Behind the Mauritian brand New Grove that we saw arrive a few years ago in the world of rum, there is a giant of the sugar industry, and more broadly a war machine: New Grove is in fact the brand of the Grays distillery which belongs to the Terra group, pioneer of the distillation industry on the island of Mauritius. Grays Limited has only been offering rum since 2005, its activity being essentially focused on the production of sugar cane alcohol: a neutral alcohol intended for the food and pharmaceutical industries and which is also used to produce KGB vodka. Grays is also at the origin of the Lazy Dodo brand, a rum-based drink supposed to meet this mass demand for sweetened and sugary rums and which is fatally different from the New Grove brand and the rest of the island's production (apart from the Emperor 'rum' ).

(photo by Gaëtan Dumoulin from an article published on the Référence Rhum website, some of whose data feeds into this article).

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New Grove | historic side

New Grove is the rum brand of the Grays distillery located in Mauritius, produced since 2005. The family history dates back to 1838, the year in which the Harel brothers decided to found a company to develop the production of cane sugar in the north of Mauritius. Almost a century later, in 1932, they bought the OK and Co Ltd distillery which they renamed Grays Distilling.

Despite the very recent production of rum, its historical background allows it to enjoy the image - in fact - of the oldest distillery on the island. The story that interests us more particularly here (which relates to rum and its production) begins from 2005, which will not prevent New Grove from releasing a few years later a "  solera  " rum which displays on its carafe an aging of 25 years ( 'aged 25 years' , blend of 8 to 25 years and therefore probably at least one rum from...1990), as well as a first old rum vintage 2004.

Grays Distillery | Production Side

Grays can count on an estate of 16,000 hectares of sugar cane to extract its own molasses which will be filtered and then fermented for 32 hours for a wine with an alcohol content of 8.5% to 9% alc/vol. The distillery has a single distillation column (composed of 20 exhaustion trays and 15 rectification trays) which will be used until 2013 for the production of both neutral alcohol (cane alcohol) and rum. From this date, Grays will install a new column which they will couple to the first (connected to the new one thanks to valves and a piping process visible here with  some trays ), from which the distillate will come out at 94%.

For its aging, Grays uses a wide range of barrels with capacities ranging from 30 to 400 liters (30, 170, 225, 275, 300, 350 and 400 liters), half of which are new.

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New Grove Oak Aged Rum / 40°

An amber rum aged in oak barrels which, according to its official communication, is "made from a family recipe that is around 200 years old" ; Remember that the Grays distillery has only been producing rum since 2005 and neutral alcohol for these famous 200 years, so be careful of marketing abuse.

Fairly light amber color with golden highlights and slobbery legs.
On the nose, the first sensation is quite woody and dry, on fruits with caramelized blond grapes, dried banana and a rather imposing smell of guava that gradually takes over all the space: grapefruit too, for an increasingly exotic profile. A little cinnamon, ginger, vanilla and caramel contribute to a warm and gourmet atmosphere, all seduction, almost carnal.

On the palate, the attack is very soft, both fresh and fruity with always this grape and the exotic fruits mentioned above (banana, guava) warmly spiced (ginger, clove). The palate becomes spicier on a gray pepper, and the finish is moderately long; first on liquorice, warm with a touch of freshness, it ends by revealing once again an assumed and proud exoticism.

An amber rum that works, easy and rather effective, which is much better than some sauce rums that we see arriving from Mauritius and which have no soul (except perhaps that of a diabetic). Rating: 79

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New Grove 5 years / 40°

Produced from a double maturation in French oak barrels from Limousin and Port, this traditional rum (molasses) is aged for 5 years.

The color of this 5 year old is old gold amber, quite fatty overall.
On the nose, the rum is dry and initially delivers a lot of very mature white flesh fruits (apple, pear), quince, mixed with candied citrus fruits; this gives a distinctive smell mixing orchard fruits and exoticism with a braised woodiness, and something metallic, as if oxidized. The rest brings roasted notes (chocolate), caramel, vanilla and the port side brings a heavy and gourmet note but which contrasts even more with a nose that seems unstable.

