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Whisky Reviews

Taste Testing Wild Turkey Most Adventurous Whiskeys: Master’s Keep Unforgotten, Voyage, Triumph

 

Scotch fans and bourbon lovers – it's fair to say, these two groups usually inhabit different worlds of flavour. The realm of Scotch ranges from the delicate floral notes of a Speyside single malt to the robust peatiness of an Islay malt. American bourbon on the other hand, is mainly defined by the warmth of charred oak and the sweetness of corn. 

Now, it's 2024, yet certain misconceptions linger. Scotch drinkers might assume that American whiskey lacks the same breadth of flavour experiences found in their beloved drams. At first glance, this might really seem true. American whiskey regulations, particularly for bourbon, can appear restrictive, mandating the use of new charred oak barrels for maturation of every bottle of bourbon. The highly active new oak imparts a distinct profile, one that might feel limited compared to the diverse landscape of Scotch whisky.

 

 

But this perception is far from reality. Bourbon, while a cornerstone of American whiskey, is just one piece of the puzzle. Rye whiskeys, with their spicy kick, wheat whiskeys, known for their smoothness, and even American single malts, all showcase unique characters distinct from bourbon. There is a vibrant tapestry of American whiskey. The only issue is that much of this diversity often remains hidden from non-American consumers, who often have limited access to the good American stuff.

If anything, the competitive nature of the American whiskey industry makes American producers arguably more adventurous in their product development and experimentation when compared to big Scotch conglomerates. Scotch whisky today is dominated by a handful of major players, while the American whiskey scene still remains more balanced, which fosters a spirit of competition among bourbon makers.

 

 

After all, bourbon's flavour is derived from four key elements: the grain recipe (or mashbill), the fermentation process, the distillation method (the type of stills used), and maturation. These flavour levers offer a playground for quite an array of possibilities. Some producers have been experimenting with mashbills and different yeast strains. Many still, rely on the natural variation that arise from maturing barrels in different parts of their rick-houses (where temperatures can vary quite significantly).

  

 

Wild Turkey too, has embraced this spirit of exploration. Although they have stuck to the same mashbill for every Wild Turkey bourbon or rye, since 2015, their higher-end Master’s Keep Series has been releasing more adventurous limited edition expressions every year, often the product of varying the cask types for finishing, aging duration, and the blending of different whiskeys. They are also influenced by current consumer trends – whether it’s a greater interest in rye or in certain new categories of spirit.

 

 

2022 saw the “Unforgotten” which is neither bourbon nor rye, but a hybrid of both. The idea was born from the result of a distillery crew’s accidental mixing of an entire batch of rye whiskey with mature bourbon back in 2010. Fortunately for the crew member, the resulting “bour-rye” was quite interesting rather than disastrous for Master Distiller Eddie Russell, who released the whiskey under the label Wild Turkey Master’s Keep Forgiven. In 2022, the second generation distiller decided to recreate this unforgettable “bour-rye” yet again by blending 13-year-old with 8- and 9-year-old rye before finishing it further in rye casks in the pre-prohibition Rickhouse B.

As consumers begin turning to premium rum, 2023 saw a fitting collaboration with Dr Joy Spence from Jamaica’s Appleton Rum - a sister brand under Campari Group. The Wild Turkey Voyage is a 10-year-old Wild Turkey bourbon finished for about eight weeks in 14-year-old pot still rum barrels selected by Dr Spence from Appleton to highlight rich caramel and tropical fruits.

 

 

For this year, Wild Turkey has released the Master’s Keep Triumph 10 Years Old Rye. This is the oldest ever rye whiskey created by Eddie Russell. The inspiration for this expression is partly historical: Wild Turkey wished to celebrate the triumph of its conviction in sticking to producing ryes in the post-Prohibition era when many producers pulled their rye brands from shelves due to the decline in popularity of ryes, which for many years did not fully regain its pre-Prohibition popularity. Wild Turkey’s belief in rye would however be validated in the early 2000s when rye whisky began to return in popularity due to the resurgence of classic pre-Prohibition cocktails that used rye whiskey and the younger American drinker’s interest in more adventurous and complex-tasting craft spirits. In fact, Eddie Russell’s son and Wild Turkey’s third generation distiller Bruce Russell has a great fondness for complex and bold rye whiskey, which made this expression something of a father’s gift to his son.

 

Master Distillers Eddie and Jimmy Russell and Associate Blender Bruce Russel. 

 

Last week, Wild Turkey brought its celebration of American whiskey from Kentucky to Singapore, showcasing the 3 latest bottlings of its Master's Keep Series. Held at the stylish Warehouse Hotel, Wild Turkey is also debuting the Master’s Keep Triumph 10 Years Old rye in Singapore. I had the privilege to join other whisky enthusiasts for a tasting led by Symphony Loo, Campari Group Asia's Regional On-Premise Manager.

