Despite being known as some of the most sought-after wines in the world, Burgundy (or Bourgogne as it appears on French wine labels) is a region that can be as frustrating as it is fascinating for a new drinker. It’s a patchwork of tiny vineyards, where the character of a wine can change dramatically with just a few metres’ difference in the location of the vines. Understanding Burgundy, then, can feel like trying to solve a particularly complex jigsaw puzzle. And when you behold the portfolio of a major négociant-producer like Maison Albert Bichot, things become even more intricate as you contend with a list of over 150 different wines from various villages and sub-regions.

To truly appreciate a bottle from this Maison, we begin with its brief history of its official founding in 1831, though the Bichot family’s roots in Bourgogne stretch back much further to 1350. Like many of the great négociant houses such as Louis Jadot, Bouchard Père & Fils, and Joseph Drouhin, Albert Bichot began as a wine trader, sourcing and selling wines from across the region. Unlike Bordeaux vineyards which are typically much larger Châteaux-style estates, Burgundy is characterised by numerous small vineyard parcels owned by multiple growers. And because many small Burgundian growers lack the resource to bottle and market their wines independently, négociants in Burgundy played a special role purchasing grapes or even bulk wine from these small producers, blending them, and selling them under their own labels.

The path to acclaim had its challenges. In the latter part of the 20th century, Albert Bichot found itself somewhat in the shadow of other prominent names. This period saw a surge in interest in smaller, Domaine-bottled wines, and the larger négociants were sometimes perceived as less focused on quality. Recognising the need to adapt, the company underwent a significant shift in strategy in the 1990s. Instead of simply buying and selling wines, they focused on taking control of quality, from grape to bottle. This involved gradually acquiring more vineyards, investing in modern winemaking facilities, and (crucially) vinifying all their wines in-house, a move that allowed for greater control over style and consistency.

While Maison Albert Bichot may have started as a négociant, it has also established itself as something of a Domaine producer in its own right – with about one-fifth of Albert Bichot's wines are produced from grapes grown in their own estate vineyards. All of the wines - whether or not from sourced grapes - are also vinified in one of the 6 estates owned by the Maison.

This ability to reinvent its operations and revitalise its quality helped the Maison remain relevant in the 21^st century. In 2004, Albert Bichot was validated as Winemaker of the Year by the InternationalWineChallenge, before continuing to scoop up similar accolades along the years. This has also allowed the Maison to remain one of the rare few Burgundian houses still in the hands of its founding family. Today, it is led by the sixth generation owner Albéric Bichot.

The Maison owns 107 hectares of vines spread across 6 estates or “Domaines” from a diverse range of sub-regions:

1. Domaine Long-Depaquit (Chablis): The largest of Albert Bichot’s estates is located in the northernmost reaches of Burgundy, and produces a range of elegant, mineral-driven Chardonnay wines from Grand Cru, Premier Cru, and Village appellations.
2. Domaine du Clos Frantin (Nuits-Saint-Georges): Certified organic, the domaine specialises in powerful and structured Pinot Noir from the Côte de Nuits sub-region, including Grand Cru, Premier Cru, and Village wines.
3. Château Gris (Nuits-Saint-Georges): Also certified organic, Château Gris focuses on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Premier Cru and Village appellations, grown on picturesque terraced vineyards.
4. Domaine du Pavillon (Pommard and Meursault): Enclosed within historic walls, this organically certified domaine from crafts both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from some of the Côte de Beaune sub-region’s most prestigious appellations, including Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards.
5. Domaine Adélie (Mercurey): Situated in the Côte Chalonnaise sub-region, Domaine Adélie offers a range of both red and white wines from Premier Cru and Village appellations.
6. Domaine de Rochegrés (Moulin-à-Vent): Just slightly beyond the southern boundary of the Mâconnais area is Moulin-à-Vent – though technically of the Beaujolais sub-region – this domaine specialises in the fleshy, floral-scented red wines.

