A Royal Rum

Berry Brothers & Rudd is the oldest wine and spirits merchant in the United Kingdom, having been operating since 1698, no less… In recent decades, the Berry Own Selection series has been launched, offering many rums from different origins, including some very old and rare bottles, such as this Demerara rum from 1975. No coloring or processing here, authentic (just a standardized alcohol content of 46°) aged in cool English warehouses.

Price : €150 for 70cl of history, all at a rate of 46°; the price is quite similar to other rums of the same age available from other bottlers (Cadenhead Green Label 1975, Bristol Classic Port Mourant 1980).

Age : this rum is an exceptional 32 years old. First distilled in Guyana in 1975 using the famous Port Mourant still (a double wooden pot still) it will be bottled in 2007 in the Berry Bros warehouses in England at a rate of 46%. The aging time in England (and therefore in a continental climate) is not known exactly.

A bottle with a classic look for an exceptional rum. Knowing that Berry Bros is the official supplier to the English royal family, we understand this classicism better, it is sober and effective, without artifice and we like it! We imagine then that we pay mainly for the liquid and not for overdone packaging. Let's take a moment to look at the still used, since it alone represents the identity of the rum, its aromatic brand par excellence. It is found indicated on too few bottles (mostly on those offered by these independent bottlers, including Berry Bros, Velier, Samaroli, Cadenhead, etc.) it is however a key element that also allows us to compare two rums with each other. The one used here is the Port Mourant still , a double wooden still unique in the world, which has the particularity of producing a heavy rum, which is used in particular to make Navy Rum and other Dark Rum. (It is also found in El Dorado rums). A very recognizable taste and smell. But let's get down to business...

The rum has an imposing, very dark amber color, almost tending towards red . The greenish disk on the surface reminds us - if need be - of the long years spent in the barrel. After a slight swirl of the glass, the color reveals enormous legs all around the glass that seem to weave a network of oversized veins, as if the rum wanted to immediately impose itself and show the simple taster that I am that it is very much alive; but this demonstration of strength gradually fades to make way for a ballet of drop by drop that lovingly falls to the bottom, marking a well-deserved truce, and sign of the start of the festivities...

This rum gives off a smell that is both warm and elegant, but also intense , which opens up fully after a few minutes of rest. We immediately recognize the trademark of the Port Morant still: a smell of rubbery wax, varnish or even fresh paint where spices, molasses and liquorice (anise) are mixed, with this rather specific woody smell, marked and ancient, a smell reminiscent of these old pieces of furniture trapped in the houses of our ancestors. We feel good above this glass, the more we wait and the more it tells us about its past, the more it reveals its history and its torments, and the least we can say is that it is very demonstrative!

It even reveals an animal aroma, so characteristic of certain old red wines: musk, raw meat, leather... One can only remain humble in the face of so much wisdom, and one can only feel confident, as if comforted.

So it is already conquered and with a certain confidence that the rum arrives in the mouth, just as warm as the nose, with a little nervous side all the same, a hint of spiciness but just sweet enough not to take us out of our reverie. Oak in abundance (tannins), dried fruits (especially grapes), a certain bitterness brought by orange, and an impressive list of spices (including cinnamon and nutmeg, and a salty/peppery side) and a hint of liquorice. Everything is wonderfully mixed, but without falling into the easy way out, warm and intense at the same time.

The finish is very long and spicy, with a woody taste that is still present and strong but very well balanced. The grape makes a saving reappearance before leaving a soothing taste in the mouth, punctuated by a touch of slightly burnt brown sugar. The conversation ends on these beautiful notes and already calls for the next glass, the only solution to continue the (d)ebates already started.

Very nice bottle that Berry Bros offers us here! The aromas are warm and intense and undoubtedly remind us of an exemplary maturity. Rums of this age exist identically from other bottlers, let us cite as an example that of Bristol Classic (Port Mourant 1980) or the Cadenhead Green Label 1975, but if we had to have only one, if we had to treat ourselves to a bottle (because it is not cheap), then Berry Bros would be the ultimate choice. And for this luxury you can even pursue the dream for a long time with your nose above the empty glass, guaranteed success. Note: 85

To help you (and me) find your way around, regarding the notes:

90 and + : exceptional and unique rum, it is the best of the best
between 85 and 89 : highly recommended rum, with that little something that makes the difference
between 80 and 84 : recommendable rum
75-79 POINTS : above average
70-74 POINTS : in the low average
less than 70 : not very good

Review courtesy of DuRhum.com.

From the folks behind DuRhum, Velier, and more, comes a premium online marketplace for rum enthusiasts by rum enthusiasts! Do check out www.rowspirits.fr for more great content and iconic rums!