 

 

With an infectious passion for whiskey, Symphony guided us through an exploration of Wild Turkey's most unconventional expressions.

Master’s Keep - Unforgotten, 52.5% ABV – Review

Blend of 13-year-old bourbon with 8- and 9-year-old rye whiskey.

 

 

To ease us into the experience, Symphony began the tasting with the Unforgotten, a result of a “happy accident" that created a unique "bour-rye" hybrid.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Bright, luscious apple notes intertwine with the warmth of brown sugar and sweet gingerbread. The richness evokes classic bourbon, but layered nuances of nutty sarsparilla hint at the rye's influence. A touch of dry oak and leather adds complexity, yet it's remarkably well-balanced and gentler than a typical rye.

Palate: A bright, crisp opening, surprisingly candied, greets the palate. Initial notes of candied ginger spice and lemon candy give way to a luxuriously honeyed, creamy vanilla butter cake character. Werther's Original caramel candy sweetness deepens into a spiced tapestry of sweet liquorice, mint, and dried tea aromatics, reminiscent of a heavily spiced caramel latte. The spice is quite lively but never overwhelms - at 52.5% ABV, this feels surprisingly easy to sip neat.

Finish: A moderate sweetness and warmth spreads across the back palate, carrying a touch of baking spice – anise, cinnamon, rich ginger bread cookies. Gentle aromatic oak emerges alongside notes of sweetened espresso and peanut skins. The very mild leatheriness is well-managed, adding depth without dominating.

 

 

My Thoughts:

The Unforgotten “bour-rye” is remarkably bright, approachable, and impressively layered. It calls to mind a dense lemon butter cake dusted with sweet icing sugar. The crispness, reminiscent of a good rye, and dare I say, a highland Scotch, combines with a complex yet smooth spiciness, making this a very friendly yet flavourful rye-based whiskey. The typically challenging leathery and dry oak notes of high aged bourbon are also toned down, resulting in a bouncier, brighter, and more easily appreciated dram than the heavy-hitting bourbons we often encounter.

While the concept of blending rye and bourbon might seem straightforward, the execution here is impressive. It really does showcase Wild Turkey's blending prowess with its brightness, approachability, and generous flavour profile. I would love to see more bour-rye coming from Wild Turkey.

My Rating: 8/10

Score/Rating Scale :

  • 9-10 : Exceptional, highly memorable, 10/10 would buy if I could.
  • 7-8 : Excellent, well above most in its category, worth considering buy-zone.
  • 4-6 : Good, okay, alright; a few flaws, but acceptable; not bad, but not my personal preference; still worth trying, could be a buy if the price is right.
  • 1-3 : Not good; really did not enjoy; wouldn't even recommend trying.
  • 0 : Un-scored, might be damaged, new make, or very unusual.

Master’s Keep - Voyage, 53% ABV – Review

10-year-old bourbon finished for 8 months in Jamaican pot still rum casks from Appleton Estate.

 

 

Next, we turn towards the Caribbean with the Voyage. As mentioned, this is Jamaican rum aged bourbon that is a collaboration with Dr. Joy Spence, the renowned Master Blender of Appleton Estate in Jamaica.

Tasting Notes

Nose: For those familiar with Jamaican dark rums, the aromas will immediately evoke pleasant memories. Bursts with decadent tropical notes with overripe bananas, mangoes, and pineapples that intertwine with the generous red fruits typical of bourbon—raspberries and cherries—all enveloped in a lavish cloak of caramel and a hint of sticky date pudding. This flavour-forward bouquet is well-integrated, with a light touch of tropical funk and red fruit tartness preventing the sweetness from becoming too cloying.

Palate: Significantly richer and sweeter than the Unforgotten, the palate explodes with even heavier tropical fruit notes than on the nose. Overripe banana and pineapple meld seamlessly with the bourbon's caramel, creating this luscious molasses-like character. It’s a festive, Chrismassy experience, thanks to the richness and heavy baking spices reminiscent of a spiced Christmas pudding, complete with anise seed and pepper. There is but a touch of a rancio-, soy-sauce like savouriness which together with the heat, reminds me of grilled otah. We’re looking at two distinct spirits here but everything remains harmonious, as if the flavours were born to coexist.

Finish: Substantial spice lingers on the back of the throat, leading to a long finish with notes of cocoa powder and peanut praline. The tropical fruits recede slightly, making way for the bourbon’s tart red fruits like raspberries and cherries.

