Taste Testing Domaine Bernard Bonin's Meursault Magic: Initiales B.B. Bourgogne, Les Genevrieres, Les Charmes Dessus, La Rencontre Meursault 1er Cru, Les Tillets & Clos du Cromin
Just as mythical as the ethereal, baby-blue stenciled winged angel, carrying a lady upwards into the crescent moon, so too have Domaine Bernard Bonin’s Meursault’s been as of late. Always eliciting second glances, striking stops and stares, and the inevitable ooohs and ahhhs at every occasion when they make their elusive appearance, the domaine, run by husband-and-wife duo Nicolas Bernard and Véronique Bonin, has become the proverbial cult insider’s top pick. This has been fuelled by an insatiable demand that can only be spurred by a larger than life wine growing philosophy that is as inspiring as it is otherworldly, extolling the power of biodynamics, met with, of course, the quantitatively decisive constraint of its small output. Now, the wine itself is unquestionably superb, to put it plainly. Pristine, precise, and of 4K resolution, these are wines that demonstrate Chardonnay purity at its finest.
So let's get into it.
Originally part of the esteemed Domaine Michelot, already famed for its Meursault's which its namesake family has farmed since the 1800's, first as coopers and then later venturing into winegrowing, it was fifth-generation Bernard Michelot who had decided after a long and storied career successfully raising the profile of his family's practice (under the name Michelot-Buisson), that he and his wife Lucie Buisson (also part of the historic Buisson family of Saint-Romain in the Cote de Beaune) would divide the family plot in 1998 amongst their three daughters, Genevieve, Odile and Chantal. By this point, the Michelot-Buisson name had been exported and the family vineyards had expanded to some 19 hectares, and so whilst Odile and her husband, Jean-François Mestre (of Santenay's Domaine Mestre) would continue to carry the Domaine Michelot name (now led by their son, Nicolas), both Chantal and Genevieve would branch out into their own expanded labels. This created several related labels of the time, including Michelot-Buisson, Mestre-Michelot, Chantal Michelot and Genevieve's Michelot Mere et Fille. They would eventually be re-consolidated back as Domaine Michelot when Chantal would eventually relinquish her holdings, and Genevieve's share of some 7 hectares would be passed on to her daughter Veronique and husband, Nicolas Bernard.
And so in 1998, the Chardonnay exclusive Domaine Bernard Bonin was born. With on hand phenomenal legacy parcels of Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet - including the likes of Les Pelles, Sous La Velle, Les Tillets, Le Limozin, Le Clos du Cromin "Le Pre de Manche", Les Charmes-Dessus 1er Cru and Genevrieres 1er Cru in Meursault, as well as La Garenne 1er Cru and Les Folatieres 1er Cru in Puligny-Montrachet; much of which are parcels of old vines planted by the Michelot family in the early 1970's - the couple were immediately attuned to the potential that could be if they were to guide their vines towards a lower intervention, more sustainable practice. Right from the get go, they would begin their long march towards organic farming by ceasing all herbicides the following year in 1999. Yet, conscious of not overwhelming their old vines, the couple would spend the next several years observing and learning more about their inherited vineyards. It would ask of them the next 8 years until their vineyards were entirely organic by 2007, with the official certification clinched in 2015. Around the same time, they began to grow increasingly interested in biodynamics, and would decide to pursue the practice alongside organic farming, whereupon they would gain Demeter status in 2021. In that same year, Domaine Bernard Bonin would make its only expansion since its establishment, adding 2 hectares to make a total of 9 hectares farmed, with the additions coming from Veronique's aunt, Chantal Michelot - this includes the Les Narvaux de Dessous and Les Charmes du Milieu 1er Cru plots in Meursault.
And so getting into the vineyards, Domaine Bernard Bonin employs a lutte integree approach that blends organic, biodynamic and lutte raisonee practices, with the ultimate goal being to promote the vitality of their soils as seen as part of a wider ecosystem. The couple pays special attention to leave the soils dormant in winter which they believe is important to not waking up the vines so as to allow a natural growth cycle with minimal intervention, whilst also avoiding frost risk. By their own admission, the domaine's soils are tilled alot, with the use of both buttage and debuttage, or hilling and dehilling, getting down to depths of 12 cm. This is said to help awaken the microbes in the soils, which in turn allows them to help spread the work of biodynamic herbal teas and treatments that have been prepared by the couple for the vines. Rather than chemical pest control, Nicolas and Veronique instead use natural or low-fi fixes such as garlic for fungal protection and bat boxes to help keep caterpillars at bay. They also avoid copper (which they state stays in the soils), and also use horse tilling to keep things natural, with the various activities of the vineyard and also vinification executed according to cosmic rhythms and lunar cycles.
