La Place de Bordeaux is a centuries-old club of the most prestigious French wine merchants and châteaux who have historically served as a gateway to Bordeaux's most prestigious wines. For a wine to be accepted into this exclusive circle is a testament to its exceptional quality; its association with La Place instantly serves as an endorsement in the eyes of collectors and connoisseurs worldwide.

This circle was originally reserved for esteemed Bordeaux wines, but La Place has in recent years cautiously opened their doors to a select few non-Bordeaux wines that have impressed négociants and discerning global buyers. Last year, Napa Valley’s Illumination Sauvignon Blanc joined this prestigious circle of wines, becoming one of the few non-Bordeaux wines to be distributed through La Place. Even more remarkably, it is the first white wine from Napa Valley to grace the hallowed halls of La Place, making it very much a rare breed.

This achievement is remarkable considering that the Illumination isn't even the flagship wine of its producer. Quintessa Wine Estate is a Cabernet-focused estate in Napa Valley, and originally conceived of Illumination as a white wine to be served to visitors alongside their famous Bordeaux-style estate blend. This Sauvignon Blanc–Semillon blend is made from grapes sourced from cooler, low-yielding blocks on the Quintessa estate, as well as select cool vineyards in Napa and Sonoma Counties. The result is a wine of remarkable depth and vibrant aromatics.

For a Napa Valley producer, Quintessa is a pretty unusual estate. Purchased in 1990 by Chilean couple Valeria and Agustin Huneeus, the estate itself was originally an untouched expense of grassland for cattle and oak-covered hills, and not a vineyard. It was the Huneeus who planted the vineyards. Admirably, they were committed to preserving the natural biodiversity of the land, and opted not to clear any oak trees from the estate. More than 100 acres of wild oak forest remain untouched, and the family planted vines on just 135 acres of land out of a possible 280.

Agustin Huneeus's connection to the wine world has already been well-established. He had been an early investor in Vina Concha y Toro, a Chilean wine giant known for its iconic brands like Casillero del Diablo and Don Melchor, and had risen to become its CEO at the remarkably young age of 27 in 1960. His wife, Valeria, brought her expertise as a microbiologist and viticulturist to the table, having worked in the Chilean wine industry before the couple's relocation to New York in 1971, necessitated by political upheaval in their homeland. In New York, Agustin’s wine career continued, as he took the helm of drinks giant Seagram's global wine operations, overseeing a vast network of wineries across nine countries.

It was in 1989, while exploring Napa Valley's Rutherford District in search of a suitable property near her husband, that Valeria chanced upon the land that would become Quintessa. This pristine expanse, never before planted with any crop, bordered the Napa River and boasted a diverse tapestry of soils. The Huneeus acquired the land the following year and embarked on their ambitious project, planting vines without clearing any trees, respecting the natural contours of the Waca Mountain Range. Committed to preserving the land's ecological integrity, they also adopted biodynamic farming practices from the outset, ensuring that the vineyard would remain free from pesticides and synthetic chemicals.

Initially, the couple sought viticultural advice from renowned winemakers from Bordeaux to New Zealand, who unanimously recommended focusing on Cabernet Sauvignon. However, as Agustin later admitted, this proved to be a misjudgment. You don’t know until you try it yourself. Quintessa's soils are a complex patchwork that reflect various geological histories and a range of growing conditions. It became clear that it was necessary to meticulously match grape varietals to the estate’s diverse terroir. Establishing the vineyard involved several rounds of trial and error, with Agustin deciding to replant approximately 30% of the property to make the best of the terroir.

The eastern portion of the estate is characterised by white, volcanic ash soils, known for their excellent drainage and ability to retain heat, ideal for slow-ripening Bordeaux red varieties. The mid-portion, surrounding the picturesque Dragon's Lake, features rocky soils composed of volcanic basalt and obsidian, imparting a unique minerality and complexity to the wines grown there. On the western edge, bordering the Napa River, alluvial gravel soils with fine silts and clays provide a fertile environment for both red and white varieties. The estate thus grows a range of red Bordeaux varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.

In a nod to their Chilean heritage, the Huneeus also planted Carménère, Chile's signature grape variety. They believed that Carménère, often referred to as the "lost grape of Bordeaux," would thrive in Napa's Mediterranean climate, which shares many similarities with that of Chile. Both regions experience warm, dry summers, cool, wet winters, and the moderating influence of the Pacific Ocean, with its cooling breezes and fog that help to preserve the grapes' freshness and acidity.

Each small plot within the vineyard is farmed, harvested and meticulously vinified separately, allowing the nuances of each parcel to shine through. They are then blended to create the estate wines. The winery itself reflects modern winemaking innovation and their low-intervention philosophy. A gravity-flow system gently moves the grapes and juice, minimising oxidation and preserving those delicate aromas and flavours. A variety of fermenters and tanks, including both French oak and stainless steel, are specially tailor-made to match the harvest from various blocks from the Quintessa vineyard.

(Source: David Chao)

The winery also houses two state-of-the-art Vaslin-Bucher JLB automated basket presses, that combines the gentle pressing of a traditional basket press with the efficiency and precision of modern automation. These presses are centrally located in the tank room and play a crucial role in gently extracting juices and tannins from the grapes.

(Source: Matt Cavano)

The result is Quintessa’s signature red blend that is filled with complex fruit flavours, precise structure, and vibrant freshness enhanced during the best growing seasons. Within the US, Quintessa's wines are so limited and coveted, they are sold exclusively through allocation.

For now, we’ll have a taste of the Illumination Sauvignon Blanc from the 2021 vintage. The winery described the 2021 growing season as a challenging yet rewarding one, with low rainfall and drought conditions leading to smaller canopies and lower yields. However, the cooler season allowed the fruit to ripen slowly, concentrating flavors and developing vibrant acidity. This unique blend of 50% Sauvignon Blanc Musqué, 30% Sauvignon Blanc, and 20% Semillon promises a wine of depth and complexity, with the Semillon adding a rounder mouthfeel to the final expression.

Quintessa, Illumination Sauvignon Blanc 2021 – Review

Nose: Delightful burst of tart gooseberries and delicate elderflowers, followed by a wave of tropical starfruit and langsat berries. This is really fruity on the nose, with a heady intensity of fresh tropical fruits and soapberry aromas. There’s a background of breadiness and champagne-like yeastiness along with a subtle hint of lemongrass and thyme adding a fresh herbal touch.

Palate: Sweeter than one might anticipate from a white, yet it avoids being cloying. Opens with remarkable richness and a pleasingly weighty mouthfeel thanks to the Semillon. Bright tartness of gooseberries and elderflowers takes centre stage, followed by vibrant acidic notes of pomelo and yuzu. The lively acidic backbone persists but the rich fruitiness keeps it from becoming overly dry or sour.

Finish: Long and full, with lingering notes of langsat and a fresh citric acidity. Interestingly reminiscent of Chardonnay - there's a touch of breadiness, a hint of oak, and even a subtle oily meatiness of game meats. Some gravelly minerality emerges towards the very end.

My Thoughts:

Impressive layers of richness. The fruit flavours are very clean, well-defined, and beautifully balanced with the lively acidity. I particularly love the complexities that unfold in the finish with some gaminess and breadiness that show up without becoming overpowering.

It's already really enjoyable now, but further ageing must yield even more captivating tertiary notes. A fantastic wine with potential for further development.

My Rating: 89/10

@CharsiuCharlie