Bordeaux is the undisputed powerhouse of fine wine with much of its influence rooted in the famed Left Bank, home to some of the world’s most prestigious châteaux. This prestige is concisely encapsulated in the iconic 1855 Classification of Bordeaux's Left Bank châteaux – a ranking system that has shaped the perception and value of Bordeaux wines for more than a century.

In 1855, the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce, eager to showcase the region's finest wines at the Paris Universal Exhibition, commissioned a group of wine brokers to create a ranking system to highlight the crème de la crème of Bordeaux wines.

The 1855 Paris Exposition was a grand world's fair held on the Champs-Élysées in Paris. (Source: Essentiels)

The basis of this ranking was straightforward. The brokers assessed the market demand for each wine, identified the estates that consistently commanded the highest prices over a considerable period, and divided renowned Bordeaux wineries into five tiers or “growths”. At the pinnacle of this hierarchy stood the Premier Cru Classé (First Growth), a tier that initially included Château Lafite, Château Margaux, Château Latour, and Château Haut-Brion.

Interestingly, the classification system was intended to be dynamic, allowing for the addition of other deserving winemakers and châteaux over time. Despite this intention, the 1855 Classification took on a life of its own, becoming a hierarchy that seems to be set in stone. The system became a powerful marketing tool for wine brokers and was treated as gospel truth by merchants and connoisseurs alike. Any attempt to challenge it was met with resistance. This created a self-perpetuating cycle, where the classification's prestige reinforced its immutability, and its immutability further enhanced its prestige. Not unlike the rigidity of the U.S. Constitution, this immutability also became a source of dissatisfaction and criticism.

While the rankings could theoretically be amended, the reality was that vested interests made any changes incredibly difficult. Many properties sought to be included in the classification, but those already within its ranks fiercely guarded their positions. One owner famously captured this sentiment when he said, "There is plenty of conflict and envy between owners as it is. Just imagine the repercussions if some of their properties were demoted in a new classification. There would be blood in the streets!”

It took over a hundred years for the 1855 Classification to truly prove its capacity for change. And it wasn’t without decades of effort until 1973 that Château Mouton Rothschild, a former Second Growth wine estate, was elevated to the First Growth club by official decree. This historic event was the culmination of the work of Baron Philippe de Rothschild, the third-generation owner of Mouton Rothschild.

Baron Philippe de Rothschild is credited for Château Mouton's unprecedented ascension to the coveted First Growth status.

The Early History of Mouton Rothschild

Originally named Château Brane-Mouton, the estate derived "Mouton" from the old French word "motte," ("mound") a nod to the estate's prominent gravel knolls, a characteristic feature of the Médoc landscape. These gravelly hills, formed over millennia by the Garonne River, provide excellent drainage and heat retention, crucial factors in the cultivation of quality grapes. By the late 1700s, Château Brane-Mouton was producing wines that fetched prices comparable to those of the esteemed Château Pichon that remains a prestigious name today.

In the 1830s the estate was acquired by Isaac Thuret, a Parisian banker. Thuret, perhaps more accustomed to the shining boulevards of Paris than the vineyards of Bordeaux, was less interested in the intricacies of winemaking. He made very little effort to maintain or improve the estate, a neglect that likely later contributed to Mouton's disappointing ranking in the 1855 Classification. It seemed Mouton was in need of a saviour, a family with the vision and resources to make the best of its terroir.

Enter Nathaniel de Rothschild, a member of the English branch of the Rothschild banking dynasty. (Nathaniel is cousins with James Mayer de Rothschild of the French branch, who acquired the iconic Château Lafite in 1868.) In 1853, Nathaniel purchased Château Brane-Mouton, renaming it Château Mouton Rothschild. This acquisition marked a turning point in Mouton's history, ushering in an era of investment and revitalisation.

Nathaniel invested heavily in replanting the vineyards and modernizing the winemaking facilities, laying the foundation for the estate's future success. The next two generations faithfully took reins of the estate and managed it with great care. However, it was Baron Philippe, with great passion for Mouton and the world of wine, who took the estate to another level. A man of boundless energy and creativity, he embraced his work at Mouton with unwavering dedication, living on the estate and forking out personal funds to purchase his siblings’ shares to become the sole proprietor.