Upon harvesting their fruit - by hand of course, and at lower than average yields of 30-35 hectoliters per hectare (vs. 48 hl/ha on average in Meursault) - the pair vinifies each parcel separately yet identically, taking a minimal intervention approach which allows their signature to concurrently thread through their wines whilst allowing each parcel's identity and terroir expression to shine through. The fruit is slowly pressed whole bunched via a pneumatic press, with the juices allowed to ferment naturally with wild yeasts - there is no chaptalisation, fining, filtering or sulphur used, with only carbon dioxide allowed for the wines to be protected in barrel. The wines are then matured on the lees for 15-18 months in old oak barrels that run up to 15 years old, with the inclusion of some new oak taken from Burgundy or Cognac cooperages, so as to reduce the oak's influence on the wines. The couple refrains from any intense stirring, with the wines only racked from their lees just before bottling, where it is kept in tank for 3 months before bottling, with again no sulphur added along the entire process. As with the work done in the vineyards, all of the activities in the cellar are conducted in adherence to the lunar calendar. This commitment and dedication to biodynamics is of course exhibited in Domaine Bernard Bonin's labels which as mentioned displays a winged angel gently lifting up a fallen maiden upwards and towards the crescent moon, symbolising the power of biodynamics in revitalising a land to its full glory.
And so with that said, it's time to give a whole range of Domaine Bernard Bonin's Meursault's a taste test!
Let's go!
Wine Review: Domaine Bernard Bonin Initiales B.B. Bourgogne
100% Chardonnay.
The Chardonnay here comes from the Puligny adjacent Les Coutures and Murgey de Limozin vineyards, along with the Les Millerands parcel near Meursault. The fruit is farmed organically, sustainably and biodynamically on clay and limestone soils. It's aged for 18 months in oak (10% new), with no fining or filtration.
This is the 2019 vintage.
Tasting Notes
Colour: Straw
Aroma: Distinct exotically spiced curry leaves and cardamom on the open, wafted about by a flintiness and a sleek slate like minerality. This is backed up by a citrusy tartness of lemon curd and green apples over cream. There's also a tropical quality to it, of pineapples and passionfruit, outlines of vine peaches, alittle sour, with then an envelope of soft cheese rinds, floury doughiness and a sprinkle of toasted almonds.
Taste: Medium-bodied, rich, plush, really textured, silky and pillowy. The curry leaves and cardamom take a backseat to here the more forward and bolder lemon curds, green apples and passionfruit. Really creamy and lush, with delicate yet precise acidity. It's cusped by that cool slate minerality.
Finish: It's rich through the finish, still really lush and filled in with generous and concentrated tones of lemon curd and cream, garnished with those exotic spices of cardamom and curry leaves. It's rich and seamless through the still textured finish. Curry leaves lightly linger on.
My Thoughts
A really impressive start here, this was powerful, evocative, elegant, generous and at the same time textured and showed great polish! Right from the open, it was channelling these exotic spices, rather reductive without any loss of breadth or body, with this sleek slate like minerality that held at its core those tart yellow and green fruits, along with a good bit of lees. The aromas were precise and detailed, yet sensual. On the palate, this was plush and pillowy, really supple yet effortlessly showing such energetic tautness. It keeps to the same profile throughout, all the whilst forward and precise, and with a really nice concentration and richness. At times it feels like its almost holding itself back from going full on on its clarity and chisel, still holding on to some of that plump richness, yet at no point does it feel like its ability to get there was ever in question. Such an easygoing show of mastery!
Wine Review: Domaine Bernard Bonin Les Genevrieres Meursault 1er Cru
100% Chardonnay.
From two parcels - the Les Genevrieres-Dessus and Les Genevrieres-Dessous - it is said that the former provides tension and the latter is rounder, with both residing next to the well known Poruzots. The soils here are stony and feature a high mineral content. These Premier Cru sites are harvested the last, with the wines aged on the lees for 18 months in oak (10% new), and bottled unfined and unfiltered.
