I am not a big fan of finishes in general and especially in what can be done in rum, where all too often we either have the choice between ultra-sweet molasses rums with a sickening finish, or we find agricultural rums which, in addition to losing their primary characteristic, are all too often over-flavored, clearly bringing out the finish to the detriment of the rum. JM has also done quite well at this level (as have some "world finishes" from HSE), almost making us forget their usually so good agricultural rum.
It seems that the finish is still popular, or at least that's what producers would have us believe, who are doubling down on their ingenuity (or stupidity, depending on your point of view) by releasing finishes everywhere, on amber rums and even on whites now... We were joking about it here a few months ago, and it's been done since then; Admit that it makes you wonder, but nothing really seems to stop the money machine, not even (and especially not) common sense. And since consumers seem fascinated, they would be very stupid to stop.
A finish is not a flavoring
The eternal question of the legality of the process still arises, which all too often in rum is similar to flavoring (at this level, we can only advise you to go and look at Cédric Brément's arranged products, there you really know what you are buying). Thus, behind the notion of 'finish', we hide a voluntary flavoring by leaving in the barrels (when it is not injected by pressure into the staves themselves = seasoning) a few dozen liters of sherry, cognac, whisky or other wines and spirits, in order to mark the rum for a quick (and rather effective) result. And let's remember that flavoring is illegal (unless it is clearly stipulated of course), but it seems that some have a very personal definition of the term "finish".
And while in the world of Whisky the finish brings a slight grammage of sugar per liter (even after ten years of aging and in very sweet ex-barrels), in the world of rum we cap at 4, 5 or even 10 times more... magical? tragic especially... But don't let that stop you from enjoying your finishes, there's something for everyone in the end. Let's just remember that finish should not translate to 'finishing' your rums with Whisky or whatever else, but more simply using empty barrels to age your rum inside to best get a balance between the two worlds. A finish is clearly not a flavoring or an excuse for sweetening rums.
Don't hesitate to ask yourself the question when you taste a rum that seems too marked, it could well be that there is a bit of magic behind it. While waiting for the first laboratory tests to arrive one day that will clearly show the fraud, we can already imagine the excuses that many will use that day...
And to avoid leaving a bad impression and since some finishes are still very well done, here is a 14-year-old Savanna Intense (=molasses rum) refined in a sherry cask. A rum that is 46°, which was measured at 46° (and therefore without sweetening). Let us point out in passing that Savanna used its oldest rum for this refinement, a considerable risk; in any case a bet that we imagine is much riskier than making a finish on a white or an amber, you will agree.
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Savanna Intense 14 years Xeres / 46°
A vintage Single Cask rum (2000) put in a Cognac cask on 17/11/2000 and selected in January 2015 (refined in a Sherry cask). The rum tested here comes from cask #983 and bottle 767/967. Like the rest of Savanna's single casks, bottled in 50cl.
The dress is mahogany tending towards a reddened and luminous bronze. We hardly dare to speak to you of the tears, replaced here by sabers.
The nose is black as ebony, reminiscent of the melted rubber of very old Demarara rum bottlings: with hyper-roasted, black and ultra-melted notes, with a molasses pulling on mineral notes of tar/bitumen still warming, harmoniously mixed with a very present balsamic side, candied fruit (jammed) then coffee, very tight. A nose of old rum lost and abandoned in thousand-year-old barrels, but without too much tannic or bitter charge. We never get bored with this nose and there is something for everyone (for all desires), with very beautiful notes sometimes sweet and fruity (red fruits) that caress your senses, sometimes dark and stormy, between black liquorice and walnut wine. The finish is of course beyond doubt, with an impression of a successful marriage, a united union where so many rums marry in white and barely hold hands.
All this gives it a very concentrated syrup aspect despite the 46 'small' degrees and draws more and more on a sweet wine (nuts) with rest. It remains very pleasant from start to finish, sweet and on the toasted nut and hazelnut.
On the palate, it is more oily than fatty and it catches you from the first moments: aromas of melted and sweet fruits mixed with liquorice, wood and burnt plastic grab your palate; the exoticism arrives in force, mature and tangy (guava, ultra-ripe papaya) and the rum goes crescendo making you salivate strongly, always in a loaded and black atmosphere of coffee. We find nuts (wine) with this tannicity which marks the palate and makes it rough. Very pleasant, the rum even becomes smooth in an atypical but pleasant profile marked by Sherry and tangy exotic fruits. As on the nose, we have a nice duo of very black (licorice, tire) and fruity notes for a melted and balanced result! For 46° it is a great success, and imagining this same rum with a few more degrees is dizzying.
The finish is long and warm, with aromas of toasted wood with a slight bitterness, and always a hint of acidity (exotic fruits sweating on a hot afternoon). A marked finish that gives this rum the appearance of old woody Demerara under a Caroni base, Reunion style and with roundness. The mixture of mature exotic fruits (papaya, guava) and the darkness of the sherry cask works rather well for an atypical rum with a strong, chocolatey character.
Very original, and certainly a rum to discover, to appropriate and to eat with chocolate (guaranteed success). It's simple, we have the impression of having an osmosis and that's all we should expect from a finish: this impression that the rum and its finish are one and work in a homogeneous way and not separately as happens far too often. A true marriage, consumed with relish. It is probably not a rum for everyone, adventurer and adventurous at heart. Note: 87
To help you (and me) find your way around, regarding the notes:
90 and + : exceptional and unique rum, it is the best of the best
between 85 and 89 : highly recommended rum, with that little something that makes the difference
between 80 and 84 : recommendable rum
75-79 POINTS : above average
70-74 POINTS : in the low average
less than 70 : not very good
Review courtesy of DuRhum.com.
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