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DuRhum Rum Reviews

A Foursquare 2006 Vertical: Velier Foursquare 2006; Velier Foursquare Triptych; Foursquare Criterion ECS Mark V; Transcontinental Rum Line (TCRL) Barbados FS 2006; Excellence Rhum Foursquare MBFS Millesime 2006

 

A little Barbadian stroll today, between continental and tropical climate, between fog and crushing heat with for sure a little souvenir of your holidays. We take out the crystal ball and the tarot deck with rums from Foursquare, and more particularly rums from 2006. And as cherry on the cake the Triptruc came out very recently (in which there is also… 2006).

Note that for the two Velier releases (as for the rest), it becomes almost impossible to taste before buying, and worse, you must not (anymore) waste a second and buy as soon as possible…and when it is possible. Enough to prolong the opening of the said pins by many buyers who will see it more as an opportunity to invest a few euros rather than taste a spirit. Already sold out before arriving on the shelves? Not quite judging by the madness (and the flop) that affected the Foursquare 2006: supposedly out of stock in a few hours/days (a break cleverly and crudely orchestrated by smart guys), it quickly found itself on auction sites with already a nice added value, to return to normal a few months later, at its original sale price… The amateur is wronged, the system is taking on water and the thirst for discovery is quenched. But she comes back, but until when?

 

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Transcontinental Barbados Foursquare / 57°

Vintage 2006, bottled in 2016 by LMDW for its Transcontinental rum range. As the label tells us, the rum spent 69% of its time aging in Europe.


Old gold amber color, oily and nonchalant dress for this Transcontinental.
On the nose, the rum is dry, finely woody and vanilla; the alcohol is quite present at the beginning of the tasting and will need time to fade. Spices, ginger and some more incisive and spicy cousins ​​arrive. The alcohol seems to block a lot of things, letting only a dry and vanilla woodiness, spices and captivating notes and the freshness of citrus zest (lemon) show through. With more rest we finally find some fruits including green banana and apple, chocolate, but always with this alcohol which remains quite present.

On the palate, the attack is warm, lively and honeyed. The nose was starting to cause a certain boredom that the mouth erases from the first drops. It is even resinous, still woody and spicy, heady, liquorice (anise) and warm as desired; A characterful rum where alcohol dominates once again, on a background of tannins and bitterness (herbs), but a rum that is also fresh and invigorating as it permeates the palate. The exoticism is much less present than usual (but still helps the mouth). And for good reason, it is rather the barrel (and the alcohol) that causes here. The finish is long and still as imposing, spicy and tannic, dry (alcohol), before noticing a little exoticism before the release.

A characterful Foursquare that lets the degree speak; we are already at 57° but it seems much more important, less well balanced than the average, with a predominance of heady, spicy (chili) and woody notes. Note: 81

 

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Foursquare MBFS Vintage 2006-2017 / 62.8°

The same as above but a bit older, and also stronger, and this time offered by the online sales site Excellence Rhum (from whom we often steal photos of bottles via Google images :p).

The color is still a light amber, very refined and bright, and more oily than the rum above.
On the nose, the profile is much less aggressive than the TCR, less alcoholic too and more gourmet! The vanilla goes well with dried fruits of all kinds (blond raisin, banana, coconut, citrus) which give off a nice perfume; everything works in balance, neither too woody nor too spicy, with just the right amount of fruit and freshness. A simple but effective rum with well-integrated alcohol.

On the palate, the attack is resinous, super smooth and concentrated on a citrus/sauceful fruit mix of the sun (apricot, orange) that quickly becomes captivating: the peppery spices press on the pleasure slider, and the sweet acidity of the citrus fruits makes you salivate and heightens the senses. Chocolate and coconut break the fire in a resolutely gourmet and powerful, heady mouth, and the citrus fruits refresh your mouth in an unparalleled generosity. The finish is long, dry and powerful (alcohol) and finely woody/vanilla, before seeing our faithful apricot return; the alcohol heats a bit too much and it's a shame because if there wasn't so much of it it would probably be sublime, but it's quite recurrent at Foursquare.

This is a rum that offers a very beautiful 360° journey, with a resinous and explosive mouth, perhaps a bit too much on the alcohol but well executed from start to finish. And at the same time so different from other vintages, such as for example the 98 (Compagnie Des Indes at 60°) which has a much more toasted profile (toasted coconut galore), as if this 2006 offered a lighter version of Foursquare (with more alcohol and dry notes). Score: 84

 

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Foursquare 2006 Velier / 62°

A rum distilled in 2006 and aged for 10 long years (7 years in old bourbon barrels , 3 years in Cognac barrels) in the climate of Barbados. A Single Blended rum as we like them, from a new partnership between Richard Seale of Foursquare and Luca Gargano of Velier.

Deep amber color tending towards bronze and a very sparkling and oily dress, with xxl legs.
Past the first notes of acetone that fade more or less quickly and an alcohol always present, the nose turns out to be concentrated and resolutely gourmand. But not the vulgar or industrial gluttony, the classier one that does not overdo it and which above all has the good idea of ​​not disgusting and inviting contemplation. The kind of pastry to eat with a spoon and to which time succeeds greatly, and better, which will reward you for your patience: grilled coconut, raisins, melted and caramelized wood, fresh mint with a bag of grilled spices which give the essential hold to any good thing in the mouth. The 62 ° nevertheless remain quite present and seem to block the nose here and there.