The palate is warm and oily, on all these notes and still without much balance, with in addition small tangy red fruits accompanied by peppery notes and a smoky woodiness. The rum shows power for 40° but without knowing where to go, with a mixture of sweet, acidic and smoky notes that do not work together. The finish is very dry, between tannins and grilled spices, on the alcohol.

Is it the double maturation and the Porto effect, in any case we do not really know where this rum wants to go, with sensations that do not seem very homogeneous overall. Note: 72

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New Grove 8 years / 40°

Aged in Limousin oak barrels for 8 years.

Coppery amber color, oily and bright.
On the nose, we have a much more mature and complex rum than the 5 year old, more calm too. Notes of citrus and largely ripened exotic fruits (mango, apricot and peach skin) blend harmoniously with a fairly fine and classy woodiness (smoky); the exoticism takes a little more space, opulent and acrid, and the oak becomes powdery, the rum becomes heady. Lemon and peach seem to play the stars with once again an atypical nose, but which works well.

On the palate, the attack is soft and slightly oily, very peachy (and papaya), making you wonder if this taste is really natural; very surprising, like chemical and quite dry, on a very exotic candy attack, then spicy (nutmeg, gray pepper) and woody, tangy (citrus, orange, lemon), caramelized and vanilla. It crescendoes, until an average finish, quite dry on nutmeg and oak, tannic.

Much better than the 5 year old, more complex and still with this woody/acidic/fruity triptych which works much better here, but we would like more degree, concentration so that it explodes in the mouth. Much better than its little brother . Note: 81

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New Grove 2004 / 49.9°

The first vintage released from the Grays distillery (which has been producing rum, let's remember, since 2005. Understand who can). The bottle tells us about the barrel reference, the type of wood used (Limousin oak), the bottle number, but nothing about the date or even the year of bottling. Too bad because the information seems rather essential.

Coppery color tending towards orange bronze, the legs are greedy for a rum that appears oily (bubbles, disc).
On the nose, it is very exotic, first in a Harlequin candy style with juicy apricot, yellow peach and citrus fruits (tangerine, orange and lemon), baking spices (cinnamon, ginger). A fresh and humid woodiness appears on the nose in a complex and rather rich ensemble, opulent and pungent with a pronounced acidity that comes from a very ripe exoticism close to rotting, especially lemon. With rest, we find morello cherry, small acidic red fruits for a rum with a sour and sweet nose (caramelized).

A rum that will probably not please everyone on the nose but which remains very interesting because distinct, and which will seduce with time. Rest brings it a lot of assurance with more caramelized and roasted notes (tobacco, caramel).

On the palate, the attack is oily and concentrated: it is made on a mixture of very classy woody notes and sweet acidity with once again citrus fruits and yellow-fleshed fruits (apricot, peach, guava) which play a beautiful role and blend harmoniously with the precious woodiness. The degree brings a beautiful power and presence, the spices are also very present but always in good osmosis: clove, cinnamon, nutmeg. A full mouth that gives the impression of biting into juicy and perfectly ripe fruits (sweet but good sugar). The finish is long and just as seductive, fleshy and carnal: peach, apricot and mango on the very end, pepper and nutmeg, with empyreumatic notes. Very beautiful persistence on the fruits of the sun, with a mango that seems to want to come out, drier.

A very nice vintage rum, a rum that you chew, crunch and appreciate from start to finish, in a refreshing richness. The same with more maturity should be exquisite, but here we are well beyond the classic range (amber, 5 and 8 years) with a first very good rum that stands out from the crowd. Note: 84

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New Grove 2005 / 54.9°

From cask #80 and with an alcohol content of 54.9°, this rum selected by The Nectar was apparently bottled in 2014. There are apparently several different bottlings of this vintage, including at least a second ordered by a luxury hotel chain and bottled in 2014 and therefore aged 9 years (in cognac casks and 3 months in Moscatel casks).

