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Wine Reviews

Taste Testing Château Bélair-Monange from the Heart of Bordeaux's Right Bank

 

Saint-Émilion is widely considered as the most prestigious appellation in Bordeaux’s Right Bank. And among the rolling vineyards of this landscape, Château Bélair-Monange stands tall – quite literally.

 

(Source: Iwan Baan)

 

It is perched atop a hill on the highest point of Saint-Émilion, its vineyards bask in the sun, offering a stunning vista of the surrounding terroir. But this elevated position isn't just about the view – it's a key factor in the exceptional quality of Bélair-Monange's wines. The steep limestone slopes provide excellent drainage, forcing the vines to burrow deeper into the limestone-rich soils in search of water and nutrients. This struggle results in grapes of concentrated flavours of red and dark fruits, minerality and complexity that defines the estate's signature style which focuses on Merlot grapes. In fact, for its prime terrior and quality of its wines, Château Bélair (as it was then known) has since the 1800s been recognised as the leading winemaker of Saint-Émilion by Cocks & Feret, the revered bible to Bordeaux wines.

 

 

The estate's long history traces back to the Ancient Romans who first cultivated these lands - their legacy can still be felt today, with remnants of Roman villas and ancient stone structures scattered throughout the vineyards. The vineyard was planted in the early 1700s by the Canolle family and later revitalised by the Challon family who also owned the neighbouring Château Ausone.

 

 

In the 2000s, influential Bordeaux wine merchant house (known as a négociant) Ets. Jean-Pierre Moueix acquired the estate. It was at this point that the estate was renamed to Château Bélair-Monange, “Monange” being the last name of then-owner Christian Moueix’s grandmother. Under Ets. JP Moueix, Château Bélair-Monange underwent further revitalisation as a wine estate, and the estate was expanded under a merger with the nearby Château Magdelaine. Under the ownership of Ets. JP Moueix, wine critics have lauded the marked improvement to the quality of wines from Bélair-Monange, which is said to now offer a richer, more full-bodied texture and mouthfeel.

 

 

Château Bélair-Monange produces a Merlot-focused grand vin of the same name and a second wine called the “Annonce”, because it signifies the announcement or introduction of the estate’s quality and style to a broader audience. The label even shows an angel with a long trumpet which suggests how proud Moueix is of the work that it has done with Bélair-Monange’s wine. There is even a third wine called the Haut Roc Blanquant, which is made from a selection of grapes offering charm, elegance, and approachability from a young age.

 

 

Now, as a major wine négociant, Ets. JP Moueix has over the years acquired several highly regarded estates on the Right Bank of Bordeaux, including the famous Château Pétrus.

 

 

Its influence also extends beyond Bordeaux to the Napa Valley in California where it owns several highly-regarded wine estates such as Dominus Estate and Ulysses Vineyard, both of which produce Bordeaux-style wine blends that emphasise the unique characteristics of Napa Valley's terroir and climate.

 

 

It’s evening in Singapore, and I’m seated at a tasting led by none other than Alice Rey, the Southeast Asia Area Manager for the Moueix Family wine business.

 

 

Rey is a charming host, her passion for wine is infectious as she gives us a whirlwind tour of the massive portfolio of Moueix, name-dropping legendary estates like Pétrus and Dominus with the casual air of someone discussing their family's holiday home to a room of enthusiasts, abuzz with anticipation. She then led us through a tasting of 4 wines from Bélair-Monange. Let’s give these wines a taste.

 

Annonce de Bélair-Monange 2018, St Emilion Grand Cru – Review

2nd wine, 98% Merlot and 2% Cabernet franc, 25 years average vine age, aged for 12 months in French oak barrels.

 

 

Tasting Notes

Nose: Opens with a jammy allure; together notes of dark cherries and berries with hints of tobacco, hay, and just an earthy touch of brett. A subtle slate-like minerality adds some elegance. A whisper of liquorice lingers in the background.

Palate: The palate delivers a well-structured wine with vibrant acidity. A cascade of red and dark fruits mingle with a pronounced stony minerality that forms the wine's backbone. It's substantial and dense, generously fruity without being overly sweet. The tannins are moderate and smooth, with a touch of tobacco emerging as the wine breathes.

Finish: The finish is on the sweeter side but somewhat short, leaving behind a lingering sweetness of dark fruits. Despite its brevity, it’s noticably clean and luscious, devoid of any tannic bite or dryness.

 

 

My Thoughts:

While designated as the second wine, this Annonce is far from a mere understudy of the grand vin. This offers very captivating complexity on the nose and an impressive balance on the palate. It's a fruit-forward and flavourful wine that's not afraid to show its personality. The absence of dryness, along with its smooth and rounded nature, also make it very approachable and enjoyable for newcomers to Bordeaux. At its price range, this is certainly a strong testament to the quality and craftsmanship of Château Bélair-Monange. And if anything, the jammy intensity of this second vin (contrasted with the slightly more austere grand vin) could make it a bit more appealing to newcomers to Bordeaux wines.

Annonce de Bélair-Monange 2019, St Emilion Grand Cru – Review

2nd wine, 98% Merlot and 2% Cabernet franc, 25 years average vine age, aged for 12 months in French oak barrels.

 

 

Tasting Notes

Nose: An interesting refreshing contrast compared to its predecessor. The nose greets me with a cleaner, more luscious aroma. Red fruits take centre stage, bursting forth with vibrancy and purity. While less complex than the 2018, it possesses an undeniable elegance with a delicate perfumed violets aroma. There's a notable absence of brett and just a whisper of earthiness, allowing more of the fruit to shine.

