Dealing with the past

The Séverin distillery is quite recent, having been founded in 1928 by the Marsolle family; and even if the estate still bears the name of a former 19th century owner, a certain Monsieur Séverin, it has been managed by several generations of Marsolle throughout history. This 1984 vintage, like many old vintages, was produced in very different conditions from today, but we will come back to that later.

Price : around 200€ currently, 70cl and 45° on the meter. It is always possible to come across a bottle if you look hard enough.

Age : at least 6 years. Only the vintage is known exactly, but old rum was commonly aged for at least 6 years (and up to 8 years) according to some sources (Edward Hamilton in his book Rums of the Eastern Caribbean , 1995). There are also vintages from Séverin from 1976, 1982, 1986, 1989, 1996, 1998 (and probably others).

It is often said that rum was better before, of course, but without necessarily looking at the reasons for such an assertion (which may also seem unfounded to today's sellers...): of course the production tools were not as advanced as today and the quantities produced were much smaller. And it is surely not absurd to affirm that the land was surely better respected (less soiled) and the notion of terroir all the more justified (and deserved). To be politically correct we could say that rum was not necessarily better before, but simply different... In the case of Domaine de Séverin - as for other distilleries - we can justify the change in quality by its distillation tool:

Indeed, if today rum is distilled via a small Creole column mainly made of stainless steel (with a few copper concentration trays), the distillery used at the time a column entirely made of copper, replaced because of the high cost of repairs. And well before that, a traditional still (which will be transformed into a column in 1966). It is also the old paddle wheel that then powered the grinding mills, thanks to the water captured from the large river in Goyaves (today replaced by a hydraulic motor). So many big - and smaller - things that in addition to adding charm to the tasting, will justify the hunt for old vintages; Because yes, even if different, the rum was still much better, developed in a qualitative rather than quantitative approach... and therefore obsolete. Back to a past not so old.

This rum has a super classy look, light amber, slightly gray or greenish, and clear. It is surely one of the most beautiful colors, one of the most beautiful dresses that I have ever admired. I have never felt the nobility of a rum as much as with this Séverin. It looks like a kind of melted precious metal, which slides into the glass with class and pride.

A thin crown forms, a long thin thread soon punctuated with droplets which gains in volume before finally detaching itself from its support, as if inert, to fall towards the void.

The nose is greedy and swollen, ready to burst, vegetal reminiscent of cane still full of sugar, and banana… a fruit at first young and immature (green) then in its juice (cooked), which even becomes faded, roughly pressed with a fork to tread the mouth of an infant still virgin of any solid element, discovering life and its flavors. A regressive nose that humbles and plunges you into another time, another era. A sublime simplicity, a pure and unmade-up beauty like we would like to come across more often, but which we know has disappeared forever.

Then come the prune, the candied black cherry, in a honeyed and vanilla atmosphere, then almond paste and with aeration a classy caramel, without excess and sweet, for a truly charming nose. The more time passes, the more we warm the glass, and the more the rum becomes mineral, heavy and resinous, not without recalling certain similarities with the Bellevue rums already tasted here.

The attack is soft and frank , on the fruity (exotic), citrus fruits, caramel then quickly on the spices and the woody to become slightly peppery and powerful; but always with this little vanilla something which makes the mouth certainly powerful but light and very pleasant. The exotic fruits return between two spices and bring a beautiful delicacy to the mouth, slightly sweet, and tangy (citrus zest).

The finish is on the same note, dry and long, but still very round and harmonious ; the passage of the rum warms you with just the right amount of spices while calling for the next glass, leaving you in your mouth with a taste of exotic fruits, sweet and vanilla as desired, and a slight bitterness (green tea). The empty glass confirms a particularly fragrant and aromatic rum, and offers us vanilla and freshly grated nutmeg.

Some of Séverin's more recent rums had not really excited me, but this one is rather complex and harmonious, rich and very pleasant from start to finish. And complete, judging by its aromas that are sometimes vegetal, mineral and fruity; a very nice discovery that makes you suddenly want to discover the brand's other vintage rums, to prolong the adventure and why not detect a certain evolution. Rating: 87

To help you (and me) find your way around, regarding the notes:

90 and + : exceptional and unique rum, it is the best of the best
between 85 and 89 : highly recommended rum, with that little something that makes the difference
between 80 and 84 : recommendable rum
75-79 POINTS : above average
70-74 POINTS : in the low average
less than 70 : not very good

Review courtesy of DuRhum.com.

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