Organized wedding

The new products from Velier have barely been released and already 2 of the 4 bottlings are attracting the general attention of enthusiasts: two blends made before aging: a Diamond/Port Mourant and this Enmore/Port Mourant.

Luca Gargano already talked about it in our interview , even though he didn't know -yet- that he was going to release them. "Experimental" rums, since it is indeed experiments that we are talking about: DDL wanted one day to age two rums from two different stills (here two wooden stills among the oldest in the world), and therefore also with different profiles, in the same barrel... A unique approach because the blends are usually made after the rums have aged.

Price : 145€, 70cl and 62.2° on the meter. Limited edition of 848 bottles (3 barrels).

Age : Distilled in 1998 and bottled in July 2014, rums from the Enmore (EHP) and Port Mourant (PM) stills were blended before aging for 16 years in a tropical climate. 

It is not in fact a blend (assembly) strictly speaking since the 'mixing' was done here before aging, where the usual assemblies take place after aging: and the difference is enormous because the rums thus married will work, evolve together in the barrel, will link essences and knowledge for many years, swearing an imposed loyalty to each other, in a closed environment and with the obligation to consume each other mutually, to mix, and to give birth to unique essences.

Where others make alliances in small steps, form couples in laboratories based on meticulous dosages, DDL at that time bet on the long term and celebrated several marriages by mixing the most varied personalities. It is time that has done things here and not the master blender, we are here at the height of a natural and poetic phase, authentic and therefore surely with defects, because time and its whims never do anything by chance. And of course our two lovebirds will have celebrated their story in a tropical climate, far from the continental grayness…

The color of the rum is a fairly deep amber with beautiful copper highlights, and how beautiful is this crown that is forming and that seems to draw lace, or perhaps it is a garter? vestige of a marriage already consummated for 16 years now… The milestone has been passed but seeing these tears flow we guess a necessarily tormented story, a story with many setbacks, and a confession to come.

Like all Velier rums, don't plunge your nose in too quickly or deeply, our pair is rather feverish with its 62.2°, and a slight aeration time will quickly give way to an aromatic concentrate that is only found in this type of bottling - and therefore too rarely: Intensity, concentration, a selection of perfectly ripe citrus fruits, marmalade for a buttery and resolutely gourmet nose . Veils of vanilla appear during the tasting and make the nose 'lighter' and distance it from the heavy and opaque aromas found in some Demeraras. This is the successful bet of this blend: it is lively and open, enough to satisfy both the lover of excessively heavy Demerara rum, but also those who like the fruitier and let's say 'lighter' side. A successful mix of genres at this level, with a very nice balance between strength and restraint .

Roasted apricots and that characteristic liquorice that seems to manage the dance arrive, it is what builds the nose, it is in the background and never leaves the moment. A hint of menthol freshness makes the nose even more interesting, and already the 62.2° are forgotten… The alcohol is very well integrated, and no burning is to be reported.

Aeration closes the rum in more spicy notes (clove, anise, ginger and always this vanilla) and empyreumatic (roasted notes) and even mineral with a burnt rubber side. The addition of a few drops of water softens the nose considerably, reinforcing the place of licorice and these roasted notes (coffee).

We really have the impression that the two rums/stills complement each other perfectly: on one side fruitiness, veils of vanilla and on the other power and heavier aromas; we therefore obtain the best of each but without either imposing its character on the other. So this would be the secret of a successful marriage?

The attack is smooth and intense, concentrated just as the nose suggested. We are still in a buttery, pastry register: the marmalade is there, the liquorice and the spices too (cinnamon and ginger) but without ever any excess; they are present but not too powerful. Smoothness and more smoothness, with this nice little touch of freshness (mint/eucalyptus) and these 62° which go down superbly well. With a little water we are still on the register of the creamy mouth, perhaps even easier and without loss of flavors.

A superb finale closes the tasting , with a very nice length and once again on the liquorice (zan) and spices - always so sweet - which deliver their aromas little by little, maintaining a constant heat in the mouth and with once again this pastry touch, gourmet. The empty glass is in the same vein and will still be very much alive the next day, carelessly forgotten on the corner of a table, and even very visible judging by the amber veil which seems to be etched on the bottom of the glass.

Marriage is a play with two characters, each of whom studies only one role: that of the other. On this point, Enmore and Port Mourant are complementary, giving a very successful result to this blend: a very nice balance between charm and power, fruity and toasted notes. Are we then facing the perfect couple? The Diamond/Port Mourant blend is less successful in this bet, but the highly anticipated Diamond/Versailles risks seriously setting the record straight... While waiting for this moment, there is already something to really enjoy with the Uitvlugt 1997 (17 years old) and the Diamond 1999 (15 years old), both released at the same time as the two blends and which we will surely talk about again here. Rating: 86

To help you (and me) find your way around, regarding the notes:

90 and + : exceptional and unique rum, it is the best of the best
between 85 and 89 : highly recommended rum, with that little something that makes the difference
between 80 and 84 : recommendable rum
75-79 POINTS : above average
70-74 POINTS : in the low average
less than 70 : not very good

Review courtesy of DuRhum.com.

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