We’re often served rosé not so much for its taste, but for its vibes – the evocation of sunny days and chic gatherings. But how did this blushing beauty become synonymous with the good life? There is a history that could be traced from the courts of Renaissance France to Miami beach-goers pouring a stylish bottle of Whispering Angel from Château d'Esclans.

Some would trace rosé's association with luxury as far back as the Renaissance period, when certain French aristocrats preferred rosé for its delicate hue and refined flavour, a stark contrast to the traditionally bold, heavy red wines. It was already seen as a symbol of refinement and luxury back then.

Rosé's image got yet another a glamorous makeover in the 1950s’ tourism boom of the French Riviera. Rising middle-class American tourists were in a celebratory mood and Côte d'Azur was the place to be with its golden beaches, sparkling yachts and beautiful people with a glass of chilled Provençal rosé in hand. The pink hued wine became inextricably linked to this lifestyle; a liquid embodiment of escape and indulgence. The luxe factor was further cemented in 1959 when Moët & Chandon, the iconic champagne house, created a Dom Pérignon Rosé Champagne as a tribute to the Shah of Iran as a celebration of 2,500 years of the Persian Empire. French rosé became a drink literally fit for royalty, for celebrations of epic proportions.

But it’s quite clear that the modern popularity of rosé owes a great deal to a "happy accident" and a stroke of marketing ingenuity by New World wine makers across the pond. In 1973 at Californian winery Sutter Home, winemaker Bob Trinchero inadvertently got a batch of red Zinfandel got stuck in fermentation – a hairy situation whereby the yeast in his wine dies before they have fully converted sugars to alcohol. Rather than pouring out the entire batch, the enterprising Trinchero decided to experiment with converting the batch into a pink-hued wine he labelled as a “White Zinfandel”.

While not the first Californian winemaker to produce a rosé-coloured wine, Trinchero was the first to aggressively market his White Zinfandel as an entirely new style of wine – pink, sweet and incredibly easy to drink. It was a far cry from the dry rosés of Europe, but it captured the hearts and palates of American consumers. This sweeter, more approachable style – distinguished from dyer European rosé as "blush" wine – introduced a whole new generation to the joys of rosé, reshaping its identity while retaining its allure. For Americans, the White Zinfandel was the gateway drug to the wonderful world of rosé.

Sutter Home saw its sales of White Zinfandel skyrocket from 25,000 cases in 1980 to over 1.5 million in 1986. So popular was it that that its sales single-handedly saved old-vine Zinfandel plantings from being ripped out and replaced with more fashionable international varieties and even encouraged new Zinfandel plantings. This trend of sweeter rosés labelled as "white" or "blanc" – think White Merlot, Cabernet Blanc – continued to dominate the American market for the rest of the 1980s’ and 90s’.

While some wine connoisseurs might turn their noses up at these sweeter American blush wines, they have an undeniable influence as a gateway for many younger Americans, easing them into the world of wine and preparing their palates for the brighter acidity of drier, crisper rosés.

Bordeaux native wine mogul, Sacha Lichine, was the man behind the revival of high-end rosé wines.

And yet it ultimately took the ambition of a French wine mogul to catapult this pink hued wine into the realm of a true icon wine that both a newcomer and serious wine drinker would appreciate.

Sacha Lichine was practically born into a pedigree of French wine. His father, Alexis Lichine, was a legendary figure in Bordeaux, a renowned author and owner of Château Prieuré-Lichine. Sacha spent his childhood immersed in wine culture, developing a particular fondness for rosé. Well into his adulthood, he he could recall spending summers in Monte Carlo as a child, joining Prince Rainier and Princess Grace Kelly on their yacht as they sipped rosé.

When Sacha came of age, instead of following the traditional path and taking over the family estate in Bordeaux, Sacha had a different vision. Raising a few eyebrows, he decided to sell Château Prieuré-Lichine to forge a path of his own in the wine industry. In 2005, he acquired the historic Château d'Esclans in Provence with the mission revitalise the estate to produce premium rosé that could match the prestige of revered reds of Bordeaux and Burgundy. Ambitious? Absolutely. Crazy? Maybe a little. But Sacha Lichine was determined to prove that rosé could be so much more than a sweet American blush wine or merely a casual summertime sip.

To achieve this, he enlisted the help of legendary winemaker Patrick Léon, formerly of the prestigious Château Mouton-Rothschild. Together, they set about transforming Château d'Esclans, implementing meticulous vineyard practices and innovative winemaking techniques to create a new standard for rosé. Léon helped to develop portfolio of four iconic cuvées of rosé wines, with distinct levels of sophistication: Whispering Angel, Rock Angel, Les Clans, and Garrus.

