Blanc de Blancs is a term you might encounter in your journey exploring the world of Champagne. Directly translating to "white of whites" it refers to wine made exclusively from white grapes. This stands in contrast to the vast majority of Champagnes which are made from a combination of black grapes and white grapes. On the other end of the spectrum, there's Blanc de Noirs Champagne, made from exclusively dark grapes - usually Pinot Noir or Meunier.

Pretty straightforward, right? Though as a Champagne consumer, there’s much more to uncover beneath the surface of this designation

When a Champagne is labelled “Blanc de blancs”, you can make a few more educated guesses about the bottle. It's quite likely it would be made from only Chardonnay grapes, which thrive in the southern Champagne region— and this assumption is all the more likely if the Champagne is made of the renowned Côte des Blancs sub-region. The Côte des Blancs, with its high chalk content, is considered a prime terroir for growing Chardonnay grapes. This coastal strip of chalky slopes is often referred to as the "golden slopes" of Champagne, and the Chardonnay grown here has an elegance and finesse that's highly sought after.

So how does it taste? Blanc de Blancs Champagne are often characterized by more youthful energy, crispness, fresh citrus, lively acidity, and are typically lighter-bodied with a more refreshing quality. Contrast this with Blanc de Noirs, which tend to have a fuller body and sweeter red fruits.

As most Blanc de blancs are single-variety wines (e.g. a 100% Chardonnay), they also better express their origin and soil. For instance, if it comes from Cote de Blancs, due to the chalkiness of the soil, these wines tend to have a measured minerality.

One Champagne house that has mastered the art of Blanc de Blancs is Billecart-Salmon. Nestled in the quaint town of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, just east of the legendary Epernay region for other big Champagne producers, Billecart-Salmon has been a beacon of tradition and innovation since it was founded in the 1800s by Nicolas François Billecart and Elisabeth Salmon. Now spanning seven generations, it's one of the few major Champagne houses that have remained within the founding family. They've garnered a reputation for their exceptional rosé Champagnes, and also pioneered the use of cold fermentation in the 1950s to preserve the delicate fruitiness and aromatic complexity of their grapes.

Steel fermentation tanks at Billecart-Salmon (Source: World's Best Vineyards)

The Billecart-Salmon Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne is a 100% Chardonnay wine from two different vintages, all sourced from Grands Cru villages in the Côte des Blancs sub-region. Let’s give this a taste.

Billecart-Salmon Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: The aroma of crisp Golden Delicious apples fills my nose joined by light baked pastry notes… it’s all reminiscent of a warm apple pie or an apple strudel. A subtle yeasty note, like freshly baked biscuits, intertwines with a zesty citrus, along with a faint whisper of briny Pacific oysters and a light mineral touch.

Palate: Lively and refreshing with a burst of tart apple, pomelo, and lemon peel dancing across the tongue. The effervescence is fine and delicate, lifting the flavours with a light zestiness without overpowering with acidity. The apple pie notes resurface accompanied by a comforting breadiness.

Finish: Short but leaves an obvious impression of minerality, like cool slate on a warm day. A touch of grassiness and a hint of yeastiness linger for a moment before fading away.

My Thoughts:

This is pretty straightforward but sufficiently layered to be memorable. Balance is also a theme here, giving us several dimensions without overwhelming the senses – I especially love that combo of apple notes and pastry.

This Champagne is perfect in its youth so you can feel free to drink it now without any further bottle aging. Great stuff from Billecart-Salmon as expected!

@CharsiuCharlie