What is the most prestigious white wine grape in the world? Many would argue something along the lines of Chardonnay, or perhaps the ever-aromatic Gewürztraminer. But the correct answer if you ask me, does not belong to France or Italy. It belongs to Germany, and it is Riesling.

The first thing one must know about Riesling is that it likes a cool climate more than anything. So if one is to pilgrimage to the beating heart of Riesling excellence, there is only one place to go—the vineyards of Scharzhofberg that are tucked in the steep hills of the Mosel Valley in Germany, home to Weingut Egon Müller (Egon Müller Winery), where the global reputation of Riesling was cultivated and exalted.

Egon Müller’s Rieslings do not pretend to be modest. They are, by a number of measures, the most expensive white wines in the world. The most exquisite vintages from the Scharzhofberger vineyard routinely fetch upwards of $13,000 per bottle, making them not just an oenophile’s dream but also an investment on par with prestigious grand cru Burgundy.

Thanks to the northerly latitude of the Mosel, Riesling wines from the region tend to be light in body, low in alcohol, and marked by searing acidity. Yet the Rieslings of Egon Müller are much richer, fuller and possess an ethereal length on the palate with a lingering finish of minerals and fruit that stretch on.

Ultimately, the greatness of Egon Müller’s wines is inseparable from the Scharzhofberg vineyard itself. This prized stretch of land was believed to have been originally planted by the Romans and was later cultivated by the St. Marien ad Martyres monastery during the Middle Ages. By the 18th century, this parcel of the Mosel Valley was under French control, and when the French Revolution came, the vineyards were seized from the clergy and sold off as national property.

It was in 1797 that Jean-Jacques Koch acquired the Scharzhofberg vineyard. His daughter would later marry Felix Müller, and together, their holdings of Riesling vineyards expanded considerably. Their second son, Egon Müller, took up the family mantle and dedicated his life to solidifying the reputation of Scharzhofberger Riesling. Since then, each generation of Egon Müller’s dynasty has carefully preserved and elevated their estate’s standing.

A key figure is Egon Müller III who took over in the 1920s and built the estate’s prestige during the post-war years. At a time when dry wines were becoming increasingly fashionable, he steadfastly maintained the production of sweet Rieslings, believing in their complexity and aging potential. Under Egon Müller III’s leadership, the estate also expanded significantly, acquiring some of the finest terroirs in the Saar region such as six acres of the Le Gallais estate in Wiltingen and the single vineyards of Kupp and Braune Kupp. It was under him that the estate first secured some record-breaking auction prices for German wines.

The Müller family enjoys a singular distinction of being the only German members of the prestigious 12-member Primum Familiae Vini (PFV) group. This exclusive club unites the leading families of each major wine-producing region, including luminaries like Vega Sicilia in Spain, Château Mouton Rothschild in Bordeaux, and Tenuta San Guido in Tuscany.

The current owner is Egon Müller IV who officially took over the reins in 1991 as the sixth generation to lead the storied estate. He manages the estate with his son, Egon V, who is still in his mid-twenties but is poised to continue the family legacy. As if there aren’t enough Egons at home or sitting within the hung portraits, even the family dog is called Egon. It is said that when someone calls out "Egon" in their household, no one bothers reacting anymore.

Egon Müller’s vineyard holdings are scattered throughout the region much like many a Burgundian producer. However, at the heart of the estate are two of the most celebrated single-vineyard sites: the legendary Scharzhofberg and Wiltinger Braune Kupp.

Among the characteristic steep slopes of the Mosel Valley, the estate owns around one-third of the renowned Scharzhofberg vineyard—a 21-acre parcel situated southeast of Wiltingen on the banks of the Saar River in the Saar Valley region of Mosel, Germany. Widely regarded as one of the finest vineyard sites in the world for Riesling, wines made from this vineyard proudly carry the Scharzhofberger name on their labels, much like bottles from prestigious grand cru sites of Burgundy – regardless of their winery names.

A defining feature of the Scharzhofberg plot is its 3 hectares of ungrafted vines that are now over 120 years old—a true rarity in European viticulture. These vines predate and survived the phylloxera epidemic that devastated most of Europe's vineyards, and their deeply rooted existence in grey slate soil contributes to the vineyard's distinctive character. This soil type, with its excellent drainage and heat-retentive properties, allows the vines to thrive even in a region with significant rainfall, while the elevated, cooler climate ensures the wines retain elegance and striking minerality.

Wiltinger Braune Kupp, another key vineyard in the Egon Müller portfolio, is situated on the bank of the Saar River within a natural bend that offers additional protection. Like Scharzhofberg, its soil is composed of slate; however, it contains a notably high percentage of iron, which contributes to the richer, more powerful profile of its Rieslings.

In addition to these flagship sites, the estate also cultivates several acres of vineyards in Le Gallais, including the Kupp single vineyard plot. The remaining vineyard holdings contribute to the production of Scharzhof Riesling—a more accessible, entry-level bottling that maintains the high standards of the estate while being more democratically priced and much more drinkable at a younger age.

All grapes are manually hand harvested, a crucial step in ensuring only the finest fruit is selected, especially for the later-harvest, botrytis-affected wines. After harvest, the fruit is pressed without any skin contact to preserve freshness and the delicate aromatics of the Riesling grape. Fermentation takes place in large, one thousand litre oak casks in cool cellars beneath the valley which minimise the influence of oak on the wine, allowing the fruit and terroir to take center stage. The wines rest in these cellars for around six months before bottling. For most of their cuvées, fermentation takes place using only indigenous yeasts.