Palate: Noticeably sweeter on the palate, a basket of ripe berries and a bouquet of floral notes, with a bit of sweet smelling roses and violets. The tannins are powdery soft and do not grip the tongue, while a lively acidity keeps things fresh without overpowering the palate. There’s also a subtle coppery minerality beneath the fruit.

Finish: Rather short and rounded, leaving a lingering sweetness tinged with a faint copper note, along with hint of leathery tannins and a touch of dryness.

 

 

My Thoughts:

This is undeniably intense and it seems that the sunlight and warmth of the 2019 Bordeaux vintage shines through. It may lack some of the 2018's complexity on the nose, but it more than makes up for it with more elegance and a fruit-forward nose. The palate is an absolute joy, bursting with plush fruit, captivating sweetness, florals and a beautifully balanced structure. While the finish reveals a slightly drier and tannic side, this young wine seems to promise even greater things with a bit more time in the bottle. With a bit more patient cellaring to mellow the tannins and promote more tertiary notes, I think this could surpass its already enjoyable 2018 sibling.

Château Bélair-Monange 2019, St Emilion Grand Cru, 1er Grand Cru Classé – Review

96% Merlot and 4% Cabernet franc, 25 years average vine age, aged for 16 to 18 months in French oak barrels.

 

 

We then move on to the Château Bélair-Monange 2018, the estate's grand vin. This is the wine that put Bélair-Monange on the map, a testament to the Moueix family's dedication to quality.

Tasting Notes

Nose: A captivating blend of fresh red fruits and delicate floral notes, with a touch of earthiness adding depth. There is a touch of oak and vanilla sweetness, along with whispers of dry leaves and hay that evoke a barnyard.

Palate: Very exquisitely integrated. Red fruits intertwine seamlessly with floral notes of violet and rose, all underpinned by a stony, slate-like minerality. The tannins are remarkably smooth and there’s also a touch of lactic acidity lends a creamy richness, perhaps a result of malolactic fermentation. While the Annonce charmed with its fruit-forward nature, this grand vin seems to showcase a very intentional elegance where fruit, minerality, and tannins all achieve a harmonious balance.

Finish: Rounded and sweet, a lingering bit of dark fruits punctuated by oak and a hint of espresso. Subtle leatheriness emerges alongside the tannins, but it remains remarkably soft and smooth.

 

 

My Thoughts:

Tasting this grand vin is akin to transitioning from milk chocolate to dark— it’s a journey into deeper, more complex flavours. While undeniably more austere (less sweet, more mineral) than its younger siblings, the grand vin’s beauty lies in its precision and restraint - the contrasting flavours are balanced on knife’s edge. The fruit is present, but it's the masterful interplay of minerality and tannins that leaves a very lasting impression. There is exceptional integration, structure and balance.

Château Bélair-Monange 2020, St Emilion Grand Cru, 1er Grand Cru Classé – Review

98% Merlot and 2% Cabernet franc, 25 years average vine age, aged for 16 to 18 months in French oak barrels.

 

 

Tasting Notes

Nose: Brimming with fresh, fleshy red fruits, grounded by a touch of earthiness - a subtle tobacco note weaves through while heady violet scents add beautiful a layer of floral complexity.

Palate: Intensity and richness define the palate. It’s rich, rounded with a basket of ripe plums, powdery tannins, while a wave of perfumed rose washes over the senses, mingling with the dominant black and red fruit flavours. Tannins are much more pronounced here, gradually taking over the palate to offer a firm structure and acidity that's somewhat balanced by the wine's inherent fruitiness.

Finish: Clean and decidedly fruity, with the aromatic oak gradually revealing itself. Tannins and a hint of spice make a brief appearance before fading away, leaving a lingering impression of ripe fruit.

 

 

My Thoughts:

What a powerhouse of a wine! The 2020 vintage, vintage in Bordeaux was known for allowing grapes to reach full maturity and concentration, and this Bélair-Monange seems to embody that ripeness.

It's a powerful and intense expression of St. Emilion, showcasing a captivating interplay of fruitiness and perfumed rose aromas. While the nose reveals layers of complexity, the overall experience is dominated by the weight of dark fruit and substantial tannins. This dominance of dark fruits and tannins, while not unpleasant, makes it slightly more challenging to fully appreciate the wine's subtler nuances of minerality and earthiness I've enjoyed in other vintages.

The balance feels a touch off here, but the potential is undeniable, but given how aromatic and fruity this has been, there is undeniable potential for greatness. This bottle deserves a few more years of cellaring to allow the tannins to soften and the flavours to integrate. I have a feeling that with time, it could surpass all the Bélair-Monanges I've tasted thus far.

Final Thoughts on Bélair-Monange

My journey through these Bélair-Monange wines has left me thoroughly impressed. A remarkable aspect of these wines is the impeccable integration and remarkably smooth tannins across the board. This makes them incredibly approachable and enjoyable, regardless of your level of wine expertise.

Interestingly, this range is also pretty versatile – I find that both the grand vin and the second vin offer equal enjoyment to different sorts of consumers. The Annonce wines have such an exuberant fruitiness with a rounded, approachable nature, and they’re a delightful introduction to the world of Bordeaux, especially for those who began their wine journey loving the bold flavours of jammy Italian or Barossa Valley wines.

The grand vins, on the other hand – especially the well-aged 2019 Château Bélair-Monange – would impress those who gravitate towards classic Bordeaux reds. They’re more austere and reveal a deeper, more nuanced character with complexity, structure, and finesse. And while they may require a bit more time and contemplation to fully appreciate, at the right vintage, but I guarantee a profoundly fulfilling tasting experience.

@CharsiuCharlie