Managing such a diverse portfolio of vineyards presents quite a challenge. So rather than employing a single winemaker, Albert Bichot takes a decentralised approach. Each domaine has its own dedicated vineyard and winemaking team, allowing for an intimate understanding of the specific terroir and grape characteristics. It allows each domaine to express its individuality, resulting in a diverse range of wines that showcase the nuances of Burgundy’s various terroirs.

While celebrating regional variation, Maison Albert Bichot also seeks to maintain a consistent philosophy across its domaines, guided by head winemaker Alain Serveau. This philosophy emphasises faithful representation of terroir, clean, pure and bright fruit profiles, wines with elegance and finesse, precision and balance and with great aging potential.

Under Alain Serveau, Maison Albert Bichot moved towards a minimal intervention philosophy, with a focus on sustainable and organic practices. The overarching goal is to create wines that are true expressions of their terroir, capturing the essence of each vineyard and village. In the winery, this translates to traditional vinification methods in open wooden fermentation vats, whole cluster fermentations where stems are included to contribute greater tannic structure and aromatic complexity and gentle handling from vat to barrel to bottle by moving the wine by gravity and not by pumping, to reducing the risk of oxidation.

But any winemaker will tell you that you can't make good wine from bad grapes. The philosophy of minimal intervention begins in the vineyard where yields are kept deliberately low, typically around 35 hl/ha, to create more concentrated fruit and complex flavours. Organic practices are prioritised (as you’d notice, four of the six domaines now fully certified), only organic fertilisers being used – a little compost every five or six years – and herbicides are strictly forbidden. Weed control is managed through a labour-intensive schedule of manual ploughing.

This leads us to the selection we’ll be reviewing today: three white and three red wines from Albert Bichot that showcase a diverse range of villages across Burgundy.

Pro-tip for those new to the region – larger producer such as Albert Bichot tend to have very similar looking parallel wines of the same regions – such as “Albert Bichot Chablis” and “Albert Bichot Chablis – Domaine Long-Depaquit”. Wines without the “Domaine” indication are from fruit sourced throughout the stated region, while wines with the “Domaine” indication are from the specific estate owned by the producer – in this example “Domaine Long-Depaquit”.

So let's see how these wines measure up!

Maison Albert Bichot Chablis Organic 2023 (Village Appellation) – Review

100% Chardonnay

We begin our exploration in Burgundy’s northernmost outpost, Chablis, with Albert Bichot’s entry-level Chablis Organic 2023. The grapes for this particular bottling are sourced from various sites throughout the appellation, offering a snapshot of the region’s signature style. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel vats before aging on the lees in stainless steel vats for 10 to 11 months.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Opens with crystalline fruit, very pure and bright. I get notes of yuzu and white currants, with an undercurrent of saline minerality tinged with subtle savoury notes, almost like a hint of ham.

Palate: A lovely, oily texture. The fruit is delicate, leaning towards lemon and green apple, but it doesn't dominate. The minerality really takes centre stage, and there's a distinct saline note that distinctively reminds me of fresh oysters.

Finish: Long and dry, with a lingering minerality along with a lasting sweetness of what I can only describe as barley wine.

My Thoughts:

This is a very balanced Chablis, neither overly austere nor overly fruity. It's crisp and refreshing, with the prominent minerality that I expect from a good Chablis. A classic example of an entry-level Chablis with good complexity, depth and minerality typical of the region's Kimmeridgian soil.

Maison Albert Bichot Pouilly-Fuissé 2020 (Village Appellation) – Review

100% Chardonnay

Now, we journey south to the warmer climes of the Mâconnais, where the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation resides. Unlike Chablis’ austere minerality, Pouilly-Fuissé is said to exhibit a richer, more fruit-forward character. This appellation, encompasses villages of Fuissé, Solutré, Pouilly, Vergisson, and Chaintré, and is characterized by sloping vineyards, some quite steep, which results in varying sun exposures, a longer harvest period and a broader spectrum of flavours due to grapes ripening at different rates. Fermentation and aging on the lees takes place in a combination of 70% stainless steel and 30% oak aging.