Baron Philippe’s Vision

While today we picture Mouton as the epitome of luxury, back then, things were a bit more…rustic. No running water, no electricity – it was hardly the glamorous life one might associate with a renowned château. Taking over management of the estate in 1922 when he was just 20 years old, the young Philippe (before he inherited the Baron title), embraced the challenge, determined to transform Mouton into the great estate he believed it could be.

From the outset, Philippe was convinced that Mouton Rothschild deserved a place among the First Growths. He saw the inherent quality of the terroir, the potential of the vineyards, and he knew that with the right care and attention, Mouton could produce wines that rivalled the very best in Bordeaux. And it wasn't just Philippe who held this belief; the prices of Château Mouton Rothschild consistently matched those of the First Growths. This market recognition fuelled Philippe's determination to have Mouton officially recognized for its true worth.

Philippe's earliest innovation was to bottle the entire 1924 vintage at the château. This was a bold move, as most Bordeaux châteaux at the time sold their wines in barrels to négociants, who would traditionally handle bottling and distribution. But by taking control of the bottling process, Philippe ensured the quality and consistency of his wines, a practice that would become mandatory in Bordeaux 50 years later. To accommodate this new bottling regime, Philippe commissioned the architect Charles Siclis to design and build a Grand Chai in 1926, a huge barrel hall specifically for the ageing and bottling of wine.

 (Source: Christie's)

Philippe's innovations weren't limited to the vineyards and cellars. He was something of a marketing genius who understood the importance of creating a unique identity for Mouton. He recognized that a bottle of wine is an object of desire, a symbol of status, and a work of art in itself. In 1924, he broke with tradition by commissioning artist Jean Carlu to design a Cubist-style label for the vintage. This marked the beginning of the estate's renowned tradition of featuring unique label art for each vintage, a practice that continues to this day.

Since then, every vintage of Mouton Rothschild has showcased a label created by a different esteemed artist, transforming the bottles into coveted collector's items. The list of artists who have contributed reads like a who's who of the art world: Picasso, Kandinsky, Dalí, Bacon, Warhol, Koons, Hockney – the list goes on. These labels reflected the eclectic personality of Mouton Rothschild and its connection to the wider cultural world. It's even said that the artists are compensated not just with money but with bottles of Mouton Rothschild!

Much of Mouton's success can also be attributed to the charisma of Baron Philippe. He was a talented spokesperson for the estate, persistently campaigning for Mouton's elevation to First Growth status. He understood the power of persuasion, and used his charm and influence on bureaucrats, wine brokers and intellectual circles of Paris to garner support for his cause.

Baron Philippe with his wife, Elisabeth, shortly after their marriage in 1935.

Equally, Philippe would frequently visit the estate in Pauillac to oversee its operations and take a hands-on role in both the business and creative aspects of the winery, transforming it into a destination where visitors could experience the world of Mouton firsthand. He also created a superb museum of wine in art, showcasing the history of winemaking and the rich heritage of the estate.

Finally, in 1973, after decades of relentless campaigning, Philippe's efforts were rewarded. Jacques Chirac, then Minister of Agriculture, signed the decree officially elevating Château Mouton Rothschild to First Growth status. It was a historic moment marked the culmination of Philippe's lifelong dream and solidified Mouton's place among the elite châteaux of Bordeaux. In response to this momentous occasion, Philippe, with his characteristic wit, adopted the motto: First I am. Second I was. Mouton doesn't change. This motto is inscribed in French on the label of the 1973 vintage.

Adversity and Triumph

Philippe’s journey was not without adversity. The outbreak of World War II cast a long shadow over prominent Jewish families across Europe. Targeted by the Nazis, Baron Philippe fled his beloved Mouton and sought refuge in Britain. His wife, Elisabeth, was tragically less fortunate. She was arrested by the Gestapo in 1944 and deported to Ravensbrück concentration camp, where she perished. She was one of the few members of the Rothschild family to die in the Holocaust.

During the war, Château Mouton Rothschild fell into the hands of the German forces. The occupying forces, led by the Weinführer (meaning wine leader – who would have guessed?), used the château as a military headquarters and to produce wine. The vineyards, though largely spared from destruction, suffered from neglect, and the château itself was looted of many of its treasures.