This is the 2019 vintage.
Tasting Notes
Colour: Straw
Aroma: It opens candied and plush, really mineral driven with spring water and slate leading the way. Beneath there's the spiced curry leaves topped over lemon curd and cream. The flinty reduction here is borderline, with instead a bolder concentration of lemon candy alongside meadowy grass and white flowers, with a slight bit of salinity.
Taste: Medium-bodied, it's now super concentrated, honing in on lemon curd and pith, candied lemon peels, backed up with cream and a side of stony minerality, with a touch of sea spray. It's toned and almost sinewy, with a well defined, really refined acidity. Muscular, yet rich and rounded within, it's showing such a polished structure.
Finish: Those candied lemons and lemon curd persist through with great richness and firmness, still wafted by that wet stone and sea spray, here just a little bit flinty. It's incredibly bodied, really defined, with a resolute and saline finish.
My Thoughts
This takes things up a notch, with this immense concentration and incredible precision. It's noticeably less reductive, yet coming through candied and plush, with quite the mineral drive. The exotic spices show more restraint, which in turn allows for a showing of meadowy grass and white florals that delicately come through. It's focused on citrusy lemons which comes in the form of lemon curds and candied peels, always topped over wet stone and sea spray, displaying great tensile structure and tautness, with beautiful polish and a refined acidity. A really stylish and precise Meursault!
Wine Review: Domaine Bernard Bonin Les Charmes Dessus Meursault 1er Cru
100% Chardonnay.
This comes from a south-east facing parcel that sits at an altitude of 260 meters, situated on the upper section of the Charmes 1er Cru, which is characterised by clay and limestone, with also some sand and silt. The parcel carries a greater proportion of limestone as compared to its other half, the Dessous parcel. As with all of the domaine's Premier Cru sites, this was harvested last, with the wine aged on the lees for 18 months in oak (10% new), and bottled unfined and unfiltered.
This is the 2020 vintage.
Tasting Notes
Colour: Straw
Aroma: Clean and reductive, this opened with that distinctive curry leaves spice laid over a leaner and more precise layer of lemon curd, quince and citrus pith, supported by a touch of cream. It's given this sleekness by an undercurrent of spring water minerality.
Taste: Medium-bodied here, much more plush and lush than its aromas would indicate. It's richer and more rounded, almost velvety, with sensual tones of lemon curd and cream, again energetically charged with a lively freshness of wet stone and salinity. It's incredibly bodied with a bright and polished acidity.
Finish: More on lemon curd and saline wet stone, this time on par with one another, and yet topped with a dusting of herbaceousness of dried oregano. That body of cream carries it through the seamless finish, with the salinity hanging on.
My Thoughts
A more balanced expression that is delivered with both lively freshness and sufficient richness that makes it a crowdpleaser. Aromatically it's leaning really clean and reductive, leading with that curry leaf spice, this time showing a wider spread of yellow fruits, nevertheless still really sleek with that slate like minerality. On the palate, it's a complete switch up, here super plush and luscious, almost velvety this time, with thickened tones of lemon curd and cream which carries through to the finish, all whilst given this really cool lift from the wet stone salinity. So much so that the saline traits hang on right past the finish! It's got fantastic energy and drive, yet still maintaining an effortless elegance without forcefulness.
Wine Review: Domaine Bernard Bonin La Rencontre
100% Chardonnay.
This comes from two parcels - Les Pelles and Sous La Velle - both of which designated Meursault 1er Cru, with significantly older vines that are 75 years old on average! The parcels feature clay and limestone soils, with the wines aged on the lees for 18 months in oak (10% new), unfined and unfiltered.
This is the 2022 vintage.
Tasting Notes
Colour: Straw
Aroma: Opens with a handful of that reductive curry leaves, flanked by the sleek and cool minerality of spring water over wet stone, there's in equal measures the fresh lemons laid over soft cream. It's balanced and more subtle.
Taste: Medium-bodied here, it blossoms to much greater richness and lusciousness, it's candied and plush, filled in with lemon curd and cream, the acidity bright, gentle and polished. Again canvassed and given a lift by the brisk, stony and saline minerality, it's notably broader, with a lofty, pillowiness, puffed up by its creaminess.