The high-end Garrus was touted as a game-changer when first introduced in 2006. Positioned as the world's most expensive rosé at over €110, it shattered perceptions and began to establish rosé as a serious luxury wine capable of commanding top dollar.

But Sacha’s plan wasn’t that simple. He knew that to create a truly iconic brand, he had to reach a wider audience. Thus, by playing on aspiration and exclusivity with the Garrus, Sacha cleverly positioned Whispering Angel as a premium yet attainable cuvée, a taste of the high life even if you’re unwilling to splash out on a bottle of Garrus.

Sacha Lichine wasn't afraid to roll up his sleeves and get his hands dirty. He was known for his grassroots approach to marketing, personally hitting the streets of Miami to sell Whispering Angel and tirelessly securing placements in luxury hotels and restaurants worldwide. He focused on chic, cosmopolitan destinations – Bali, the Maldives, Hong Kong – anywhere the global elite might gather for a glass of pink hued wine. He once said that the marketing is to personally shake hands and make friends. And it clearly worked. Over the past decade, Whispering Angel has seen a staggering 2,000% increase in production, becoming one of the best selling rosé wines in the world. It's the bottle you see on every influencer's Instagram feed, the go-to rosé for those in the know.

So, now that we've explored the history and the hype, let's get down to the good stuff – the actual wine! We recently had the pleasure of tasting two key wines from Château d'Esclans’ lineup: the iconic Whispering Angel and the premium Rock Angel.

The Whispering Angel is the rosé that launched a thousand Instagram posts. It's a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Rolle, Syrah and Tibouren. The grapes are sourced from a selection of vineyards across the Côtes de Provence appellation. It spends three to four months aging on the lees in a tank. This is described to be crisp, fresh, elegant, with a vibrant acidity.

The Rock Angel is the older sibling with a bit more depth and complexity. It is crafted only from estate-grown Grenache and Rolle, and spends 6 months ageing on the lees in both a tank and a barrel. We should expect a greater structure and concentration.

Whispering Angel Rosé 2023, Château d'Esclans – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: Full of summer berries. Delicate soft red apples, raspberries and redcurrants mingle with a mellow acidity, a subtle hint of citrus blossom in the background. There's a light minerality and a saline note that reminds me of the sea.

Palate: Tons of freshness and vibrancy. Opens with a lovely silky texture and a mellow flavour profile echoing the summer berries I found on the nose. It's crisp and refreshing, with a well-rounded acidity that's balanced by the oily texture. As it opens up in the glass, more and more prominent mineral notes begin to emerge.

Finish: The freshness persists into the finish, continuing that clean, dry sensation in the mouth. Lingering mineral notes and salinity with.

My Thoughts:

This is a classic Provençal rosé. It’s so playful and juicy, with a lovely silky texture, a delightful balance of fruit, wonderful acidity and evocative minerality that really do remind me of the ocean. Not incredibly complex, but it’s easy to see why this is so versatile and popular.

Rock Angel Rosé 2022, Château d'Esclans – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: There are familiar echoes of Whispering Angel, but this takes the fruity intensity up a notch. Those soft apples are still present, but they're joined by a more vibrant chorus of red berries; raspberries, redcurrants, juicy strawberries, ripe cherries and then some more zesty sweetness of a clementine. Weaving through it all is a pronounced a stony, mineral undercurrent that speaks of the estate’s Provençal soil.

Palate: It’s electric with freshness! First sip brings a surprising wave of mintiness and complimentary acidity. The texture seems a little more viscous and mouth-coating than the Whispering Angel. Fruit flavours are beautifully layered, also with white peaches and strawberries taking centre stage, accented by refined white floral sweetness. A lively acidity keeps the fruit sweetness in perfect balance.

Finish: So bright and lively! It’s got this bone dryness that is almost spicy with a strong lemon zestiness that leaves a tingling sensation on the tongue.

My Thoughts:

This is much of the same format as the Whispering Angel but with a much more intense and well-defined picture of the various elements of fruit, minerality and dryness. Now it’s bone dry, which I find incredibly refreshing, and the complexity of flavours is remarkable. The influence from added oak ageing was quite subtle though it seems to add a noticeable fruit richness and a slightly more creamy texture to elevate the wine. Compared to Whispering Angel, Rock Angel definitely shows a more mature character. It's significantly bolder, more assertive, with a captivating interplay of acidity and spice.

That being said, even as I acknowledge that the Rock Angel has a certain gravitas that makes it perfect for those who prefer a drier, more complex rosé, both wines are undeniably enjoyable – those who prefer something a little more approachable should still enjoy the Whispering Angel.

@CharsiuCharlie