The coveted 1945 vintage was produced shortly after the end of World War II by Baron Philippe who returned to supervise the harvest. The label defiantly display the words "Année de la Victoire," meaning "The Year of Victory" (Source: Christie's)

After the war, Philippe returned to Mouton, determined to reclaim his heritage. But Philippe, with his characteristic resilience, worked to restore Mouton to its former glory, a promise he would more than fulfil in the years to come.

In 1954, Philippe found love again, marrying the vivacious Pauline Fairfax-Potter, an American designer and socialite. She supported Philippe's artistic endeavours, including the famous label art project, and helped to cultivate Mouton's image as a cultural hub across the world.

Mouton in the New World

Even after Mouton’s elevation to Premier Cru, Philippe continued to push boundaries and innovate outside of Bordeaux. In the 1970s, he sought to connect with American winemakers and consumers, demonstrating that he was not just a "snobbish French wine aristocrat." This lead to a famous partnership with Robert Mondavi, the pioneer of Californian winemaking, to create world-class Bordeaux-style wine in Napa Valley under the Opus One brand.

Robert Mondavi (left) with Baron Philippe.

After Baron Philippe's death in 1988, the torch was passed to his daughter, Baroness Philippine de Rothschild. Beautiful Philippine was an actress and also possessed her father's flair and charisma. She further developed Mouton's international presence, partnering with Chile’s Concha y Toro to create Viña Almaviva - one of Chile's most iconic prestige wines. This expansion into the New World demonstrated Mouton's commitment to exploring new terroirs.

Baroness Philippine with Eduardo Guilisasti Tagle, Chairman of Chile's Viña Concha y Toro announcing their Viña Almaviva partnership.

She was survived by her three children, Camille, Philippe and Julien, who continue to uphold the estate's legacy.

The Vines

The vineyards of Mouton Rothschild are divided into two main blocks: the Mouton plateau which is the heart of the estate and the Carruades plateau, which lies just south. The Mouton plateau is a prized site which boasts magnificent gravel soil that reaches depths of up to 8 meters (26 feet). These deep gravel beds, formed by ancient alluvial deposits, provide excellent drainage, preventing waterlogging and encouraging the vines to develop deep root systems. Grapes here tend to give wines that have a brighter profile, and more toasty notes. Beneath the gravel lies a layer of iron-rich sand, which also contributes mineral notes.

The Carruades plateau is of fine gravel and sandy soils over limestone, and the grapes from the Caruades tend to give wines that are more powerful and fleshy than that of the Mouton plateau.

Bordeaux's damp, Atlantic-influenced environment has historically made it difficult to implement organic farming. However, the shift toward organic viticulture has gradually influenced practices in these classic estates. More than one quarter of the Mouton Rothschild estate is currently being managed organically.

Grapes are rigorously sorted and only the best are reserved or vinification. Of the red grapes grown, the vines are a mix of about 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot.

Winemaking at Mouton Rothschild

Since 2012, the winery has also been revamped into a gravity-fed design that removes the use of air pumps and minimises oxidation through every step of the winemaking process. This preserves the freshness of the grapes and its nuances.

Mouton Rothschild is one of the few Bordeaux estates that use oak fermentation vats for vinification, whereas other First Growths primarily use stainless steel or concrete vats. These oak vats add a subtle complexity and texture to the wine. At the same time, the winemaker carefully watches the fermentation temperature, ensuring a gentle extraction with no harsh or bitter flavours. Most of the malolactic fermentation also takes place in the fermentation vats – a process that gently softens the acidity of the wine by turning malic acid into lactic acid.

After blending, the wine is aged for about 18 months in new oak barrels that are given a medium toast. The estate previously favoured heavier toasting but has since transitioned to a medium toast, believing it better enhances the wine's elegance and finesse.

Funnily enough, the estate was initially hesitant to introduce a second wine. The late former director, Philippe Cottin, voiced his concern that a second wine could discourage the winemakers from giving their best efforts to the grand vin. Thankfully for the non-billionaires within our midst, he later changed his mind. The more accessible second wine is named Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild and is aged with a lower proportion of new oak at 60%.

The Mouton Rothschild Style

Baron Philippe Sereys de Rothschild, the current owner of the estate.

Mouton Rothschild is a wine of power and flamboyance. Even amongst the First Growths, Mouton Rothschild is often considered the richest and fleshiest, a wine that embraces its hedonistic side. Critics describe it to possess a ripeness and voluptuousness that can be associated with New World Cabernet Sauvignon, with velvety tannins and balanced acidity.