Very bright copper color, reassuring and classy, ​​the legs are semi-thick and full of charm.
On the nose, we have less exoticism than the 2004 and more acridity, concentration and maturity. More spices too, for a rum that is drier in appearance, and richer and more concentrated, less focused on the delicacy of apricot, peach or citrus fruits. It is more sober, black and certainly less expressive of the youth of the fruit, its exuberance, and more closed but with class and seriousness. The additional degree imposes itself and we already expect a concentrated and even rough mouth. We feel a woodiness mixed with citrus notes giving a slightly humid side to the oak, sour, with more roasted notes that end up arriving (coffee, tobacco) and which magnifies the whole. More serious than its little brother, a cerebral rum.

On the palate, the attack is oily and very concentrated, with a sour woodiness, citrus fruits (zest), licorice and imposing and warm roasted notes that cling to the palate. It is powerful, spicy, but with enough mature and sweet fruits to remain very pleasant and above all balanced. The finish is very long, dry spicy and sweet (citrus) and even fresh (zest). We ask for more very quickly, it is rather a good sign. Powerful.

A different rum, more cerebral and all in power and maturity, but without forgetting a good balance and enough complexity to not get bored. Perhaps an alcohol a little too present on this vintage (very citrus and raspy/rough). Note: 86

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New Grove 2007 LMDW / 60°

A rum distilled in 2007 and bottled at its natural strength for LMDW at 400 bottles. Single Cask #42.

The dress of this 2007 is old gold, very oily, and the tears that form on the outline seem to fall one by one in a perpetual ballet. imposing.
On the nose, we find this mature and opulent exoticism with our faithful citrus fruits, but also apricot and mango, papaya, always at the end of its life with a tangy, acrid and mature presence, but sweet enough to go down wonderfully well; delicately caramelized and vanilla. The nose is very rich and the 60° pass without a hitch, even if the high degree holds back quite a bit, only letting escape a few notes of smoke (blond tobacco) and vanilla, cinnamon. It is classy, ​​fine and very restrained (mainly because of the alcohol) but it also promises an explosive mouth… The rest will open the nose on an exacerbated exoticism for our greatest pleasure. A very rich and controlled nose.

On the palate, the attack is powerful; satiny and very present, it explodes in the mouth, sticking each aroma to the palate. With at the top, juicy exotic fruits, peach and apricot, a very gourmet and impregnating sweet and tangy salvo, contained wood and sharp spices and liquorice. Everything develops harmoniously and intensely in the mouth and with a certain pleasure, despite a rather present alcohol. The finish is long and continues on the sweetness of exotic fruits and vanilla, to finish on warm and controlled tannins.

A dash of water will bring out the smoky woody side that will first take the place of the exoticism on the nose, before it comes back at a gallop, playing a constant hide-and-seek. On the palate, the rum is still very pleasant, even more gourmand and always on the exotic fruit. It suits it a lot in any case, and that's always a good sign.

60° certainly, but what a presence! The rum is powerful, the nose and the attack are exquisite, stripping; perhaps a more explosive finish is missing, and even then. Note: 87

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New Grove Royal Blend / 45.6°°

Made from a blend of three New Grove vintages (2005, 2006, 2007) aged in French oak barrels and then refined in acacia, chestnut and port barrels. This blend also contains - by a miracle of time once again - a 1969 New Grove (sic).

Bronze color, oily, many legs of beautiful dimensions.
On the nose, it is sweet and fruity, rather on a gourmand and very soft profile, like velvety and overdone. We expect concentration, richness like on the New Grove vintages (and we are entitled to hope for it) and we come across a very basic rum, where indeed we feel that the goal is to flatter the audience, with the incidence of the Port barrel which is very very present with this syrupy/sweet/gourmet side, almost sticky; this tends to show all that it can break on a blend: the spontaneity, the concentration, the singularity of the base rum and its organoleptic characteristics. It is fruity (on the candied, over-vitaminized apricot), vanilla, caramelized, it is very round and honeyed (honey and wax) with warm and easy spices (cinnamon, ginger) and so far from what I like about New Grove that the disappointment is imminent (and immense). So yes it is sweet, surely pleasant, but without personality.