Finish: More saline and stony through the finish, still keeping with that lemon curd and cream, entirely plush with an airy finish that's garnished by dried oregano herbs.
My Thoughts
Bearing quite a striking similarity to the Les Charmes-Dessus, this showed great balance, leans more reductive, with then a delightful evolution on the palate to open up a more luscious and pillowy body. It's equal parts fruit, minerality and cream, with then a saline and more herbaceous finish. The acidity is polished, with a clean sensibility, perhaps more focused and narrow compared to the Les Charmes-Dessus which is alittle broader and more varied - but at this point, we're just splitting hairs. A spectacular, more opulent Meursault!
Wine Review: Domaine Bernard Bonin Les Tillets Meursault
100% Chardonnay.
The Les Tillets parcel is a steep high altitude 0.84 hectare vineyard that faces east-south-east, and sits above the 1er Cru Boucheres site, holding vines planted between the 1950's to 1980's on shallow topsoil over stony white marl. The Les Tillets is generally the last parcel to be harvested, with the wines aged on the lees for 18 months in oak (10% new), unfined and unfiltered.
This is the 2020 vintage.
Tasting Notes
Colour: Straw
Aroma: Instant curry leaves reduction, with then a more pronounced leesy quality of floury doughiness and some chopped almonds. Beneath the reduction is in fact some oxidative tones of savoury and gently sweet baked apples that reside alongside the lemon curd, almost in separate layers, here topped with a herbaceous bit of dried oregano and fenugreek.
Taste: Medium-bodied, this shows immense concentration and precision! It's rich and lush, with those classic lemon curds, fresh lemons and cream, with an energetic and charging freshness of wet stone salinity. The acidity is bright and polished, as pristine as its well defined body.
Finish: Taking a more pithy turn here, the lemons, cream and stone continue to come through, yet this time topped with a layer of savoury baked apples. Seamless finish, super fresh and firm, with a lingering nutty savouriness of chopped almonds over cream and marzipan.
My Thoughts
A really phenomenal showing of redox here, where it pushes beyond the domaine's classic style to demonstrate a masterful balance of both oxidative and reductive characters that are both effortlessly well defined and developed, comfortably co-existing, giving it such a stunning complexity. It's layers on layers on layers! Its body once again takes it to another level where it displays such an immense concentration and precision with a perfectly polished acidity! This was a thoroughly spectacular Meursault that so deftly exhibits perfection.
Wine Review: Domaine Bernard Bonin Clos du Cromin Meursault
100% Chardonnay.
A south-southeast facing parcel, the Clos du Cromin sits at the border of Volnay-Santenots where it was in fact once planted with Pinot Noir until 1971 when the Bonin family had replanted it with Chardonnay (Fun Fact: The same parcel is labelled Volnay if Pinot Noir, and Meursault if Chardonnay!). This 10 hectare lieu dit was also once a stone quarry, with the domaine's plot at the upper slopes of the vineyard where the deep clay soils (Marnes Blanches with small pebbles) feature a shallower top soil. This is the first parcel that the domaine harvests. The Clos du Cromin as with all of the domaine's wines is aged on the lees for 18 months in oak (10% new), unfined and unfiltered.
This is the 2018 vintage.
Tasting Notes
Colour: Straw
Aroma: Really clean, it opens with that flinty reduction of curry leaves, here a touch more candied and refined, at its core holding onto lemons and white peaches with a streak of green apple. It's then cusped by cream and that stony minerality.
Taste: Medium-bodied here, candied and lush, it's concentrated, filled in with lip smacking candied lemons and lemon curd over cream. Bright, delicate acidity that rings around the condensed candied lemon. It's firm, plush, and very candied, almost decked in maltose.
Finish: Creamy, candied, the lemon curd is here joined by the stony salinity through the seamlessly luscious finish. The salt hangs on, with lemon meringues drizzled in honey to go.
My Thoughts
Perhaps the most playful and generous of the lot, the Clos du Cromin comes through candied and tart, with this delicious lip smacking lemon candy that is only followed by a deeply charming slice of lemon meringue drizzled in honey! This feels like a hit of childhood sweet treats and felt so fun and engaging, with more forward, confectionary tones that subtly disguise a masterful hand at work. This was charismatic, beguilingly easy going and effortlessly charming, with also great definition and concentration.
Kanpai!
@111hotpot
