Over the past four decades, the Chilean fine-wine landscape has undergone a remarkable transformation, and at the heart of this revolution stands the iconic Don Melchor, widely regarded as Chile’s first prestige wine that has rewritten the narrative of Chilean winemaking. It debuted in 1987 at Viña Concha y Toro, a winery that had already carved a significant niche for itself in the Chilean wine industry.

Viña Concha y Toro’s roots stretch back to 1883 when Melchor Concha y Toro (the namesake of Don Melchor wine), a former Chilean Minister of Finance, and his wife, Emiliana Subercaseaux, embarked on their winemaking journey. Inspired by the wines of Bordeaux, they imported classic French grape varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Merlot, and even Carmenère, a grape that had all but disappeared from its native France but found a thriving new home in Chile.

The winery flourished through the mid- to late 20th century, gradually expanding its vineyards and refining its winemaking techniques. In 1966, they introduced the famous Casillero del Diablo brand, a wine that would become synonymous with Chilean wine around the world. Then, the launch of Don Melchor in 1987 was a bold step into the realm of ultra-premium wines. The wine was of course named after the visionary founder of Viña Concha y Toro, and was intended to be a testament to his legacy.

Concha y Toro is today the leading wine producer and exporter in Latin America with a large portfolio, from the accessible Casillero del Diablo to the prestigious Don Melchor. Its influence extends beyond its own vineyards. It is one of the main sponsors of Manchester United FC since 2010 and in 1997, they joined forces with the renowned Baron Philippe de Rothschild of Château Mouton Rothschild to create Viña Almaviva – a partnership aimed to marry Chilean terroir with French winemaking with Chilean vineyards planted from the cuttings of the renowned Rothschild vineyards.

Viña Almaviva estate in Chile was co-founded in 1998 by the renowned Rothschild wine family in partnership with Concha y Toro

Despite being part of Concha y Toro, Don Melchor now operates as an independent unit. It boasts its own dedicated winemaking and viticultural team, along with a state-of-the-art winery. This autonomy ensures that Don Melchor remains true to its vision and continues to push the boundaries of Chilean winemaking.

Since the 1997 harvest, the reins of Don Melchor's production have been in the capable hands of the charismatic Enrique Tirado. Tirado's journey in winemaking began in the early 1990s; after studying agronomy at Pontificia Universidad Católica de Chile, spent a year in Bordeaux before joining Concha y Toro, where his talent and expertise quickly shone through. In 1997, Tirado was appointed chief winemaker of Don Melchor. He also works with renowned French wine consultant Jacques Boissenot and, later, his son Eric Boissenot, forging a unique blend of Chilean terroir and French winemaking philosophy.

At its core, Don Melchor is a classic Bordeaux-style blend, with Cabernet Sauvignon taking up 90 to 95% of the blend with small amounts of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. It also showcases the terroir of the Puente Alto sub-region, on the northern bank of the Maipo River.

The Don Melchor vineyard itself is a sight to behold, spanning 127 hectares and comprising 7 primary parcels and 151 micro plots, set against the dramatic backdrop of the Andes Mountains. This is a high-altitude vineyard, nestled at the foothills of the Andes with well-drained alluvial soils, contributing to vibrant acidity.

The mountains provide a protective shield, while the river's moderating influence and the significant diurnal temperature variation (cool nights and warm days) create ideal conditions for growth and grape ripening. Tirado describes the vineyard's soil as a "mosaic of Andean soil," an alluvial mix of stone, sand, and clay. This diverse composition provides excellent drainage and nutrient restriction, forcing the vines to dig deep and produce grapes of exceptional concentration and intensity. The vines themselves range in age from 45 to 15 years.

Tirado's winemaking philosophy revolves around capturing the authentic essence of Puente Alto and maintaining a consistent style across vintages. He believes in minimal intervention, allowing the grapes to express their true character and the terroir to shine through. A well-aged glass of Don Melchor is said to be bold and structured, with deep flavours of dark fruits with influences of oak aging and with remarkable elegance, finesse, and vibrancy.

I have with me a bottle of Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon of the 2020 vintage tasted at Angra Wine & Spirits’ portfolio tasting. This is a blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc, 1% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot. It’s also spent 15 months in French oak with 71% new and 29% refill barrels.

Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 – Review

Nose: Lovely mix of fruity and oaky aspects on the first whiff. Ripe red fruits – primarily dark cherries - mingle with a touch of cocoa powder, tobacco a rather noticeable rustic barnyard scent (Brett). There’s also a delicate hint of fresh violets in the background. Surprisingly complex!

Palate: Medium-bodied with a velvety texture and firm tannins. Opens a little more austere with earthiness, espresso and aromatic oak before vibrant fruit jamminess break through. A subtle backdrop of mint and rosemary add some herbal complexity. It drinks like a very precise and elegant wine, striking a nice balance between well-calibrated boldness, acidity, fruitiness and earthy notes.

Finish: Long, leaving behind echoes of espresso, cocoa, and a final whisper of tobacco. There’s the briefest flash of violets and roses.

My Thoughts

This is delicious. I think this would stun a newcomer to Chilean wines. It certainly captures the essence of a powerful and yet refined Bordeaux red, showcasing a remarkable balance between vibrant fruit and well-integrated earthiness and oak. This certainly lives up to its name as Chile’s first prestige wine.

Now, while I appreciate the complexity, I wouldn't mind a bit more floral prominence to complement the existing aromas. To that end, I should note that this is only a 2020 vintage – several more years of aging should further loosen up those firm tannins and reveal even more tertiary notes. I should also point out the noticeable barnyard rusticity, though not unpleasant, might not resonate with those seeking a purely classic "Left Bank" Pauillac profile that many have come to associate with Don Melchor for seeking to recreate.

Overall, this is a remarkable Chilean Cabernet that confidently holds its own against Old World wines. It gives us pretty decent immediate pleasure but also great promise as it ages.

My Rating: 88/100

@CharsiuCharlie