Let's see what it reveals.

Tasting Notes

Nose: The nose is immediately more mellow than the Chablis, with a pronounced floral character. Ripe peach and nectarine aromas dominate, and there's a touch of sweetness in the background. The minerality is present but more subtle compared to the Chablis.

Palate: Surprisingly light and crisp on the palate with a refreshing acidity. Fleshy Saturn peaches prominent throughout, but there's a growing complexity, with a hint of vanilla sweetness, a light coppery twang and some toasted grain notes.

Finish: Long, with the peach notes lingering alongside the toasted grain character. It’s really fruit driven but not exactly sweet if you know what I mean.

My Thoughts:

This Pouilly-Fuissé offers a satisfying contrast to the Chablis. It’s very cool to see how a shift southward and a slightly warmer climate can dramatically alter the character of a Chardonnay. It's discernibly richer and fruitier, with those evocative peach notes taking centre stage. While more complex and expressive than the Chablis, it still retains a lovely freshness and crispness without any heaviness or cloying sweetnesss. An impressive balance of fruit and freshness being a hallmark of well-made Pouilly-Fuissé.

Maison Albert Bichot Meursault 2022 (Village Appellation) – Review

100% Chardonnay

We now arrive at the heart of the Côte de Beaune in the village of Meursault. Considered by many to be the capital of Burgundy's great white wines, Meursault is celebrated for its unique terroir, where variations in soil type, depth, and slope contribute to a fascinating diversity of expressions with some showing rich fruits and others showing varying degrees of minerality.

This wine is sourced from across the village. Grapes are gently pressed before fermentation and aging on the lees in 20-30% new oak barrels as is common practice in Meursault.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Notably, even more savoury than the previous wines, with aromas of orchard fruits like pear and apple alongside a hint of strawberry. There's a distinct bready note, reminiscent of freshly baked bread, and a touch of aged honey and passion fruit adding complexity.

Palate: Full-bodied as expected, with a velvety texture that coats the mouth. It strikes a lovely balance between freshness and richness, with a buttery quality alongside notes of hazelnut and almond. The fruit gradually emerges with notes of ripe white peach and yellow apple.

Finish: Relatively short, with quickly fading fruitiness and lingering breadiness.

My Thoughts:

This Meursault offers a wonderfully complex nose and a wonderfully rich texture on the palate. I only wished that the same complexity is expressed on the palate. Perhaps with further aging, the nuttiness will become more prominent. Fruit notes could be a little bit more expressive too. I'd be curious to revisit this bottle in a few years to see how it evolves.

Maison Albert Bichot Gevrey-Chambertin 2022 (Village Appellation) – Review

100% Pinot Noir

And now, we turn our attention to the reds, beginning with the Gevrey-Chambertin from the Côte de Nuits sub-region, where its powerful and structured Pinot Noirs reign supreme. Gevrey-Chambertin, in particular, has a reputation for producing wines that are full and firm, with a so-called “masculine” concentration and structure thanks to the region’s combination of marl, scree, and clay soils.

The Albert Bichot Gevrey-Chambertin undergoes fermentation and maceration in wooden vats for 18 to 21 days before oak aging in 25 to 25% new barrels for 14 to 16 months.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Immediately expressive, with vibrant ripe red fruit aromas– strawberry and plum, with a touch of tartness adding lift. A subtle floral sweetness, reminiscent of fresh lavender and rose petals, and a hint of toasted vanilla from the oak aging.

Palate: Medium-bodied, with a lively acidity and well-structured tannins. The initial impression is quite tart and dry, but it quickly softens to reveal rich red fruit flavours – strawberry, red currant, and raspberry – all framed by those smooth, velvety tannins.

Finish: Moderately long, with the tart fruit character lingering. It dries out towards the end, with a subtle animalistic muskiness and a hint of earthiness emerging.

