There's a certain delight in venturing beyond the familiar names and discovering the hidden gems produced by small, independent houses. These lesser-known producers remind us that there's a universe of exceptional wines waiting to be explored, each with its own unique story and character. One such hidden gem is André Clouet, a family-owned Champagne house whose history stretches back centuries, predating many of the biggest names in Champagne.

Founded officially in 1741, André Clouet embodies the spirit of the recent grower-producer movement in Champagne where producers craft wines that reflect the unique terroir of their vineyards. At the helm is the relatively young Jean-François Clouet, affectionately known as JFC, who recalls a childhood marked by disarming humility. Growing up in Champagne in the 1980s, JFC shared memories of attending village school alongside children from much wealthier Champagne families.

Unlike his affluent classmates, JFC and his brother often found themselves short on pocket money, and would even borrow money from their peers for candy. Moreover, while his peers boasted of their families' prestigious Champagne houses, JFC's family was primarily known as grape growers who would sell most of their harvest to larger wine producers. This distinction led to teasing from other children, who labelled him "the farmer." This label stung the young JFC as it underscored his family's position in the Champagne hierarchy.

The current owner, Jean-François Clouet, and his son.

However, the tides of fortune have shifted dramatically in recent decades. As drinkers increasingly appreciate single-terroir expressions, the rise of the grower-producer movement have brought families like the Clouets into the spotlight. Embracing this paradigm shift, JFC took the reins of André Clouet and infused the brand with his personality and vision. He became the face of the house, challenging the established order and championing the virtues of small, independent producers.

Actually, the Clouet family's roots in Champagne run really deep. While much of their early story is forgotten, it is believed that their distant ancestors served as scribes and printers for the French royal court, playing a vital role in preserving and disseminating official documents. This connection to the royal court is reflected in the ornate labels that adorn André Clouet's bottles, reminiscent of the grandeur of France's pre-Revolution Ancien Régime period.

André Clouet has some of the most stunning labels, including the "Chalky" cuvée which has a label that resembles limestone.

Under the guidance of JFC's father, André Clouet began gaining recognition in the 1990s, particularly in the Scandinavian wine market which appreciated its quality and value for money. Since taking over, JFC has also propelled the brand to even greater heights. His savvy marketing earned the house a loyal following from even the Royal Family of Sweden, who have appointed André Clouet as an official supplier. JFC is also on first-name basis with members of the royal family.

André Clouet's champagnes are known for their full-bodied character and a distinct focus on Pinot Noir. The core range showcases a selection of Pinot Noir-dominant cuvées, each expressing the unique terroir of its respective vineyard. In recent years, JFC has expanded the portfolio to include several premium Chardonnay cuvées, such as the Chalky, Millésime Leopard, and Dream Vintage, each adorned with striking labels.

I should mention that the family's vineyards also has a compelling connection to the legendary Napoleon. Following Napoleon's rise to power, the early Clouets were rewarded for their loyal service with their first parcel of land. Over the next generations, they carefully expanded their holdings, acquiring prime vineyard sites on the well-placed middle slopes of Bouzy and Ambonnay, two villages renowned for producing some of the finest Pinot Noir grapes in Champagne. The region is one of the warmest in the Montagne de Reims. Due to the sunny, south-facing orientation of the vineyards, the grapes produced are ideal for ripe, full-bodied wines that also offer tension and muscularity. The Clouets take immense pride in their vineyards, which they believe yield the best Pinot Noir of the Champagne region.

Winemaking at André Clouet is fairly traditional. Grapes are hand-harvested, and the winemaking takes place in the family's 17th-century winery, which JFC describes as archaic. An antique wine press, a relic of the past, is still used to gently extract the juice from the grapes, ensuring a fine and balanced must. The must then undergoes alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in small tanks, followed by extended aging on the lees in the cool, chalky cellars beneath the winery. Finally, the wine is disgorged manually.

I had the opportunity to taste the 2008 André Clouet Dream Vintage. The Dream Vintage cuvée is made with 100% Chardonnay sourced exclusively from grand cru vineyards in the village of Bouzy with 4 years of aging on the lees. The wine is also only produced in impressive vintage years.

Perhaps the most striking thing about Dream Vintage is its visual presentation – no two vintages look the same. Each release features a different, vibrantly coloured label inspired by the iconic hues of 1950s Cadillac cars. JFC no doubt had a hand in this design concept – he is a self-professed vintage car enthusiast.

The 2008 vintage in Champagne was characterized by unusual grey skies which prevailed for much of the growing season, but as harvest approached, conditions improved dramatically, said to give great ripeness and balance.

Let’s give this a taste!

André Clouet Dream Vintage 2008 Grand Cru Blanc de Blanc Brut – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: Syrupy sweetness hits first, with a distinct aroma of fresh apricots. It's followed by a warm brioche bread note, but with a savoury, almost Marmite-like yeasty edge. Sweetness of the apricot is balanced by a subtle citrus zest in the background along a hint of minerality.

Palate: It still feels a bit youthful and dry on the palate, yet it bursts with vibrant fruitiness. A rush of tart raspberries, bright yuzu, and sweet green Muscat grapes, complemented by the soft sweetness of bruised apples. A firm backbone of acidity keeps everything in check, while evolving notes of apple pie and lemon curd add a touch of restrained sweetness. There’s but a touch of oxidative notes of praline nuts towards the end.

Finish: Lingers with a light lemon curd sweetness, a subtle metallic twang that evokes fresh seafood, and a persistent minerality accompanied by a faint coastal breeze aroma.

My Thoughts

This Dream Vintage is still fairly tightly wound for its age, but already you can see that it is remarkably complex, showcasing a very vibrant interplay of tart fruitiness, complex minerality, saline notes and subtle breadiness. Lively acidity also adds a nice intensity to the experience.

It's pretty impressive now, but given its strong acidic backbone, this is certainly good cellared for another 5 to 10 years. This would have even more to offer with a few more years of ageing – I wouldn't be surprised if another couple of years in the cellar would bring out even greater complexity and perhaps more of that enticing nuttiness!

My Rating: 8/10

@CharsiuCharlie