The palate is slightly oily, sweet, tangy, woody and we find a little more personality (and even concentration), but it is not really very balanced. We find mature exotic fruits (mango, pineapple), citrus fruits that bring presence (sweet acidity), honey and this round/gourmet side that encompasses the aromas in a not very pleasant viscosity (but easy) that dries the mouth. The finish is average, even a little drier, with beyond the previous aromas of tobacco and spices (cinnamon). A rum that seems sweet, with a broken finish.

meh meh meh, there were surely better things to do (and select) to celebrate an anniversary, but fortunately there were other bottlings much better made and unique, not to say authentic and with a strong identity. Too simple and easy, it seems that the personality of New Grove is completely drowned in the mass and the refinements. Prefer a 2004 or even better a 2005, you will not regret it at least. Note: 75

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New Grove Solera 25 / 40°

"Developed from an old family recipe, this rum has aged for at least 25 years" or even "blend of spirits aged between 8 and 25 years" . The communication does not seem to be up to scratch for this vintage "limited" to 2000 bottles ( "only" ). Of course, it is impossible for the Grays distillery and the New Grove brand to have produced rums that are 25 years old since the distillery has only been producing rum since 2005 (according to its history anyway). This is the secret of the ultimate marketing term that is the "  solera  ": making a rum appear older than it is. The carafe still displays "aged 25 years". But where it comes from, that is another story that unfortunately the distillery does not wish to share.

In any case, without much surprise, rum contains sugar: displayed at 40°, it was measured at 36.74 or almost 13 g/L.

The color is a deep amber tending towards mahogany, fat with XXL legs that do not take their time to fall (25 years old, really?), stuck to the glass.
On the nose, it is gourmand and sweet, on a liquorice tobacco to which we would have mixed molasses, a little leather, and a lot of caramel… In this dark and gloomy side (because sweet), we recognize some fruits (our famous citrus fruits, thanks to the sour side that we can only just imagine) but it is not obvious since they are a "little" denatured by an excessive sweetness, making the nose very indifferent, but also very impersonal and without real complexity. Vanilla? A nose that is more like liqueur than rum. We can't see much and it does not bode well for the mouth.

In the mouth, it is fat and honeyed and the sweetening is unmistakable (no less than an El Dorado 25 ); on a sweet liquorice (closer to the roll of zan by the way), it spreads on the palate, with leather, spices but always sweet and therefore soulless despite spices that seek to express themselves, to extricate themselves; the more the rum remains in the mouth, the more it develops a certain thickness, to become sickening. Can you imagine the finish, broken by what you imagine, dry and sweet, molasses and leather?

A waste, perhaps to try to please as many people as possible, but a waste nonetheless. When you start by tasting the vintages and you get to this, you really wonder what can go through the minds of the distilleries. We cannot hide the disappointment of seeing Grays fall into this fool's game of offering a tinkered rum that is neither harmless nor does it participate in healthy competition between producers and colleagues. Note: 69 (because they must have had a minimum of pleasure in embarking on such an adventure).

It is very surprising but always interesting (and also a little disconcerting) to see the qualitative gap that can exist between a simple amber rum, the first old rums and vintages from the same producer, and the so-called 'super premium' rum (Solera 25) supposed to show the quintessence of a house. A huge snub, where we go from delight to disenchantment, and where we go from singular and distinctive rums to a rum drowned in a saccharine malaise, without soul or character.

In the end, one wonders if a distillery can really be satisfied - and concentrate - on making a good rum while seeking to develop (and share) an identity of its own, and which reflects its distillate? instead of heavily wanting to copy all its brands which are moving further away from rum every day to offer ersatz liqueurs. It's enough to lose hope... and it clearly goes against the idea of ​​making a supposedly authentic and "quality" product, because deep down if a product is good it will sell, and New Grove knows how to make good rum.

To help you (and me) find your way around, regarding the notes:

90 and + : exceptional and unique rum, it is the best of the best
between 85 and 89 : highly recommended rum, with that little something that makes the difference
between 80 and 84 : recommendable rum
75-79 POINTS : above average
70-74 POINTS : in the low average
less than 70 : not very good

Review courtesy of DuRhum.com.

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