The 'Haut-Brion' name is enough to make any Bordeaux wine lover perk up - it's a distinctive name that immediately draws one's mind to the First Growth of the same name. Yet it can be alittle confusing when it becomes known that there are numerous Haut-Brion's, each sporting various first names - now, can the real Haut-Brion please stand up?

Well, today we're going to talk about it. And then we're going to try some wines from a Chateau that actually was part of that Haut-Brion.

Said to be one of the most beautiful estates in the region.

This Is Chateau Les Carmes Haut-Brion

The illustrious first growth Haut-Brion (yes, that Haut-Brion) had been planted even in the time of the Romans, and would formally come about when Jean de Pontac would marry the daughter of the mayor of the Libourne commune (near Saint-Emilion and Pomerol, on the other Bank). The mayor was also the seigneur (or Lord) of Hault-Brion, and thus de Pontac would receive the estate as part of the wedding dowry. He would eventually purchase himself the title to the domain of Haut-Brion, and eventually construct the chateau as we know it in 1549.

And so Chateau Les Carmes Haut-Brion too was once part of this large estate, that was until de Pontac had gifted a portion of his estate to the Carmelites, a Catholic order that dates back to the 12th century. Part of his gift would include a water mill, pastures of land, and a vineyard. This took place in the 1600's and the nuns of the Catholic order would tend to the vines for the next two centuries, with the 4.7 hectare land eventually taking on the name Les Carmes Haut-Brion to reflect its religious associations.

The work that goes on on the Les Carmes Haut Brion estate.

As far as the First-Growth Haut-Brion is concerned, the only other estates of a similar name that are actually affiliated with it are La Mission Haut-Brion, and the two now fully absorbed and thus retired estates of Laville Haut-Brion and La Tour Haut-Brion. But if you want to play it safe and simple, just keep to Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion, and you're good! And of course Les Carmes Haut-Brion is certainly worth the try as well - hence we'll be delving deep into this rather hidden gem today.

And thus because of this forgotten history of Les Carmes Haut-Brion, the estate tends to go unnoticed despite once being of the same estate as the First Growth Haut-Brion itself. The small parcel therefore lies very close by to Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion, finding itself encased in a solid concrete wall around its edges.

A New (And Prolific) Chapter For Les Carmes Haut Brion

Whilst the original gift from de Pontac to the Carmelites was just 4.7 hectares, it has since grown to 29.6 hectares under its various subsequent owners. Unfortunately for the Carmelites, the French Revolution brought on an exodus of any religious orders in the country, and thus the estate had been confiscated from the Catholic order and nationalised, before eventually being sold off. As mentioned earlier, the estate would pass through various families who would incrementally grow its vineyard holdings.

A new state of the art building by Philippe Starck.

Yet perhaps of more modern and material development, is its ownership under Groupe Pichet as of 2010. The purchase price made by Groupe Pichet had set a new record for any Bordeaux vineyard, having transacted at 3.8 million Euros per hectare, bringing the entire purchase price to 18 million Euros. It was under the Groupe Pichet that the vineyards grew the most substantially. The Groupe has also done well to improve the wine's quality, replanting much of the vineyards to a higher vine density of 10,000 vines per hectare, with harvesting done manually, and vineyard biodiversity greatly cared for so that the wines might express best its prestigious terroir.

The famous architect and designer Philippe Starck was even commissioned to create a totally new facility for Les Carmes Haut-Brion, with new wine-making facilities, reception areas and barrel cellars. The entire building has been designed to resemble a boat floating on water, paying homage to how the early Bordeaux wines were first exported by boat. Till this day, the estate is considered one of the most beautiful of the area.

A uniquely Cabernet Franc focused estate.

Into The Vineyards And Cellars Of Les Carmes Haut Brion

The estate's terroir can be characterised by gravel, sand, clay, and some limestone deposits in the soils. It is planted with 41% Merlot, 39% Cabernet France and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Interestingly, the estate plants to continue to increase their Cabernet Franc vines, whilst decreasing their Merlot, up until 50% of their vines are Cabernet Franc. This runs counter to the Cabernet Sauvignon dominant wines of the region, but is due to the fact that the limestone and gravel here works best with Cabernet Franc. Worth noting is that only the fruit harvested from the original estate is bottled as the Grand Vin, with fruit from the vines that has been acquired since going into the second label.

Walking through the cellars, you'll notice hand painted fermentation tanks that pay tribute to winemaking in the estate and its history.

In the cellars, the fruit is vinified whole, with no pumps used, instead everything here is gravity-fed and works more as an infusion as the fruit and its juices are allowed to gently soak with the skins. The Chateau has nevertheless began testing with 45% average of the fruit being vinified whole. The uncrushed berries, with its stems, are layered into the fermentation vats, on a plot by plot basis, wtih varying vats of different sizes and materials (27 vats across wood, stainless steel and cement). Malolactic fermentation takes place in the tanks, with the wines aged in 100% new French oak barrels for up to 18 months. About 5% of the estate's wines are aged in clay and concrete amphora.

With the sheer ambition and resources that has been put into Les Carmes Haut-Brion, it's no surprise then that it has clinched being the fastest selling wine en primeur, with prices that continue to escalate even in the secondary markets. Whilst the estate might be historic, it appears to be entering a new and productive chapter of its story that might raise its recognition substantially.

Today we're going to try the 2020 vintage of the Grand Vin of Les Carmes Haut-Brion! Let's go!

Wine Review: 2020 Chateau Les Carmes Haut Brion

Tasting Notes

Colour: Garnet

Aroma: It opens up with great richness and concentration. It's focused on freshly toiled soil, roses, bramble, as well as an assortment of raspberries, blackberries and blueberries filling the top notes as well as the base. It keeps to itself, and isn't quite so big and perfumery. With time, some mulberry, mulberry leaves and eucalyptus begins to emerge as well, giving it a gentle chewiness and minty, herbal quality to it as well.

Taste: Really good richness here, medium-bodied, it's got a moderate plushness, filled in with roses and raspberry jams. It sports a really satisfying fullness about it, with a well-saturated body that comes with good structure and depth.

Finish: Alittle more chalky here, along with some earthier tones of tobacco and eucalyptus, it's beginning to lean alittle darker, giving more blackberries, as well as mint and menthol. The richness powers through into the finish.

My Thoughts

A solid showing from Les Carmes Haut Brion! It showcases a good focus and concentration of the fruits, very classically fruit and earth driven, with the addition of some menthol qualities. It has a good precision and structure, well defined and saturated with its flavours. Bear in mind that at the 2020 vintage, this is still fairly young and already showing quite a good potential. And so that said, this could definitely age alittle longer for it to open up somemore on both the nose, and for the tannins of the body to loosen up more as well - it still feels alittle tight. At the moment, the tannins remain alittle grippy, which seems like it will only turn silkier, more cohesive and richer with time. The potential's all there, and it'll be exciting to revisit it when it is plusher and with more depth.

Kanpai!

@111hotpot