The entrance – do you spot the Eagle Rare cask?

Recently, local Singaporean distributor INTERCO-MLE held a tasting flight of Shizuoka whisky.

The tasting event was hosted by Bar.ter, which brought enthusiasts together to discover this relatively new distillery. 

The entrance is impossible to miss. A repurposed Eagle Rare bourbon cask stands sentinel outside. Peer through the glass door, and you’re greeted by a corridor of bottom-lit shelves that seem to run on forever.

The interior – an impressive array of spirits

Step inside, and the scale of the collection becomes clear - its prized rums, bourbons, whisky, and other clear spirits. This was the perfect setting for the tasting flight - an evening when whisky lovers gathered to chart new territory in Japanese distilling while knowing that the bar had them covered for drinks afterward.

Alittle bit about INTERCO-MLE, the distributor (and bottler) was founded in 2018, with the goal of introducing unique Independent Bottlings to Singapore. INTERCO stands for the “International Code of Signals”, and MLE is decoded to be “Patient has had too much alcohol”. This is a nod to the founder, Jeremiah’s time in the Navy. It is also the exclusive distributor for Blackadder, which is a renowned independent bottler.

The founder – Mr Taiko Nakamura

Founded in 2016 by Taiko Nakamura, Shizuoka Distillery aims to create whisky that is uniquely Shizuoka.

The spark came when Nakamura visited Islay in 2012. The last place he visited was Kilchoman, which deeply impressed him with how traditional equipment was able to create craft whisky.

As he lacked formal experience in producing whisky, he sought advice from Ichiro Akuto from Chichibu Distillery. He was advised to get into the industry first before starting production. Thereafter, Nakamura’s company Gaiaflow became the sole importer for Blackadder International.

Nakamura soon devoted himself to making whisky. He chanced upon a plot of land in his hometown of Shizuoka, with a river running alongside. The land was owned by Shizuoka City, but fortunately, the city official was a whisky enthusiast, and the project progressed smoothly.

The distillery was designed by American architect Baston Derek, who also lives in Shizuoka. Much consideration was given, and lots of local wood was used in construction.

The Shizuoka Distillery

Born out of a passion for whisky, its mission is to contribute to the further development of the world’s whiskey culture. And it takes this seriously.

A variety of malts are used, ranging from Scottish whisky malt to beer malt from all over the world. To explore terroir, it also uses malt grown in Japan and Shizuoka Prefecture.

The distillery is situated just beside the Abe-Nakagawachi River.

There are many more unique aspects. It utilizes an English-made Porteous Malt Mill for milling. Next, the water used comes from the underground water of the Abe-Nakagawachi River which flows next to the distillery. The washbacks are made of American Oregon pine and Shizuoka cedar.

Three Stills, Distinct Personalities

The distillery has three stills: W, a Scottish-made direct-fired still made with wood. K, a still brought over from the Karuizawa Distillery. S, a Scottish-made second still to produce several types of raw spirits. (Note: the house bottling “United S” is a marriage of distillates from K and W, not to be confused with the S still)

Pot Still K, from the legendary Karuizawa Distillery.

K is a wash still used at the legendary Karuizawa Distillery, which closed in 2011. It was purchased from auction and refurbished. It utilizes indirect heating with steam to produce a light, fruity, estery distillate.

Pot still W – distilled over an open fire.

W is a wash still made by Forsyth of Scotland. It claims to be the world’s only wood-fired and uses firewood from local forests.

The sequence: we start by comparing the different expressions of K, then W, and finally S. In total, we have 6 expressions:

K – distillate from the ex-Karuizawa still

W – distillate from the wood-fired still

United S – a combination of distillates from K and W

Pot Still K, 100% Japanese Barley, 2023, 55.5% ABV

Aroma: Bright and energetic. Hay bale on a country road, surrounded by wheat fields. Juicy orange and a touch of yuzu tart. Some green juniper and meadow herbs. Buttery vanilla, and fresh popcorn.

Taste: Crisp and slightly vegetal, blooming into sweet, toasted malt honey. Fresh cantaloupe at the end.