My Thoughts:

This Gevrey-Chambertin offers an enticing nose and a complex palate, with a lovely balance of fruit, acidity, and tannins. The rather tart fruit character adds a lot of liveliness while the smooth tannins makes it very approachable on the whole, even in its youth. The hints of musk and earth on the finish also add good complexity.

Given that Gevrey-Chambertin has an aging potential of 5 to 7 years, this 2022 vintage is still quite young. I suspect it will continue to benefit from further development over the next few years, with the fruit becoming more expressive as acidity falls and the tertiary notes gain complexity. I'd recommend revisiting this bottle in 2 or 3 years to fully appreciate its potential.

Maison Albert Bichot Pommard Monopole Clos des Ursulines 2019 (Village Appellation) – Review

Domaine du Pavillon, 100% Pinot Noir

Next up we have a "Monopole" wine which essentially signifies that the producer owns the entire vineyard, giving them complete control over viticulture and winemaking. This particular wine hails from Domaine du Pavillon, crafted exclusively from fruit grown in the Clos des Ursulines, a walled vineyard in the heart of Pommard with vines averaging 35-40 years old. Interestingly, the Clos des Ursulines, with its calcareous clay soil and white marls, is said to produce wines with an elegance that belies the typical "masculine" character often associated with Pommard.

Fermentation and maceration happens in wooden vats for 3 to 4 weeks before aging in oak barrels with 20 to 30% new barrels for 14 to 16 months.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Complex and layered, with a captivating blend of dark floral notes and deep fruit aromas. There's a core of bright red fruit – cherry and fig – but it's interwoven with more rustic notes of undergrowth, dried hay, and earthy spices. I even get a hint of stir-fried bell pepper, adding a slightly vegetal and savoury dimension. With time in the glass, delicate floral notes emerge – violet, rose, and general potpourri notes. It’s an incredibly evocative aromatic profile.

Palate: Full-bodied (for a pinot noir) and round, with a wonderfully thick texture. It's powerful and well-structured, with a core of precise red fruit flavours – ripe strawberry and red cherry – complemented by a subtle minerality. There's a lovely dryness of raspberries on the back.

Finish: Long and dry, with a slight chalky texture that lingers on the palate.

My Thoughts:

What a revelation! This offers a captivating complexity and a generous but impeccably balanced flavour profile that culminates in an elegant finish. Very demure, very mindful, very harmonious. Of the wines tasted so far, this is my personal favourite. It has clearly benefited from some bottle age since its 2019 vintage, making it a fantastic bottle of wine to enjoy right now.

Maison Albert Bichot Morey-Saint-Denis 2017 (Village Appellation) – Review

100% Pinot Noir

Finally, we arrive at the Morey-Saint-Denis which is situated between Gevrey-Chambertin and Chambolle-Musigny in the Côte de Nuits sub-region. Like its neighbours, the appellation focuses almost exclusively on red Pinot Noir wines, and it's known for a certain elegance and perfume. This wine has a similar vinification and aging regime to the earlier.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Rich and riveting; a medley of red and black fruits – raspberry and blackcurrant being most prominent – complemented by earthy notes of tobacco and smoke, with a hint of charred oak adding complexity. A subtle floral touch, reminiscent of roses and lavender, adding a touch of elegance.

Palate: Medium-bodied, with a generous core of red fruit flavours. It's slightly tart, with a firm structure provided by well-integrated tannins. The fruit is supported by a distinct minerality that emerges on the mid-palate.

Finish: Long and dry, with a lingering note of barley wine and a persistent dryness.

My Thoughts: 

This Morey-Saint-Denis presents a rather compelling combination of richness and elegance as well. It does not have the same power as the Clos des Ursulines, but it does offer a captivating complexity that begins on the nose and a satisfyingly structured palate. The fruit could perhaps be a touch more expressive, but the overall structure and concentration is commendable. Of the non-domaine red wines tasted, this is my favourite.

@CharsiuCharlie