 

 

My Thoughts:

Seamless and incredibly well-integrated, the Voyage stands as one of the most satisfying rum-finished whiskies I've ever encountered by far, and if you haven’t tasted many rum cask-matured whiskey, you would walk away from the Voyage believing that rum and bourbon are a match made in heaven and born to co-exist.

As with the Unforgotten, I'm struck by the paradox of this expression. While the concept of rum-finishing whiskey seems straightforward, many distillers have failed to fully capture the essence of rum in their finished products, until now. Wild Turkey seems to have masterfully executed this concept – and perhaps quality cask selection by Appleton’s Dr Spence has a big part to play in this. The warm tropical notes of rum and fruit just meld so seamlessly with the sweeter red fruits of bourbon. This is a very enjoyable bourbon, but I think this would really impress a bourbon lover who also enjoys rum.

My Rating: 8/10

Score/Rating Scale :

  • 9-10 : Exceptional, highly memorable, 10/10 would buy if I could.
  • 7-8 : Excellent, well above most in its category, worth considering buy-zone.
  • 4-6 : Good, okay, alright; a few flaws, but acceptable; not bad, but not my personal preference; still worth trying, could be a buy if the price is right.
  • 1-3 : Not good; really did not enjoy; wouldn't even recommend trying.
  • 0 : Un-scored, might be damaged, new make, or very unusual.

Master’s Keep - Triumph, 52% ABV – Review

10-year-old rye whiskey.

 

 

Finally, we arrived at the star of the show, the Triumph. This 10-year-old rye whiskey is the oldest rye ever released by Wild Turkey and represents a pinnacle of their rye whiskey craftsmanship. 

Tasting Notes

Nose: Initially reserved, the Triumph gradually unfurls with a bright cotton candy sweetness, followed by creamy notes of vanilla and crème brûlée. Fresh orchard fruits, reminiscent of crisp apples and pears, emerge alongside a delightful interplay of aromas—freshly cracked black pepper, cloves, and cinnamon mingle with hearty cereal notes. The overall impression is clean and bright, with only a whisper of the herbaceous notes typically associated with rye whiskey.

Palate: Lovely thick texture coats the palate as the flavours very gracefully unfolds. Elegant flavours of vanilla, toasted coconut flakes, manuka honey, and cloves lead the way. The initial sweetness and spice, reminiscent of a chai tea latte, gradually transform into deeper, richer notes of dried fruits like sultanas and figs. Although there is a lingering spice, the palate is very generous in flavour that it remains remarkably approachable and easy to enjoy.

Finish: The finish is dominated by this refreshing minty sensation, hints of Hacks candy and liquorice. A subtle leatheriness emerges to intertwine with a touch of dark chocolate and nuttiness, and a whisper of dill lingers at the very end.

 

 

My Thoughts:

While the previous two expressions were impressive, the Triumph emerges as my clear favourite. It possesses a captivating lusciousness and elegance, overflowing with flavour. Rich, smooth, and refined, it opens up slowly, revealing a thick sweetness that never becomes cloying.

This complex rye boasts remarkable depth and flavour that belies its 52% ABV. The sheer abundance of flavour suggests a higher proof, yet it remains surprisingly smooth and approachable. The Triumph is a testament to Wild Turkey's rye whiskey mastery, and a fitting tribute to the distillery's rich heritage.

My Rating: 8.5/10

Score/Rating Scale :

  • 9-10 : Exceptional, highly memorable, 10/10 would buy if I could.
  • 7-8 : Excellent, well above most in its category, worth considering buy-zone.
  • 4-6 : Good, okay, alright; a few flaws, but acceptable; not bad, but not my personal preference; still worth trying, could be a buy if the price is right.
  • 1-3 : Not good; really did not enjoy; wouldn't even recommend trying.
  • 0 : Un-scored, might be damaged, new make, or very unusual.

Final Thoughts

It's quite rare for all the whiskies at a tasting to really impress without reservation, but it seems that Wild Turkey's Master's Keep series has achieved just that.

The Unforgotten "bour-rye" hybrid was a surprisingly bright and approachable whiskey that deftly balances the best qualities of both bourbon and rye, while the Voyage possesses such seamless integration of a Jamaican rum cask finish into a bourbon, creating a very harmonious blend of flavours that makes it seem like a bourbon belongs in a rum cask. The Triumph was also very impressive for its elegance and refinement in a way that would impress a rye lover.

Choosing a favourite among these exceptional whiskies is akin to comparing apples to oranges, as each offers a very unique and captivating experience. However, the Triumph ultimately emerges as my top pick, purely for its complexity and overall elegance.

For those eager to embark on their own Wild Turkey journey, the Unforgotten, Voyage, and Triumph are now available for purchase in Singapore from Campari Group's RARE Division sales team - prices can be obtained upon request.

@CharsiuCharlie