Every Bordeaux enthusiast knows about the famed 1855 Classification of the Médoc and Graves, this is the system that made names like Lafite and Margaux legendary. Funnily enough, just a stone's throw across the Gironde river, the classification systems of the Right Bank dance to a completely different tune. In St. Émilion, estates are classified and re-classified every ten years; a unique dynamic system to reflect the ever-evolving quality of its wines. Curiously, however, estates in the neighbouring commune of Pomerol remains blissfully unclassified.

Yet, amidst this absence of formal recognition, several Pomerol châteaux have been deemed by wine lovers to be on unofficial pantheon of Pomerol's "great growths". Château Gazin has the prestige of being estimated among the great growths of Pomerol. Its vineyards quite literally share a border with the legendary Château Pétrus. Gazin's vines grow in the same blue clay soils that lend the region's wines their distinctive character.

Château Gazin is a family affair, and is today owned by the fifth generation of the Bailliencourt dit Courcols family. Their family lineage traces back to the medieval lords of northern France. But the story of Gazin's modern renaissance began in 1917, when it was acquired by Louis Soualle, the great-grandfather of the current owners.

The descendants of Louis Soualle represent the 5th generation of vineyard owners both on the paternal and maternal side.

Amongst Pomerol estates, Gazin has one of the largest vineyards - a 26 hectares that form a contiguous tapestry on Pomerol's prized upper terrace. The terroir is composed of blue and green clays rich in iron oxide, which provides the ideal cradle for growing complex Merlot grapes with black fruit jamminess, liquorice and truffles. The clay's ability to retain water also ensures a steady supply to the vines even during the hottest summers, allowing the grapes to ripen slowly and develop well-integrated and silky tannins in the distinctive style of Pomerol’s wines.

When it comes to viticulture, sustainable and environmentally friendly practices are paramount. The vineyards are 35 years old on an average, and the soils are ploughed by hand with organic fertilizers used to nourish the vines. The grapes grown are predominantly Merlot with a smattering of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc to offer depth and density to the resulting wines.

During harvest, the grapes undergo a rigorous triple sorting process, ensuring that only fruits in good condition make their way into the vats. Grapes are also sorted by varietal and by plot into different batches and separately fermented in small concrete tanks. Depending on the variety and characteristic of the wine, certain batches also undergo malolactic fermentation to reduce acidity and enhance complexity.

Finally, maturation takes place in French oak barrels, about 50% of which are new oak. The wine is periodically re-racked every 3 months on an average – a process that helps to remove sediments and create a more clarified wine.

Château Gazin's wines are often described by sommeliers as feminine and charming, due to the dominance of Merlot which lends silky tannins, ripe red fruits and lots of roundness and smoothness. The unique terroir also imparts nuanced spicy notes, silky tannins and a long, lingering finish. As Château Gazin's wine ages, it revealing layers of truffle, undergrowth, and warm leather.

The estate produces a grand vin of the same name, and also a second wine: L'Hospitalet de Gazin, which is made from the same parcels of grapes, offering a glimpse into the estate's signature style at a more accessible price point.

And it was with great anticipation that I recently had the opportunity to embark on a paired tasting the Château Gazin 2012 and L'Hospitalet de Gazin 2014 for fantastic value at Vintage & Vine wine shop in Singapore.

I should add that while the L'Hospitalet de Gazin 2014 follows the usual ratio of predominant Merlot with minor portions of Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc, the 2012 vintage of Château Gazin is interestingly a 100% Merlot wine.

Château Gazin 2012, Pomerol – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: My initial impression is one of ripeness, a profusion of jammy fruit and sweet-sour plums intertwining with the distinctive, yet subtle, muskiness reminiscent of old library books. A touch of tobacco leaf and a slightly herbal, dang gui-like note (Chinese Angelica). A touch of orange zest also brightens the ensemble. As the wine opens up, it becomes even more expressive on the fruity and minty dimensions, with also a hint of minerality.

Palate: Strikes a nice balance from the outset. It enters the palate with a burst of fresh plum sweetness, balanced by soft but firm tannins and a pleasant silky mouthfeel. It’s got a clean earthy undertone, nicely integrated with the fruitiness and a touch of semi-sweet oak bitterness that complements the red fruit notes. As it gradually unfolds, A distinct chalkiness emerges, while the tannins and acidity gradually soften, unveiling coffee-like aromas.

Finish: Clean, with a moderate tannic grip and persistent spicy notes. A faint note of dark chocolate and orange peel gradually fade with an aromatic hint of wood polish lingering in the background.

My Thoughts:

A testament to balance and seamless integration! There’s seamless integration from nose to finish. The texture is a remarkable silkiness and the flavours unfold beautifully on the palate, becoming more generous and expressive as it develops in the mouth, yet never losing the structure provided by the soft tannins.

I’d say the most impressive part of the experience is the harmony and integration between the primary notes (ripe plums, red fruits) and the subtle tertiary notes (earth and leather). While it could certainly age further, I’d say this wine is near its prime drinking window now.

Rating: 8/10

L'Hospitalet de Gazin 2014, Pomerol – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: A medley of tart red fruits – including light F&N Cherryade sweetness - mingles with an earthy undertone and a pronounced, rustic tobacco note and dried hay. Deeper aromas of thick Japanese aged soy sauce and dark chocolate emerges, intertwined with the sweetness of oak.

Palate: The wine glides smoothly across the palate, its body lighter than the grand vin, but still retaining a somewhat silky texture. An initial pop of sweet red fruit is quickly met by a more austere, slightly sharp tannic grip, accompanied by a strong liquorice and mint character. As it opens up, the wine reveals a touch more ripe red fruits.

Finish: Moderately long in the finish, gradually transitioning from fruitiness towards a sweet oakiness. Clean notes of plum skins and a gentle warmth linger on the back of the throat.

My Thoughts:

Solid stuff, indeed. Yet, this L'Hospitalet de Gazin offers a journey quite distinct from its grand vin counterpart. It's undeniably lighter-bodied, a refreshing counterpoint to the Château Gazin's density, yet it refuses to sacrifice complexity, retaining an earthy character that speaks of its Pomerol roots.

Where the Château Gazin 2012 presented a tightly woven tapestry of fruit and earth, this wine feels, perhaps, a touch more dispersed, its elements less seamlessly integrated. The tannins, while present, are softer, less demanding, allowing the bright red fruits to take a more prominent role. This shift in balance creates a wine that's inherently more approachable, an easier option for those who prefer much gentler tannins in their reds.

My Rating: 7.5/10

Final Thoughts

Tasting both wines side-by-side allows you to see a pretty insightful duality. The Château Gazin invites more contemplation and rewards patient exploration. The L'Hospitalet de Gazin, on the other hand, offers a more immediate pleasure and refreshment, its vibrant fruit and approachable tannins making it an ideal companion for a convivial gathering or as an ideal wine for hotter weather.

Both wines share a common thread: there’s a very nice earthiness that anchors the fruit and adds depth and dimension. Their tannins, while varying in intensity, are never harsh or astringent, instead lending a gentle framework that supports the wine's structure.

@CharsiuCharlie