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DuRhum Rum Reviews

Taste Testing Rhum Rhum Liberation 2012 (45%) vs. Liberation Integrale 2012 (59.8%)

 

 

The new Liberation has finally arrived! To summarize our business: it all started in 2004 when Luca Gargano and Gianni Capovilla decided to produce a unique agricultural rum in Marie-Galante: a very long fermentation of pure sugar cane juice (without adding water) followed by a discontinuous distillation in a bain-marie and in small copper stills. This was followed by the release of Liberation 2010 (which refers to the date of release of the rum, understand the year it was bottled), and this year of the 2012 vintage. Taking advantage of the rainy weather, I couldn't help but give in to temptation and give you my impressions... thanks to Luca Gargano and Velier for sending me a bottle before this new bottling went on sale.

 

Price : €74 for 700ml at 45° (same degree as the Liberation 2010), and new: there is now also a full-proof version at 59.8°, in more limited quantities.

Age : this is the same rum as for Liberation 2010 but this time aged 5 years, so still aged in barrels that have contained great French white wines (sauternes: Chateau d'Yquem, Domaine Leflaive). The rum was "liberated" from the barrels in 2012, hence its name.

So here we have the long-awaited sequel to the 2010 Liberation which was 2.5 years old… long-awaited since we have the chance, the unique opportunity to be able to follow the evolution of this rum over the years. Let us salute the idea and the opportunity of such an adventure! I wanted to start here quite logically by tasting the 45° version (differentiated by a blue label while the full version has an orange label).


The color of this opus is still  mahogany with beautiful orange highlights, but slightly lighter than the Liberation 2010 ; The white wine barrels used for aging play a primordial role here. Beyond this small detail the viscosity is identical, except perhaps the legs which - always thick - seem to fall even more slowly towards the bottom.

The nose is soft, very fruity and gourmand (round). Where the nose of the 2010 was quite heavy and thick (on soft caramel, gingerbread), here the veil has dissipated revealing more delicate and fine notes of flowers, citrus fruits and exotic fruits full of sun, but also woody, as if the rum had completely opened up . Vine peach, orange and fresh almond invite themselves in concert with sugar cane. The intensity and complexity have nothing to do with the Liberation 2010, everything has developed and the finesse of this nose shows once again all that time can bring to a rum! We can imagine all the osmosis, the alchemy that operates in the barrel, between the different elements, and which gives THIS result. And let's not forget that all this magic also takes place in the climate of Marie-Galante, hot and humid, in short in an environment even more conducive to dreams and the good development of a rum.

The structure of the rum is taking shape a little more, the spices are starting to take up more space, and the woodiness, sometimes in the form of oak, sometimes in the form of liquorice stick, shows us the combined effect of time and the barrel, the effect of the rum on the wood, all melted and deliciously mixed with the fruits. All in delicacy and with a very light kick (mentholated freshness) this nose could not be more harmonious.

On the palate, the attack is soft, still in a creamy register but less than the Liberation 2010. Here we are more on the warmth of the spices and this woodiness just emerging which marks the entry in the mouth, before finding the fruits, and always this marmalade. A more expressive mouth but never overflowing where everything is very well mastered. We note compared to the Liberation 2010 the appearance of this woodiness which gives body to the rum.

The finish is long and warming, and leaves a lot of room for wood and spices, with a hint of freshness brought by a certain salinity (acidity?) that settles over time . Where the Liberation 2010 was more fruity and floral, here we have more character and more hold; it is the logical evolution so no big surprise, except that of coming across a very good rum and the oh so interesting one of being able to follow its evolution.

In our interview Luca Gargano said that the ideal age for a rum is 6 years, here we have a perfect example. The Liberation 2010 was like a bud on an already solid branch… the Liberation 2012 saw the blossoming of a magnificent flower, seductive to those who are willing to linger there. A successful bet for a more than conclusive result… and even bluffing. Enough to wonder if there will one day be an even more evolved Liberation (and therefore older), like a fruit that would replace this ephemeral but already troubling flower, a new setting for an even more brilliant jewel. The rest is in the expert hands of Luca Gargano and Gianni Capovilla, but one thing is now certain: this 2012 supplants its younger brother, and by far. Score: 88

 

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EDIT: I tried the full version

 

 

Heightened sensations for an extraordinary sensory experience…

If a more concentrated version doesn't scare you (and believe me it shouldn't) then go for it with your eyes closed! This rum literally coats your interior and delivers its aromas right into your chest, but in a way that is always very elegant.

An exceptional aromatic concentration, the fruitiness is intense and the woodiness and liquorice explode in the mouth to finish you off with a long and extremely tasty finish, OUTSTANDING, certainly one of the best rums tasted.

Pure sugar cane juice + long fermentation + double distillation + aging in noble barrels + the Gargano/Capovilla team = THE perfect blend and perhaps even the rum of the year. Great Art… Rating: 92

 

To help you (and me) find your way around, regarding the notes:

90 and + : exceptional and unique rum, it is the best of the best
between 85 and 89 : highly recommended rum, with that little something that makes the difference
between 80 and 84 : recommendable rum
75-79 POINTS : above average
70-74 POINTS : in the low average
less than 70 : not very good

 

Review courtesy of DuRhum.com.

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