In the northern reaches of the Médoc, just outside the charming village of Saint-Estèphe, stands the captivating Château Cos d’Estournel. As you approach the estate, the striking blend of oriental and French Neoclassical designs immediately captures your attention. Pagoda-style towers, massive carved doors, and intricate details transport you to a world straight out of a Eugène Delacroix painting. Stepping onto the courtyard, you'll be greeted by a statue seated contemplatively on a bench, of a man whose vision and eccentricity shaped the destiny of this remarkable château: Louis Gaspard d'Estournel.

Louis Gaspard d’Estournel inherited the estate of Cos d’Estournel and Pomys in 1791. A true believer in the exceptional quality of his terroir, he embarked on an ambitious expansion, increasing the domain size by three times, encompassing some of the most prized plots in the region. Then in 1811, he officially established the winery, and the château buildings themselves stand as architectural marvels of their time.

Louis was a man of boundless curiosity and a fascination with the exotic. His travels to the East, particularly India, left an indelible mark on the château’s architecture. The whimsical pagodas that adorn the roof while his halls are filled with ornate statues of trumpeting elephants – all a testament to the Eastern aesthetic that earned Louis the nickname the ‘Maharajah of Saint-Estèphe’.

Cos d’Estournel was a trailblazer in many respects. Thanks to Louis’ vision that went beyond just France, the château had begun international export by the 1830s, with a significant portion of the château’s production was being shipped to Louis’ favourite region of India, where British officers were already developing a taste for these exceptional wines. It eschewed the traditional négociant system, preferring to market and sell its wines directly to customers, and becoming one of the first Bordeaux châteaux to bottle, label, and sell its own wine. This was a practice that is now commonplace but was very rare at the time.

Sadly, just two years before Cos d’Estournel was officially classified as a prestigious Second Growth Estate in the landmark 1855 classification, Louis passed away in 1853. The estate then changed hands several times over the next one-and-a-half century before being acquired in 2000 by Michel Reybier, whose investment significantly rejuvenated the estate. Under Reybier's stewardship, he brought in talented winemakers like Jean-Guillaume Prats and oversaw a complete revamp and redesign of the wine-making facilities. One of the most notable innovations was the adoption of a "100% gravity design" for the winery – more on that later.

Today, the estate occupies about 100 hectares, with 70 hectares dedicated to vines. The average age of the vines is an impressive 55 years, and the planting consists of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and a touch of Petit Verdot. The name “Cos” itself is derived from the old Gascon dialect, translating to “the hill of pebbles”, a fitting description of the terroir with its unique mix of clay, gravel, sand, and limestone soil. Interestingly, the estate boasts more gravel and less clay than its neighbouring vineyards, a factor that contributes to the distinctive character of its wines. As the soil composition varies quiet drastically across the property, Merlot is grown where clay-limestone soils dominate the eastern part, while the highest parts of the plateau reserved for Cabernet Sauvignon. In a further commitment to sustainability and quality, Cos d’Estournel even transitioned to fully organic viticulture in 2024 – a rare achievement in Bordeaux.

The winemaking philosophy at Cos d’Estournel is one of minimal intervention. The 100% gravity design of the winery, introduced by Michel Reybier, plays a crucial role in this philosophy. A “100% gravity design” means that the entire winemaking process of the winery is designed on multiple levels, with grapes processed at the top floor, before it is processed into must and allowed to flow naturally (by way of gravity) to the lower floors where the next steps take place.

(Source: Insider Tasting)

By simply using gravity to transport the wine through the various stages of production, the need for mechanical intervention is significantly reduced. Air pumps are no longer needed, which eliminates unnecessary oxidation of the must. This gentle handling helps to preserve the delicate aromas and flavours of the wine, resulting in a more nuanced and expressive final product. It is worth noting that only some of the most prestigious and well-funded wineries have the capacity to implement such a system.

In addition to its flagship grand vin, the château also produces a second wine, Pagodes de Cos, and two white wines: Cos d’Estournel Blanc and Pagodes de Cos Blanc. The white wines are crafted from a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, offering a refreshing counterpoint to the estate's powerful reds.

Today, I have the privilege of experiencing a piece of this legacy firsthand, with a bottle of Cos d’Estournel 2017 before me. This vintage is a blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot.

Château Cos D’Estournel 2017 – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: Blend of thick, ripe red fruits, reminiscent of blackberries and plums just past their peak. A subtle hint of liquorice intertwines with warming spices like cinnamon and clove, even a touch of incense. Delicate notes of pencil shavings, hay, toasted hazelnuts, and barnyard add complexity, evoking the rustic charm of the countryside.

Palate: Presents a medium body with a plush, slightly sweet character, balanced by a very firm tannic structure. Fruit profile slowly evolves on the palate, transitioning from a warm red fruits to a more nuanced interplay of dark fruits - black currants, black cherry, and plum taking centre stage, complemented by subtle earthy undertones. Though it boasts a rich mid-palate, the rather high acidity and assertive tannins lend a certain leanness to the wine. Perhaps a touch more depth would elevate it.

Finish: Of a medium length, leaving a lingering impression of ripe fruit and gentle spice. The tannins, initially firm, soften and evolve into a velvety texture, leaving behind indistinct traces of herbs, spices, and just a touch of minerality.

My Thoughts:

Though it’s still in its younger phase, this 2017 Cos d'Estournel offering a promising aromatic complexity and a fairly enjoyable drinking experience.

When initially poured out, it felt quite tight and reserved, so do feel free to decan t for a slightly longer period to reveal a greater sense of plushness and soften the tannins a little more.

Overall, it's an enjoyable wine with an impressive bouquet on the nose, but it lacks a truly profound presence on the palate. The slightly lean and coarse tannins suggest that it will benefit from further ageing, perhaps another half decade or even a decade, to fully integrate and reach its peak.

My Rating: 86/10 

@CharsiuCharlie