Let's be honest – who browsing the wine aisle wouldn’t be intrigued by a wine called "The Chocolate Block"? The name evokes curiosity and perhaps even a touch of skepticism. But this South African cult classic has proven, over the past two decades, there’s more to this wine than just a clever label. For over a decade, this has been one of South Africa’s most iconic premium red blends and is many a wine lover's introduction to the world of South African wines.

The Chocolate Block is produced by Boekenhoutskloof Winery (pronounced Book-en-hawt-kloof) and nestled in the scenic wine capital of South Africa - Franschhoek Valley (meaning "French Corner" in Dutch). Interestingly, Franschhoek's winemaking heritage dates back to the late 1600s when French Protestants, fleeing religious persecution under King Louis XIV, sought refuge in a whole other continent. These same people brought with them their wine culture and helped to transform Franschhoek into a South African winemaking epicentre.

The Boekenhoutskloof Winery (Source: Tina Gellie)

Boekenhoutskloof itself was established in 1776, but it wasn't until a restoration in 1993 and the acquisitions of vineyards around South Africa by visionary winemaker Marc Kent and his partners, that the estate truly began to shine. Their mission? To create wines that authentically express the unique terroir of South Africa, and in particular the Swartland region.

The Swartland (Source: Conde Nast Traveller)

The Swartland is a rugged landscape that was once better known for wheat fields than vineyards. The name "Swartland" itself means "black land," a reference to the dark, fertile soils that turn almost obsidian after the winter rains. The region boasts a Mediterranean climate, with warm, dry summers and cool, wet winters, making it an ideal place for Rhône varietals such as Syrah grapes – think peppery spice, smoky notes, and rich dark fruit flavours that contrast with the more restrained profiles of Bordeaux wines.

And unlike wine regions that are well-irrigated, vineyards in Swartland tend to embrace a dry-farmed approach. Vines fend for themselves with only natural rainfall, stressing the vines, forcing them to dig deep for water, resulting in smaller berries packed with concentrated flavour and higher phenolic content. And it's not just Syrah that thrives here; the region's unique terroir also nurtures a diverse range of other Rhône varieties like Grenache and Viognier.

Boekenhoutskloof thus drew inspiration from a Rhône-centric approach to winemaking. One of the most famous wines of northern Rhône, the Côte-Rôtie, is a Syrah-focused blend which French winemakers often blend a small percentage of Viognier (a white grape) to add floral aromas, enhance fruitiness, and lift the overall bouquet. Back in 2002, Marc Kent was experimenting with a new blend which combined Syrah for spice and aroma, Grenache for freshness and acidity, Cabernet Sauvignon for tannins and structure, Cinsault for fruitiness and a touch of Viognier – a nod to the Côte-Rôtie. However, Marc’s wine was missing a name. After a conversation with an Australian wine merchant friend, Tony Allen, the name “The Chocolate Block” was suggested. This was a playful reference to the potential chocolate notes that can develop in well-aged Grenache. It was also a moniker that Marc felt perfectly captured the wine's dark, brooding character and its unexpected touch of sweetness.

Marc Kent when he first started his winery. 

This wine became more popular than Marc’s wildest dreams. Perhaps it was a combination of the catchy name, the wine’s quality and simply good timing. Released in the early 2000s, before the era of flashy wine marketing, The Chocolate Block resonated with consumers seeking a taste of something new without seeming overly aggressively marketed. It quickly gained a devoted following, becoming a benchmark for premium South African blends.

At least 20 vintages of The Chocolate Block have been released till date. I got my chance to have a taste of the 2022 vintage of The Chocolate Block at a warehouse tasting organised by wine importer Angra Wine .

The Chocolate Block, Boekenhoutskloof Winery, 2022 – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: Actually reminiscent of dark chocolate, with tons of richness, sweetness and a subtle spice. It’s got this unusually sweet oakiness that evokes the scent of a warm chocolate lava cake and dark cherries. A hint of dark roses lingers add a lightly perfumed touch.

Palate: Bold and medium-bodied, this wine coats the tongue with firm yet polished tannins. Sweet dark fruits take centre stage, particularly dark cherries and dried cranberries, complemented by a pronounced oakiness akin to dark chocolate shavings and hazelnut. There’s a subtle liquorice note alongside the spice of some coriander seeds. It's undeniably sweet, but not overwhelmingly so, thanks to the balancing influence of the heavy oak.

Finish: Sweetness subsides into a clean finish with light tobacco notes lingering on the tongue.

My Thoughts:

Surprisingly, this wine really does evoke the spirit of chocolate, even though it doesn't directly taste like it. It’s bold, it’s decadent with a lasting impression and drinking it does feel like you’re indulging in a rich, dark treat. While The Chocolate Block isn’t Boekenhoutskloof's most expensive cuvée, it's clear to me why this wine has become a cult classic – I've never encountered another that comes this close to capturing the essence of chocolate.

It's one of those rich, bold and decadent wines that I’d at least have a bottle in my cellar. Now, if only I have some quality dark chocolates to pair this stuff with…

@CharsiuCharlie