The Brunello (or as Italian vintners call it, Brunello di Montalcino ) is Italy’s most prestigious and sought after traditional wine styles of the Tuscan region, with a lineage stretching back to the early 14th century. It’s celebrated for its bold, complex flavours and aromas, with a vibrant acidity that contributes to its remarkable balance and exceptional aging potential. It’s made only with Sangiovese grape, a varietal known for its thick skins that imbue the wine with that deep alluring colour and concentrated tannins.

Production of Brunello di Montalcino is governed by stringent regulations, mandating a minimum aging period of 5 years before release. Because lower vineyard yields is presumed to result in higher-quality wines, the Italian government has also imposed strict yield limits per hectare of vineyard, ensuring that wineries only use their better quality grapes to craft this wine.

Mastrojanni (pronounced mahs-troi-ah-nee) stands as one of the most respected producers of Brunello. Its journey began in 1975 when a wealthy lawyer, Gabriele Mastrojanni, acquired the San Pio and Loreto estates in Montalcino. At the time, this parcel of land was considered unsuitable for viticulture, consisting primarily of steep slopes populated by Holm oaks, gorse, and broom – a haven for wildlife and hunters rather than a fertile ground for vineyards. Few other vineyards existed in the vicinity, and no one really expected much of this terrain. Yet, Gabriele ambition was to produce one of Italy's finest Brunello wines, and he set about planting Sangiovese, the grape variety that appeared to flourish in this seemingly inhospitable environment.

Respected winemaker Andrea Machetti and Illy Group's president Riccardo Illy.

While the Mastrojanni family did its part, the estate owes much of its prestige to the skilled oenologists and winemakers who joined in the 1990s – Andrea Machetti and Maurizio Castelli. The duo embarked on a tireless quest to elevate Mastrojanni through a meticulous overhaul of the production processes while applying a "non-interventionist" winemaking approach which sought to allow the wines to evolve naturally, guided by their intrinsic character. In an interview, they likened themselves to doctors safeguarding the well-being of their patients, meticulously monitoring every stage of production from harvest to cellaring, ensuring that the wines were shielded from any potential harm that might compromise their quality.

The estate was later sold in 2008 to Machetti’s longtime friend and multimillionaire Francesco Illy, the proprietor of the renowned illy coffee brand. However, the seasoned team led by Machetti and Castelli remained at the helm of production.

The Montalcino region where Mastrojanni hails from boasts a classic Mediterranean climate characterised by hot, dry summers and mild, wet winters, and strong winds from the sea. This creates a stark diurnal temperature variation that causes the fruit to develop a vibrant acidity while the grape skins thicken and develop anthocyanins, resveratrol, and tannins – compounds that provide boldness, structure and natural antioxidants to allow the wine to age gracefully.

The specific terroir of the Mastrojanni vineyards is also beneficial in a counterintuitive way. The soil is low in fertility, which in turn forces the vines to grow deeper roots to delve further into the earth in pursuit of water and essential nutrients. This struggle for sustenance results in lower yielding vines but grapes with higher concentration of flavour and complexity, while expressing the terroir of the soil which is composed of clay, sandstone, and lime-based pebbles.

Winemaking at Mastrojanni religiously follows a process developed by Machetti and Castelli. It begins with the rigorous selection of grapes. The harvest commences with the early picking of the most mature grapes, aimed at securing a wine with a vibrant acidic backbone that will later be blended with the wine from the final harvest. This technique is known by Italian vintners as "vendemmia verde," or green harvest. The estate also employs a meticulous double-sorting process, whereby each grape is individually inspected by a team of skilled hands on two sorting tables. This painstaking approach ensures that only the healthiest and most perfectly ripe Sangiovese grapes find their way into the fermentation tanks, while any fruit exhibiting the slightest imperfection is discarded.

Next up is the use of large concrete fermentation tanks that were specially built by Machetti. These vessels, favoured for their thermal inertia and ability to maintain a stable, cool temperature, allow for a prolonged and gentle fermentation process that maximises flavour and tannin extraction from the grape skins. The porous concrete tanks also facilitate micro-oxygenation, a process that subtly introduces oxygen into the wine during fermentation, helping to soften tannins and integrate flavours.

Following fermentation, the Brunello di Montalcino is aged for 36 months in Allier oak barrels, renowned for their fine grain and ability to impart delicate nuances of spice and vanilla to the wine. The result is a Brunello wine that is both powerful and elegant, with a structure that promises years of evolution in the bottle. In addition to their Brunello, Mastrojanni produces Rosso di Montalcino, a younger and more approachable red wine also made from Sangiovese. This is often seen as a more accessible introduction to the Mastrojanni style.

But for this review, we find ourselves at wine importer Angra Wine’s warehouse where we got a chance to taste the best stuff – two Mastrojanni Brunellos from 2018 and 2021.

Mastrojanni Brunello di Montalcino 2021 – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: Incredibly rich and aromatic. Powdery tannins mingle with some indistinct red fruits, creating this delicate dance on the nose, with just a whisper of earthiness and slight sweet oak notes grounding the experience.

Palate: Bold and fruity. Opens with a rush of warm spices and a firm tannic structure. The acidity is a touch more pronounced than my usual preference, though it is moderated by the muted red fruit sweetness and firm tannins.

Finish: Lingers for a bit, leaving a subtle warmth from baking spices and a hint of pepper. Concludes with some faint leatheriness and tobacco.

My Thoughts:

This is a bold Brunello with undeniable character. The structure is very solid, thanks to the strong tannic backbone, though I wouldn't mind a bit less sharpness to the tannins. I think a few more years in the cellar will undoubtedly allow it to reach its full potential. As it stands, it's a robust and captivating wine, a perfect match for hard cheeses that will coax out those hidden berry notes.

Mastrojanni Brunello di Montalcino 2018 – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: Super captivating! It’s full of depth with bucolic tertiary notes that seem to take me to the Tuscan countryside. Plums and strawberry jam intertwine with the rustic scent of dried hay and tobacco while a gentle touch of cassia bark adds a subtle spice. On the back of it, some earthy truffle and mushroom notes along with an aromatic oakiness.

Palate: Great balance of boldness and elegance. Spices and a medley of both red and dark fruits dance together, fruitiness coming out in much higher definition than in the younger 2021 vintage. The tannins, though providing a firm structure, are remarkably well-integrated and gentle, still allowing much of the fruitiness to shine through. As the tannins gradually fade, they transform into a gentle, powdery sensation, adding a unique texture to it.

Finish: Lingering spices, a subtle sweet minerality and a warming touch of pepper and aromatic spices. The tannic grip slowly fades away, leaving this fine, powdery texture that reminds me of fine cinnamon powder.

My Thoughts:

This is a wonderfully complex and captivating wine with tons of tertiary notes and is by far my favourite of the two. While the 2021 vintage paired beautifully with cheese to enhance its fruitiness, the 2018 has got this immersive depth of flavour that I prefer to savour on its own.

Both wines are a testament to the quality of wines from Montalcino and Mastrojanni estate, though I think patience really pays off in a very well-aged Mastrojanni.

@CharsiuCharlie