By now, it is clear that the estate exclusively produces wines using only one grape variety, Riesling. Yet, within this single varietal focus, Egon Müller manages to release a number of different cuveés. This diversity is achieved by harvesting grapes at different times and ripeness. Egon Müller follows the German Pradikätswein system in producing its Riesling, which classification, categorises wines based on the ripeness level of the grapes at harvest – ranging from the delicate Kabinett to the lusciously sweet Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) and Eiswein.

The Prädikatswein system includes:

1. Kabinett – The lightest and most delicate style, often off-dry (Halbtrocken) but sometimes dry (Trocken).
2. Spätlese – "Late harvest" wines with richer, more concentrated flavors.
3. Auslese – Made from fully ripe, carefully selected grapes, often with botrytis influence.
4. Beerenauslese (BA) – Intensely sweet, made from botrytis-infected grapes.
5. Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) – The most concentrated and sweet style, from shriveled botrytis-affected grapes.
6. Eiswein – Made from naturally frozen grapes, vibrant with high acidity and sweetness.

The estate’s entry level (and most accessibly-priced) wine is the Scharzhof Riesling, a non-Prädikat bottling that represents the house style with fruit sourced from multiple vineyards across the region. At the pinnacle, the estate’s sweeter TBA wines command stratospheric prices at the annual Trier auction.

The dry wines are defined by their clarity, elegance and a signature minerality that reflects the unique terroir of the Mosel. Meanwhile, the sweeter wines are some of the most complex and revered in Germany, offering layers of rich flavours that evolve beautifully with age.

Egon Müller's rare Scharzhofberger Eiswein showcases impressive ageability for a white wine.

I should note that at first glance, the estate’s dedication to sweet wines may seem out of step with the global preference for dry wines. However, these wines defy conventional classifications. They are crafted for extended aging that shifts them away from simple sweetness. As they mature over the decades, they develop greater complexity, becoming drier in perception, more mineral-driven, honeyed rather than overtly sugary, and floral rather than fruity. As Egon Müller himself explains, with age, these wines transcend the traditional notions of sweet or dry; they enter a realm of their own.

It is impossible to discuss Egon Müller without addressing the elephant in the room: price. While Egon Müller Rieslings have long commanded a premium, in recent years, the prices have steadily climbed, eliciting groans from older customers who remember a time when a bottle of Scharzhofberger was considerably more accessible. Yet, for Egon Müller IV, this is not a concern. In fact, he welcomes the evolution of his customer base.

In his perspective, newer segments of customers simply replace the older ones as prices rise. Over the past few decades, the estate has watched its core clientele shift from private collectors to fine-dining restaurants, and now, back to ultra-wealthy private customers. The estate’s most coveted wines are no longer destined for Michelin-starred tables alone; they now find their way into the expansive, high-tech cellars of wealthy foreign entrepreneurs who are investing in grand personal collections.

His views on pricing is pragmatic. If they want to continue developing their wines at the highest level and maintain the estate’s focus on quality, price increases are simply a necessity. Unlike producers that can increase production to meet demand, Egon Müller operates within strict natural limitations. The Scharzhofberg vineyard is among the lowest-yielding in the world. Scaling up is not an option. The only path forward is to ensure that each bottle reflects the absolute pinnacle of what Riesling can achieve—and that comes at a cost.

Yet, while the finest expressions of Egon Müller Riesling may be reserved for those who can afford their eye-watering price tags, the estate does produce a more accessible introduction to its signature style: the Scharzhof Riesling.

For those seeking an entry point into the world of Egon Müller, the Scharzhof Riesling 2022 is the most democratic offering in the portfolio. And while it does not carry the single-vineyard designation, it remains a benchmark Mosel Riesling.

Let’s give this a taste!

Egon Müller Scharzhof Riesling 2022 – Review – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: Bright, fresh, impeccably clean. Opens with an immediate burst of juicy Saturn peaches and freshly pressed pear juice. The fruit is pure and vibrant, but there's also a distinct slate minerality that brings to mind the subtle earthiness of light Brie cheese. White florals, particularly honeysuckle, add a delicate aromatic lift, giving the nose an elegant floral quality.

Palate: Fresh and highly expressive, with an impressive precision and velvety texture that immediately stands out. It reminds me of a Junmai Daiginjo in the way it balances rich fruitiness, clarity and silky texture. Opens with the orchard fruit galore seen on the nose – a juicy white Saturn peaches, clarified apple juice and pear juice sweetness, but any excess ripeness is kept in check by a moderate citrus peel and lychee-like acidity. The prominent mineral backbone provides structure, adding a spine of tension that keeps everything taut and focused along that crushed stone minerality.

Finish: Long, carrying a mild lactic acidity, earthiness and salinity that once again brings back that light Brie cheese character. A final touch of citrus peels lingers, leaving a lasting lift of freshness and acidity.

My Thoughts:

"Redolent" is the word—this Riesling is bursting with fruit. But the mineral tension, acidity and brightness still makes it feel almost electric. Drinking this feels like you’re biting into Saturn peaches, not just in terms of sweetness but in the balance of fruit, zingy lime acidity, and intense slate-driven minerality. The length is also outstanding and really stretches on.

What makes this wine stand out is how it packs more fruit intensity than a typical German Riesling, yet still maintains a level of purity and elegance that reminds me of high-grade Junmai Daiginjo sake—it has a weightless clarity that makes it incredibly compelling.

A fantastic Riesling that punches well above its price point. It also leaves you wondering just how much further the expensive bottles from Egon Müller go – which I suppose, is exactly its job.

@CharsiuCharlie