Gramercy Cellars emerged as a refreshing counterpoint in a world of American wines where bold flavours and oaky depths once reigned supreme. Founded in 2005 by Greg and Pam Harrington amidst the rolling vineyards of Walla Walla, Washington, this boutique winery quickly gained recognition for its acclaimed Bordeaux and the Rhône style wines, and is particularly credited for redefining Washington State Syrahs.

The Syrah varietal had been on a rollercoaster journey in Washington through the 2000s. Much like Napa's Cabernet or Australia's Shiraz, wine lovers have been on a quest to uncover Washington State’s signature grape. Thanks to Washington’s distinct climate of hot summers and cool nights, this seemed like a fantastic opportunity to produce Syrah with a unique profile—balancing Old World elegance with New World richness.

Walla Walla Valley in the south reaches of Washington State sees minimal rainfall and high fluctuations in temperatures. Syrah is a major planting in this area.

However, by the mid-2000s, Washington Syrah had begun to disappoint, with critics lamenting its tendency towards overripeness, excessive oak influence, and imbalance. The popular trend toward crafting bigger, bolder Syrahs had led some winemakers astray, relying too heavily on overly ripe fruits or very dominant oak aging criticised for masking flaws in the wine and overshadowing the grape’s true potential.

In the midst of this, Gramercy Cellars defied expectations when it began producing more well-balanced Syrah expressions, starting with its first Syrah release in 2007. This turned heads quickly and very swiftly established Gramercy as one of the region's most exciting producers.

Fresh faced founder Greg Harrington worked with the likes of Wolfgang Puck and was the youngest American Master Sommelier before venturing into making wines.

Some enthusiasts point towards Greg’s background as an elite sommelier as an explanation for his success in winemaking. Before moving to Walla Walla, Greg worked in high end restaurants, managing wine programs for renowned chefs like Emeril Lagasse and Wolfgang Puck, said to provide him a more global perspective on wines. He was also the youngest American to pass the Master Sommelier Exam at the tender age of 26, a testament to his talent in wines.

Initially, winemaking felt like an attractive retirement job in the distant future for Greg and his wife, Pam. However, a visit to Walla Walla in 2004 and the opportunity to taste some incredible wines convinced him and Pam that the future in wines lay in this burgeoning US wine region. This accelerated their plans to start a winery.

The quality of Gramercy’s Syrah may well have been influenced by Greg’s sommelier background. He strives for a harmonious balance between fruit, acidity and oak. His wines also prioritize acidity over tannins, resulting in a less aggressive and more approachable structure. The fruit is ripe but not overripe, thanks to Gramercy’s practice of picking their Syrah slightly earlier than other Washington producers. Greg also describes his winemaking approach as “minimalist winemaking”. Oak plays a supporting role rather than a dominant one, with Harrington favouring neutral barrels that have been used multiple times. This was done to allow the true character of the grapes and the unique terroir of each vineyard to express themselves without interference.

This minimalist philosophy extends to the entire winemaking process. Harrington incorporates a significant percentage of whole-cluster grapes (with stems) during fermentation, contributing acidity, tannins, and a richer mid-palate. And while Gramercy Cellars doesn't own its own vineyards, it sources grapes from some of Washington's most prestigious, including Les Collines, Pepper Bridge, Forgotten Hills, Portteus, Minnick, and Phinny Hill.

When it comes to flavour profile, Gramercy's wines are often characterised by their clarity and lusciouness, a departure from the heavier, oak-driven styles often associated with Washington. The winery’s use of neutral refill oak barrels, which have been used multiple times and no longer impart strong wood flavours, allows the natural flavours of the grapes to take centre stage, resulting in wines that are purer expressions of the fruit.

Today, Gramercy Cellars has firmly established itself as a leading force in the Washington wine scene, whilst exhibiting strong influences from both Bordeaux and the Rhône. It is a testament to what the terroir of Walla Walla could achieve.

We have with us a set of Gramercy wines. We’ll begin with the iconic Lagniappe Syrah 2018. I should add that true to Gramercy’s style, this was fermented with no destemming and matured with only just 4% new oak.

Gramercy Lagniappe Syrah 2018 – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: Heady blend of potpourri, along with generous drizzling of vanilla sauce, coupled with roses, some subtle black pepper. It’s incredibly aromatic and big on the nose, leaning towards a sweeter profile with a somewhat earthy and woody undertone.

