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Wine Reviews

Reserve de la Comtesse Pauillac, Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande

 

The Pichon Comtesse de Lalande is one of Bordeaux's most recognisable names - and yet it tends to confuse some with its incredibly long name, that also happens to be rather similar to another chateau from Bordeaux.

The chateau's full name is the Domaine de Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande. And that's not to be confused with the neighbouring Chateau Longueville au Baron de Pichon-Longueville. Very confusing, no? For the sake of simplicity we'll call the former Pichon Comtesse (and in fact, some also call it Pichon Lalande), and we'll call the latter Pichon Baron. And as you might've guessed, they are both related. Indeed, they were even part of the same estate in their origins - one of the largest estates to exist in Bordeaux, in fact. 

 

Now which Pichon is which?

 

The original (and staggeringly massive) vineyard was first created by the illustrious Pierre Mazure de Rauzan. Rauzan was responsible for numerous top quality estates in Bordeaux from the two Pichon's, to Chateau Rauzan-Segla, Chateau Rauzan-Gassies and also Chateau Desmirail and Chateau Marquis de Terme - all of whom are classified estates. He himself was the estate manager of the legendary Chateau Latour, and so had a pretty good eye when it came to buying land around Pauillac during the late 1600's.

From there on, much of the estate's history can be read from its name.

Upon the marriage of Rauzan's daughter to an influential local politician, Jacques de Pichon Longueville, she would be gifted the estate (both parts of it!) as dowry. Under her husband's stewardship, the chateau would continue to prosper, and her husband, Jacques, would even go on to be recognised for his work as the first elected President of the Bordeaux Parliament.

 

Pichon Comtesse's chateau looks like it came right out of a fairytale.

 

They were then succeeded by their son, Baron Joseph de Pichon Longueville, who had taken over when he was just 19! He would preside over the massive estate until he was 90, and it was thus his final will that would significantly change the landscape of Bordeaux's Medoc region. On the eve of his passing - this was 1850 - he would decide to fairly divide his property between his five children. He had 2 sons and 3 daughters, and thus awarded his two sons two-fifths of the estate, and his daughters three-fifths of the estate. 

This was big as it set in motion the eventual splitting up of the estate into two - Pichon Comtesse (or Pichon Lalande) for the daughters, and Pichon Baron for the sons. With that in mind, these names seem to make a lot more sense. As two separate entities, the two estates now began to fortify their own unique styles as they are presented today! Under the daughters, they would have an outsized influence on the flavour profiles of the wines produced at Pichon Comtesse, opting for a signature more sensuous style that was known for being perfumed and rich.

 

Countess Virginie, who had built the chateau.

 

Up until the 2017 vintage, one of the beloved little motifs about Pichon Comtesse is that its second wine features a small portrait of a very elegant lady - this was Virginie de Pichon Longueville. She was one of the three daughters who had inherited the estate from their father the Baron. So why does she get her portrait on the label and not her sisters? Well, she was the person who built the chateau which has become the estate's icon! This was as she had married the Count of Lalande (making Virginie the Comtesse de Lalande), and had commissioned a famous architect to build the chateau in the likeness of the Hotel de Lalande located in Bordeaux, where her husband had grown up in. 

Over the next century and a half, the estate would only be owned by two families, that of the de Pichon Longueville's, and the Miailhe's who had came to acquire the estate later on. Thankfully the estate had always been very well-managed, and each set of hands that took its turn to helm the estate has done it better than the last. The estate grew in stature and size! In fact it grew more than 50% over the coming years. For over 250 years the estate built its esteem.

 

 

It was only until 2007 that the estate's new era would arrive - it would be acquired by the family behind the incredibly popular Roederer Champagne. Under the new owners, the estate's infrastructure was updated and steps were taken to improve the estate's wines (such as replantings, the conversion to biodynamic farming, and installing the facilities necessary for single parcel vinification), from the fields all the way to the cellars. All this has started to begin to pay off as the 2016 vintage was highly lauded by the wine community.

Going into the vineyards, the Chateau Pichon Comtesse is a 100-hectare vineyard planted with 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 3%Petit Verdot. Over the years, the estate has shifted to increase its planting of Cabernet Sauvignon, in place of the other varietals. The terroir of the estate can be characterised by deep gravel, with clay and limestone soils. Worth noting is that Pichon Comtesse is largely surrounding by the legendary Chateau Latour (and then also flanking Pichon Baron), and thus shares much of the same terroir. On average the vines are 40 years old, with the oldest vines being close to 90 years old, having been planted in the 1930's.

 

 

Vinification at the chateau is large scale and also done quite precisely in stainless steel vats, after which the wines are aged in 50% new French oak barrels for an average of 18 months.

Looking ahead to the future, Pichon Comtesse's fans can look forward to a greater showing of the estate's own white Bordeaux wine. Starting from the 2022 vintage, Pichon Comtesse had begun producing white wines for the first time in its history - a blend of Chardonnay and Savagnin.

Now to delve into the estate's second wine - the Reserve de la Comtesse (and since 2017, has been renamed the Pichon Comtesse Reserve, with an updated label that is without the Countess Virginie!) - this is produced from a blend of 49% Merlot, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 9% Petit Verdot. For the 2011 vintage, the estate produced equal amounts of the First Wine and the Second Wine, with a remaining 20% sold off in bulk. Fun Fact: Pichon Comtesse was amongst the first Bordeaux estates to make the second wine a permanent fixture in 1973, and has produced it every year since.

Let's go!

2011 Reserve de la Comtesse Pauillac, Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - Review

 

Tasting Notes 

Colour: Ruby

Aroma: Very much perfumed and sensual, classic Bordeaux style with those floral roses and violets, some light soil, a mix of blackcurrants and black cherries, yet here it's got great richness and lushness to it. Really fresh and perfumery, incredibly aromatic.

Taste: Big richness here, lots of raspberries burst forth, roses, violets, accompanied by some earthiness of fresh soil. It is velvety and silky, soft tannins, with a lightness to its flavours, a richness to its body and yet structured. It's fresh and quite vibrant. Very plush and aromatic, even some vanilla sauce here.

Finish: More minerality coming through, some light acidity, as well as a more earthy and spiced quality of tobacco leaves and cloves. Finishes off cleanly, and still with no tensing of the tannins.

 

My Thoughts 

This is very classically Bordeaux - it's a good showing of the style, perfumery, vibrant, fresh, leaning alittle sweeter, yet here there's more richness and very soft tannins. You can definitely feel the richness and plushness, velvety, yet despite the bigger notes, it's still structured and has good pacing without feeling floppy or flabby. The fruit and earthiness were well-integrated and balance, neither being led by the other - they all come through together and in equal parts. This doesn't lean dry, it's in fact alittle sweeter without going all the way to being jammy.

Very lovely display from Pichon Comtesse! A second wine that's worth its weight.

 

Kanpai!

 

@111hotpot