Finish: Young ginger heat, lemonade spritz and barley sugar

My Thoughts: Spirit-driven dram which proudly displays its youth. Invigorating, and hints at exciting depth with greater age. 

Pot Still K, 100% Japanese Barley, 2024, 55.5% ABV

The first official release made only from whiskey aged 5 years or more

Aroma: Fresh peaches, mandarin zest with muscat grapes. Caramel nougat.

Taste: Tangerine compote drizzled with acacia honey. Layers of citrus curd, white peaches, and a touch of brown sugar. Red-grapes chewiness expands across the tongue.

Finish: Apricot puree and peach gelato fade into vanilla ice cream topped with caramel drizzle

My Thoughts: Time has polished the rough edges. Distinct sweetness and amplified wine cask influence. I think this is more crowd-friendly without compromising the vibrant DNA of K.

Pot Still K, 100% Imported Barley, 2024, 55.5% ABV

Aroma: Vanilla sponge cake, with diced apples and dried apricots. Some hay and earthy peat notes

Taste: Lemon zest sprinkled over pound cake, studded with candied mandarin peel. Earth peat emerges, weaving a gentle smoke thread through the sweetness.

Finish: Gently ashy, with a final touch of bright citrus acidity.

My Thoughts: Bourbon forward expression. Again, it has benefited from the extra maturity. The smoke is shy but beautifully knits the fruity elements together.

Pot Still W, 100% Imported Barley, 2024, 55.5% ABV

Aroma: Honeyed toast with melting butter, and smoked almonds in a paper bag. Stewed spiced apples, rock sugar. Ripe pineapple and yellow plums round things out.

Taste: Sweet malt complemented with honey. Gentle peat. Very waxy. Malty biscuit and caramel, smoked hazelnut and pecans.

Finish: Stove-wood smoke, grapefruit zest, and candle wax polish

My Thoughts: Very drastic difference compared with K expressions. The barley peat synergizes with the wood-fired stills’ smokiness. Decadent, honey-laden malt with subtle smoke and a waxy depth.

Pot Still W, 100% Japanese Barley, 2024, 55.5% ABV

Aroma: Honey, mixed-fruit jam on burnt toast. Garden herbs and smoked gingerbread mingle with banana sweetness.

Taste: Digestive biscuits dipped in caramel-milk chocolate. Toasted hazelnuts

Finish: Malty sweetness. Acacia honey topped on crisp, crunchy yellow dates. Hint of smoke at the end

My Thoughts: Barley takes center stage here. The palate is coated with luxurious sweetness, while W’s hallmark waxy-smoky soul is preserved.

United S 2023 Summer, 50.5% ABV

Aroma: Fruit basket filled with banana chips, lemon sherbet, ripe pineapples, and apricots. Some earthy peat and separate smokiness, with herbal notes

Taste: Nectarine sweetness, nougat. Some toffee and vanilla nougat. Waxy flavours and peat come right in.

Finish: Barley sugar, some umami, and grapefruit bitterness. Distinct smoke

My Thoughts: A fascinating experience comprised of jigsaw pieces of K and W. W’s weight seems to dominate. But on closer analysis, K’s fruity character peeks through. This is complex, and perhaps brazen. This is perfect for slow dissection. For the fullest appreciation, sample K and W individually first. Then, watch their personalities blossom and interact in S.

Final Notes

A heartfelt thanks once again to INTERCO-MLE and Bar.ter for an evening that did far more than pouring drams. The tasting flight was an ideal gateway to Shizuoka Distillery, and we were guided through the distillery’s origin story, subsequently analyzing the nuances among its different expressions. I’m glad that new releases were included, which would definitely have excited seasoned collectors.

But the real magic unfolded in conversation. We swapped tasting notes, challenging each other’s palates. True to Shizuoka’s own practice of withholding official notes, this allowed the whisky to speak differently to each participant. Dynamic debate is the essence of a great tasting. Each comment adds another colour to the flavour map, revealing notes we might never discover alone. It was learning, camaraderie, and discovery in one sip.

Penned by Pivoine