Bibi Graetz is a relatively new winemaker whose first wine was only released in 2000, and it has already swiftly ascended to the ranks of Tuscany's most respected. Yet its path to vinous success was anything but typical.

A first-generation child of Norwegian immigrants, Bibi Graetz, founded this eponymous Tuscan winery, though his career began far from the rolling vineyards of Tuscany. Following in his father’s footsteps, he first earned an art degree from the prestigious Accademia delle Belle Arti in Florence, initially channelling his creativity into stained glass art. Winemaking was not part of his original plan.

However, his family owned Castello di Vincigliata, a rough-hewn medieval castle that would not look out of place in a Game of Thrones setting, and the estate included a modest 2-hectare vineyard. With no formal education in viticulture or oenology, nor the pedigree of a winemaking family, Bibi started working – initially as a pastime – on the family vineyard within the grounds of the family property. His family had little interest in cultivating wine, but Bibi saw the potential in the Tuscan marl and clay soils mixed with sand and developed the vineyard, personally becoming increasingly obsessed with this winemaking endeavour.

The Bibi Graetz winery in Fiesole, which overlooks the city of Florence.

Initially overwhelmed by the complexity of the craft, he sought guidance from seasoned winemakers by undertaking a four-year apprenticeship. That equipped him with the confidence and knowledge to pursue his newfound passion in the late 1990s. His first creation was the Testamatta Rosso, a 100% Sangiovese red that made a bold statement; its name translates to something like "Crazy in the Head" as a nod to Bibi’s audacious pursuit of winemaking despite. The Testamatta’s impact on the Tuscan and European wine scenes was swift, and demand for the flagship wine grew.

As his winemaking portfolio expanded, the family’s two hectares of vineyard proved insufficient, prompting Bibi to source fruit from beyond his estate. Bibi cast his net wider, sourcing grapes from across the region, but always focusing on showcasing native Tuscan varieties like Sangiovese, Canaiolo, and Colorino in his red wines. He also ventured into white wine production, crafting Testamatta Bianco and other expressions from indigenous white grapes like Ansonica, sourced from the picturesque island of Giglio.

In just two decades, Bibi Graetz ascended to the pantheon of Italy's most brilliant winemakers. The Testamatta and Colore would consistently garner high scores from esteemed critics from Wine Spectator, Wine Advocate, and James Suckling. Bibi was also particularly lauded for revealing the true potential of Italian indigenous grape varieties and uncovering wine-growing regions long overlooked by others.

His pure Sangiovese wines under the Testamatta label are particularly lauded by critics for their depth and character due to the use of old vines from the best sites in his Tuscan estate. His Colore label, meanwhile, champion overlooked or undervalued areas by traditional winegrowers, sourcing indigenous grapes from not only prestigious regions like Chianti Classico, but also sometimes forgotten vineyard parcels across the Tuscan terroir, including Vincigliata near Florence and the Siena province in southern Tuscany. Even his success with white wines made from grapes of Giglio Island helped to prove Tuscany's capacity for producing exceptional white wines and provided a source of inspiration for other winemakers in the region.

Bibi Graetz has now a devoted following among collectors and the wine trade alike, with his name often being cited in the same breath as part of the prestigious Super Tuscan category.

Today, we turn our attention to the wine that catapulted Bibi Graetz to fame – the iconic Testamatta Rosso from the 2020 vintage. This 100% Sangiovese red wine is sourced from the six most prized vineyards owned by the estate: Vincigliata, Olmo, Londa, Lamole, Montefili, and Siena. Each vineyard, divided into parcels, is harvested up to eight times, ensuring that every grape is picked at its peak ripeness. This labor-intensive process, a hallmark of many top-tier wineries, allows Graetz to capture the full spectrum of flavours and aromas that Sangiovese can offer.

The hand-picked grapes undergo a rigorous selection process, first in the vineyards and then again at the winery, before being destemmed and gently pressed. Fermentation happens in both steel and oak vats, utilising both wild yeast and selected wine yeast. Once the wine is made, it's aged for 20 months in old oak barriques for subtle notes of vanilla and spice.

Now, let's give this a taste, shall we?

Bibi Graetz Testamatta Rosso 2020, Tuscany IGT – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: Elegant. The initial whiff is mild and subtle but it quickly develops an intriguing, almost tropical rummy note: overripe mangoes mingle with rich oak that never becomes drying or overpowering. A wave of overripe red fruits follows, reminiscent of bruised cherries and raspberries, complemented by a touch of vanilla, toasted coconut, and cigar box, all laced with sweetness of fresh lavender. There’s also a dimension of magic marker and eraser.

Palate: Very luscious and smooth but with decent structure. Opens with the same theme of red fruits and oak from the nose, before a layer of mineral and graphite notes intertwine with dry hay, while moderate cardamom spice, liquorice and mint add a fresh counterpoint. The tannins are very present and structured, yet they are balanced enough to allow a lot of the fruit and sweetness to shine through the structure and light acidity.

Finish: Relatively brief, leaving a lingering impression of mint and gentle spice.

My Thoughts:

Captivating stuff from Bibi Graetz! This Testamatta Rosso has been really aromatic and flavourful, with respectable tannins that don't overshadow the vibrant red fruits. As the firm tannins suggest, this has great potential to age gracefully for years to come and yet it’s absolutely ready to drink – I’d be tempted to pop a cork of this stuff open before the 10 years are up! A truly impressive Sangiovese that showcases the artistry of Bibi Graetz.

My Rating: 90/100

@CharsiuCharlie