In good vintages, Mouton explodes with sweet and toasty aromas, interwoven with notes of cedar, woodsmoke, and tobacco. And if you pay close attention, there should be some subtle tones of graphite to reflect the iron-rich soils of the Mouton plateau. Mouton tends to get more intense as it ages, with fruits developing incredible depth and concentration, while retaining remarkable freshness and vibrancy as it matures.

But of course, we have with us an entire flight of Mouton Rothschild here for a taste ourselves and a field report!

Château Mouton Rothschild 1996 – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: Great concentration of fruit, leaning towards darker, well-integrated notes of plum and blackcurrant. There's a distinct earthiness present, with aromas of fresh soil and aromatic tobacco, alongside hints of pencil shavings and old books (vellichor). There’s an emergent animalistic note, like horse fur, along with very subtle floral hints of rose and potpourri.

Palate: Medium-bodied, the palate bursts with black fruit flavours - blackcurrants and a distinct plum wine character. It's brambly and green, with tons of fresh parsley notes and a touch of pepper. Gradually, a nice minerality and slate-like note emerges, followed by grandpa’s cigar boxes.

Finish: Long and drawn out, with a light mintiness and chalkiness. More graphite notes appear, along with raw green pepper and the sweetness of blackcurrant gummies. An interesting rustic note of horse hair and walnut nuttiness.

My Thoughts:

This is a very complex and well-integrated wine. It shows a full fruitiness alongside a just-as-present earthiness, accented with green, herbaceous elements and those slate-like mineral notes that reflect some of the distinctive terroir of Mouton.

My rating: 92/100

Château Mouton Rothschild 1995 – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: Clear notes of sweet dried plums are immediately apparent, with blackcurrant and blackberry brambles intertwining with raspberry, accented by hints of eucalyptus and fennel. There’s an earthy undercurrent, reminiscent of a damp forest floor, dried shiitake mushrooms and hay, but with the fruitiness always present in the backdrop. After some swirling of the glass, light tobacco notes begin to develop.

Palate: Luscious and fleshy, the palate is filled with a deep, fresh fruitiness with a nice medium body. Blackberry and cassis dominate, reminding me of the bright notes of Ribena, though well-balanced and not overly sweet. Fruit character is accompanied by a rather prominent graphite note and a subtle earthiness of forest floor.

Finish: Fruitiness fade quickly on the finish, giving way to a dark oak char note, some ash and smoke. A light anchovy savouriness lingers, along with just a touch of graphite.

My Thoughts:

This is a really fruity and luscious one! While both vintages are undeniably fruity, the fruit notes in the 1995 are much more prominent due to their clarity and the absence of the funkier, more rustic tobacco and Brettanomyces-influenced notes found in the 1996. There’s also a clearer focus on dried plums and a brighter, cleaner fruit profile than the 1996, with the tannins also a bit lighter.

This wine would appeal to those seeking a ripe and fruit-forward experience. Personally though, I find myself more captivated by the complexity of the 1996, especially with its added rusticity and tobacco nuances.

My Rating: 91/100

Château Mouton Rothschild 1993 – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: What an evocative nose! It opens with a wave of raspberries, cherries and prunes intertwined with a strong presence of brett, horse fur, fresh soil and hay that make the raspberry and cherries really pop. Some initial tobacco notes then evolve towards liquorice, mint, cocoa powder, graphite, and more fruitiness of dried plums.

Palate: Great balance, and appears more terroir-driven. It showcases both fruit concentration and earthy undertones with a silky tannic texture. Opens with very ripe and rich raspberries, blackcurrants that that quickly transitions towards more graphite, slate and minerality. A bit of tertiary notes of soy sauce emerges, along with a touch of green pepper.

Finish: Medium-long in duration, the finish is lightly mineral with continued notes of slate and graphite and a chalky texture. Light tobacco notes persist and raspberry makes a reappearance.

My Thoughts:

This vintage offers a compelling balance of rusticity, minerality and ripeness. The nose is particularly expressive with its rustic notes. On the palate, I enjoyed the lovely harmony between the terroir and the fruit, with abundant red fruits balanced by a steely dimension of graphite and minerality.

