Chantal Comte is back, let it be said. After the release of two whites including a Caribaea charity cuvée and a La Tour de l'Or (a first in the white range), then most recently a new Fighting Spirit (a Gold in a screen-printed bottle from the Simon distillery), the lady is back with two selections of old rums:

Two cask strengths under the label of "La Tour de l'Or", from the La Mauny distillery that we will taste here. The article will be updated in the coming weeks with a cross-comparison of the La Mauny 2005 vintage selected and released in partnership with the Confrérie du Rhum.

It is always very interesting to see that some producers open their cellars to independent selections; it is often a rare opportunity to taste unique products, at a natural level, and which still does not seem to be a priority on the part of distilleries, despite the constant demand from consumers (well, more from seasoned amateurs and therefore a minority overall, yes).

Tour de l’Or La Mauny 2006 / 57,7°

This 2006 vintage aged for 10 years in French oak barrels under the supervision of the brand's Cellar Master, Daniel Baudin. It was bottled at its natural strength in April 2017 in an edition of 2,000 bottles.

This maturation stage was carried out for 20% in new French barrels and for 80% in barrels that had previously contained Cognac. At the end of this final process, 12 months of rest in stainless steel vats complete the "sleep" of this AOC Martinique agricultural wine .

And in even more detail, were used:

20% New French barrels (Tronçais Forest)
80% Barrels that contained Cognac.
Aged in barrels: 04/08/2006
Bottled: April 2017
[measured at 57.2°, 0 sugar]

 
The color is a deep amber tending towards a glowing and shiny copper. Oily, it reveals a myriad of hot tears.
On the nose, it is as deep as the color, opulent and serious, to damn the most trained noses: carnal with a set of aromas melted to the extreme and all in complexity, releasing here warm grilled spices, mixing there exotic candied fruits (orange) with a woodiness carried by time and turned to ash, pearling elegance; silk on the nose and an unheard-of accuracy… the alcohol is excessively well integrated, melted too, enveloping itself in mystical scents and a subtle veil of tobacco. A candy for the senses and a goldsmith's work. Rest reinforces the presence of a precious and frank woodiness.

The attack is resinous and at the height of the nose, sumptuously opulent but always very well executed, and without too pronounced alcohol; tonight, the spices dance in the palate, against the backdrop of a woody orchestra. A waltz perhaps, slender and millimeter, steps executed with precision and elegance lifting the fruity faces of a conquered and intoxicated crowd. The moment is precious and ready for contemplation, in a surge so rich that even the final bouquet seems to resonate far beyond the walls; we no longer think of aroma but listen to the notes, anticipating the next one and retaining the previous ones, recording its acoustics late until bedtime, in a prolonged dialogue with Morpheus.

La Mauny has gold in its cellars and Chantal Comte the tower to elevate them to the rank of jewels. This rum is an ode to aging and old agricultural products, deep and seductive with a presence in the mouth that is just grandiose (and orgasmic in the mouth). Note: 93

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Tour de l’Or La Mauny 2001 / 64,8°

This 14-year-old 2001 vintage was aged in American oak barrels that had previously contained Bourbon. And as with the previous rum, this one also spent 18 months in stainless steel vats. It is offered at its natural strength of 64.8° and in 1,715 bottles.

– Aged in barrels: 11/19/2001
– Bottling: April 2017
[measured at 64.3° and therefore also 0 sugar]

The color is just as deep as the 2006 vintage, coppery and very bright. A jewel, we tell you. And a little more fat on the walls.
On the nose, we are still on the gourmet opulence, the swollen and deep charm of time and maturity. The wood is still as controlled and melted, perhaps a little more solemn, more tense, but here again accompanied by a confit of all beauty; a little more vanilla and plump exotic flavors (mango, papaya, citrus fruits) and caramelized, with skillfully measured spices.

This 2001 is probably even more complex than the 2006; exotic with a dark side marked by time (wet oak, bitter tannins, pepper), the rum appears at once torrid, charming and perfumed, with spicy and candied flights, with a brown of freshness and a classy tobacco smoke that caresses a dried orange peel. It is approaching 65° and yet you would not believe it for a single second. A perfume on the nose.

On the palate, it is warm and resinous, a concentrate of pleasure and flavors (a caress) that encompasses the palate, and where the alcohol serves the elements wonderfully in a mind-blowing and exhilarating mastery. It copulates, it is rich (alcohol obliges), with the festive impression of a firework where no rocket exceeds or eclipses the other; the colors are in tune and all burst with the same intensity: spices, candied fruit and XXL exoticism, oak. An explosion of flavor between warm notes (spices), fleshy (fruit), woody and fresh (citrus). The finish (fireworks obliges) is long and makes time and this oak speak again which has more than one story in its foliage, against a background of bitterness and biting memories.

Another La Mauny brut de fût and another Grand rhum; and another superb selection from Chantal Comte. At this point, a comparison with the 2006 is inevitable, and my personal preference would undoubtedly go to the 2006, for its mouth and its astonishing balance, even if this 2001 is not without merit, quite the contrary. Score: 91

2 superb selections that once again show the full potential of aged agricultural rum when offered at natural strength (and when aged at high strength too, without excessive dilution). We were already used to it with Neisson, more recently with Bally (and its 98 without topping up), and here we have new proof with La Mauny. Succulent...who's next?

To help you (and me) find your way around, regarding the notes:

90 and + : exceptional and unique rum, it is the best of the best
between 85 and 89 : highly recommended rum, with that little something that makes the difference
between 80 and 84 : recommendable rum
75-79 POINTS : above average
70-74 POINTS : in the low average
less than 70 : not very good

Review courtesy of DuRhum.com.

From the folks behind DuRhum, Velier, and more, comes a premium online marketplace for rum enthusiasts by rum enthusiasts! Do check out www.rowspirits.fr for more great content and iconic rums!