Jean Foillard has over the past four decades become one of the pre-eminent producers in France's Beaujolais. And whilst the region is probably more widely known for producing light reds (of the Gamay variety) that show a more confectionary profile of bubblegum and bananas, Foillard has become known for producing a richer, more intense and rustic style of Beaujolais Gamay.

This comes from a formative moment in his earlier winemaking years where he (along with a handful of others, collectively known as the Gang of Four - Marcel Lapierre, Jean-Paul Thevenet, Guy Breton and Foillard) had begun to work off the principles espoused by Jules Chauvet, who is credited for bringing natural wine-making to the region. This meant reviving traditional methods of both viticulture and viniculture - how the fruit is grown, and how it is turned into wine.

Jean Foillard.

Foillard and his wife had taken over the Domaine in 1980 from his father, having come from a family of vignerons. And whilst the Domaine laid on prized land - the high slope Cote du Py area outside of the Villie-Morgon commune - it was Foillard that raised it to the cult-like status that it enjoys today, with both what he's made of it, and how he's enlarged the vineyards (subsequently expanding to the Fleurie commune as well).

The 14 hectare vineyards grow on decomposed granite and schist soils, sitting on the highest elevation in the commune, and are grown with incredibly old vines that go beyond a century old. Combined with the practice of natural farming (not anything artificial to the soils), harvesting late, rigorous sorting and selection of grapes, minimal to no sulfur use, and forgoing chaptalisation (adding sugar during fermentation) and filtration, using only old Burgundy barrels (to reduce oak flavours), this all allows the wines to express itself in the most intense and natural fashion showcasing purity of the terroir. They've got some serious ageing potential too, but can just as well be drunk young.

Jean Foillard has four primary labels worth noting - the most renown is the Morgon Cote du Py, and as an extension there's the Morgon 3.14 which comes from vines older than 100 years old, and the Morgon Cuvee Corcelette which comes from 80 year old vines and is alittle more accessible. Then there's also the newer Fleurie which comes from Foillard's expansion into the Fleurie commune.

Today we're going to try the Morgon Cuvee Corcelette, this comes from the Morgon vineyards that's farmed organically, it follows a traditional vinification with whole cluster fermentation for 3-4 weeks, fermentation is spontaneous with ambient yeast. It's then aged for 6-9 months in used oak barrels (at least 2 years old) and large foudres to minimise oak flavours. It's then bottled unfiltered with no sulfur added.

Let's give this a go!

Jean Foillard Morgon Cuvee Corcelette 2022 - Review

Tasting Notes

Colour: Deep Purple, Blackcurrant Cordial

Aroma: Opens up to rich and concentrated notes of dried currants, with a well-integrated perfumed but gentle game-y aroma of dried meats - it's soft yet rich, with nice depth. Brighter notes of dried strawberries pop up intermittently giving it some vibrance too. More on loamy earthiness of toiled soil and tobacco leaves. There's some barnyard funkiness from the brett that's present but not big, lending to the bouquet some horse fur - it's backed up by lots of richness that tones down the saturation. With time some dried blackberries appear as well.

Incredibly expressive with a rich aroma that's open and perfumed; it's all very well interwoven, predominantly of gamey meats and dried fruits, occasionally brightened by some strawberries, along with some earthiness backing it up.

Taste: The richness carries through to the palate, where it's a fuller bodied stream of blackcurrant cordials and jams harmonised with an oily savouriness of charcuterie meats seasoned with whole black peppercorns. Big and bold flavours, with depth and richness, yet at the same time not heavy. It's body is velvety, silky smooth yet firm. Some raspberry jam emerges lending the body some brighter tones.

Finish: More flint and smoke here, with then a vibrant burst of blackberry jam hitting just a few seconds in. More of that barnyard funkiness of dried bresaola, tobacco leaves and horse fur. Takes a more dry turn from the tannins which adds tension and a nice textural contrast.

My Thoughts

An absolutely staggering wine - it's got great presence and richness, muscular in structure, bold in flavour, yet plush and velvety on the body, with a nice depth to it. And on top of all of that, manages to weave in some spontaneity with that barnyard funkiness keeping it racy and vibrant - not dominating or over the top, along with the periodic red berries that brightens the otherwise darker richness. It's fresh, full-bodied yet not heavy, with good integration and expressiveness. Into the finish, the soft but firm tannins shows more dryness that adds some tension to the plush richness. Let's see what else I noted down "great complexity, textural nuance, cohesive and rounded..."

This wine frankly has it all. It covers well all its bases in terms of positive attributes, with really just a matter of a few splitting hairs from being pretty much perfect - if the red berries came through more, and it shaved down some of its roundedness to make way for more detail, with alittle more acidity to balance out the richness. But again, splitting hairs really. An absolutely, absolutely immense wine. Super impressive.