This appears to be the ripest of this entire range, demonstrating how further ageing tends to bring out more fruit concentration in Mouton Rothschild, while still remaining very well-balanced by other tertiary notes and the influence of the terroir.

My Rating: 93/100

Château Mouton Rothschild 1990 – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: A very a classic Bordeaux style, and an evocative one at that. It showcases much more tart red fruits like raspberry, hawthorn tanghulu, along with lots of black fruit character with an overtone of leafiness. Followed by graphite notes, then a rich aroma of roses and heady potpourri, soil, black tea and tobacco, with a subtle spice of anise.

Palate: Full of tart red fruits, a nice lively acidity and a touch of dark fruits; it has a medium body and a quite silky texture. It opens sweet and surprisingly flavourful with lots of raspberry and blackberry fruit and a bit of salinity. Very clean initially, it gradually develops a slight vellichor note, joined by lovely tobacco and savouriness.

Finish: Clean with a light savouriness of soy sauce. A ripe tart raspberry character persists throughout along with blackcurrants, and some rose hints eventually peeking in at the end.

My Thoughts:

This is the most middle-of-the-road, classically Bordeaux style of the four wines. It's very fresh and ripe, and very drinkable with soft tannins, and I especially enjoyed the rich floral potpourri notes.

Interestingly, it doesn't seem to have as clear a Mouton terroir; the graphite minerality I'd come to expect after tasting the earlier vintages seem to be less pronounced in this vintage. And for that reason, I’d say this is a style that would likely appeal to the widest range of connoisseurs.

My Rating: 92/100

Château Mouton Rothschild 1985 – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: Truly exquisite on the nose— it’s evocative, complex and well-balanced, and it's the most aromatic of the entire range. Concentrated fruit aromas emerge, with ripe red raspberries joined by blackberry, sarsaparilla and brambles. All that then evolves towards a subtle rusticity and tannic element, with notes of black tea, a clean ashiness, tobacco, barnyard, and just a touch of rose.

Palate: Remarkably balanced, clean, silky, with a medium body with a supple texture and a very satisfying depth. It's also perfectly cohesive and integrated. Very ripe, almost stewed red fruits dominate; strawberry compote and raspberries, interwoven with cassis. All the flavours are well-calibrated and present themselves very harmoniously – almost like a musical where each character knows its exact place and line to sing. A hint of mint emerges, followed by slate and graphite.

Finish: Rather a short finish, with lingering notes of blackberry and raspberry. A very light touch of liquorice appears alongside a chalky texture, roses, black tea, and the comforting light mustiness of entering an old law library.

My Thoughts:

The 1985 vintage is in its perfect drinking window and really exemplifies the fruity depths, balance and finesse a mature Mouton Rothschild can offer. It has opened up very beautifully with tons of tertiary notes, and it's supple, rich and concentrated with fantastic depth. On the palate, this is so very flavourful and the integration is seamless, with every component playing its part, but not overstaying its welcome. It’s without a doubt the most delicious of the vintages I’ve tasted.

My Rating: 97/100

Final Thoughts

This flight of Mouton Rothschild has given us such a fascinating look into the aging potential and evolution of this iconic First Growth estate as we progressed through the vintages.

Ripe, vibrant fruits has been a defining feature across all vintage, but there’s a noticeable shift in character. The 1995 and 1996 vintages appear to offer some fresh primary fruit notes but from 1993 onwards to 1990 and 1985 we seem to be seeing an interesting combination of fresh and dried fruits, along with a beautiful emergence of tart red fruits in the form of raspberries and sometimes hawthorn. For the most part – at least for 4 out of 5 of these vintages, there’s been a rather clear expression of the Mouton terroir, with 1993 as the best example that showcases and impressive combo of fruit concentration before transitioning into this rather austere graphite and mineral note.

Earthiness has also been a hallmark here, and this flight beautifully illustrated its development. The younger vintages have given us fresh soil and forest floor notes, but as we progress, older vintages have shown us how this mellows into rather complex aromatics of hay, tobacco and black tea. On this note, the flavourful 1985 vintage has been the most compelling experience of this flight. It seamlessly combines both ripe fruit elements and earthiness with soft tannins that have been softened and beautifully integrated. It drinks perfectly at its current age, and nicely encapsulates the allure of a First Growth wine that has been given sufficient time to reach its full potential.

@CharsiuCharlie