I have a wealthy uncle, a man whose idea of a casual Tuesday night tipple might be a glass of Château Lafite. But his actions once stumped me. He was returning to Malaysia after a business trip, and while he could have easily stocked his wine fridge with any number of prestigious Bordeaux First Growths, he instead gleefully flaunted his heavy carry-on luggage: six identical bottles of good old Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc that he claimed was on a massive discount at less than $20 a bottle. This wasn't some rare vintage or limited edition; this was the readily available, perfectly affordable Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc. It struck me as odd.

Cloudy Bay occupies an interesting space in the wine world. It is part of the LVMH luxury empire and rubs shoulders with the likes of Château d'Yquem and Cheval Blanc, but Cloudy Bay's history is relatively modern. Unlike most of its stablemates that are steeped in centuries of tradition, Cloudy Bay had only been founded in 1985.

So why would a man who could afford to bathe in Pétrus go to such extents procure a white wine so unpretentious? How did a winery founded in the relatively unknown Marlborough region of New Zealand ascend to such cult status, capturing the hearts of both casual drinkers and serious wine lovers like my uncle? To truly understand its rise, we need to go back to the beginning, to the vision of its founder, David Hohnen.

David Hohnen (left) and winemaker Kevin Judd, tasting Cloudy Bay's wines back in the 1980s'.

David Hohnen was already a respected figure in the Australian wine scene thanks to his success with Cape Mentelle, a pioneering Margaret River winery he co-founded in the late 1960s. Hohnen wasn't content with conquering just one corner of the wine world; he saw the potential for New Zealand to become a major player on the international stage, and he believed Marlborough held the key.

The early 1980s were a very different time for Marlborough and New Zealand wine, which were still unknown in the wine world. However, a chance tasting of a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc led Hohnen to declared it as "the most amazing smelling wine he had ever smelled." He had been making Sauvignon Blanc in Western Australia for many years but could never achieve the same fruitiness. Hohnen felt he was on to something special in Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs.

In 1985, Hohnen launched Cloudy Bay, initially borrowing grapes and working with local growers as he established his own vineyards. Hohnen didn't initially focus on the domestic New Zealand market. Instead, he targeted Australia and the UK, recognising that these markets were more receptive to New World wines and were eager for something new and exciting.

But what was it about Marlborough’s terroir that so captivated Hohnen? It seemed an unlikely paradise for grape growing back then. Strong winds buffeted the vineyards, the soils were low in fertility, and winemaking infrastructure in Marlborough was non-existent. Yet, these apparent disadvantages turned out to be blessings in disguise. As modern winemakers would discover, the low fertility, free-draining soils forced the vines to struggle, resulting in lower yields but more concentrated flavours. The surrounding mountains sheltered the valley from excessive rainfall, while the proximity to the ocean moderated temperatures, allowing for slow and even ripening. Furthermore, Marlborough's high levels of ultraviolet radiation, a result of its location in the Southern Hemisphere and the relatively thin ozone layer, contributed to the development of intense herbaceous and tropical fruit flavours in the Sauvignon Blanc grapes. These elements combined to create the signature Cloudy Bay style: ripe, aromatic fruit balanced by a vibrant, zesty acidity.

At a time when New World wines were just beginning to challenge the dominance of their Old World counterparts. Cloudy Bay’s lack of historical baggage, it’s distinctive character and clever marketing, has allowed the winery to carve its own unique path to success. The Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc is a wine that practically leaps out of the glass with zesty energy and refreshing acidity. The packaging is a green bottle with understated grey label featuring a minimalist design of mountain ridges, inspired by Hohnen’s view from a plane when he flew over the region. This stylish packaging and taste profile marketed the wine itself. It embodied the New Zealand's "clean and green" image when, and seemed to capture the essence of New Zealand's pristine landscapes.

The success of Cloudy Bay wasn't just a win for Hohnen; it was a catalyst for the entire Marlborough region. Just like the classic Chablis of Burgundy. Cloudy Bay was able to fashion itself an icon, with Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc quickly becoming one of the most popular white wine styles worldwide. It inspired a generation of winemakers to tap into the unique terroir of Marlborough. Despite its iconic status, Cloudy Bay continues to be priced remarkably accessibly to most consumers thanks to its high grape yields. With consistent climate, careful vineyard management and no need for expensive oak ageing, Cloudy Bay could produce relatively large volumes of high-quality wine without the costs associated with more traditional, labour-intensive methods. It offers a premium wine without the hefty price tag.

Of course, we can't forget the influence of prominent wine critics who heaped praise on Cloudy Bay and declared that New Zealand produced the world’s best Sauvignon Blanc, and that Cloudy Bay was the very best of New Zealand. Cloudy Bay became a category-defining force that elevated New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc to global prominence.

Its flagship Sauvignon Blanc is fermented primarily in stainless steel tanks, with just 4% or less fermented in old French oak barriques and large format oak vats. This helps to preserve its fresh, vibrant fruit characteristics. Beyond that, Cloudy Bay produces a well regarded Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, both varieties well-suited to Marlborough's cool climate conditions. However, the wine that most piqued my curiosity was the Cloudy Bay 'Te Koko' Sauvignon Blanc. This unique expression of Sauvignon Blanc offers an interesting contrast to the classic vibrant fruity Cloudy Bay style, as it is aged in oak barrels and fermented with wild yeast.

Let’s give this one a taste!

Cloudy Bay Te Koko Sauvignon Blanc 2015 – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: A burst of ripe orchard fruits – juicy pear and white peaches with the tropical sweetness of passion fruit. There's a hint of subtle herbaceous notes, reminiscent of freshly cut grass balancing out the fruit-forward aromas. Very concentrated and inviting with a beautiful liveliness and purity, but stops short of being overwhelming in its acidity.

Palate: A lovely weight and oily texture that coats the palate with a sense of richness. Continued flavours of ripe orchard fruits now joined by a touch of pink guava and a more pronounced passion fruit character. These tropical notes are balanced by a savoury complexity – a hint of toasted bread and a subtle yeastiness that brings to mind a fine Chardonnay. Underlying these richer elements is a distinctly bright minerality of Kumamoto oysters. The wine retains its acidic backbone as a counterpoint, providing structure without overwhelming the palate with dryness.

Finish: Persistent and layered. A subtle citrus zest lingers, alongside the more prominent minerality. Delicate notes of vanilla and spice emerge now, a very subtle evidence of the oak ageing.

My Thoughts:

This is really elegant expression of Sauvignon Blanc that showcases both complexity and restraint. It's certainly not your typical Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc; the Te Koko has a much greater depth of fruit, a more rounded character, but it also has a complexity that unfolds gradually in the glass and require a bit more patience. It’s not “in your face” so to speak.

The oak influence is masterfully integrated, tempering the acidity and contributing to the wine's overall elegance without interfering with the fruits. An exceptional Sauvignon Blanc that did not waste a second of its 9 years of bottle aging to give us fantastic complexity and balance. Absolutely drink this now.

Score: 95/100

@CharsiuCharlie