This rum is fine and elegant, and the aging in Cognac barrels is surely not for nothing. A rum with toasted, empyreumatic notes, balanced and charming, on which one would stay for a long time.

In the mouth, it is once again very rich and thick, to stick a little everywhere for a very pleasant sensation. Thank you the natural degree, thank you the tropical aging, and once again irrefutable proof of the difference and the impact of tropical aging compared to continental (we will come back to it via an article). A textbook case but a bit too alcoholic for me. We find the roasted notes always delivered in just the right dose, the grilled coconut, black liquorice, grilled and melted spices, and a monstrously pleasant and gourmet (and iodized) presence; a candy for the mind, elegant and fine. The finish is long like the tail of a smart bison in the middle of August, spicy chocolate, liquorice.

A very rich and smooth rum, and yet another proof of the interest of tropical aging. The alcohol is nevertheless a little too present for the experience to be perfect. For those whose purses are sore from lady speculation, the 2004 remains a safe purchase. Note: 86

 

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Foursquare Triptych / 56°

Following the success of Fourquare 2006, Foursquare Triptych is the second expression developed by the two famous rum specialists Richard Seal and Luca Gargano. This blend of three vintages distilled in 2004, 2005 and 2006 has aged in three different types of casks including Bourbon, Madeira and new American oak.

The color is deep amber, old gold copper and very bright. A greasy disc on the surface comforts the eye and the tears that come off it are of a beautiful thickness.
On the nose, the rum first delivers a certain astringency (spiciness on the nose), dry notes of copper, acetone and dried fruits (raisins and figs), stone fruits (plum), almost vinous. The woodiness is relatively fresh (pencil sharpness, like the Enmore light version), aniseed and finely vanilla. More serious than usual, less gourmand too, we move away from the usual classicism of Foursqaure rums, as if the aromas were covered with a layer of varnish, the nut replacing the coconut (present and always grilled but more timid), the exoticism fading in favor of a more mineral touch (earth, iodine) and reminiscences of our orchards (plum, cherry) and local wines. The Madeira cask imbues its presence and drives the nose, and it's very seductive in the end.

On the palate, the attack is resinous and very rich, harmoniously (and warmly) mixing liquorice, warm spices (gray pepper) and iodized notes; it goes crescendo and increases in power, but a controlled power, with once again a rough and raspy impression (Madeira cask), empyreumatic notes, toasted oak, fruits (orange, apricot, coconut, pineapple) and spices. The rum goes so far as to seize your entire mouth, delivering notes of liquorice here, toasted coconut there and further pepper and candied ginger. The finish is rather long, dry and warm, on a background of toasted oak, spices and apricot tart.

A nose much less Coco than a Foursquare 2006, more serious and complex, more balanced also with less alcohol in the mouth, but also less sickening in the long run, and made very seductive by a classy vinous aura. If you like Foursquare and the finishes that bring this side quite marked by Madeira, this rum is probably made for you. Note: 87.5

 

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Foursquare Criterion / 56°

Ok, we're moving away from the principle of tasting the 2006 vintage, but we're staying in the Madeira cask... This is a 10-year-old rum, a new blend of pot still and column that first aged 3 years in Bourbon casks before spending another 7 years in Madeira casks. It will be bottled at 56% and will be limited to 2000 bottles for Europe (+ 2000 others reserved for the United States in 75cl).

An old coppery gold, the Criterion's dress is brilliant and oily as desired.
On the nose, after a light solvent, we find our faithful grilled coconut that arrives quickly, a true Foursquare trademark. We find the framework of the house, and we are clearly more on a 2004 Foursquare than 2006. It is rich and complex, coppery, resolutely fruity and classy: on the grape, which accommodates very well the coconut and exoticism, on a background of oak impregnated with vinous notes and grilled spices (cinnamon, 4 spices). The Madeira cask clearly brings depth, structure to the whole, and would even make its little brother from 2004 seem more childish than it is. It serves the buttery side of the nose very well (soft caramel), and the result is ultra pleasant, serious and gourmet.

The attack is soft and warm, and quickly becomes oily, almost resinous even. On the zest and a salty/acid side that makes you salivate; the grape is there of course, as is the oak, grilled and spicy (fried?), the caramel and the cinnamon (clove, nutmeg). The grape is black, tending towards red fruit, accompanied by banana and chocolate. The finish is long and empyreumatic, faithful to the tasting and tasty from start to finish, dry and liquorice.

More gourmand than the Triptych, more toasted and as if more smoky/black, but surely easier too, even if less 'cerebral'... The bottle is not dressed in black so it may be less appealing, whereas it should be just as much, or even more so (especially given the price difference). Rating: 86

 

To help you (and me) find your way around, regarding the notes:

90 and + : exceptional and unique rum, it is the best of the best
between 85 and 89 : highly recommended rum, with that little something that makes the difference
between 80 and 84 : recommendable rum
75-79 POINTS : above average
70-74 POINTS : in the low average
less than 70 : not very good

 

Review courtesy of DuRhum.com.

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