Palate: Sweetness intensifies further, with rich notes of potpourri and roses as if it were weaved into vanilla sauce and a sort of frosting: strawberry frosting. An earthy base and fresh soil add some depth though it remains just as vibrant and vivid as initially. Some mustiness of old leather-bound books and lacquered wooden bookshelves. Remarkably rich and complex, a whole lot going on.

Finish: A gentle prickle of black pepper, intertwined with vanilla sauce, leading into a clean finish.

My Thoughts

This was incredibly powerful and well-expressed, with such evocative and vibrant flavours that carried over from the nose to the palate. There was a fantastically rich and heady aromatic woody potpourri spice, coupled with a big sweet vanilla sauce layered over.

This was an incredible expression that truly lives up to its name as Gramercy's most iconic signature wine. It punches well above its weight and delivers an experience with remarkable power and vibrancy, supported by a satisfying richness.

 

Gramercy The Third Man Grenache Syrah Mourvèdre (GSM) 2020 – Review

Tasting Note

Nose: Similarly heady and rich but much brighter and more refreshing. Opening with just a really defined floral burst of fresh lavender and homemade potpourri. Stewed red berries adding sweetness, particularly mulberries and strawberries, along with a sweet touch of oak, vanilla, and a hint of caramelised tea biscuits.

Palate: Very crisp, contrasting the richer Syrah with more elegance and bright acidity. Soft dried cranberries and dark cherries mingle with festive spices, all balanced by measured tannins and dryness.

Finish: Clean, evolving towards a gentle dryness where the tannins become more prominent. A lingering taste of red fruits remains.

My Thoughts:

First off, the nose is simply captivating. It’s even more luscious and floral than the Syrah.

That said, the palate on the other hand is on the much softer side. Much less going on here in terms of complexity and depth, though it’s still really fruity, refreshing and drinkable. A decent wine that showcases Gramercy's ability with Rhône varietals. My expectations were probably off the charts after first nosing this.

Gramercy Lower East Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: Once again, an evocative nose but now it leans more towards the savoury side. It's got this pleasant mustiness reminiscent of old books (that 'vellichor' scent!), which blends seamlessly with a moderately sweet cherry note. A distinct presence of soft tobacco, like opening a well-worn cigar box, along with hints of leather, cherry frosting, delicate roses, a touch of marzipan, and the slightest whisper of vanilla.

Palate: Medium-bodied and showcases an elegant interplay of cherries and plums, but it’s more austere than the rest we’ve seen so far. The fruit flavours are accompanied by subtle herbal notes, while firm tannins provide structure without being overpowering. There's a lingering earthiness and a suggestion of soft leather that add depth to the overall palate experience.

Finish: Relatively short, leaving a final impression of cherry pits and a subtle sherry-like dryness.

My Thoughts:

Once again, the nose is captivating as I’ve come to expect from Gramercy.

The palate is more austere (I suppose, a little aligned with Bordeaux style) but offers a compelling freshness that's not always found in this varietal. The soft tobacco notes also makes for a very, very elegant and enjoyable drinking experience, even if it might not be the most complex of this series. These softer tannins suggest it would pair very versatilely with all kinds of umami foods from grilled steak to miso-glazed salmon.

Final Thoughts

Tasting this has proven to me why Gramercy Cellars is a standout in the Washington wine scene, especially if you love its divergence from the somewhat hackneyed trend of bold, oak-laden wines that has been dominating American winemaking. The wines all exhibit a purity of fruit, restrained oak, and a clarity of expression that few others achieve.

My favourite was none other than the signature Syrah. It’s evocative and rich, with vibrant floral aromatics and a ton of complexity all really well integrated on the palate. This one is truly unforgettable and I’d even say it’s underrated globally.

A common thread in all the wines was the incredibly evocative noses—floral notes and potpourri-like fragrances that captivate the senses from the very beginning. The subtle and restrained oak influence has also been masterfully woven into each wine. It’s there, but it does not overpower. In a world of heavy-handed winemaking, Gramercy Cellars is a masterclass in restraint and balance. Impressively underrated wines. And for such a young winery, immense potential!

@CharsiuCharlie