new series dedicated to exploring world whiskies, as opposed to the supposedly more visual Artist Series, which was more all-encompassing. For all the art that adorned the multiple rounds of the Artist Series, the Ex Libris will utilize literary works instead, with each whisky named after a famous work hailing from the same country of origin. 

In this expression, a Canadian rye whisky from J.P. Wiser’s made by the Hiram Walker Distillery, it is thus named after a work by Mordecai Richler, a Canadian author, and as you might have guessed, the expression takes its name from Richler’s novel “Son of a Smaller Hero”.

Named after Canadian author Mordecai Richler's novel "Son of a Smaller Hero" (Image Source: Abebooks)

Given my penchant for understanding the provenance of whatever I’m sipping on, I think it is only sensible that we delve a little into the literary world of Richler’s “Son of a Smaller Hero”. 

“Young Noah Adler, passionate, ruthlessly idealistic, is the prodigal son of Montreal’s Jewish ghetto. Finding tradition in league with self-delusion, he attempts to shatter the ghetto’s illusory walls by entering the foreign territory of the goyim. But here, freedom and self-determination continue to elude him. Eventually, Noah comes to recognize “justice and safety and a kind of felicity” in a world he cannot – entirely – leave behind. Richler’s superb account of Noah’s struggle to scale the walls of the ghetto overflows with rich comic satire. Son of a Smaller Hero is a compassionate, penetrating account of the nature of belonging, told with the savage realism for which Mordecai Richler’s fiction is celebrated.”

I got that from Penguin Books. Actually sounds like a novel I’d like to pick up, really.

Hiram Walker Distillery in Windsor, Ontario, Canada. (Image Source: Corby Wine and Spirits) 

As for J.P. Wiser’s and the Hiram Walker Distillery, Hiram Walker was an American entrepreneur who apparently rebelled against the distilleries of the time and made a distinctive whisky that was popular in the 1860s, Hiram Walker’s Club Whisky, and as a result pissed off a bunch of American distillers resulting in them getting the US government to pass a law that sought to limit the popularity of his whiskies. This whisky later came to be known as the more contemporarily popular Canadian Club, which now belongs to Beam Suntory, whilst the company itself is apparently now under the ownership of Pernod Ricard. Through its history Hiram Walker & Sons also came to be involved in a number of notable Scotch distilleries including the likes of Ardbeg and Ballantine’s, before folding into Allied Distillers which later became part of Pernod Ricard.

JP Wiser's, not exactly the most well-known but surprisingly intertwined with whisky history. (Image Source: JP Wiser's)

As for JP Wiser’s, which also belongs to Pernod Ricard, it is one of Canada’s oldest continuously produced Canadian whisky, and while it wasn’t created by Hiram Walker, it came to be produced and owned by Hiram Walker & Sons Limited through a series of mergers that happened after the founder’s death and the end of World War I. Although apparently, it was the third largest distillery in Canada in the early 1900s, behind Hiram Walker Distillery and Gooderham & Worts’ Distillery, both of which subsequently merged. 

Well, this all seems very congruous with the specific literary work selected, loads of character. Let’s see if the whisky holds up!

JP Wiser’s 1998 Ex Libris Smaller Hero, bottled for La Maison du Whisky, 22 Years Old, 64.5% ABV - Review

Color: Maple Syrup Amber

Lush yet intensely powerful aromas of maple syrup and butterscotch, spicy liveliness of Szechuan peppercorns, and tinned peaches and spiced apples.

On the nose: Incredibly lush and intensely powerful, sweet, syrupy - maple syrup, butterscotch, caramel, fudge brownies, honeycomb; not unlike a Crunchie bar or breakfast pancakes. There’s a lively spiciness as well, crushed black peppers, Szechuan peppercorns, all very spirited. Fruitiness ensues – blueberries, blackberries, strawberries, apricots, tinned peaches, spiced apples.

Herbs and spices - rosemary and thyme, bergamot essential oils, then a more praline aroma emerges with some freshly shaven wood.

There’s also fresh herbs and spices – rosemary, thyme, even bergamot, with an almost essential oil-esque quality. There’s a light praline character as well, something of Loacker or Hanuta biscuits. Gentle but still apparent is some active woodiness which while potent, isn’t overpowering.

Consistent with its aromas - butterscotch, fruit jams, fruit jellies, more essential oils like eucalyptus and rose petals.

On the palate: Matching its aromas, it is just as intense and lively on the palate with lots of butterscotch, muscovado sugar, caramel and stone fruits – fruit jams and cooked fruits abound! Fruit jellies and tinned fruit syrup and cordials, this keeps on giving! The oiliness persists with notes of eucalyptus, bergamot, rose water; exceptionally perfumery. This is accompanied by light spices of cinnamon, nutmeg and clove. It almost resembles a crème brulee or French toast.

Light dusting of cocoa powder and milk coffee, with just a drop of orange liqueur and something of Bounty coconut chocolate bars and cake fondant.

Ensuing warmth from creme brulees and French toasts with a dusting of cocoa powder, something of Bounty coconut bars and fondant, but don't forget the tingling spiciness reminiscent of ma la and lingering notes of candied ginger. (Image Source: Jo Cooks, China Sichuan Food)

Keep in mind the spiciness of the rye is still very much present – an utterly delightful tingling warmth, texturally similar to light ma la (ma being “numbing” and la being “spicy”, fueled by an obscene use of Szechuan peppercorns). The body remains thick and smooth, almost chewy. This is amplified with a candied ginger note that gives it quite a zing. The woody notes are also apparent in the form of freshly shaven oak and vanilla notes but again while certainly a big presence, is overshadowed by everything else that’s going on at this party.

As the butterscotch and fruit jams recede, the spicy Szechuan spicy numbness persists, now accompanied by a freshness of peppermint and pine cones and gentle touches of cocoa powder, praline and marzipan. (Image Source: Omnivore Cookbook) 

The finish: Long, utterly long and warming with that Szechuan peppercorn tingle. The huge showing of butterscotch and fruit jams have receded, leaving a peppermint freshness and fresh pine cones and fir, that briskness you’d recognize from hitting a forest trail in spring. Light touches of cocoa powder, praline and marzipan caps it off.

My Take

The tasting notes says it all. I am positively astounded by this expression. It’s equal parts intense, spritely and yet remains approachable, which makes it so memorable. With great complexity and depth, yet retaining great balance, a well-bound texture, spicy tingling warmth, and distinctively affable notes, I’d be surprised if anyone could wag a finger at this expression.

Admittedly I’ve not paid the most attention to whiskies coming out of Canada but this expression has certainly put the country on the map for me. A real fruitbomb, lots of butterscotch and an incredibly delightful textural sensation, with a nice air of freshness to it, I cannot sing enough praises of this bottling. Why isn’t this more talked about?

Kanpai!

@111hotpot